stickman007

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Everything posted by stickman007

  1. A few years back, Leadwing gave me a broken MDC "no-slam" module that basically opens the window ~1" when you open the door, and then close when you shut the door - therefore preventing the need to slam the door hard. I was never able to reverse engineer what they had and gave up. Lately I'm motivated to try again as I'm about to get another smart car! Rather than trying to figure out what MDC did, I wonder if we can just design our own like the EGR emulator circuit as a community. I'm not trained in electrical engineering by any means...my degree is in Biology, but here's what I've come up with to start. Anybody wants to chime in?
  2. Dang it...can't get the input signal working. Back to the drawing board. I will keep working at it. If any of you guys are python experts, please help.
  3. As suggested earlier, I gave it a try with a raspberry pi! I'm completely new to coding, but its a start. Still no one-touch feature yet, but one thing at a time. For the prototype, I'm using a raspberry pi zero. Here's the coding in python: import RPi.GPI0 as GPI0 import time downrelayPin = 11 # activates relay for regulator going down uprelayPin = 13 # activates relay for regulator going up triggerPin = 12 # door’s microswitch grounds when opened def setup(): GPI0.setmode(GPI0.BOARD) GPI0.setup(downrelayPin, GPI0.OUT) GPI0.setup(uprelayPin, GPI0.OUT) GPI0.setup(triggerpin, GPI0.IN, pull_up_down=GPI0,PUD_UP) def loop() while True: if GPIO.input(triggerPin)==GPIO.LOW: GPIO.output(downrelayPin, GPIO.HIGH) time.sleep(1) GPIO.output(downrelayPin, GPIO.LOW) GPIO.wait_for_edge(triggerPin, GPIO.HIGH) GPIO.output(uprelayPin, GPIO.HIGH) time.sleep(1.5) GPIO.ouput(uprelayPin, GPIO.LOW) def destroy(): GPI0.output(downrelayPin, GPI0.LOW) GPI0.output(uprelayPin, GPI0.LOW) GPI0.cleanup() if __name__ == ‘__main__’ : setup() try: loop() except KeyboardInterrupt: destroy() I'm using the GPIO pins on the raspberry pi as input and outputs as defined in the code above. I can find the door grounding signal directly from the microswitch on the doors or N11-8 pin4 or pin19 on the SAM. The outputs will directly go to the window regulator on each side. Total cost so far is only $35 for the pi zero including shipping...the miscellaneous jumpers, resistors, breadboard..etc I already have laying around the house.
  4. Tolsen has a thread on everything you need to know about the coolant/heating system of the smart along with some custom mods that you might want to look up. But I agree with MikeT, if you're not warming up even on highway speed, then you have a thermostat issue. My old smart was able to hold 3 blobs in -30C while driving...only when idling does it drop in those temperature.
  5. The 4th Canada1's nickname will remain Red Pxl...@Smartzuum, were you the one that named the car? Anyways, I thought I'll create a thread sharing my adventures and journey with Red Pxl. She made it home with my wife and I late Sunday night without a hitch...though we almost got backed into by a careless driver in Valmount, BC - of course, AB plated driver. Took the rear bumper, crash bar, x-frame off... Took awhile, but finally cleaned the engine and turbo area and also replaced the TIK/turbo seal. Put everything back together and took some pics (my tiny garage)
  6. So...checked the wiring, they all look good visually. No chafing or rubbing that I can see. No water ingestion or pin corrosion on the actuator plug. Decided to just swap the actuator with an used one that I have laying around. Did a drag point and teach in with STAR and now she is running fine. Drove to ikea and back in the rain and had major traffic with a lot of stop and go. I guess it was just time for the actuator to die - 111188km on the clock. This is probably the last week that I’ll be driving Red pxl this season. Had a bit of a fight with the used actuator as it was in the extended position. Evilution’s method of hitting the brakes with ignition on to retract the rod didn’t work for me. I had to press the actuator against the floor with my weight to get the rod in.
