stickman007

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Posts posted by stickman007


  1. Yes...the engine won’t know the difference.

     

    Remember, all the electronics has to be a set to be trouble free. There are companies that can “virginize” these SAM...or code everything as a set for you. I can only clone from an existing setup. I’ve never used their services, but u might want to give them a shout and see...might end up saving you time and a lot of work from swapping the entire engine setup.

     

    if you don’t care about the mileage issue, just install the used SAM, and get somebody with STAR to initialize it. I think it’ll flash the mileage and or log a code in the ecu...but the car will run. You’ll need to recode all your keys I believe.

     

     


  2. Worked on something that was bothering me on my trip back. Every time I got up to highway speed, there's a annoying rattle sound that was coming from the driver door. After removing the inner panel, I suspect that its the door latch cable that is the culprit. Put some double sided foam tape on the cable where I think its making contact - Hope this will do it! Still haven't had time to register the car yet, so can't test it out.

     

    Crawled underneath and removed the front under tray to inspect the power steering rack...looks brand new in there!

     

    IMG_3344.jpgIMG_3345.JPGIMG_3346.JPG

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  3. If you put an used SAM into your parts car, unless it its new (unpaired), it will have messed up mileage count - but the car will run. Theoretically, it is possible to match that by hacking the hex dump of the SAM memory chip, but since nobody knows the map definitions, its a dead end - at least outside of my abilities.

     

    You could clone your working set: SAM, Cluster, ECU. Since both cars are 06, your ESP should communicate without any issues. But you'll need a cloning equipment, and STAR to calibrate everything in the end.


  4. The ECU is responsible for signalling the injectors. You can try to see if you are getting any signal to any of the injectors. The crank position sensor informs the ECU the timing. 

     

    ECU is on the side of the airbox. The crank position sensor is located on the top side of bell housing besides the intercooler and under high pressure fuel pump.  Good luck!


  5. Yes it is possible to clone the SAM. Instructions are on evilution...I've personally have done it successfully.

     

    If you plan to do any swapping, the best way to do it is to swap everything as a set: SAM, Cluster, ECU, lock cylinder...but you will still need to do calibrations in the end. 05/06 cars have different ABS/ESP controller, so it will not communicate if the 2 cars have different setup.

     

    3-bar is a bit vague...do u have access to a decent obd2 scanner or MBSTAR? Maybe more clues if you can find the specific MILs?


  6. Just now, Willys said:

    ...What broke..lol

     

     

    You spirit? 

     

    Don't worry, I'm in my 30s, and I drive like grandma too! My old cdi got 3.8L/100km driving across Canada...but Red Pxl is only getting ~5L/100km so far on my trip back.

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  7. I was definitely not very rational when I bought my 1st Smart....didn't think the Canada1 was either! Hahahaha

     

    I thought it was cool...and I needed a hobby.

     

    @Willys the plan was to have a dash cam all along...just didn't think I'll need it that quickly. I have 1 on my GLI and man, I can easily have my own youtube channel on "the brave and skilled drivers of AB"

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  8. @MikeT Luckily nothing was damaged...no contact, but I would say it was damn close. After the incident, he took off driving like a maniac, but I do have a picture of his license plate on my phone.

     

    The engine is actually in very good shape. The timing chain was tight, no visible fuel leak on the high pressure pump, and all the hoses look. I still haven't try looking for that exhaust leak squeak yet...its usually the connection between the turbo and EGR cooler - very tough location. Not a big issue. Once I sort out what I want to do with the EGR, then I'll fix the squeak...its usually gone after warm up anyways.

     


  9. The 4th Canada1's nickname will remain Red Pxl...@Smartzuum, were you the one that named the car?

     

    Anyways, I thought I'll create a thread sharing my adventures and journey with Red Pxl.

     

    She made it home with my wife and I late Sunday night without a hitch...though we almost got backed into by a careless driver in Valmount, BC - of course, AB plated driver.

