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Everything posted by stickman007

  1. Here was my adventure with the 3 Bars of death. Not sure if it applies to your problem, but check it out...the no esp communication was not related. Good luck!
  2. Have received a few pm with regards to EGR here it is again, but this time I'll only be making the plug and play version. I will need to order some parts so lead time is approx 2 weeks. Will need to order some components from the states. Cut off date is Dec 30th, pay when shipping confirmation is sent. A bit more pics on the construction of the plug and play. Made from a DLP 3D printer with clear resin 405nm resin. Terminals are metri-pack 180. Once assembled, a coat of epoxy goes on before the cover to help seal against moisture. Don't have a final picture cause they all went out the door so quickly last time, but I plastic dip them in black (all except for Willys - his was just painted black). $100 including shipping in Canada. PM me if you're interested before Dec 30th. Izzy
  3. Decided to document the process of a full EGR delete since I had to replace the turbo on my school's smart car. (*Many thanks to smart142 for giving an used turbo and TIK pipe for almost nothing). Still need to sort through all the pictures and identity the tools necessary...this thread will be continually edited and modified. Guess when its finalized and fixed by all the gurus then we can put it in the wiki. *Do this at your own risk! I do not take responsibility for your success, failure, or injury! *I did not discover/invent any of these techniques, all found on this forum by other dedicated members *If there are any mistakes or information to add, please post below and I will edit the process as I continue 1) Remove rear bumper (7 bolts all together...if you can't get past this step, please do not continue) 2) Remove the rear aluminum crash bar (6 bolts, 3 on each side, there's also 2 aluminum plates the is sandwiched between the subframe and the crash car). But in the picture, my setup is different as I have a hitch. 3) Remove muffler (2 bolts under the exhaust strap, 2 nuts on the retaining clamp) 4) Removed "X" frame (2 bolts under the subframe, 2 bolts/nuts connecting to the end of the "U" tube). Though this part may not be necessary for the EGR delete, I removed it anyways since I was swapping the turbo. 5) Remove the TIK pipe (2 clamps, one connected to the air box, the other to the turbo). Disconnect the PCV tube on the top (pops off easily). 6) Remove lower rubber intake pipe (1 screw type spring clamp connected to the output side of the intercooler, the other is a wire clip style connected to the EGR body) 7) Remove the 2 bolts that connects the EGR cooler to the EGR body. Very difficult to use etorx sockets due to its position, I used a 1/4" wrench/socket and it fits perfectly (luckily did not strip). There's a thin metal gasket that fits between the 2 gap. Picture shows the bolt on the lower side. 8) At this point, I opted to lower the engine to give me access to the front side where the thermostat is located. This step is necessary if you plan to remove the EGR cooler system. I started by using a piece of wood board and jack to support the base of the engine. Once the weight of the engine is supported, I removed 2 bolts located on the right side of the engine that holds the engine mount to the subframe. I slowly lower the jack while watching the right side of the engine. In past experiences, the vacuum line (right top of the engine) usually will hit the frame eventually, you can disconnect the vacuum line before hand to lower the engine slightly more. 9) With the engine lowered, I was able to gain access to the coolant hoses. To clarify, the 1st picture below shows the coolant route of the EGR cooler (after it was removed completely). The "U' shaped end of the hose goes into the thermostat, and the other end (where I cut) goes under the car and eventually to the heater core. When cutting the coolant hose, make sure there's enough left to connect to the thermostat. The diameter of the remaining hose is smaller than the opening of the thermostat, some members opted to use an adaptor, but I stretch it to fit, very tight, it will work and haven't seen any failures yet. 10) Connect the remaining hose to the thermostat, tighten with a stainless hose clamp. *Triple check the length of the the coolant hose, if it is too short, then tension will be on the hose and will eventually break, but if its too long, it will pitch and coolant flow will be impeded. My advice is to leave a bit extra when making the 1st cut, then take little bits off until you get the perfect length. 11) Unbolt the other end of the EGR cooler (2 bolts at the flange with a metal gasket in between, 5mm hex). The picture shows the top bolt holding the EGR cooler to the turbo manifold. 12) With the EGR cooler system completely removed, the intercooler fan can now be easily removed (plastic clip on the top, pull the top towards you and then slide the fan assembly up). Sorry, picture did not show top clip. 13) With the fan assembly removed, the EGR body can be accessed from different angles. Remove the top rubber intake hose (2 clamps, one connects to the EGR body, the other to the intake manifold). Remove the bolts holding the EGR body, unplug the EGR harness, remove the EGR body. 14) With the EGR body removed, there is another lower bracket that can be removed (3 bolts). It is not necessary to remove, but it provides easier access to the engine in the future. The engine ground cable is also attached to this bracket. The cable can be relocated to bolt directly to the transmission housing directly (a shorter bolt will be required). 