stickman007

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Everything posted by stickman007

  1. The 4th Canada1's nickname will remain Red Pxl...@Smartzuum, were you the one that named the car? Anyways, I thought I'll create a thread sharing my adventures and journey with Red Pxl. She made it home with my wife and I late Sunday night without a hitch...though we almost got backed into by a careless driver in Valmount, BC - of course, AB plated driver. Took the rear bumper, crash bar, x-frame off... Took awhile, but finally cleaned the engine and turbo area and also replaced the TIK/turbo seal. Put everything back together and took some pics (my tiny garage)
  2. You spirit? Don't worry, I'm in my 30s, and I drive like grandma too! My old cdi got 3.8L/100km driving across Canada...but Red Pxl is only getting ~5L/100km so far on my trip back.
  3. I was definitely not very rational when I bought my 1st Smart....didn't think the Canada1 was either! Hahahaha I thought it was cool...and I needed a hobby. @Willys the plan was to have a dash cam all along...just didn't think I'll need it that quickly. I have 1 on my GLI and man, I can easily have my own youtube channel on "the brave and skilled drivers of AB"
  4. @MikeT Luckily nothing was damaged...no contact, but I would say it was damn close. After the incident, he took off driving like a maniac, but I do have a picture of his license plate on my phone. The engine is actually in very good shape. The timing chain was tight, no visible fuel leak on the high pressure pump, and all the hoses look. I still haven't try looking for that exhaust leak squeak yet...its usually the connection between the turbo and EGR cooler - very tough location. Not a big issue. Once I sort out what I want to do with the EGR, then I'll fix the squeak...its usually gone after warm up anyways.
  5. I think that's the "GT" jonEmash bought from coastalsteve? If he is the owner, he lives in Kamloops and has a garage full of Smart cars. Met up with him a few years back...I'll have to dig up that pic of his garage. jonEmash hasn't been active on the forum for awhile now.
  6. Its me! The Canada1 got a quick car wash today to at least get all the bugs off. Bumper and muffler came off to clean up some of the oil crud build up. The upper EGR hose was leaking at the manifold and leaked oil all over the engine, but not enough to drip on to the ground. A closer check revealed that the hose was not cracked or broken...so maybe it was just a loose clamp. There was also a lot of oil around the turbo area, so maybe the turbo TIK seal needs to be replaced? Time will tell - the car did not burn any oil though...dip stick didn't drop before and after the trip. Will modify the original 30pin iPod cradle to fit the new iPhone cable sometime this week. Maybe draft the design on CAD so that everyone can print or have one made? Love the car to pieces...Thank you Keith!
  7. Wow, what a whirlwind weekend! Friday: Left the house at 4:45am to catch the flight to Abbotsford. Met up with Keith to take his Canada1 away from him! Drove to Hope, BC with my wife to check out the Othello Tunnels. Drove back and help Keith check out and eventually put on his Strikeline. Saturday: Drove to the Vancouver Aquarium...suddenly got sick with the stomach flu. Limp the rest of the day so not to spoil my wife's 1st trip to Stanley Park. Met up with some old friends and drove down to Maple Falls across the boarder. Sunday: Left Abbotsford at 6:30am. Almost got T-bonded in a parking lot by a carless AB driver in Valmount. Didn't puke the entire trip back! The Canada1 drove as expected. Got a lot of curious looks on the highway. Having cruise control is amazing!
  8. Greetings fellow smart car enthusiasts! I will be travelling from Edmonton to the Abbotsford to pick up a new to me Smart car and was wondering if anybody would like to have a meet up while I'm in town. I'm thinking of Friday evening Jun-15th. Recommendation for a good restaurant as well? Izzy
  9. Did I hear somebody building their own trailer? Hahaha, must hijack this thread! I thought I was the only lunatic that wants to build my own trailer. Even though a smart car should be easily be able to pull it, I will not be installing a hitch on my smart. The one in the pic is designed my CLC-Boats - I'm about 80% done. The pic was about 2 months ago.
  10. @Smartzuum - just did online flight check-in and got my boarding pass, I'm coming to take your baby away!
