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About dguy

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    Beckwith Township, ON
  1. Do not attempt to connect a standard vacuum gauge or (gasoline) fuel pressure gauge set to the injector rail. Common rail diesel pressure is generally 100 bar or higher, which is well outside the range of those tools.
  2. Sounds like a compression test is in order.
  3. I would think that calling a tow company which also provides lock-out services would be an option?
  4. I'd wager that the writers and/or editors of the owner's manual may have had "chicken brains" as well. From the above: "...use the tachometer to judge the level of fuel in the tank."
  5. So the "trigger point" then lies somewhere between 6 rev/km and 39 rev/km. 145/65 front + 175/55 rear (stock 450): rear turns 3 revolutions per km less than front 155/60 front + 175/55 rear (stock 451): rear turns 6 revolutions per km less than front 155/60 front + 175/65 rear: rear turns 39 revolutions per km less than front 155/60 front + 165/60 rear: rear turns 12 revolutions per km less than front Which side of the border the 12 rev/km combination is on, is the question. The answer to which may be buy-it-and-try-it.
  6. Thanks, that's a similar calculator to what I used earlier to determine the revolutions per km change. Not that I would expect them to, but neither calculator answers the question of at what point a deviation from the OE tire sizes will confuse the ESP/ABS system. As for the width change vs. potential handling issues, it's a double-edged sword. With a wider (winter) tire comes a greater chance of floating on top of snow or slush rather than slicing through it and making ground contact.
  7. G'day, Does anyone know if pairing 165/60 rear tires against the OE 155/60 front will cause undesired ESP/ABS intervention? Last season's Hakkapeliitta R2 fronts are in great shape, but the mystery brand rears are done and Nokian does not provide a the OE 175/55 rear tire. 165/60 rear should turn approximately 12 revolutions per km less than the fronts, which is double that of the OE 175/55 rear. Whether or not that will trip the nanny system, I have no idea. Hopefully someone out there has tried this combination and has some feedback to share.
  8. The cups which you are referring to are part of the flex pipe. Shapes & sizes vary, but I have never before seen a flex pipe which isn't sold in this format:
  9. Define "cheap". The flex pipe which just failed was from CTC, and in the $40 range if my memory is working. I replaced it with a pipe from NAPA on the weekend, which appears to be a re-branded Walker part. Less expensive than its CTC counterpart, slightly different construction. Only time will tell...
  10. That was the missing piece, thanks. The supplied installation instructions used more pictograms than words, none of which (to my eyes, at least) indicated that this component also had to be replaced with new or salvaged from the old shocks.
  11. Thanks Tolsen, there is one key difference between what that video demonstrates and how my work went. In the video, the dust shields which were transferred on to the KYBs appear to have a beefier top plate than the shields which were supplied with the Bilsteins. If the Bilsteins had a taller top plate on the shield, or a bushing installed between the top plate and the frame my issue would be solved. I'll have to look at the old shocks again, perhaps there is some material on their shields which needs to be transferred to the new shocks but I don't remember noticing anything.
  12. G'day, Has anyone who has installed Bilstein B4 OE Replacement rear shocks (24-126793) on a 451 run in to fitment issues? Other than the requirement to re-use the upper nut, washer, and bushing from the original shocks they appear to be a drop-in replacement, however this was not the case for the set which I installed on the weekend. When the upper nut is tightened down the "hat" at the top of the dust shield does not sit firmly in the frame recess unless the suspension remains loaded. There is about 3-5mm of free play at the top of the shock and a significant rattle each time the suspension unloads & re-compresses.
  13. 28,000km later, color me unimpressed. The protective braid on the replacement flex pipe has fully rotted away, and the inner pipe has cracked just above where it transitions to the muffler's rigid pipe.
  14. Slight asides.... "Dog turd repair kits"... Who comes up with this crap? It sounds more like a kit for repairing broken dog poop rather than for plugging a punctured tire. Secondly, for those of you who do it, I can't imagine being comfortable in the car with a front wheel jammed behind the seat! I'm certainly not NBA material with respect to height, but I would need either a steering wheel which has a flat lower section, a pry bar, new knees, or a combination thereof if I couldn't run the seat fully rearward before entering or exiting the car.
  15. ...because most of the accessories are operated via the SAM rather than being connected directly to their respective controls. If the feature hasn't been turned on in the SAM, it won't know how to react when it detects that a switch has been operated.