Regular Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by stickman007

  1. Remove the 3 hex bolts to separate the electrical solenoid part of the EGR valve. The plunger should move freely and spring loaded. If its stuck inside the solenoid, or does not pop out smoothly, it maybe the issue. Good luck!
  2. Sweet! Another Edmontonian! Welcome to the club!
  3. Let me know...I'm always up for a smart car meet!
  4. I've been mulling over this for awhile, just wanted to see if we can get some AB Smart owners out for a get together event sometime in Aug or Sept. The idea is to go for a weekend road trip with a bunch of smarties...options? - Edmonton => Jasper (stay for one or two nights) - Edmonton => Rocky Mountain House (stay for one nite) => Abraham Lake => Saskatchewan Crossing => Jasper (one nite) - Edmonton => Waterton National Park (stay for one or two nights) Any interests or ideas?
  5. Not to question your experiences, but could you explain the theory? I'm a little unclear on how fitting the blanking plate would lead to less lag than the 180 cartridge mod.
  6. Got a chance to see Inno's car today. His P1403 EGR code was caused by a seized pin on the solenoid portion of the EGR valve. The pin was stuck inside the solenoid...when I tap on the solenoid body, the pin would pop out slightly, but then as soon as I push on it, it stuck back in. In a normal solenoid, the pin should slide freely, and spring loaded. We ended up swapping the solenoid on a working spare valve I had. The longer I work on these cars, the more I'm leaning against using an emulator if possible. I'll be working hard on developing a map that tunes the EGR out instead. @booneylander I have 2 spare ones as I didn't need to use my emulator for inno or willys. pm me if you still need one.
  7. Got a chance to meet up with Willy (Jonathan) today! Great guy, very passionate with Smart cars among other things...hahaha Played around with my MBSTAR on his car, made a EGR bypass pipe, and nerd it up talking about EGR and electronics! Next stop, TO for the weekend!
  8. A few years back, Leadwing gave me a broken MDC "no-slam" module that basically opens the window ~1" when you open the door, and then close when you shut the door - therefore preventing the need to slam the door hard. I was never able to reverse engineer what they had and gave up. Lately I'm motivated to try again as I'm about to get another smart car! Rather than trying to figure out what MDC did, I wonder if we can just design our own like the EGR emulator circuit as a community. I'm not trained in electrical engineering by any degree is in Biology, but here's what I've come up with to start. Anybody wants to chime in?
  9. I think I'll will try and assemble one of my earlier prototype circuit...yes, it won't have the 1 touch feature, but I think the annoyance is the door slamming. Will report back when I get a chance to test...success or failure? (how bad can it be? Car burn down? hahahaha
  10. If its a combination of 3 bars and beeping, the 1st thing I would check are the fuses (on your SAM).
  11. I still make them once in awhile...the MB plug was expensive, so I 3D print them. The STL file is available for download at the thingiverse site. If anybody wants the DWG file for editing, please pm me (free of course). The prospect of the ability to map the EGR function out is far better than using an emulator in the long run.
  12. The 4th Canada1's nickname will remain Red Pxl...@Smartzuum, were you the one that named the car? Anyways, I thought I'll create a thread sharing my adventures and journey with Red Pxl. She made it home with my wife and I late Sunday night without a hitch...though we almost got backed into by a careless driver in Valmount, BC - of course, AB plated driver. Took the rear bumper, crash bar, x-frame off... Took awhile, but finally cleaned the engine and turbo area and also replaced the TIK/turbo seal. Put everything back together and took some pics (my tiny garage)
  13. I don't think it needs all those engine internals...just paranoid (worst case scenario planning). Contrary to the perception (because I posted all these things that I want to check/work on), the car is in great shape, as I've said earlier, I have issues with perfection... With the fresh engine oil change, I will need to run it a few hundred kms before I can get a decent oil sample. But thanks for the tips to send the samples to Finning...I think that's where I will get it done.
  14. @smart142 Where do you source your hydraulic lifters, timing chain, oil pump sprocket...etc? Just in case. Would it be "smarter" to find an used engine to recondition, then swap?
  15. Just found out that my new employer (Peterbilt dealership) has a bodyshop'ta start building good relationship with those guys and who knows, they'll teach me how to do body work? or maybe even do it for me? hahaha...
