8footdieselpusher

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About 8footdieselpusher

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  1. Bothfeetin, it sounds like we may indeed have the same issue with our Smart cars. Essentially, it obviously boils down to an electrical or mechanical issue and both options still appear to be in play to me. With the luxury of "extra" parts, as you enjoy, I think I would start by swapping out the Gear Position Sensor. Easy job. Now check for resolution. If no joy, carry-on. You didn't mention if you checked to see if your actuator rod has worn through the clutch fork pocket. I would certainly pull the actuator out and look / prod in this location to confirm status of the clutch fork pocket. If, as I suspect, you have a hole worn through, I would suggest contacting Smart142 to buy a special actuator sleave he has cunningly had manufactured. Please keep me posted on your progress.
  2. For those who may have similar problems, those who have helped, and those who are just curious, I've not touched this Smart car in about 2 months. I'm suspicious that I'm going to have to pull the tranny and replace the shifter fork / throw-out bearing. As we all know, these parts aren't that expensive but the labour / toil is kinda ugly. With my extensive to do list, I may push this car into the back yard and look at it again in Spring (unless some handy Ontarian wants to buy a low mileage 2006 Smart car, that "just" needs a shifter fork...).
  3. Sorry for the tardy reply. I'm exasperated with the car and have just ignored it for the past week. Regarding "neutral", in truth I'm not sure. Not sure how I can be sure what position the transmission is truly (beyond what the dash indicator suggests). Of note, the clutch actuator rod wore through the shifter fork and, I'm guessing, this could confuse the car computer as it tries to keep track of the selected gear.
  4. Cadillacman, Oddly glad to know others have experienced the weird clutch behaviour I'm enduring. Clearly, almost any electrical anomaly anywhere within the 17 wires, multiple sensors and connections, which make this thing function, can result in 'issues'. Upon reassembly, the acorn nut on the end of the actuator shaft is snug in the fork cup. There is very little play. Curiously, when I re-assembled, I had to push the actuator to basically the end of the slots to get it tight enough. However, on balance, this is virtually where it was before my modification. If I had a perfect idea of the shape of the fork cup, I could make a better judgement on this reality. I did indeed disconnect the battery and hope some "reset" would occur. I even left it disconnected overnight to no avail. I'm now wondering about the RPM module on the transmission. As I see it, the transmission works perfectly when the engine is not running but won't shift when running. By its name, this RPM module could be the one thing that senses the difference between a running and not running engine; however, I don't actually know the utility of the RPM module, and I could be way off. Thoughts.
  5. Wild! - I tried placing the clutch actuator in the same place and I now have it moved ahead very slightly (basically just enough to take up all slack). Nigel - Yes, I'm an RVer. In addition to my fleet of Smarts, I own a 38' 1983 Newell. The concept of carrying one of my Smart cars on some form of a "motorcycle" bumper-mounted carrier is intriguing. I'd appreciate hearing more of your setup and success (do we need to start a different post for this?). I suspect some people out there, besides me, would be interested in how you carry your Smart car around. Pictures would be most appreciated. Name of carrier? ... Cadillacman - I did exactly as you suggested and discovered the following: a. yes, the actuator rod extended (I could hear it and I carefully put my finger on the rod as my wife turned the key to verify) b. with the car in "N", I verified I can roll it back and forth no problem. Could hear no weird noise while doing so. c. as requested, I then tried selecting R, N, 1 & 2. All selected easily and I could hear things making the "right kind of noises" underneath d. gear indications inside appear to follow the selection perfectly So, I then started the car in hopeful anticipation that it would behave as well now (for whatever reason) as when the engine wasn't running. However, the clicking noise is unchanged and this time I let off the brake (after trying to engage a gear) and confirmed that the car rocks slightly in quasi-unison with the clicking sound. I also noticed that, while the engine was running and I tried to engage gears, the shift indicator never changed from "N" (despite my attempts to engage 1 and R). I'm a bit irritated with grey Smarty right now. Can't figure out what gives. It seems to me like the clutch/pressure plates only very barely start to separate when the engine is running, although I've verified full clutch rod movement when underneath. Other thoughts/suggestions?
  6. Recently, my grey Smart car (I presently own four Smarts - long story) threw me a hard curve ball: it drove to work just fine but would not go into gear 8 hours later. I had it towed home and have so far done the following, to no avail: - removed and lubricated the clutch actuator - (as per Tolsen's online advise to others) removed the wiring harness and did both a continuity test and a load test on each of the 17 wires - bought Electrical Connection cleaner (Canadian Tire) and exhaustively cleaned every connection, including the harness/ECU interface - removed and checked the Gear Position Module (it was truly spotless inside, but thoroughly cleaned the engine block region before re-assembly anyways - reset the P0702 error code (no other codes thrown) Of importance, when I removed the clutch actuator, I put a thin screwdriver into the fork cup, inside the clutch housing, and noticed it was able to pass through (suggesting the dreaded actuator-rod-wear-through-fork issue). Unwilling to drop the transmission (to change the fork), I firstly rammed and twisted a large crayon in the fork cup to get a good idea of the full fork cup dimensions. I then "simply" tapped the end of the actuator rod with a 7/16" NC die and threaded on a stainless steel acorn nut (from Fastenal), which was just a bit narrower than my crayon mold. After re-installing the clutch actuator, with its new acorn nut extension, I watched from underneath as my wife (carefully with foot on brake) shifted through some gears. The actuator rod modification seems to work very well. But, alas, I've made no real progress. When I start the car and then select first gear, the car makes the same rhythmic clicking sound (and I think I sense a a very very slight forward rocking) that it did that fateful first day at work. When I select reverse, the clicking is louder and about twice as quick. I would be humbly grateful for any suggestions.
  7. Well, like the two posts before me, my experience with the recall has been mixed. My door handles were quite bad before I went to the dealer (e.g. routinely not working; occasionally both doors at the same time). After the install, the very next day, the passenger door failed to shut. The actual exterior door handle remained extended indicating that the cable was at least as much to blame as the door latch mechanism. Thankfully, the warmer weather has prevented a repeat of this problem. Bottom line, I still carry my trusty bungie cord in the door pocket, waiting for my door to fail again. IMHO, the new door latches only represent half a fix.