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Posts posted by stickman007

  1. On 2019-08-18 at 11:57 AM, MikeT said:

    Better there than the glass roof!


    True enough...I'm just bummed cause I've been learning how to repair windshield cracks and chips from a professional (friend that owns a shop in BC), but this one can't be repaired.


    On another note, did the overrunning pulley mod and put a new belt on before the BC trip....loved how smooth the shifts are now. Red Pxl has 119,701km now!

  2. So I took Red Pxl to Hope, BC this past weekend and decided to hit the dreaded Coquihalla Hwy since it would save us significant time over taking the old Hwy 1 from Kamloops. Just wanted to get a feel of how others have experienced it with their ride.


    With the remap, I was able to climb up the hill pretty strong maintaining at least 100km/hr. SG2 showed consistently at 15-16psi on the steep sections on 5th gear around 105C for temp. I still had power if I put my foot down, but I didn't want to boost past 17.5psi. I peaked past 18psi a few times when trying to past idiots that were in the middle lane (AB plate mostly)...but let off the throttle right away. I did set limp mode when leaving Hope, BC trying to merge and not paying attention to my boost. Immediately lost power and not able to rev past 3k rpm. I cycled the ignition - able to rev past 3k rpm, but then I had no power...barely able to make 100km/hr on flats and had to cycle the ignition again to get back to normal power. I pushed the car coming back to AB on Hwy16 and got up to 135km/hr, but slowed down after my wife gave me the dirty look :(


    So going past 17.5psi to set limp mode is only if the boost is sustained? I've hit 18.4psi for a brief moment and didn't set the code.


    I did have a complaint about my Chinese turbo...the waste gate is slow to react. Feels that it can't keep up when the boost peaks suddenly...I could adjust it mechanically, but I could never hit past 17psi on 6th gear, only get in trouble in 5th. Further, I never get past 17.4psi in AB no matter what gear (we're too flat).





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  3. So finally able to take Red Pxl on its 1st trip back to BC!


    Turbo is holding up well after 3k of driving. Hit max 18.4psi for a sec or so on SG2. Sustained 17.4psi up the Coquihalla.


    Alternator on the other hand is acting up. Idles at 13.0v and sometime drops to 12.8v. When driving, it varies from 13.2-13.5v. When it was raining, it went up to 13.6v...I think it might be corrosion at the alternator terminal that’s the issue.


    Soon after crossing the B.C. border, got a huge rock chip that broke through both layers of the glass...not repairable, put tape over it until we get back to AB. I wonder how much MB will charge for an OEM windshield as I have not been impressed with the last glass shop I was at in Edmonton.


    Finally made it to Hope, BC...will post pics when I get home. Will post pics when I figure out how to shrink the file size.



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  4. So finally did this mod! My pulley chewed up a new belt in less than 4months! It was squealing every morning.


    I cheap out and used aliexpress:


    I definitely do not recommend this brand as my alternator tool doesn't actual fit in there...the socket was slightly too big (you could use a hammer and tap it in, but then you won't be able to get it out). I was not able to tighten the pulley as much as I like, but it should be fine as it will get tighter due to the rotation and the direction of the threads...I hope. But the pulley does work quite well. Noticeably smoother shifts.


    Thank you Tolsen!

  5. Things were slow at work, took the day off early and decided to attempt replacing the front motor mounts that has been sitting on my shelf for a few weeks - the rear left and right went in as soon as I got them from Eddy.


    These were MB OEM mounts:

    Front engine mount - 0003077V010000000

    Rear Left transmission mount - 0005810V003000000

    Rear Right engine mount - 0003144V05000000


    The front mount was a pain to get at. Followed evilution's guide for the most part. The alternator shield was removed as well as the lower IC shroud. The OEM engine block heater had to be removed. The main bolt and nut supporting the centre of front mount was removed with a 17mm wrench on both side (ratcheting ones make life a lot smoother). The top 2 bolts holding the mount were removed with a 11mm ratcheting wrench even though they were torx head. The front of the engine was supported with a scissor jack. I also inserted the bolt from the p/s side during reassembly as CANMAN suggested in his alternator R&R wiki.



    The bottom was the old mount and the top is new - noticed that they're slightly different!



    Problem found! I noticed that under hard acceleration (especially when turning) I had a sewing machine type sound - the engine also moves a lot when pushing and pulling by hand. There were also sounds of knocking when engine is shuts off.


    The whole ordeal took me about 1.5hrs on the ground without a lift. The car was raised with oil change ramps. Hope this info will come in handy for someone :)



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  6. The starter is controlled by the ECM/SAM rather than directly from the ignition switch...this is why you're able to use STAR to crank when doing diagnostic tests.


    This is interesting because I've seen a few examples of where the ECM/SAM over cranks under some situations. Not an issue with the ignition switch or starter. The best guess is that the ECM is not seeing the engine rpm or bump in voltage from the alternator and thinks it needs to keep cranking therefore sending the 12v to the starter signal wire. I've never gotten a chance to find out where the problem lies unfortunately.

  7. Thinking of selling my MBSTAR Compact 3 Setup and upgrading to a SDConnect C4 as I really hate all the cables that's involved on my C3.



    - Compact 3 MUX includes OBD2 adaptor and serial connection

    - StarTec Serial to USB adaptor (allows you to run from an USB port rather than using an older laptop with serial)

    - 128gig USB 3.0 with a copy of MBSTAR 11.2012 (Has WIS, but for some reason, doesn't have the 450 materials, but does have 451...can try to get it working, but will need sometime to figure it out).

    - Carrying case


    The setup runs on VMWare...if you have a Mac, I can give you my current VMWare program, I don't have PC VMWare. The DAS has the blacklist fix, and TAN bypass fix done already, but I also have a TAN generator on there as well. Feel free to pm me if you have any questions. 


    I'm asking $300.



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  8. Took Red Pxl for a drive to Drumheller today...ran into some “fluttering” noise after a quick stop in Lacombe. SG2 revealed that the noise seems to be in sync with my boost. Drove to Red Deer anyways thinking that the turbo is probably it’s last leg even though it’s pretty new.


    In the princess auto parking lot, checked the engine sign of anything out of ordinary. Checked the oil level...and it was way over the full line!! I’ve made a rookie mistake!! After years of warning others not to go past 3/4 on the dipstick, I’ve accidentally overfilled a lot! Not sure how that happened as I usually double check when I change my oil. Went into PA and picked up a new fluid extractor and pulled out ~300mL. With the oil at 3/4 now, the noise went away. Idiot!


    Boosted up to 17.3psi going up the hill on hwy56 leaving Drumheller.

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  9. Finally got my engine mounts from Eddy....(3.5 weeks!!)


    Anyways, swapped the 2 rear mounts right away and OMG, I'm not in a massage chair anymore! If anybody is thinking of adding polyurethane to their engine mounts, my advise is a definitely NO! Not worth it. Also turned up the turbo waste gate another turn and hope to get 16.7psi while the bumper was off. Will need to do an oil change tomorrow...had to give up working on Red Pxl tonight cause it was 30C in the sun.

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  10. If you want it to work independent of the headlights, then you’ll need your own wiring. You can still use your factor momentary switch. Will have to pick up a 12v flip/flop bistable latching module or rig one up yourself using a 555 timer.


    the wiring for the switch is most likely for backlight pwr/ground and the other 2 wires are essentially for the momentary switch