  7. Had a beautiful drive this morning with Red Pxl...want to squeeze in a few more days before winter. As I was heading back to Edmonton about 30mins out of the city, all of a sudden, she started jerking whenever I had to feather the throttle. TC light came on, and so did the Engine light. This has happened in the past before, but usually it goes away after a shut down with 30sec for the SAM to reset. But this time, it didn't go away. I was able to limp the car to a friend's farm and tried to call my wife, in which she didn't answer. After about 10mins, I tried to start the car again, and this time, TC light was out, and Engine light was on, but it drove fine. I was able to make it home. With STAR connected, i had P2414 and P1703.
  8. @Willys that’s an awesome ramp...tempted to build one of my own now!
  9. @Willys Your version of MBSTAR already has TAN free coding
  10. So I'm hoping that we can use this thread to collect and share information on the EDC15c5 ECU particularly with regards to EGR off. With my KWP2000+ finally working, I was able to pull off the ECU my map which according to smartzuum may be actually the FlyingTiger tune light version as I noticed a quicker shift, but no increase in power. What I would like to do is to tune out the EGR section of the map eventually and possibility make some tweaks for a bit more power. From what I can gather so far: 1) the EGR section of the EDC15C5 map contains a string "001 000 001 048" when setup in a given layout (8-bit view) 2) the 1st set of "001" acts as a switch that turns the EGR map on/off (say 001 for on and 000 for off) 3) an alternative way of removing the EGR map is to edit the parameters at which the EGR is turned on (say to edit the temperature requirements...etc). But I do not have the address location for those parameters. Does anyone have a legit version of ECU Titanium/WinOLS/Swiftec that they would like to confirm this or do checksum for me? I know that I can probably pay someone to do the editing, and some ECU software even has modules that automatically deletes the EGR function. But I believe that gaining knowledge doesn't hurt, but my wallet does. I think we can all benefit from learning and understanding how it all comes together and work. Izzy
  11. I believe that the dealer can cut you a blade with just the VIN. Just pop the blade out and swap. As for the FOBs, you can recode an used one without any issues.
  12. Now that I've started comparing my stock map vs the tuned map, I'm sure that the map that I got is stolen from somebody rather than the OEM Brabus. The EGR sections have been modified/deleted - I'll post a pic later, but essentially there is no "dip" (compared to the above pic) meaning the EGR valve does not open at all in any rpm/IQ. With the EGR "tuned" out via this method, the valve body will still need to be connected as the ECU will still do a self check. Next goal is to find the EGR self check and turn it off!
  13. HA! I jump the gun last nite....here's the OEM EGR map that I've finally found. For those who are nerdy, the location is a 16x12 map 6D724.
  14. Making a little bit of progress though just like the general consent online, WinOLS has a very steep learning curve. From my limited experiences and research, I believe that's what the EGR map looks like 2D mode. Found the above map by searching for the "001 000 001 048" string. @toslen The damos file on your link seems to just add a bunch of German folders, but no physical location or definitions. Most likely that I imported them wrong though. Back to hours of YouTube researching!
  15. @smartdriver thanks for the info and contact! @tolsen interesting...maybe it was labelled as Brabus, but actually stolen from somebody? FlyingTiger, Smart142 or some European tuner? I have smart142’s map on an old ECU that I should be able to pull out, but kind’a should ask for permission....maybe then I can compare the differences?
