stickman007

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Posts posted by stickman007


  1. If you want it to work independent of the headlights, then you’ll need your own wiring. You can still use your factor momentary switch. Will have to pick up a 12v flip/flop bistable latching module or rig one up yourself using a 555 timer.

     

    the wiring for the switch is most likely for backlight pwr/ground and the other 2 wires are essentially for the momentary switch


  2. Nope...probably not going to get it. But I can always write a nice review on his page! My expectations were pretty low for getting a Chinese turbo...the fact that it hasn't blown up or leaked or catch on fire...etc is more than what I bargained for. Fuel economy is definitely better, turbo sound is minimal....can't complain if it can last till winter.


  3. In my experiences, when the engine doesn't start, but no codes...it means that one of the internal conditions to start for the ECU is not met. For example, if the ECU is not seeing a clear crank rpm, then it will not time the injections properly, but may not necessary log a code because its normal to take a few revolutions of the crank to establish that. I would dig into any info you can find on the OM660 sensors and start conditions for the ECU.

     

    If the ECU is dying, I would expect more codes - may not be able to see the EDC module with STAR. You've already confirmed that you have low pressure fuel, maybe try keeping an eye on the rail pressure while cranking? Though if rail pressure is low, it should log a code. Keep an eye on cranking rpm?

     

    Good Luck


  4. Took Red Pxl for a longer drive since changing turbo. Drove 200km today to Wabamun Lake and around the back highway west of Edmonton. Boost reached 16.5psi without any issues....still no leaks! Might be placebo effect, but I’m thinking my fuel economy has improved slightly. Will see how long this turbo will last.

     

    Izzy

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  5. The seller says that he will send me that flange...but we'll see.

     

    Put the turbo on today. Primed the turbo with oil, and after everything is tightened fired it up. Engine ran....turbo spooled up and no issues noted so far. Will need to take it for a rip later tonight to set the waste gate - wonder if its pre-adjusted...guess I'll find out. You can see the ugly polyurethane filled motor mounts. Its been almost 2.5wks since placing an order from Eddy for the motor mounts and haven't heard anything other than one of the is out of stock and shipping from Germany.

     

    turbo.jpg

     

    I did end up checking the play on the old turbo...there was a lot of play on the shaft.

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  6. I doubt anybody in your area would have a STAR machine outside of the dealership unfortunately - wondering if there would be any MB specific codes.

     

    Can you shed some light on what you did to delete the EGR? bypass pipe? There's aways a chance of a paper towel left in the IC or intake manifold when working on the car? (I hate to admit that I've done that in the past before). Are you building any boost?

     

    Any possibility for you to post some of the parameters? say with the engine running?


  7. It ended up being $360 total including shipping. I requested EMS shipping, but they sent it via fedex - so I’m going get dinged for a brokage fee/taxes when it gets here. Here’s the title and link:

     

    C$ 260.66  26% Off | Turbocharger KP31 54319880002 54319700002 Turbine full turbo for Smart cdi 0.8 CDI 30Kw 40Kw OM660DE08LA OM660DE01LA
    https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/cdC9BsHK


  8. 114k on the odometer now. It was weeping before, but last night I noticed a drip, took the bumper off to confirm. I had it all cleaned up when I reassembled everything on Thursday night.

     

    Im temped to try a Chinese cartridge since I don’t mind working on the car and the price is right. @tolsen - any recommendation for a “reliable-ish” vendor? I’ll save up for a genuine kp31 or rebuild over the winter. I just want to drive and enjoy the car for the summer.


  9. The polyurethane adhesive that I used had some flex to it...but was definitely harder than silicon. I filled the mounts completely. I think when I get the car going again, I will reuse the front filled mount and installed the new ones in the rear. There's not enough demand to make it worth file, but I could definitely 3D print an insert mould and make my own removable insert...that way I can try the different stiffness. Either way, I guess this will take the car out of commission for the season. Might as well tear the engine apart and rebuild?

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  10. Well....guess its time for a turbo :( You jinxed it Willys!

     

    While doing a last minute check on Red Pxl before our road trip tomorrow. I noticed a pretty big leak on the RHS of the turbo coming from the big snap ring. It has always weep a bit of oil...but now its a full blown leak. Regrettably, we won't be taking the car on our trip tomorrow, but at least we didn't break down in the middle of nowhere.

     

    Another note from the modified engine mount....it definitely improved the car's gear change and take off from a stop, but not worth the extra vibration. Just ordered new mounts from flyingtiger (Eddy).

     

    So here's the dilemma: Chinese turbo/cartridge or genuine $$$ K31 or used. Input anyone?


  11. Just doing some research here for M20 filters. I went on a WIX filter site and found a few long filters that MIGHT work. I'm really interested in increasing the oil capacity...not sure if it'll have any adverse effect.

     

    PH3593A - 3.03" OD x 3.39" Length, gasket 2.13" OD and 2.42" OD

     

    WIX M20x1.5 that are approx the OD of the FRAM filter that I used above:

     

    51285 - 2.967" OD x 5.811" Length, gasket 2.37" ID and 2.74" OD

    WL7433 - 3.03" OD x 3.35" Length, gasket 2.44" ID and 2.8" OD

    WL7457 - 3.03" OD x 3.74" Length, gasket 2.44" and 2.79" OD

     

    None of the WIX filters with gasket OD that was around 2.42" were over 3" in length