     

    Took the rear bumper, crash bar, x-frame off... Took awhile, but finally cleaned the engine and turbo area and also replaced the TIK/turbo seal. Put everything back together and took some pics :)

     

    (my tiny garage)

    IMG_3325.jpg

    IMG_3327.jpg

    IMG_3326.jpg

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  10. Its me!

     

    The Canada1 got a quick car wash today to at least get all the bugs off. Bumper and muffler came off to clean up some of the oil crud build up. The upper EGR hose was leaking at the manifold and leaked oil all over the engine, but not enough to drip on to the ground. A closer check revealed that the hose was not cracked or broken...so maybe it was just a loose clamp. There was also a lot of oil around the turbo area, so maybe the turbo TIK seal needs to be replaced? Time will tell - the car did not burn any oil though...dip stick didn't drop before and after the trip.

     

    Will modify the original 30pin iPod cradle to fit the new iPhone cable sometime this week. Maybe draft the design on CAD so that everyone can print or have one made?

     

    Love the car to pieces...Thank you Keith!

     

     

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  11. Wow, what a whirlwind weekend!

     

    Friday:

    Left the house at 4:45am to catch the flight to Abbotsford. Met up with Keith to take his Canada1 away from him! Drove to Hope, BC with my wife to check out the Othello Tunnels. Drove back and help Keith check out and eventually put on his Strikeline.

     

    Saturday:

    Drove to the Vancouver Aquarium...suddenly got sick with the stomach flu. Limp the rest of the day so not to spoil my wife's 1st trip to Stanley Park. Met up with some old friends and drove down to Maple Falls across the boarder.

     

    Sunday:

    Left Abbotsford at 6:30am. Almost got T-bonded in a parking lot by a carless AB driver in Valmount. Didn't puke the entire trip back!

     

    The Canada1 drove as expected. Got a lot of curious looks on the highway. Having cruise control is amazing!


  12. I managed to hit 615km once a few years back when I drove to from Edmonton to Williams Lake. I had 0L on the dash when I pulled into the gas station. It wasn't done on purpose, I forgot that some gas stations don't open on statutory holidays and it was was in the middle of the night. Rather not try that again...our in-tank lift pump uses fuel for cooling.


  13. Remove the SAM, make note of where everything is plugged in including fuses!

     

    - Open up the case (a few screw and plastic tabs)

    - Be careful not to damage the ribbon as it is fragile

    - Locate N11-3 and clean up the area with contact cleaner and or with a tooth brush

    - Solder the wires you wish to bypass directly on the PCB

    - Drill a hole at a convenient location

    - Run the wire(s) through, and reassemble everything

    - You could either solder the wires directly to the corresponding wires on the harness, or you can purchase pins/connectors to make your own (recommended).

     

    SAM pinout and removal instructions can be also be found on either evilution or fq101 should u need more guidance.

     

    Good reading before you start: 

     

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  14. Power goes directly to the motor after the last relay...I don't think there's any wires that goes to the SAM for windows.

     

    Yes, eliminating the 1st relay would save a bit of complexity, but how would the the windows down be powered/triggered? (I still need to do some testing - I just assumed that the door switch grounds whenever the door is closed...it could easily be the other way around). Constant power to the 555 timer circuit would not draw much amperage...

     

    I am looking at maybe learning raspberry pi or look into PIC micro controllers...

     

    I found the original no-slam circuit in my tool box yesterday. It was not made by MDC, it was pinhead that made it - has his email on it. His circuit does seem to use a micro controller. There's a chip that has 14 pins on it that I can't identify.

     


  15. No-Slam Circuit v1.jpg

     

    I'm sure some of the relays can be eliminated with transistors, but I'm not sure how to do it properly. Diodes and fuses will probably be needed in a few places.

    I only did the windows up side...windows down will be exactly the same, but on the 87 pin on the 1st relay.

     

    Edit: made a mistake on R10k near pin 7 on the 555 timer...should be R1k (otherwise it will output for 5s instead of 0.5s)