  16. @Willys I think your car already has smart142 tune, but better safe to ask him. The "map" is where the ECU stores all the parameters necessary for the engine to operate. Basically all ECU takes all the information from the sensors => consult with the map => output to effectors (injectors, timing, fuel solenoid...etc). Where these parameters are stored can be retrieved and overwritten by certain communication protocols such as the KWP2000+ that I mentioned above. MBSTAR is a different communication tool that runs on a different protocol. So to speak, MBSTAR makes changes to the setting of the "program" whereas KWP2000+ changes the coding of the "program." I did back up my map, so if anybody is interested, pm me and I can send it to you. I'm currently running the Brabus diesel map (at least what I believe it is from my source). @tolsen I know somebody near Edmonton that has a copy of the legit WinOLS (will go beg and pled to use it)...will download your link and see if I can lean anything from it. Thanks again for the driver and now the definitions! @smartdriver You were mentioning when we talked in TO this summer that your EGR is tuned out. Any chances we can take a look at your map?
  17. Took Red Pxl out of storage yesterday and took it for a rip out of town. Was driving it most of today and put on about 200km in just 2 days! Got my new KWP2000+ work finally (thank you tolsen for the driver), so I remapped the car. Plan to drive the Canada1 for the next month or so just to get it out of my system before storing her again for winter.
  18. Pulled Red Pxl out of storage and went for a nice 80km drive in the country side. Man I missed driving my Smart.
  19. Between the EGR valve body and the EGR cooler (has 2 coolant hose connected to it, a silver-ish pipe that connects to the turbo on the other side).
  20. Decided to document the process of a full EGR delete since I had to replace the turbo on my school's smart car. (*Many thanks to smart142 for giving an used turbo and TIK pipe for almost nothing). Still need to sort through all the pictures and identity the tools necessary...this thread will be continually edited and modified. Guess when its finalized and fixed by all the gurus then we can put it in the wiki. *Do this at your own risk! I do not take responsibility for your success, failure, or injury! *I did not discover/invent any of these techniques, all found on this forum by other dedicated members *If there are any mistakes or information to add, please post below and I will edit the process as I continue 1) Remove rear bumper (7 bolts all together...if you can't get past this step, please do not continue) 2) Remove the rear aluminum crash bar (6 bolts, 3 on each side, there's also 2 aluminum plates the is sandwiched between the subframe and the crash car). But in the picture, my setup is different as I have a hitch. 3) Remove muffler (2 bolts under the exhaust strap, 2 nuts on the retaining clamp) 4) Removed "X" frame (2 bolts under the subframe, 2 bolts/nuts connecting to the end of the "U" tube). Though this part may not be necessary for the EGR delete, I removed it anyways since I was swapping the turbo. 5) Remove the TIK pipe (2 clamps, one connected to the air box, the other to the turbo). Disconnect the PCV tube on the top (pops off easily). 6) Remove lower rubber intake pipe (1 screw type spring clamp connected to the output side of the intercooler, the other is a wire clip style connected to the EGR body) 7) Remove the 2 bolts that connects the EGR cooler to the EGR body. Very difficult to use etorx sockets due to its position, I used a 1/4" wrench/socket and it fits perfectly (luckily did not strip). There's a thin metal gasket that fits between the 2 gap. Picture shows the bolt on the lower side. 8) At this point, I opted to lower the engine to give me access to the front side where the thermostat is located. This step is necessary if you plan to remove the EGR cooler system. I started by using a piece of wood board and jack to support the base of the engine. Once the weight of the engine is supported, I removed 2 bolts located on the right side of the engine that holds the engine mount to the subframe. I slowly lower the jack while watching the right side of the engine. In past experiences, the vacuum line (right top of the engine) usually will hit the frame eventually, you can disconnect the vacuum line before hand to lower the engine slightly more. 9) With the engine lowered, I was able to gain access to the coolant hoses. To clarify, the 1st picture below shows the coolant route of the EGR cooler (after it was removed completely). The "U' shaped end of the hose goes into the thermostat, and the other end (where I cut) goes under the car and eventually to the heater core. When cutting the coolant hose, make sure there's enough left to connect to the thermostat. The diameter of the remaining hose is smaller than the opening of the thermostat, some members opted to use an adaptor, but I stretch it to fit, very tight, it will work and haven't seen any failures yet. 10) Connect the remaining hose to the thermostat, tighten with a stainless hose clamp. *Triple check the length of the the coolant hose, if it is too short, then tension will be on the hose and will eventually break, but if its too long, it will pitch and coolant flow will be impeded. My advice is to leave a bit extra when making the 1st cut, then take little bits off until you get the perfect length. 11) Unbolt the other end of the EGR cooler (2 bolts at the flange with a metal gasket in between, 5mm hex). The picture shows the top bolt holding the EGR cooler to the turbo manifold. 12) With the EGR cooler system completely removed, the intercooler fan can now be easily removed (plastic clip on the top, pull the top towards you and then slide the fan assembly up). Sorry, picture did not show top clip. 13) With the fan assembly removed, the EGR body can be accessed from different angles. Remove the top rubber intake hose (2 clamps, one connects to the EGR body, the other to the intake manifold). Remove the bolts holding the EGR body, unplug the EGR harness, remove the EGR body. 14) With the EGR body removed, there is another lower bracket that can be removed (3 bolts). It is not necessary to remove, but it provides easier access to the engine in the future. The engine ground cable is also attached to this bracket. The cable can be relocated to bolt directly to the transmission housing directly (a shorter bolt will be required). 15) Carefully, remove the metal fitting on the lower elbow hose. I used a cutting wheel, and then using a piler to peel the metal off. 16) Reassemble the intake elbow to the EGR bypass pipe (another thread on how to make one) and upper rubber intake hose using clamps. 17) Will need to fabricate a block plate for the turbo manifold, (different members had different ways of doing this). I ended up cutting the EGR cooler flange, reused the metal gasket (cleaning all the surfaces), and also adding a aluminum plate (overkill, but I had it a piece laying around), (using the excess bolts which were slightly longer than the original, I blocked the exhaust gas port from the manifold. 18) Almost done! Before you bolt the engine back in place, go to the front of the car and top up the coolant reservoir. Then remove the coolant temperature sensor via a metal spring clip (on the top side of the thermostat), listen for the "gurgling" sound as the air is being purged from the coolant system. Put the sensor back in as soon as the coolant starts to gush out of the hole! This bleeding process is important every time the coolant system is opened up, (will prevent over heating issues). Tip: thread the spring clip with the end of a long ziptie so not to loose the clip. Trust me, its very easy for it to just pop out of your hand and into the abyss! Go back and make sure the coolant reservoir is at the proper level. 19) Everything else should be reverse when putting back together! Make sure you have an EGR emulator or have the EGR function tuned out of your car otherwise you WILL go into limp mode and engine light. Torque Spec: (I don't have all of the official specs) Engine Mount to Subframe: 58Nm X-frame to Subframe: ?Nm X-frame to the end of "U" tube: 100Nm Exhaust bracket into Transmission: 23Nm Exhaust nuts to manifold: 30Nm
  21. @Sydney you will be in limp mode (can't rev past 3k, and engine is gutless) if you don't have the emulator. As Wilys pointed out, its easy to make and the schematics for the emulator is found here on the CsC wiki section. Good Luck!
  22. Remove the 3 hex bolts to separate the electrical solenoid part of the EGR valve. The plunger should move freely and spring loaded. If its stuck inside the solenoid, or does not pop out smoothly, it maybe the issue. Good luck!
  23. Sweet! Another Edmontonian! Welcome to the club!
  24. Let me know...I'm always up for a smart car meet!
  25. I've been mulling over this for awhile, just wanted to see if we can get some AB Smart owners out for a get together event sometime in Aug or Sept. The idea is to go for a weekend road trip with a bunch of smarties...options? - Edmonton => Jasper (stay for one or two nights) - Edmonton => Rocky Mountain House (stay for one nite) => Abraham Lake => Saskatchewan Crossing => Jasper (one nite) - Edmonton => Waterton National Park (stay for one or two nights) Any interests or ideas?