15) Carefully, remove the metal fitting on the lower elbow hose. I used a cutting wheel, and then using a piler to peel the metal off. 16) Reassemble the intake elbow to the EGR bypass pipe (another thread on how to make one) and upper rubber intake hose using clamps. 17) Will need to fabricate a block plate for the turbo manifold, (different members had different ways of doing this). I ended up cutting the EGR cooler flange, reused the metal gasket (cleaning all the surfaces), and also adding a aluminum plate (overkill, but I had it a piece laying around), (using the excess bolts which were slightly longer than the original, I blocked the exhaust gas port from the manifold. 18) Almost done! Before you bolt the engine back in place, go to the front of the car and top up the coolant reservoir. Then remove the coolant temperature sensor via a metal spring clip (on the top side of the thermostat), listen for the "gurgling" sound as the air is being purged from the coolant system. Put the sensor back in as soon as the coolant starts to gush out of the hole! This bleeding process is important every time the coolant system is opened up, (will prevent over heating issues). Tip: thread the spring clip with the end of a long ziptie so not to loose the clip. Trust me, its very easy for it to just pop out of your hand and into the abyss! Go back and make sure the coolant reservoir is at the proper level. 19) Everything else should be reverse when putting back together! Make sure you have an EGR emulator or have the EGR function tuned out of your car otherwise you WILL go into limp mode and engine light. Torque Spec: (I don't have all of the official specs) Engine Mount to Subframe: 58Nm X-frame to Subframe: ?Nm X-frame to the end of "U" tube: 100Nm Exhaust bracket into Transmission: 23Nm Exhaust nuts to manifold: 30Nm
  4. CAN issues is communication errors between the different modules in the car - most likely between SAM and ECU, (but there are others that run on the same network ABS/TC, SRS, and Cluster). Check your CAN wires (high/low)...they should be a twisted pair that runs along the car to different modules (a parallel circuit with terminating resistors). Bet you there's a break in the wiring somewhere - its a harness issue, not modules.
  5. To those who have bought one of my newer emulators, here's the wiring #s that correspond to the harness connector: I will try to find the wiring colours which make it easier for some of you, but I'm currently travelling and don't have a smart car available for me to check. Izzy
  6. The 4th Canada1's nickname will remain Red Pxl...@Smartzuum, were you the one that named the car? Anyways, I thought I'll create a thread sharing my adventures and journey with Red Pxl. She made it home with my wife and I late Sunday night without a hitch...though we almost got backed into by a careless driver in Valmount, BC - of course, AB plated driver. Took the rear bumper, crash bar, x-frame off... Took awhile, but finally cleaned the engine and turbo area and also replaced the TIK/turbo seal. Put everything back together and took some pics (my tiny garage)
  7. True enough...I'm just bummed cause I've been learning how to repair windshield cracks and chips from a professional (friend that owns a shop in BC), but this one can't be repaired. On another note, did the overrunning pulley mod and put a new belt on before the BC trip....loved how smooth the shifts are now. Red Pxl has 119,701km now!
  8. So I took Red Pxl to Hope, BC this past weekend and decided to hit the dreaded Coquihalla Hwy since it would save us significant time over taking the old Hwy 1 from Kamloops. Just wanted to get a feel of how others have experienced it with their ride. With the remap, I was able to climb up the hill pretty strong maintaining at least 100km/hr. SG2 showed consistently at 15-16psi on the steep sections on 5th gear around 105C for temp. I still had power if I put my foot down, but I didn't want to boost past 17.5psi. I peaked past 18psi a few times when trying to past idiots that were in the middle lane (AB plate mostly)...but let off the throttle right away. I did set limp mode when leaving Hope, BC trying to merge and not paying attention to my boost. Immediately lost power and not able to rev past 3k rpm. I cycled the ignition - able to rev past 3k rpm, but then I had no power...barely able to make 100km/hr on flats and had to cycle the ignition again to get back to normal power. I pushed the car coming back to AB on Hwy16 and got up to 135km/hr, but slowed down after my wife gave me the dirty look So going past 17.5psi to set limp mode is only if the boost is sustained? I've hit 18.4psi for a brief moment and didn't set the code. I did have a complaint about my Chinese turbo...the waste gate is slow to react. Feels that it can't keep up when the boost peaks suddenly...I could adjust it mechanically, but I could never hit past 17psi on 6th gear, only get in trouble in 5th. Further, I never get past 17.4psi in AB no matter what gear (we're too flat).
  9. So finally able to take Red Pxl on its 1st trip back to BC! Turbo is holding up well after 3k of driving. Hit max 18.4psi for a sec or so on SG2. Sustained 17.4psi up the Coquihalla. Alternator on the other hand is acting up. Idles at 13.0v and sometime drops to 12.8v. When driving, it varies from 13.2-13.5v. When it was raining, it went up to 13.6v...I think it might be corrosion at the alternator terminal that’s the issue. Soon after crossing the B.C. border, got a huge rock chip that broke through both layers of the glass...not repairable, put tape over it until we get back to AB. I wonder how much MB will charge for an OEM windshield as I have not been impressed with the last glass shop I was at in Edmonton. Finally made it to Hope, BC...will post pics when I get home. Will post pics when I figure out how to shrink the file size.
