stickman007

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Everything posted by stickman007

  1. I did this years ago Instructions to remove the cover is on evilution if I remembered correctly
  2. Is this what you’re looking for? https://shop.flyingtiger.ca/index.php?p=product&id=2745
  3. I got a H&R cup kit a few years back for around $~650 from Mikasa Performance in Red Deer, AB. They can ship it to you as well.
  4. Ah, the acorn mod! Bil Gladstone and I did the mod on both our cars awhile back... if I remembered correctly, we got an 1/2" acorn nut, drilled the threads out, and kept the nut at the end of the rod with silicon. Some members reported that the nut would wear out quick, but I never had any issues. The original guy that did this mod was able to find a brass acorn nut.
  5. Plus 3C today here in Edmonton of all places! I'm tempted to pull my Canada 1 out from storage...but looks like its going to be messy with all the snow melting. Don't know how you're able to drive yours year round MikeT.
  6. A few years back, Leadwing gave me a broken MDC "no-slam" module that basically opens the window ~1" when you open the door, and then close when you shut the door - therefore preventing the need to slam the door hard. I was never able to reverse engineer what they had and gave up. Lately I'm motivated to try again as I'm about to get another smart car! Rather than trying to figure out what MDC did, I wonder if we can just design our own like the EGR emulator circuit as a community. I'm not trained in electrical engineering by any means...my degree is in Biology, but here's what I've come up with to start. Anybody wants to chime in?
  7. Still no sign of my Aliexpress order...they haven't even shipped anything yet. But, I did finish drawing my schematic and lined it up with my python code so here they are for those who want to try and put something together. import RPi.GPIO as GPIO import time downIn = 11 upIn = 15 downOut = 12 upOut = 16 doorIn = 13 def setup(): GPIO.setmode(GPIO.BOARD) GPIO.setup(downIn, GPIO.IN, pull_up_down=GPIO.PUD_UP) GPIO.setup(upIn, GPIO.IN, pull_up_down=GPIO.PUD_UP) GPIO.setup(downOut, GPIO.OUT) GPIO.setup(upOut, GPIO.OUT) GPIO.setup(doorIn, GPIO.IN, pull_up_down=GPIO.PUD_UP) def one_touch(): while True: if GPIO.input(downIn)==GPIO.HIGH: print('Window going down') start = time.time() time.sleep(0.2) while GPIO.input(downIn)==GPIO.HIGH: time.sleep(0.1) length = time.time() - start if length > 1: print('One-touch activated') GPIO.output(downOut, GPIO.HIGH) time.sleep(4) GPIO.output(downOut, GPIO.LOW) if GPIO.input(upIn)==GPIO.HIGH: print('Window going up') ustart = time.time() time.sleep(0.2) while GPIO.input(upIn)==GPIO.HIGH: time.sleep(0.1) ulength = time.time() - ustart if ulength >1: print('One-touch activated') GPIO.output(upOut, GPIO.HIGH) time.sleep(4) GPIO.output(upOut, GPIO.LOW) time.sleep(0.5) def no_slam(): while True: if GPIO.input(doorIn)==GPIO.LOW: print('Door is opened') GPIO.output(downOut, GPIO.HIGH) time.sleep(1) GPIO.output(downOut, GPIO.LOW) GPIO.wait_for_edge(doorIn, GPIO.RISING) print('Door is closed') GPIO.out(upOut, GPIO.HIGH) time.sleep(1.5) GPIO.output(upOut, GPIO.LOW) time.sleep(1) def destroy(): GPIO.out(downOut, GPIO.LOW) GPIO.out(upOut, GPIO.LOW) GPIO.cleanup() if __name__ == '__main__' : setup() try: one_touch() no_slam() except KeyboardInterrupt: destroy() For those who don't want to type the whole thing, here's the python file. NoSlam-OneTouch Program.py
  8. Decided to hook up the module to Red Pxl today...nothing caught on fire...hahahaha! But the board didn't work. The input signals weren't reading correctly and later was traced to a bad batch of relays. All 4 of my 5v relays were duds when bench testing them. I used relays to step down my voltage from 12v to 3.3v for sensing input. Didn't have any optoisolators or the proper resistors to make a voltage divider. Just made an order on Aliexpress...guess will update on progress in about a month when the stuff shows up?
  9. Hardware prototype done! Software loaded...will plug it in to test. With the current setup, the module will be in the car near the SAM, and a 4-wire harness will be plugged into the window switch via an adaptor pigtail. The door grounding signal will be pulled from the SAM unit. No soldering or wire cutting.
