stickman007

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Posts posted by stickman007


  1. I've done many cross Canada trip over the years but this is the first with a smart. Williams Lake, BC to Toronto, ON. Hope to meet some CsC members along the way!Day 1:Left WL around 10am this morning. Super nice day, but a bit windy.post-11642-1375162411_thumb.jpgpost-11642-1375162396_thumb.jpgpost-11642-1375162384_thumb.jpgpost-11642-1375162374_thumb.jpgpost-11642-1375162588_thumb.jpgPizzaHut Pizza in Jasperpost-11642-1375162597_thumb.jpgpost-11642-1375162609_thumb.jpgpost-11642-1375162619_thumb.jpgMade it to Edmonton at 11pmHopefully make it to somewhere in Manitoba tomorrow night!Izzy


  2. Thanks Costal Steve, exactly what I was looking for!I had Glenn's remap on my cabrio (couldn't catch Eddy's sale and no time to make the trip down anyways)Currently I run stock on my coupe as my KWP2000 fried before I could pull the map off the cabrioI'm hoping to get Glenn to remap my coupe when I'm out in ON at the end of this month during my roadtrip out east, but it would be nice to have a bit more power on my drive out there. I saw it on EBay for about $200 with shipping, so just wondering if its worth a try.I think I'm going to go for it...I have my STAR with me, so if I go into limp, I can just reset it right there on the spot :)Thanks again for your input!Izzy


  3. Changed oil with Total Quartz 9000 5w40 with Liqui Moly MOS2 Anti Friction Engine Treatment. Also changed transmission fluid with Dura Drive MV Synthetic ATF.Might be the placebo effect, but I think my engine is running quieter, much less chain noise. Got to use a friend's hoist (Mikasa Performance in Red Deer).


  4. [i am in a salt belt but I suspect the actuator is probably ok. I'm going to have it pulled off and check its operation and look at the shift fork contact point to verify if it is punched through or not. Do you know if it possible to test the actuator for proper operation when it is off the vehicle?

    There's a specific function test on DAS that requires the removal of the actuator...(test for full range movement), but don't do it yourself without DAS!

  5. Hi guys,I only have about 3 more left...After they're gone, I will have to order pars again, and that'll take 2-3wks. When soldering in, leave wire #5 last if possible or unhook the battery just incase.I've tested every single one of them, and they all worked before coating it with epoxy, but if it fails, please send me your old one and I'll send you a new one - I want to warranty my work (~6months)All who have sent me money, the emulators have been sent. I did not include instructions, but wire #4 is blue matching to the harness. I will post a detail pic with wire numbers soon.Izzy


  6. Lol...I'm familiar with Ohmns law! But thanks on the feedback...we should continue and build something, another few months and our butts will be freezing again! Currently I'm focused on EGR emulators and the no slam module, I will start building the no slam pretty soon. Keep me posted on the development! I would buy one from you if you get a working one!Izzy


  7. Welcome to the club!Before you go ahead and buy a STAR system, do some research! There are a few forums out there such as mhhauto.com and auto-professional.co.uk that will save you a lot of headaches. Furthermore, you can actually install Xentry/DAS/WIS/EPC/ASRA yourself and buy the multiplexer. The systems that you buy on online usually are plague with stability problems or super slow. Good luck!Izzy


  8. I removed the EGR heat exchanger and blocked the line from the turbo. Like KurtMan, I find no performance gained, just less hoses back and forth in the engine compartment.Interesting to note that I did find my warm up time improved. While removing the heat exchanger, I deleted about 2-3ft of coolant hoses - around 350mL less coolant. May attribute to faster warm up time for me?