  11. Just for documentation purposes...had to piece information from fq101 and evilution: SAM to Alternator N11-8 pin7 (Black/Yellow) - I'm assuming that it goes to the "L" and should get ignition 12v Alternator to ECU Pin47 (white, lower connector) - I'm assuming that it goes to "FR" and basically how the ECU controls load
  12. Just wanted to think aloud here and hopefully bounce ideas off the community. I've heard and seen a few 450s that seems to over crank. I have no real explanation for this phenomenon until I've recently gotten a clue - a bad alternator. A bad alternator seems to be related to the over cranking as the ECU doesn't seem to recognize that the engine is running. I've been working on a car that seems to have developed this over cranking issue just as the alternator died. I believe that the ECU relies on the crank position sensor to read the rpm, but I don't think the ECU use that information to "confirm" that the car is running. I think its the "DF" signal (white wire) that sends a pulse to the ECU to let it know when the engine is running as well as load. I'm currently waiting for a new alternator. If the problem clears up, I maybe able to confirm this? Any electrical gurus out there that can chime in? Izzy
  13. Man, I was hoping it was the dog! Had a good laugh when I saw that...thanks MikeT
  14. Guess I was wrong. The new alternator came in, and I installed it last nite (what a miserable job). The over cranking still happens, but to a lesser degree, but I don't think the 2 are related. If anything changes, I will report back.
  15. I managed to hit 615km once a few years back when I drove to from Edmonton to Williams Lake. I had 0L on the dash when I pulled into the gas station. It wasn't done on purpose, I forgot that some gas stations don't open on statutory holidays and it was was in the middle of the night. Rather not try that again...our in-tank lift pump uses fuel for cooling.
  16. Awesome job!
  17. Was just research Raspberry Pi today...and I think you're right, it would be much more reliable, potential for expansion, and easier to program if I went with something like that. Well...I think right now, its just you and me brainstorming!
  18. A few years back, Leadwing gave me a broken MDC "no-slam" module that basically opens the window ~1" when you open the door, and then close when you shut the door - therefore preventing the need to slam the door hard. I was never able to reverse engineer what they had and gave up. Lately I'm motivated to try again as I'm about to get another smart car! Rather than trying to figure out what MDC did, I wonder if we can just design our own like the EGR emulator circuit as a community. I'm not trained in electrical engineering by any means...my degree is in Biology, but here's what I've come up with to start. Anybody wants to chime in?
  19. Remove the SAM, make note of where everything is plugged in including fuses! - Open up the case (a few screw and plastic tabs) - Be careful not to damage the ribbon as it is fragile - Locate N11-3 and clean up the area with contact cleaner and or with a tooth brush - Solder the wires you wish to bypass directly on the PCB - Drill a hole at a convenient location - Run the wire(s) through, and reassemble everything - You could either solder the wires directly to the corresponding wires on the harness, or you can purchase pins/connectors to make your own (recommended). SAM pinout and removal instructions can be also be found on either evilution or fq101 should u need more guidance. Good reading before you start:
  20. Power goes directly to the motor after the last relay...I don't think there's any wires that goes to the SAM for windows. Yes, eliminating the 1st relay would save a bit of complexity, but how would the the windows down be powered/triggered? (I still need to do some testing - I just assumed that the door switch grounds whenever the door is closed...it could easily be the other way around). Constant power to the 555 timer circuit would not draw much amperage... I am looking at maybe learning raspberry pi or look into PIC micro controllers... I found the original no-slam circuit in my tool box yesterday. It was not made by MDC, it was pinhead that made it - has his email on it. His circuit does seem to use a micro controller. There's a chip that has 14 pins on it that I can't identify.
  21. Would this work with the transistor?
  22. I'm sure some of the relays can be eliminated with transistors, but I'm not sure how to do it properly. Diodes and fuses will probably be needed in a few places. I only did the windows up side...windows down will be exactly the same, but on the 87 pin on the 1st relay. Edit: made a mistake on R10k near pin 7 on the 555 timer...should be R1k (otherwise it will output for 5s instead of 0.5s)
  23. OEM repair for the N11- connectors: https://shop.flyingtiger.ca/index.php?p=catalog&mode=search&search_str=SAM&x=0&y=0 However, in the past, I simply remove the wire(s) from the connector and solder directly on the SAM for repair. While you're at it, you can do a conformal coat on the electrical board. Depending on the fuse holder colour that you want, they have different part# - you can look them up on the evilution site, (highly recommend signing up if you plan on doing any work on your own).
  24. There's a few fuse holders that clips on to the side of the SAM. Whenever they're misplaced, the symptoms that you described could happen. The side of the SAM provides switched and constant power. Picture from evilution.co.uk
  25. I don't think I even have that unit anymore...it was coated in a thick layer of epoxy, so I wasn't able to trace the circuit. Just had an idea for the one-touch feature is to use a delay latch circuit that's self powering after the trigger...but it too has to be limited by the 555 timer monostable setup for around 4-5sec. This feature can be added into the circuit once the no-slam is finalized... Using microcontrollers is a good idea...will probably save a lot of unnecessary complexity, but others with more hardware programming experiences will have to take the lead. I will make a detailed schematic including the 555 timers and posted it up.