  10. To add to tolsen’s comment, a standalone ecu setup would require a custom tune on top of that.
  11. This is the proposed wiring schematic. The GPIO pins will not match the above programs (yet), but they will once I can merge the 2 programs together. In addition, I'm going to try and 3D print some connectors in attempt to make a pigtail so everything will be plug and play.
  12. Next leg of the journey is on its way! Coding for the one touch feature is working! Once again, for those who are interested: import RPi.GPIO as GPIO import time downIn = 11 downOut = 12 def setup(): GPIO.setmode(GPIO.BOARD) GPIO.setup(downIn, GPIO.IN, pull_up_down=GPIO.PUD_UP) GPIO.setup(downOut, GPIO.OUT) def one_touch(): while True: if GPIO.input(downIn)==GPIO.HIGH: print('down button pressed') start = time.time() time.sleep(0.2) while GPIO.input(downIn)==GPIO.HIGH: time.sleep(0.1) length = time.time() = start if length > 1: print('one touch activated') GPIO.output(downOut, GPIO.HIGH) time.sleep(4) GPIO.output(downOut, GPIO.LOW) def destroy(): GPIO.output(downOut, GPIO.LOW) GPIO.cleanup() def __name__ == '__main__' : setup() try: one_touch() except KeyboardInterrupt: destroy()
  13. There are still issues that need to be addressed if a raspberry pi is to be used for the window controller. The current boot up time for the device is approx 30sec. Through modification in the OS, the system can theoretically be lowered to around 4sec - which is not bad considering that you don't disconnect the battery every time to you leave the car. The power draw of an idled raspberry pi zero is approx 100mA which is not a huge load on the system, but potentially a problem if you let the car sit for a week or 2. The raspberry pi can also be setup to boot and execute this code automatically every time it is turned on, but long term stability is unknown at this point. Here's a pic of the raspberry pi GPIO pinout. Basically they can be programmed for inputs and outputs. Currently, I've only used 3 of the general GPIO channels. For one-touch features, I would need to use 4 more (up/down on both sides). Also future expansion to do button start would take up another 3 (brake, ignition, and crank).
  14. Success! Turns out that I messed up on the breadboard... The following code allows the raspberry pi to do the following actions: If the door trigger sees a ground (door opened), it will send power to the relay that controls the window motor to go down for 1sec and wait for the ground signal to go away (door closed) where it will send power to the relay that controls the window motor to go up for 1.5sec. The program checks the door trigger once every 1sec. I was able to get the proof of concept working with LEDs instead of relays/motors, and a button instead of the door trigger. I will post schematics when I get a chance to draw them up, but here's the Python code: import RPi.GPIO as GPIO import time dPin = 11 uPin = 13 tPin = 15 def setup(): GPIO.setmode(GPIO.BOARD) GPIO.setup(dPin, GPIO.OUT) GPIO.setup(uPin, GPIO.OUT) GPIO.setup(tPin, GPIO.IN, pull_up_down=GPIO.PUD_UP) def loop(): while True: if GPIO.input(tPin)==GPIO.LOW: print('door open') GPIO.output(dPin, GPIO.HIGH) time.sleep(1) GPIO.output(dPin, GPIO.LOW) GPIO.wait_for_edge(tPin, GPIO.RISING) print('door close') GPIO.output(uPin, GPIO.HIGH) time.sleep(1.5) GPIO.output(uPin, GPIO.LOW) time.sleep(1) def destroy(): GPIO.output(dPin, GPIO.LOW) GPIO.output(uPin, GPIO.LOW) GPIO.cleanup() if __name__ == '__main__' : setup() try: loop() except KeyboardInterrupt : destroy()
  15. Dang it...can't get the input signal working. Back to the drawing board. I will keep working at it. If any of you guys are python experts, please help.
  16. As suggested earlier, I gave it a try with a raspberry pi! I'm completely new to coding, but its a start. Still no one-touch feature yet, but one thing at a time. For the prototype, I'm using a raspberry pi zero. Here's the coding in python: import RPi.GPI0 as GPI0 import time downrelayPin = 11 # activates relay for regulator going down uprelayPin = 13 # activates relay for regulator going up triggerPin = 12 # door’s microswitch grounds when opened def setup(): GPI0.setmode(GPI0.BOARD) GPI0.setup(downrelayPin, GPI0.OUT) GPI0.setup(uprelayPin, GPI0.OUT) GPI0.setup(triggerpin, GPI0.IN, pull_up_down=GPI0,PUD_UP) def loop() while True: if GPIO.input(triggerPin)==GPIO.LOW: GPIO.output(downrelayPin, GPIO.HIGH) time.sleep(1) GPIO.output(downrelayPin, GPIO.LOW) GPIO.wait_for_edge(triggerPin, GPIO.HIGH) GPIO.output(uprelayPin, GPIO.HIGH) time.sleep(1.5) GPIO.ouput(uprelayPin, GPIO.LOW) def destroy(): GPI0.output(downrelayPin, GPI0.LOW) GPI0.output(uprelayPin, GPI0.LOW) GPI0.cleanup() if __name__ == ‘__main__’ : setup() try: loop() except KeyboardInterrupt: destroy() I'm using the GPIO pins on the raspberry pi as input and outputs as defined in the code above. I can find the door grounding signal directly from the microswitch on the doors or N11-8 pin4 or pin19 on the SAM. The outputs will directly go to the window regulator on each side. Total cost so far is only $35 for the pi zero including shipping...the miscellaneous jumpers, resistors, breadboard..etc I already have laying around the house.