  16. Red Pxl is parked until I can do a fully restoration on her. She is sitting in a friend's indoor garage along with 5 other collector's car (ironically old Mopar muscle cars). Maybe the car gods were not pleased that I removed a Canada1 from BC....The clutch actuator "kicked" again in dry condition a few days ago. No codes, nothing visibly wrong that I can see from the harness. It passed all the function test on STAR. No play on the shaft to the clutch fork. There's a slight knocking sound under hard acceleration, especially when turning left. Smartzuum mentioned that there has been A/C line knocking the firewall issues in the past. In the coming months, the plan now is to drop the engine for: 1) cleaning, 2) install to tolsen's restricter mod - I think faster warm up time helps with reducing engine wear, 3) check/repair if necessary all the harnesses, 4) check all the rockers, tappets, oil pump sprocket/chain, 5) remove the power steering rack to inspect and most likely rebuilt, 6) install my spare Webasto heater, 7) remove the rear quarter panels to redo the seals, and 8) take all the panels off for reconditioning and 3M coating. Red Pxl is going to be a show car by the time I'm finished with it. Its sad, but Red Pxl will not be going with me to Ontario this year
  17. Please post pictures...I’m curious to the answer to your question as well!
  18. As far as I'm aware, there is no natural safely switch on the 451. If its anything similar to the 450, the combination of the brake switch, the SE drive (uses hall sensors to determine the position of the shifter), informs the ECU on the conditions in which the engine can be cranked. There's also the gear selection sensor, but I believe that is not used outside of gear calibration.
  19. Smartzuum took care of this car really well...but I think the perfectionist in me is going to get me institutionalized some day. Did an oil change with Quartz Total 9000 with MANN filter this afternoon. I've had good luck running Quartz with my last smart car - out of LiquiMoly, Mobil1 European Formula, and Castrol Edge Syntech that I've tried...Quartz Total was the most quiet. Wiped rubber reconditioner on all the door and hatch seals. While I was looking for that "ticking/clicking" door sound, I removed the driver's door panel. Found the culprit! It was the door switch connector that was hitting the frame - put a zip tie on it around the hole and the noise didn't return during my test drive on the highway. I also adjusted the window stopper as I noticed that the driver side was slightly too high causing the support rubber to crack. Lube the window cable with graphite while the door panel was out. Anyways, more pics just for kicks.
  20. Changed fuel filter and wow, what a differences in power! The car runs like a champ now...if only I can get an oil change I'll be happy. I lend my buddy my Pela pump, and he lost the rubber check valve
  21. So ran into my 1st major issue today..the clutch actuator kicked. I was at the drive thru at McDs when it happened and initially I thought somebody hit me from behind! It drove okay for the rest of the day until I got home when I tried to drive it on to the ramps. It kicked so badly that I couldn't drive on Inspected the harness and traced it back to the ECU...everything looks clean and good. Took the actuator off, carefully lubed it, and re-teach the position and drag point. Hope it doesn't do this again. The clutch fork looked a bit worn...I'll need to make a brass sleeve for it this summer (something similar to the "nut-mod." While I was under, I also changed the alternator belt...start up squeaking is now gone. Upon closer inspection, the belt was worn.
  22. What does a worn oil pump sprocket sound like? I'm working on this car and there is this "metal dragging sound" intermittently...usually when the engine is revved hard/fast near the ~2.5-4k range.
  23. I would do a log of all the engine sensors while the car is running up to the stall point so you can see if a sensor is failing or a signal wire is making poor contact.
  24. This is a bit ambitious, but I would like something similar to the Brabus dual exhaust like MikeT...but since they're almost in the same category was a rainbow unicorn, its unlikely I'll find or be able to afford one. I was actually thinking of making my own stainless exhaust...but this will be in the long distant future. I have a friend that co-owns a custom tune shop...they built custom headers or exhausts for show cars - maybe I can get him to help me or at make me something. @smartzuum No external leak at least...but this may explain why the intake manifold is covered in crud inside. I do a lot of highway driving...I can compare to see if the crud level will go down by the end of the summer. I'll be using some intake cleaners while I'm at it. With the EGR cartridge blocked off, I'll find out soon enough. At any rate, I think it'll hold until the winter months when I can yank the engine out and do some proper work on it...
  25. Pull the EGR cartridge out was relatively clean, with a few alarmingly big chunks of carbon dropping out (hope not hard enough to harm the engine). Did the 180 degree turn when installing everything back together. Oil seepage hasn't come back yet for the upper EGR hose, so hurray, it was just a loose clamp. I'm really tempted to pull the steering rack apart and check for the cause of the slight grinding noise when the motor is assisting...