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Everything posted by stickman007

  1. @smartdriver thanks for the info and contact! @tolsen interesting...maybe it was labelled as Brabus, but actually stolen from somebody? FlyingTiger, Smart142 or some European tuner? I have smart142’s map on an old ECU that I should be able to pull out, but kind’a should ask for permission....maybe then I can compare the differences?
  2. @Willys I think your car already has smart142 tune, but better safe to ask him. The "map" is where the ECU stores all the parameters necessary for the engine to operate. Basically all ECU takes all the information from the sensors => consult with the map => output to effectors (injectors, timing, fuel solenoid...etc). Where these parameters are stored can be retrieved and overwritten by certain communication protocols such as the KWP2000+ that I mentioned above. MBSTAR is a different communication tool that runs on a different protocol. So to speak, MBSTAR makes changes to the setting of the "program" whereas KWP2000+ changes the coding of the "program." I did back up my map, so if anybody is interested, pm me and I can send it to you. I'm currently running the Brabus diesel map (at least what I believe it is from my source). @tolsen I know somebody near Edmonton that has a copy of the legit WinOLS (will go beg and pled to use it)...will download your link and see if I can lean anything from it. Thanks again for the driver and now the definitions! @smartdriver You were mentioning when we talked in TO this summer that your EGR is tuned out. Any chances we can take a look at your map?
  3. Took Red Pxl out of storage yesterday and took it for a rip out of town. Was driving it most of today and put on about 200km in just 2 days! Got my new KWP2000+ work finally (thank you tolsen for the driver), so I remapped the car. Plan to drive the Canada1 for the next month or so just to get it out of my system before storing her again for winter.
  4. Pulled Red Pxl out of storage and went for a nice 80km drive in the country side. Man I missed driving my Smart.
  5. Between the EGR valve body and the EGR cooler (has 2 coolant hose connected to it, a silver-ish pipe that connects to the turbo on the other side).
  6. Decided to document the process of a full EGR delete since I had to replace the turbo on my school's smart car. (*Many thanks to smart142 for giving an used turbo and TIK pipe for almost nothing). Still need to sort through all the pictures and identity the tools necessary...this thread will be continually edited and modified. Guess when its finalized and fixed by all the gurus then we can put it in the wiki. *Do this at your own risk! I do not take responsibility for your success, failure, or injury! *I did not discover/invent any of these techniques, all found on this forum by other dedicated members *If there are any mistakes or information to add, please post below and I will edit the process as I continue 1) Remove rear bumper (7 bolts all together...if you can't get past this step, please do not continue) 2) Remove the rear aluminum crash bar (6 bolts, 3 on each side, there's also 2 aluminum plates the is sandwiched between the subframe and the crash car). But in the picture, my setup is different as I have a hitch. 3) Remove muffler (2 bolts under the exhaust strap, 2 nuts on the retaining clamp) 4) Removed "X" frame (2 bolts under the subframe, 2 bolts/nuts connecting to the end of the "U" tube). Though this part may not be necessary for the EGR delete, I removed it anyways since I was swapping the turbo. 5) Remove the TIK pipe (2 clamps, one connected to the air box, the other to the turbo). Disconnect the PCV tube on the top (pops off easily). 6) Remove lower rubber intake pipe (1 screw type spring clamp connected to the output side of the intercooler, the other is a wire clip style connected to the EGR body) 7) Remove the 2 bolts that connects the EGR cooler to the EGR body. Very difficult to use etorx sockets due to its position, I used a 1/4" wrench/socket and it fits perfectly (luckily did not strip). There's a thin metal gasket that fits between the 2 gap. Picture shows the bolt on the lower side. 8) At this point, I opted to lower the engine to give me access to the front side where the thermostat is located. This step is necessary if you plan to remove the EGR cooler system. I started by using a piece of wood board and jack to support the base of the engine. Once the weight of the engine is supported, I removed 2 bolts located on the right side of the engine that holds the engine mount to the subframe. I slowly lower the jack while watching the right side of the engine. In past experiences, the vacuum line (right top of the engine) usually will hit the frame eventually, you can disconnect the vacuum line before hand to lower the engine slightly more. 9) With the engine lowered, I was able to gain access to the coolant hoses. To clarify, the 1st picture below shows the coolant route of the