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Everything posted by airbak2

  1. My smart was having trouble starting when the engine was cold or left for about 1hr or so. Didn't matter what outside temp was plugged in or not. It would cough and sputter, sometimes stall. When it does start there is more smoke, sounds like not all cylinders are firing then it sounds normal in a few seconds. Also a engine surge up and down until the alternator puts a small load on the engine and that does stop. Has not stalled in traffic ever. 131K on it now. I have changed the following. Fuel filter Glow plugs Ran sea foam through the fuel lots of times. I have blanked out the EGR with the method of turning the valve 180 degrees to block the exhaust gas/carbon from ever clogging again. So I just replaced the injectors yesterday... I was very happy it started fine all day after sitting. No idle surge. Seemed to pull RPM's way better. HAPPY HAPPY So this morning its about +5 C. Hit the start after the glow plug light went out and it coughed and sputtered to start. Not happy again Any ideas what else may need to be replaced ??? Oh and the only code I have seen was the EGR code nothing else. Since I blanked the EGR out that never comes up anymore. Thanks I love this forum... Garth
  2. Hello.. No i have not fixed this. Mercedes said it has low compression one cylinder. White smoke on start is weak exhaust valve. So the valve needs to be replaced. I have been driving it when its warm up hear. I have to plug it in at about -1C. Or it real hard to start... I really cycle the glow plugs before i try to start it.. like 10 times.. 150K on it now.. need shocks all round now.... thx Airbak2
  3. Great pick loose.. the big hole in the middle would be the injector right ? The smaller hole is the glow plug. You can kind of see the angle by the hole I guess. Would it be pointing at the intake valve side i would think ? Wonder how much of the glow plug actually goes into the cylinder ? Cant be much ? With some reaming the glow plugs bore and Tolsens say don’t stick anything down into the combustion chamber not sure what to think anymore
  4. Well i would think not as well.. i am confused ?? Honest it bottoms out and when i push it depresses and pushes back like a pen does when you press it up and down but not a whole lot... and its the same on all cylinders... i was searching for a schematic of the cylinder but i hav had no luck... my smart is from canada. Not sure it that makes a difference at all .. where r u from loose ?
  5. I don’t think so. The dowl was not very long and could not bend like you say.. being that i bottomed out the same distant in tells me it couldn’t be the piston. And really the pressure to push that spring was less than the recoil of a pen spring when you push it down.. has me baffled as to what that could be... I don’t have a detailed schematic of what the cylinder looks like relating to the glow plug valves and piston .. anyone got one.. maybe there is some difference for the Canadian smart CDI I don’t know.. getting frustrated. I am going from 100 bucks a month for fuel for smarty to 400 now cause i gotta drive my truck to work THanks Loose Has anyone changed a valve in there smart
  6. Ok so it was finally warm enuff to take the glow plugs out.. this would be the 3rd time they have been out over a 2 month period. They came out easy.. i tested them and they glow read from the tip first. I rigged up a tube off my shop vac to suck out any carbon... Hardly anything. Looked clean from what i could see. I had a small wood dowl that i slid down the chamber. I bottomed out early thinking it was the piston. I pushed it a bit and it felt like a spring would push back about a 8th of a inch.. all three cylinders were like that... anyway i think i am ruling out the carbon and glow plug thing. Must be a leaky exhaust valve... hard to start when engine is cold... with white smoke after it fires up. but runs like a champ on the highway. Thinking if it was rings i would have smoke all the time Question what would that be ? Anyone change a valve in a smarty ? thx
  7. Ok picked up my smarty from MB today.. Finally got to talk to the master tech mechanic today. The first tech reported 250PSI and above on all cylinders. No error codes but deemed fuel and filter were the issue. Let them drain fuel and change the filter. Even though i had changed it only this summer. They did wash my car. So that cost me 600CDN. Car still had cold start issues. I bitched a bit and they took it back for a FREE diagnostic. However they replaced my door latches on a recall. Cost me nothing but i bet MB paid them dearly.. so that paid for my free diagnostic no doubt So master tech redid the compression #1 350psi #2 330 #3 200. No error codes.. I new that i have a reader. I asked him if they have some MB reader that goes beyond ones i can buy.. He said no.. He believes its the exhaust valve leaking fuel into the #3 cylinder causing white smoke and the cold start. He said #3 receives the most fuel on startup, i forget the reason why. I asked him if they noticed any carbon on the glow plugs or check the bore at all. They had them in and out 2times after all ...Of course they didn’t but he made it sound like the plugs looked clean.. I still want to look for my self before i decide if i wanna fix the valve.. Cant believe that 2 guys come up with 2 different compression readings. I just am not convinced quite yet that its compression. Please add any comments... Thanks Tolsen and Loose for chiming in... Love this site.. Thx
  8. Interesting.. Easy enuff to try.. When i changed my injectors there was some carbon at the bottom... got my shop vac nozzle to suck stuff out but.. it ran better for a brief time .. Question so how far did you drill in .. I guess you don’t want to hit the piston.. maybe the angle is right so you cant touch it.. gotta check that i think.. but it makes sense that if its carboned up around the glow plug it wont get hot for ignition. They had my glow plugs in and out twice in 1 month would think they would look at that too.. I get white smoke at start up then u cant tell its running hardly no smoke at idle.. Thx a lot..
