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Posts posted by stickman007

  1. So decided to put some more work into my C1...

    Recharged the A/C - was weird as it never loss charge for the last 2 years and then all of a sudden, no A/C after sitting outside for 2 months. Previously it had always been in the garage while it sat over winter.

    Thanks to @bmwmilos, no more knocking sound under high rpm hard acceleration! Resealled the HP fuel pump. No ripped orings noted, but they felt old and hard and most likely caused the internal leakage.

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  2. Thanks for all the promo! @Willys, guess I'll have to pay for this somehow? lol


    Injector bolt, copper washer is cheap from the dealer. I do have a diesel compression tester here that you can borrow if you ever get the chance to come up this way. I also have a STAR system on the way from Aliexpress, (should've been here over 2 months ago, but hasn't shown up yet - my last system was stolen right out of my garage!) I might also have a contact that might be interested in selling his "Bilgladstone" design hitch if you're interested. IHMO, like the others have mentioned, building one yourself is probably best. Let me know if you need any help.


    Good Luck!



  3. So a local smart car owner came by with a wiper linkage issue. The driver side plastic linkage for the arm (whatever u guys call it) broke off because the shaft was seized. Was able to remove the shaft from the linkage after working it with penetrating oil and a little bit of heat for a few days.


    Cleaned everything up, super glued the linkage and wrapped it with epoxy repair tape.


    Anybody else tried repairing them...does it last?


    After reassembly, anti-seize were added and new o-rings were replaced. Everything seems to be working now.


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  4. I don't think I was the 1st to buy a Chinese turbo...a few guys here already tried it...but since there were a few different vendor, I think this guy haven't given us grief other than missing the lower part of the body but he sent it later. From what i've gathered, they can fail around 10-30k due to sub OEM metallurgy...hopefully not, but then again, it was dirt cheap.


    I have about 10k on this leaks (fingers crossed...yet). I took a road trip to BC and back with it last summer.


    Good luck!



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  5. So....after letting this project sit on the back burner for over a year now, I got renewed motivation from another member that pushed me to keep playing with tuning.


    I finally located the "string" (in post#1) starting at 77B4E. I was able to edit the 001 to 000 which from my research means that the ECU no longer looks for the EGR valve - should not set DTC even if the valve is disconnected. I was able to export WinOLS to binary and found a sketchy checksum editor. After all new KWP2000+ smoked!! Not sure why, but it did the same thing as my 1st KWP2000+...plug in the car, smoke comes out of the unit.


    Now here's the good news...or bad news, depending on your position. Is there anybody out there with a working KWP2000+ that is willing to test my EGR deleted map?


    The test map is a stock map with EGR deleted. IF the map tested good. I will post the instructions on how to tune out your EGR for free! (or free will donations back to CsC).


    Any brave soul that wishes to test this please pm me....or why the hell did my KWP is smoking...




    PS. My whole computer room stinks of burnt electronics...arrrgh





  6. Kind'a hard to t/s with a generic complaint.


    The emission "ready/not ready" system is to prevent people from deleting codes right before the smog test. Usually it entails driving the vehicle for some distance so that ECU recognize that the emission system all good for a period of time/distance. If it stays "not ready," that either means that you have a communication issue between the modules, or whatever emission DTC is back (not all of them will log a code). Either way, more information is require to even remotely suggest where to start. Symptoms?


    Most code readers will not care if its a grey VIN or not since the OBDII protocol is universal standard. It may not read specific manufacture codes, but at least something will show up if its emission related. If you can't connect, potentially you have a communication issue which maybe why your scanner is asking for a VIN to begin with.



  7. Due to the COVID-19 social isolation thingy that's going on now...won't be able to get our PAL.


    Wife and I will be adopting a dog this week! Security cameras are finally setup. Hope this will be the end of it all...thanks for all the supporting comments and making me laugh during this stressful episode. Always can count on CsC members for support!



  8. Mods like this will not be for’ll be one of those “just because I can” kind’a modifications. There’s no benefits to a stand-alone ECU to our little engine that I can think of. The only reason to tune out the transmission and defeat immobilizer is to run the engine for different applications. I’ve seen people use the OM660 engine anywhere from a motorcycle to airplane motor.

    The so-called electrical problems on the Fortwos aren’t actually that bad IMHO.

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  9. @Willys Not too difficult if u have the right tools. This is a common rail engine, so at minimum you’ll need an ecu (aftermarket standalone, or the original edc15). If you’re using the original Bosch edc15, then you’ll need to edit the map to take out the transmission and defeat the immobilizer (most likely what it is communicating to the SAM/cluster). Other than that, I’m not sure you’ll need anything else to run.

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  10. Thanks for love guys, but I’m just another Smartie fruitcake :)


    No real need to swap an entire combo, at least just most cases, the SAM can be repaired as Nigel and Willys have pointed out. Start a thread and post your symptoms.


    If and when you do need someone with a STAR system, make a list of things to do all at once to make the trip worth while.



  11. I conformal coat mine...a bit of work, but totally worth it. I think the evilution site has instructions on drilling drainage holes in the SAM plastic case to prevent water pooling.


    I do have a cluster/ecu set...but no Key fob. A new fob can be ordered online cheap and easily coded by somebody with a STAR or equivalent system. PM me if you’re interested. The ecu has the smart142 tune on it.



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