  10. So finally did this mod! My pulley chewed up a new belt in less than 4months! It was squealing every morning. I cheap out and used aliexpress: I definitely do not recommend this brand as my alternator tool doesn't actual fit in there...the socket was slightly too big (you could use a hammer and tap it in, but then you won't be able to get it out). I was not able to tighten the pulley as much as I like, but it should be fine as it will get tighter due to the rotation and the direction of the threads...I hope. But the pulley does work quite well. Noticeably smoother shifts. Thank you Tolsen!
  11. Things were slow at work, took the day off early and decided to attempt replacing the front motor mounts that has been sitting on my shelf for a few weeks - the rear left and right went in as soon as I got them from Eddy. These were MB OEM mounts: Front engine mount - 0003077V010000000 Rear Left transmission mount - 0005810V003000000 Rear Right engine mount - 0003144V05000000 The front mount was a pain to get at. Followed evilution's guide for the most part. The alternator shield was removed as well as the lower IC shroud. The OEM engine block heater had to be removed. The main bolt and nut supporting the centre of front mount was removed with a 17mm wrench on both side (ratcheting ones make life a lot smoother). The top 2 bolts holding the mount were removed with a 11mm ratcheting wrench even though they were torx head. The front of the engine was supported with a scissor jack. I also inserted the bolt from the p/s side during reassembly as CANMAN suggested in his alternator R&R wiki. The bottom was the old mount and the top is new - noticed that they're slightly different! Problem found! I noticed that under hard acceleration (especially when turning) I had a sewing machine type sound - the engine also moves a lot when pushing and pulling by hand. There were also sounds of knocking when engine is shuts off. The whole ordeal took me about 1.5hrs on the ground without a lift. The car was raised with oil change ramps. Hope this info will come in handy for someone Izzy
  12. Originally I thought my knocking sound was tappets/rockers related, but by accident I noticed that the sound was gone when I did the polyurethane injection on the rear mounts. i took it out for a short rip this evening and the acceleration knocking sound is pretty much gone. My gear shifts seems to be a bit more solid as well. You having intermittent acceleration sounds MikeT?
  13. Nice! Will need to to hide it from the wife!
  14. With the flying tiger map, The EGR valve is turned off, but the self check is still present so if the valve is unplugged, CEL and limp mode will occur. I believe, but haven’t confirm this, but the Malone map might allow you to delete the valve all together. I do have plug n play EGR emulators if u want. PM me for more details. Izzy
  15. Put my Brabus valance away and installed a SCU hitch and valance.
  16. The starter is controlled by the ECM/SAM rather than directly from the ignition switch...this is why you're able to use STAR to crank when doing diagnostic tests. This is interesting because I've seen a few examples of where the ECM/SAM over cranks under some situations. Not an issue with the ignition switch or starter. The best guess is that the ECM is not seeing the engine rpm or bump in voltage from the alternator and thinks it needs to keep cranking therefore sending the 12v to the starter signal wire. I've never gotten a chance to find out where the problem lies unfortunately.
  17. Thinking of selling my MBSTAR Compact 3 Setup and upgrading to a SDConnect C4 as I really hate all the cables that's involved on my C3. Setup: - Compact 3 MUX includes OBD2 adaptor and serial connection - StarTec Serial to USB adaptor (allows you to run from an USB port rather than using an older laptop with serial) - 128gig USB 3.0 with a copy of MBSTAR 11.2012 (Has WIS, but for some reason, doesn't have the 450 materials, but does have 451...can try to get it working, but will need sometime to figure it out). - Carrying case The setup runs on VMWare...if you have a Mac, I can give you my current VMWare program, I don't have PC VMWare. The DAS has the blacklist fix, and TAN bypass fix done already, but I also have a TAN generator on there as well. Feel free to pm me if you have any questions. I'm asking $300. Izzy
  18. Yes...careful not to break any locking tabs!
  19. I did that mod on my old smartie...the mod works well if the wipers are good and windshield treated. If not, there’s always water running up the windshield left behind on the downstroke.
  20. If you unplug the IAT, the fan should come on all the time (with CEL, but u can erase that later)...if the circuit is good.
  21. Mine was crossed referenced to Toslen's recommendation. Will be installing it sometime when I change the front motor mounts...eventually.
  22. Took Red Pxl for a drive to Drumheller today...ran into some “fluttering” noise after a quick stop in Lacombe. SG2 revealed that the noise seems to be in sync with my boost. Drove to Red Deer anyways thinking that the turbo is probably it’s last leg even though it’s pretty new. In the princess auto parking lot, checked the engine sign of anything out of ordinary. Checked the oil level...and it was way over the full line!! I’ve made a rookie mistake!! After years of warning others not to go past 3/4 on the dipstick, I’ve accidentally overfilled a lot! Not sure how that happened as I usually double check when I change my oil. Went into PA and picked up a new fluid extractor and pulled out ~300mL. With the oil at 3/4 now, the noise went away. Idiot! Boosted up to 17.3psi going up the hill on hwy56 leaving Drumheller.