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About stickman007

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    Edmonton, AB

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  1. Remove the 3 hex bolts to separate the electrical solenoid part of the EGR valve. The plunger should move freely and spring loaded. If its stuck inside the solenoid, or does not pop out smoothly, it maybe the issue. Good luck!
  2. Sweet! Another Edmontonian! Welcome to the club!
  3. Let me know...I'm always up for a smart car meet!
  4. I've been mulling over this for awhile, just wanted to see if we can get some AB Smart owners out for a get together event sometime in Aug or Sept. The idea is to go for a weekend road trip with a bunch of smarties...options? - Edmonton => Jasper (stay for one or two nights) - Edmonton => Rocky Mountain House (stay for one nite) => Abraham Lake => Saskatchewan Crossing => Jasper (one nite) - Edmonton => Waterton National Park (stay for one or two nights) Any interests or ideas?
  5. Not to question your experiences, but could you explain the theory? I'm a little unclear on how fitting the blanking plate would lead to less lag than the 180 cartridge mod.
  6. Got a chance to see Inno's car today. His P1403 EGR code was caused by a seized pin on the solenoid portion of the EGR valve. The pin was stuck inside the solenoid...when I tap on the solenoid body, the pin would pop out slightly, but then as soon as I push on it, it stuck back in. In a normal solenoid, the pin should slide freely, and spring loaded. We ended up swapping the solenoid on a working spare valve I had. The longer I work on these cars, the more I'm leaning against using an emulator if possible. I'll be working hard on developing a map that tunes the EGR out instead. @booneylander I have 2 spare ones as I didn't need to use my emulator for inno or willys. pm me if you still need one.
  7. Got a chance to meet up with Willy (Jonathan) today! Great guy, very passionate with Smart cars among other things...hahaha Played around with my MBSTAR on his car, made a EGR bypass pipe, and nerd it up talking about EGR and electronics! Next stop, TO for the weekend!
  8. I think I'll will try and assemble one of my earlier prototype circuit...yes, it won't have the 1 touch feature, but I think the annoyance is the door slamming. Will report back when I get a chance to test...success or failure? (how bad can it be? Car burn down? hahahaha
  9. If its a combination of 3 bars and beeping, the 1st thing I would check are the fuses (on your SAM).
  10. I still make them once in awhile...the MB plug was expensive, so I 3D print them. The STL file is available for download at the thingiverse site. If anybody wants the DWG file for editing, please pm me (free of course). The prospect of the ability to map the EGR function out is far better than using an emulator in the long run.
  11. I don't think it needs all those engine internals...just paranoid (worst case scenario planning). Contrary to the perception (because I posted all these things that I want to check/work on), the car is in great shape, as I've said earlier, I have issues with perfection... With the fresh engine oil change, I will need to run it a few hundred kms before I can get a decent oil sample. But thanks for the tips to send the samples to Finning...I think that's where I will get it done.
  12. @smart142 Where do you source your hydraulic lifters, timing chain, oil pump sprocket...etc? Just in case. Would it be "smarter" to find an used engine to recondition, then swap?
  13. Just found out that my new employer (Peterbilt dealership) has a bodyshop'ta start building good relationship with those guys and who knows, they'll teach me how to do body work? or maybe even do it for me? hahaha...
  14. Red Pxl is parked until I can do a fully restoration on her. She is sitting in a friend's indoor garage along with 5 other collector's car (ironically old Mopar muscle cars). Maybe the car gods were not pleased that I removed a Canada1 from BC....The clutch actuator "kicked" again in dry condition a few days ago. No codes, nothing visibly wrong that I can see from the harness. It passed all the function test on STAR. No play on the shaft to the clutch fork. There's a slight knocking sound under hard acceleration, especially when turning left. Smartzuum mentioned that there has been A/C line knocking the firewall issues in the past. In the coming months, the plan now is to drop the engine for: 1) cleaning, 2) install to tolsen's restricter mod - I think faster warm up time helps with reducing engine wear, 3) check/repair if necessary all the harnesses, 4) check all the rockers, tappets, oil pump sprocket/chain, 5) remove the power steering rack to inspect and most likely rebuilt, 6) install my spare Webasto heater, 7) remove the rear quarter panels to redo the seals, and 8) take all the panels off for reconditioning and 3M coating. Red Pxl is going to be a show car by the time I'm finished with it. Its sad, but Red Pxl will not be going with me to Ontario this year
  15. Please post pictures...I’m curious to the answer to your question as well!