dguy

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About dguy

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    Beckwith Township, ON
  1. Slight asides.... "Dog turd repair kits"... Who comes up with this crap? It sounds more like a kit for repairing broken dog poop rather than for plugging a punctured tire. Secondly, for those of you who do it, I can't imagine being comfortable in the car with a front wheel jammed behind the seat! I'm certainly not NBA material with respect to height, but I would need either a steering wheel which has a flat lower section, a pry bar, new knees, or a combination thereof if I couldn't run the seat fully rearward before entering or exiting the car.
  2. ...because most of the accessories are operated via the SAM rather than being connected directly to their respective controls. If the feature hasn't been turned on in the SAM, it won't know how to react when it detects that a switch has been operated.
  3. Spotted this one last weekend. I wonder what kind of fertilizer would be appropriate...
  4. It has been a while since our 450, but I think that what you're describing is the water-in-fuel warning light. The fuel filter/water separator are under the passenger floor, and by pressure washing the undercarriage you may have forced water or other contaminants in to the senor's connector.
  5. Check for water leaks dribbling down on to the SAM.
  6. The most common causes of tire blow-outs are physical damage and overheating. Is it possible that you are routinely driving on roads with badly degraded right hand wheel tracks, underinflating, and/or overloading the rear tires?
  7. Ha... I guess I should have scrolled up to see your earlier posts, then it would have been obvious. My bad.
  8. Is that year-to-date i.e. the total for the first quarter of 2018, or March 2018 only?
  9. It probably varies a fair bit with where you live or routinely drive. Our Smart vs. Richard Cranium driver encounters are relatively rare (maybe once a month at best), but they almost always involve a good ol' boy in a jacked-up half ton.
  10. Stainless welding gear doesn't appear to be necessary, the muffler and OE flange will weld decently with a mild steel wire or stick. Booneylander and I have both done this, click here for details.
  11. Got it, thanks for the reassurance Huronlad. The direction of pull seems to have been the key - rather than starting at the tail lights as shown in the FQ101 guide, I started at the lower leading edge(near the side skirts). Pulling the panel toward the outside of the chassis freed the first couple of clips with moderate resistance, and the remaining clips were reasonably well behaved. ...and I too will take an occasional wrestling match with "hopeless" over routine dances with a finicky partner. We have put 57,000km on our 2011 since purchasing it and it has for all intents and purposes been a turn-key vehicle since day one. The only thing close to a major repair which it has needed to date has been a rotted-out muffler flex pipe. Compared to our 2005 which, at 62,000km, had a laundry list of failed components and was becoming ever more needy for attention as the odometer climbed.
  12. G'day! I'm attempting to remove the rear panels in order to do some exhaust work. Using FQ101's guide I am at the stage which claims that I should be able to pull the light surrounds away from the chassis "and they should free without a problem", but there is a fair bit of resistance there. Can anyone who has done this before provide any tips or suggestions? I'm leery of breaking things...
  13. I wonder what model she had? I can't for the life of me think of a "detachable cap" on the North American 450 or 451 which might be mistaken for the fuel tank fill port, but leads to the passenger compartment instead.
  14. Thank you, Sir, may I have another? This morning, east Ottawa-ish. http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/ottawa/smart-car-fire-ottawa-1.4442705
  15. I swapped our winter tires on, and for the first time in 30 years of driving experienced less road noise on dry pavement with winters than with summers. Perhaps I should stop cheaping-out on summer rubber...