EGR cooler (after it was removed completely). The "U' shaped end of the hose goes into the thermostat, and the other end (where I cut) goes under the car and eventually to the heater core. When cutting the coolant hose, make sure there's enough left to connect to the thermostat. The diameter of the remaining hose is smaller than the opening of the thermostat, some members opted to use an adaptor, but I stretch it to fit, very tight, it will work and haven't seen any failures yet. 10) Connect the remaining hose to the thermostat, tighten with a stainless hose clamp. *Triple check the length of the the coolant hose, if it is too short, then tension will be on the hose and will eventually break, but if its too long, it will pitch and coolant flow will be impeded. My advice is to leave a bit extra when making the 1st cut, then take little bits off until you get the perfect length. 11) Unbolt the other end of the EGR cooler (2 bolts at the flange with a metal gasket in between, 5mm hex). The picture shows the top bolt holding the EGR cooler to the turbo manifold. 12) With the EGR cooler system completely removed, the intercooler fan can now be easily removed (plastic clip on the top, pull the top towards you and then slide the fan assembly up). Sorry, picture did not show top clip. 13) With the fan assembly removed, the EGR body can be accessed from different angles. Remove the top rubber intake hose (2 clamps, one connects to the EGR body, the other to the intake manifold). Remove the bolts holding the EGR body, unplug the EGR harness, remove the EGR body. 14) With the EGR body removed, there is another lower bracket that can be removed (3 bolts). It is not necessary to remove, but it provides easier access to the engine in the future. The engine ground cable is also attached to this bracket. The cable can be relocated to bolt directly to the transmission housing directly (a shorter bolt will be required). 15) Carefully, remove the metal fitting on the lower elbow hose. I used a cutting wheel, and then using a piler to peel the metal off. 16) Reassemble the intake elbow to the EGR bypass pipe (another thread on how to make one) and upper rubber intake hose using clamps. 17) Will need to fabricate a block plate for the turbo manifold, (different members had different ways of doing this). I ended up cutting the EGR cooler flange, reused the metal gasket (cleaning all the surfaces), and also adding a aluminum plate (overkill, but I had it a piece laying around), (using the excess bolts which were slightly longer than the original, I blocked the exhaust gas port from the manifold. 18) Almost done! Before you bolt the engine back in place, go to the front of the car and top up the coolant reservoir. Then remove the coolant temperature sensor via a metal spring clip (on the top side of the thermostat), listen for the "gurgling" sound as the air is being purged from the coolant system. Put the sensor back in as soon as the coolant starts to gush out of the hole! This bleeding process is important every time the coolant system is opened up, (will prevent over heating issues). Tip: thread the spring clip with the end of a long ziptie so not to loose the clip. Trust me, its very easy for it to just pop out of your hand and into the abyss! Go back and make sure the coolant reservoir is at the proper level. 19) Everything else should be reverse when putting back together! Make sure you have an EGR emulator or have the EGR function tuned out of your car otherwise you WILL go into limp mode and engine light. Torque Spec: (I don't have all of the official specs) Engine Mount to Subframe: 58Nm X-frame to Subframe: ?Nm X-frame to the end of "U" tube: 100Nm Exhaust bracket into Transmission: 23Nm Exhaust nuts to manifold: 30Nm
  7. @Sydney you will be in limp mode (can't rev past 3k, and engine is gutless) if you don't have the emulator. As Wilys pointed out, its easy to make and the schematics for the emulator is found here on the CsC wiki section. Good Luck!
  8. Remove the 3 hex bolts to separate the electrical solenoid part of the EGR valve. The plunger should move freely and spring loaded. If its stuck inside the solenoid, or does not pop out smoothly, it maybe the issue. Good luck!
  9. Sweet! Another Edmontonian! Welcome to the club!
  10. Let me know...I'm always up for a smart car meet!
  11. I've been mulling over this for awhile, just wanted to see if we can get some AB Smart owners out for a get together event sometime in Aug or Sept. The idea is to go for a weekend road trip with a bunch of smarties...options? - Edmonton => Jasper (stay for one or two nights) - Edmonton => Rocky Mountain House (stay for one nite) => Abraham Lake => Saskatchewan Crossing => Jasper (one nite) - Edmonton => Waterton National Park (stay for one or two nights) Any interests or ideas?
  12. Not to question your experiences, but could you explain the theory? I'm a little unclear on how fitting the blanking plate would lead to less lag than the 180 cartridge mod.