  17. Tolsen has a thread on everything you need to know about the coolant/heating system of the smart along with some custom mods that you might want to look up. But I agree with MikeT, if you're not warming up even on highway speed, then you have a thermostat issue. My old smart was able to hold 3 blobs in -30C while driving...only when idling does it drop in those temperature.
  18. The 4th Canada1's nickname will remain Red Pxl...@Smartzuum, were you the one that named the car? Anyways, I thought I'll create a thread sharing my adventures and journey with Red Pxl. She made it home with my wife and I late Sunday night without a hitch...though we almost got backed into by a careless driver in Valmount, BC - of course, AB plated driver. Took the rear bumper, crash bar, x-frame off... Took awhile, but finally cleaned the engine and turbo area and also replaced the TIK/turbo seal. Put everything back together and took some pics (my tiny garage)
  19. So...checked the wiring, they all look good visually. No chafing or rubbing that I can see. No water ingestion or pin corrosion on the actuator plug. Decided to just swap the actuator with an used one that I have laying around. Did a drag point and teach in with STAR and now she is running fine. Drove to ikea and back in the rain and had major traffic with a lot of stop and go. I guess it was just time for the actuator to die - 111188km on the clock. This is probably the last week that I’ll be driving Red pxl this season. Had a bit of a fight with the used actuator as it was in the extended position. Evilution’s method of hitting the brakes with ignition on to retract the rod didn’t work for me. I had to press the actuator against the floor with my weight to get the rod in.
  20. Had a beautiful drive this morning with Red Pxl...want to squeeze in a few more days before winter. As I was heading back to Edmonton about 30mins out of the city, all of a sudden, she started jerking whenever I had to feather the throttle. TC light came on, and so did the Engine light. This has happened in the past before, but usually it goes away after a shut down with 30sec for the SAM to reset. But this time, it didn't go away. I was able to limp the car to a friend's farm and tried to call my wife, in which she didn't answer. After about 10mins, I tried to start the car again, and this time, TC light was out, and Engine light was on, but it drove fine. I was able to make it home. With STAR connected, i had P2414 and P1703.
  21. @Willys that’s an awesome ramp...tempted to build one of my own now!
  22. @Willys Your version of MBSTAR already has TAN free coding
  23. So I'm hoping that we can use this thread to collect and share information on the EDC15c5 ECU particularly with regards to EGR off. With my KWP2000+ finally working, I was able to pull off the ECU my map which according to smartzuum may be actually the FlyingTiger tune light version as I noticed a quicker shift, but no increase in power. What I would like to do is to tune out the EGR section of the map eventually and possibility make some tweaks for a bit more power. From what I can gather so far: 1) the EGR section of the EDC15C5 map contains a string "001 000 001 048" when setup in a given layout (8-bit view) 2) the 1st set of "001" acts as a switch that turns the EGR map on/off (say 001 for on and 000 for off) 3) an alternative way of removing the EGR map is to edit the parameters at which the EGR is turned on (say to edit the temperature requirements...etc). But I do not have the address location for those parameters. Does anyone have a legit version of ECU Titanium/WinOLS/Swiftec that they would like to confirm this or do checksum for me? I know that I can probably pay someone to do the editing, and some ECU software even has modules that automatically deletes the EGR function. But I believe that gaining knowledge doesn't hurt, but my wallet does. I think we can all benefit from learning and understanding how it all comes together and work. Izzy
  24. I believe that the dealer can cut you a blade with just the VIN. Just pop the blade out and swap. As for the FOBs, you can recode an used one without any issues.
  25. Now that I've started comparing my stock map vs the tuned map, I'm sure that the map that I got is stolen from somebody rather than the OEM Brabus. The EGR sections have been modified/deleted - I'll post a pic later, but essentially there is no "dip" (compared to the above pic) meaning the EGR valve does not open at all in any rpm/IQ. With the EGR "tuned" out via this method, the valve body will still need to be connected as the ECU will still do a self check. Next goal is to find the EGR self check and turn it off!