stickman007

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About stickman007

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    Edmonton, AB
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  1. The PROS and CONS are pretty much discussed to death here on the forum... The jus of it is: PROS - more access room to the engine, eliminate potential rubbing of hoses CONS - requires emulator or tuned out You don't need to do any kind of delete to prevent soot. Cleaning your EGR valve, or rotating the cartridge 180, or block plate will do just fine.
  2. @Tolsen - these pins will work https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-10-12020116-Delphi-Metri-Pack-Male-280-Series-Terminal-Crimp-30A-NOS-/190926881269. These were little bigger than the original design, but all I had to do was to heat up the pins a little bit, and it slid right in. If you can't source those pins, just give me the dimensions of the ones that you can get, and I can alter the design of the plug. You've given so much insights and help on this forum that I don't mind doing that for you! Also if you have any design input, please pm me and I can make those changes. Sorry for highjacking the thread!
  3. The one that just plugs straight into the harness...yes I still do that. If you want, I can just email you the STL file and anybody with a 3D printer can make you the plug, and you can solder your own electronics. If there's a place to post the file on CsC, I can just post it here. You can find the files here too. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:588717 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:502182
  4. I still make emulators, pm me for details
  5. Sold the car not long after I got it started. Haven't heard any complains from the now owner. It sat outside for the winter for about 3 months.
  6. I think your slanted engine theory is most possible...10w40 is much thicker than penetrating oil, maybe together it was enough to seal the rings? What doesn't make sense would be why it ran fine afterwards. Didn't bother to remove everything and do proper compression test.
  7. Something to try as it worked for me in the end. Post #67 Good Luck.
  8. Here's my experience with no start. I did end up getting it fired up - post #67. I do have a diesel compression gauge that works on the little smart cars via the glow plugs that you're welcome to borrow if you're ever in the Edmonton area. Smart142's method is quick, and also requires minimal speciality tools. Give it a try 1st. Good Luck!
  9. When I was living in Williams Lake BC, a buddy of mine at Mills Auto Electric says that they can order the parts and rebuild my alternator if I ever need to. Might be a lot cheaper than ordering a new one.
  10. Grey is #4. If the emulator burned out, let me know and I'll send you another one. I thought I sent you the link to this post, but my mistake. There is a slight change on yours. The big 100Ohm resistor is now in the left hand side. Hope this helps.
  11. Do you want me to send you another emulator just to confirm? I should be able to put together a plug and play one for you to save some time on diagnostic? 3k limit usually has to do with the EGR, but sometimes it takes a few ignition cycle to clear the codes. If you have a working EGR body, the 180 rotation of the cartridge is the simplest/reliable in the long run.
  12. I rather not share the cost, but it took me altogether 8hrs. That included fixing the corroded connector, exposing and tracing the wires, swapping parts, coding/teaching adaptations...etc. I also coded extra keys they had, and realigned the cabrio hatch that was not closing properly.
  13. The owners told me they've spent about $3k between the MB dealership and Pug City...I cannot confirm the authenticity of their story, but they did give me a spare ECU and actuator when they dropped off the car.
  14. Crazy busy! The car was finally finished last Saturday. I ended up running the wire along the side of the main harness where it normally runs under the SE drive. The owners were so happy that the car ran because the dealership told them that they needed a new SAM, (this was after they already replaced an actuator, and ECU). The no communication with ESP was confirmed due to mismatched equipment code. As soon as I plugged the original SAM/Dash/ECU, I was able to communicate with it. Found another cause for 3 bars that I haven't seen anywhere. I accidentally shorted the 12v wire (pin5 of the EGR connector) while trying the hide the EGR emulator because I was careless and in a hurry. The car immediately gave me a 3 bar, and started beeping (engine still runs). Traced it back to the 10amp fuse 9 on the SAM. Replaced, the fuse, and the car was fine. So much to learn on these little cars...