stickman007

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About stickman007

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  1. In my experience, there is a harness that runs from the ECU to the glow plug module that causes intermittent MIL. If the light is on, try wiggling that harness at the glow plug module a bit and see if it goes away; should indicate a connector/wiring issue in that region. That same harness will branch off to the front of the air box and there is a junction that's tucked away between the frame and the subframe. Usually, it is held in place by a plastic tab, but more often the tab is broken off due to poor repair. That section can easily get damaged as it moves around near the suspension area. Give that a try.
  2. Thanks for the info with regards to the DRL and fog. BUT....back to the 3 bar issue. I did a bit of brainstorming and it came to me that the no communication with ESP might be a separate issue. Similarly to what I noticed on GRP151's pics of DAS quick menu, due to a different SAM unit installed, the ECU may simply be not coded for the ESP for the given year (2 style for ESP system depending on manufacturing date). Besides, GRP151 was able to clear the 3 bar even without the communication with ESP - so therefore I will continue to focus on the 3 bars for now. I did a bit of back to the basics approach. I had a hunch that no power was getting to the gear motor nor the actuator. Naturally I checked the fuse 30 which was good. I took a test light to confirm that power was there on each post of the fuse. The next, I moved to the N11-4 pin2 to see if power was going through and to my surprise, no power (with ignition 1)! So something is telling the SAM that it was not okay to send power to to the entire gear system (not good news, but finally a direct clue to the problem). As I started testing different possible transmission related wires, I came across N11-2 pin7 wire (blue) that was suppose to be constant live according to evilution's SAM pinout. As soon as I use my test light to check for voltage, not only did the light came on, but I heard a relay clicked. To confirm my suspicion that the ECU was somehow not letting the SAM turn on transmission relay, i checked for the continuity of N11-2 pin7, which is suppose to be directly connected to the ECU pin111 (still not sure which is which on the connector), but I tested every single blue wire and did not get continuity. Could this be my the cause of my problem? A simple broken/shorted wire? I will try to do a bit more research and maybe brave enough to jump the "blue" wire directly and see if problem will be solve.
  3. I swapped gear position sensor and gear motor today....still not able to do a teach-in Same symptoms as before, nothing changed. I removed the gear motor and stuck my finger in there; I was able to move the gear, so the transmission is not seized?) I also was able to use a pry bar and confirm that the clutch is not seized. I guess I will keep tracing wires and start doing a voltage drop test on each wire. Seems to me, no power is getting to my actuator or gear motor at all.
  4. Did you say earlier that you swapped a different SAM into the car? Display, SAM, ECU all have to match up...otherwise car won't start. You can "swap" parts, but you have to initialize and program it, and I've heard the the mileage on the display will go wonky. Where you able to talk to ESP when the gear position sensor was bad? I should try swapping in a working one on mine, but it did pass the bench test.
  5. Did a continuity test on the harness from ECU to actuator/gear position sensor/rpm sensor/gear motor...all good. Tested all the grounding wires to the ECU...also good. Removed the loom to visually inspect the wires too. Bench tested gear position sensor as per evilution's instructions and also meet the specs: pin1&3 = 3.95kOhms, pin1&2 and 3&2 both varies smoothly from 1.1-4.9kOhms Will bench test gear motor and actuator (not likely as I've swapped with a working on) tomorrow. How disappointing to test every single wire to that harness only to find it all working? @GPR151: I hope so? hahahaha, so that if one of us solve this, then its done! What Xentry version and multiplexer are you using? pm me if you need help setting up your STAR.
  6. @Tolsen, Just out of curiosity, are there any non-MB systems that can enable special functions? I would eventually like to go with legit systems.
  7. Yup! Mine is already bypassed (9.2014 Xentry). However, the earlier versions of the hacked TAN calculators are only equipped to code keys. None of the other features will work. If you search hard enough (not sure if its okay on the forum to site a different forum), you will find updated TAN calculators that do work. That being said, Tolsen is right, its so easy to disable/bypass the TAN code request on any version of clone Xentry/DAS. If you type in "bypass TAN Xentry" even in Google, there will be a huge amount of resources and instructions on how to do that.
  8. What system are you using to put the code in?
  9. I'm currently experiencing a 3 bar of death issue, but nothing seems to line up with what people are experiencing. Now I have to eat humble pie and look for ideas from CsC. Though there seems to be an overwhelming amount of info with 3 bars, I'm sure this is related, but no sure how. - no communication with ESP Module via STAR (can't even initialize...it will say that the module is not getting any power or not part of the system) - all fuses are good - ESP lights will turn on and then off after a few seconds on the display - normal - unable to move actuator or gear changes even when forcing it with STAR (seems like no power going to actuator either) - unable to re-teach transmission adaptation - unable to crank starter via STAR - actuator/gear position/rpm/gear motor harness does not seem to have any damages visually (dealership replaced/repaired not too long ago), no corrosion on the connectors I'm in the process of tracing/testing one wire at a time....is there a fusible link somewhere I'm missing? Will be tracing wires for the next little bit starting with the ESP. Will be bench testing gear position sensor, and gear motor probably tomorrow Confirmed that SE Drive is good via STAR Confirmed that transmission is not seized Confirmed that no corrosion on ebox - in fact is was already conformal coated Checked grounding cable is good in the engine, from the battery In m understand: - position gear sensor will cause 3 bars, but transmission will still attempt to change gear - wrong light bulbs or corrosion on lighting harness will cause 3 bars, but car will still start and be able to change gear - tranny rpm sensor, actuator punch through fork and reluctor rings can cause 3 bars, but once again, car will start, and then log 3 bar code
  10. Thank you! I re-solder a new connector in, but no change to my 3 bar situation. I will start another thread about it - I've done a lot of reading, but seems like nobody has experienced this before.
  11. Yeah, I definitely will solder a new connector in. Just wanted to know if that's the cause to my no communication with ESP. The wire is coming off the harness to the e-box. Saw in the other thread that you're having 3 bars issues too? This smart that I've been working on sat for awhile and then this. No start, even using STAR to manually crank - the SAM relay was making clicking noises, so it means that it works, but then no power makes it to the starter. I'm willing to bet there are more connectors corroded on this smart. Good luck!
  12. Lets play name this part! Couldn't find anything online even though there's a part# (i think) 0019837V002 Not sure where these wires go. The connector is pretty corroded...one of the pin actually broke off. Working on a 3 bar issue, not sure if this is related. No communication with the ESP module via STAR. Izzy
  13. Over the past week, I was able to use Evilution's eeprom method to retrieve the Grundig radio code! So excited that it actually worked. Got the wifi connection to work with my new SDConnect C4 multiplexer.