  13. Got a chance to see Inno's car today. His P1403 EGR code was caused by a seized pin on the solenoid portion of the EGR valve. The pin was stuck inside the solenoid...when I tap on the solenoid body, the pin would pop out slightly, but then as soon as I push on it, it stuck back in. In a normal solenoid, the pin should slide freely, and spring loaded. We ended up swapping the solenoid on a working spare valve I had. The longer I work on these cars, the more I'm leaning against using an emulator if possible. I'll be working hard on developing a map that tunes the EGR out instead. @booneylander I have 2 spare ones as I didn't need to use my emulator for inno or willys. pm me if you still need one.
  14. Got a chance to meet up with Willy (Jonathan) today! Great guy, very passionate with Smart cars among other things...hahaha Played around with my MBSTAR on his car, made a EGR bypass pipe, and nerd it up talking about EGR and electronics! Next stop, TO for the weekend!
  15. I think I'll will try and assemble one of my earlier prototype circuit...yes, it won't have the 1 touch feature, but I think the annoyance is the door slamming. Will report back when I get a chance to test...success or failure? (how bad can it be? Car burn down? hahahaha
  16. If its a combination of 3 bars and beeping, the 1st thing I would check are the fuses (on your SAM).
  17. I still make them once in awhile...the MB plug was expensive, so I 3D print them. The STL file is available for download at the thingiverse site. If anybody wants the DWG file for editing, please pm me (free of course). The prospect of the ability to map the EGR function out is far better than using an emulator in the long run.
  18. I don't think it needs all those engine internals...just paranoid (worst case scenario planning). Contrary to the perception (because I posted all these things that I want to check/work on), the car is in great shape, as I've said earlier, I have issues with perfection... With the fresh engine oil change, I will need to run it a few hundred kms before I can get a decent oil sample. But thanks for the tips to send the samples to Finning...I think that's where I will get it done.
  19. @smart142 Where do you source your hydraulic lifters, timing chain, oil pump sprocket...etc? Just in case. Would it be "smarter" to find an used engine to recondition, then swap?
  20. Just found out that my new employer (Peterbilt dealership) has a bodyshop'ta start building good relationship with those guys and who knows, they'll teach me how to do body work? or maybe even do it for me? hahaha...
  21. Red Pxl is parked until I can do a fully restoration on her. She is sitting in a friend's indoor garage along with 5 other collector's car (ironically old Mopar muscle cars). Maybe the car gods were not pleased that I removed a Canada1 from BC....The clutch actuator "kicked" again in dry condition a few days ago. No codes, nothing visibly wrong that I can see from the harness. It passed all the function test on STAR. No play on the shaft to the clutch fork. There's a slight knocking sound under hard acceleration, especially when turning left. Smartzuum mentioned that there has been A/C line knocking the firewall issues in the past. In the coming months, the plan now is to drop the engine for: 1) cleaning, 2) install to tolsen's restricter mod - I think faster warm up time helps with reducing engine wear, 3) check/repair if necessary all the harnesses, 4) check all the rockers, tappets, oil pump sprocket/chain, 5) remove the power steering rack to inspect and most likely rebuilt, 6) install my spare Webasto heater, 7) remove the rear quarter panels to redo the seals, and 8) take all the panels off for reconditioning and 3M coating. Red Pxl is going to be a show car by the time I'm finished with it. Its sad, but Red Pxl will not be going with me to Ontario this year
  22. Please post pictures...I’m curious to the answer to your question as well!
  23. As far as I'm aware, there is no natural safely switch on the 451. If its anything similar to the 450, the combination of the brake switch, the SE drive (uses hall sensors to determine the position of the shifter), informs the ECU on the conditions in which the engine can be cranked. There's also the gear selection sensor, but I believe that is not used outside of gear calibration.
  24. Smartzuum took care of this car really well...but I think the perfectionist in me is going to get me institutionalized some day. Did an oil change with Quartz Total 9000 with MANN filter this afternoon. I've had good luck running Quartz with my last smart car - out of LiquiMoly, Mobil1 European Formula, and Castrol Edge Syntech that I've tried...Quartz Total was the most quiet. Wiped rubber reconditioner on all the door and hatch seals. While I was looking for that "ticking/clicking" door sound, I removed the driver's door panel. Found the culprit! It was the door switch connector that was hitting the frame - put a zip tie on it around the hole and the noise didn't return during my test drive on the highway. I also adjusted the window stopper as I noticed that the driver side was slightly too high causing the support rubber to crack. Lube the window cable with graphite while the door panel was out. Anyways, more pics just for kicks.
  25. Changed fuel filter and wow, what a differences in power! The car runs like a champ now...if only I can get an oil change I'll be happy. I lend my buddy my Pela pump, and he lost the rubber check valve