  9. So i took my smart back to MB for a FREE diagnostic. Previously they told me that all cylinders were 250PSI and up... They had it in the shop for 4 days!!!! They said that oh when their master tech checked the compression again he found that one of the glow plugs was loose and thats why it had a cold start well that was not the case. Now he says one of the cylinders is at 200 psi and that is why it has a cold start issue... I mentioned sensors and they said their unit did not find any codes blah blah blah... Can anyone tell me what the normal compression is ? What would the minimum be before there are issues? LIke i said. Once it is started it purrs like a kitten. I Cruze at 120 all the time and 130 to 135 at times absolute rock solid, no smoking... could it be a blocked sensor on the rail or speed sensor.. what you guys think... thanks a lot for any info..
  10. I replaced the alternator last summer.. actuallyhad to do that twice in less than a year. The first one was factory defect. Hell of a tuff job anyway ... Maybe i have the belt to tight ? What you think Tolsen.. Thanks for your help ... Appreciated ..
  11. I don't believe its a fuel issue.. Melville Saskatchewan.. i had my 06 CDI since 2011with 40K. I now have 132K on her.. Got my fuel from the same place almost entirely from the same place .. always the same company... like i said the refinery is up the road. The station is new with high volume going through there. The shell uses bio diesel which i guess is bad for small engines. So only since last fall has my car had these cold start issues.. I changed glow plugs, injectors, fuel filter. I thought letting MB go through it they would find it.. i am at a loss . ANy other ideas would be appreciated thx ...
  12. I don't believe its a fuel issue.. Melville Saskatchewan.. i had my 06 CDI since 2011with 40K. I now have 132K on her.. Got my fuel from the same place almost entirely from the same place .. always the same company... like i said the refinery is up the road. The station is new with high volume going through there. The shell uses bio diesel which i guess is bad for small engines. So only since last fall has my car had these cold start issues.. I changed glow plugs, injectors, fuel filter. I thought letting MB go through it they would find it.. i am at a loss . ANy other ideas would be appreciated thx ...
  13. So I made a trip to MB to see if they could fix my cold start issue. They checked the battery ...ok Starter draw 57 amps ...ok checked for injector leaks... ok checked compression ...over 250 on all ..ok They decided it was a fuel issue. Changed the filter that they thought looked old. I changed it in spring.. ? But whatever. Doesn't take long for them to look old and rusty anyway i found. They drained the fuel from the system and tank. Purged fuel system. So 90 bucks for the filter and 500 bucks labour So -7 this am not plugged in went to start it. It did start but still has trouble. It did not stall while starting.. which it was doing when the temp was above 0. They asked me where i get my fuel. I get it from the Co-op which gets there fuel from the Co-op upgrader 2hours from where i live. The gas station is new as well. I have used sea foam in the past but not since i changed the injectors. They said don't use that anymore and get fuel from some where else. One would think if the diesel was bad at the coop then there would be a lot of unhappy people. It is a very high volume gas station so the fuel there is definently not old.. Any thoughts on this .. Thanks everyone..
  14. Yes no Bio-Diesel and most definitely not third world either ... Co-op Diesel from our canadian refinery up the road. If the engine is HOT like immediate or 15 minutes has passed it starts like a top... However 30 minutes it coughs and sputters and sometimes times out, but does start. Thank you all so much for responding... I want to add It wants to start and sounds like it is just about too. Not a turning over and over and no firing. I hate the thought of injectors they are a lot of money
  15. My 06 Smart CDI is having trouble starting when engine is cold no matter what the outside temp is... plugged in or not. Almost seems to start better when its colder -10C or colder ?? Takes a few times to finally start but the very odd time it will fire up not to bad. Its getting worse too.... It kinda smokes a wee bit, runs a bit rough, but seems to run perfect after a minute or 2. There is a idle surge that happens as well 900RPM down to 700RPM and back up again... not all the time but often enough. Once I start driving she runs perfect. I have a 15 min commute and cruze at 120k. Turn it off hot .. and start it again with no problems... fires right up on 1 crank. The idle surge will often come up as I mentioned. Leave it for 20 and it has a hard time starting all over again.. I have changed the glow plugs, and fuel filter as well as ran a lot of fuel additive with no luck. Fuel pump runs before start up as well. I pulled the EGR valve cartridge out and cleaned it.. but put it in as suggested to block the exhaust gas from coming through. I have looked through the forums but can not find anything specific. Did come across a suggestion that could be a air leak somewhere, so when its cold the leak would be larger than when it is hot, which is why the good hot starts... Any suggestions ... Thank You...
  16. So far so good for me.. no code popping up
  17. 2006 Smart fortwo CDI. I pulled the valve cartridge from mine and it was not very hard to do at all. I did not us a fancy tool to loosen it. I sprayed WD40 around the valve cartridge after the solenoid was removed, and used a flat screw driver to move it back and forth to loosen it. Then I used vice grips to pull it out a bit and the worked it completely out. I cleaned the valve so it moved freely put it in to block the gases as suggested. Not a big job. The hard part was the one Allen nut that you cannot see very well so its feeling around till you finally get the allen key in the nut... If you are getting the engine code now moving it 180 degrees wont make it go away cause the solenoid cannot move the valve. You have to clean it first. Then insert it in at 180 degrees as suggested.
  18. I hav used sea foam in my cdi. I get a consistent 4 liter per hundo k at about 105k per hr. I picked up my cdi from a ol chap who ran it about 10k a day every once in a while. It was not running very well. Sea foam has made my smarty purr. I use it in all my 2 stroke 4 stroke engines. Seafoam improves performance no doubt. It was developednbybthe us military. I hav heard small engine repair shops use it first and charge peeps 50 buks saying yer carb was plugged. It works. I don't car want its made of. Beer is yeast water and sugar lol. Cheers
  19. Hello ... I just picked up my smarty and have the EGR problem as well. I see these posts are from last year but would I be able to get a hold of one of these EGR replacement pipes :)thx