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About dguy

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    Beckwith Township, ON
  1. It probably varies a fair bit with where you live or routinely drive. Our Smart vs. Richard Cranium driver encounters are relatively rare (maybe once a month at best), but they almost always involve a good ol' boy in a jacked-up half ton.
  2. Stainless welding gear doesn't appear to be necessary, the muffler and OE flange will weld decently with a mild steel wire or stick. Booneylander and I have both done this, click here for details.
  3. Got it, thanks for the reassurance Huronlad. The direction of pull seems to have been the key - rather than starting at the tail lights as shown in the FQ101 guide, I started at the lower leading edge(near the side skirts). Pulling the panel toward the outside of the chassis freed the first couple of clips with moderate resistance, and the remaining clips were reasonably well behaved. ...and I too will take an occasional wrestling match with "hopeless" over routine dances with a finicky partner. We have put 57,000km on our 2011 since purchasing it and it has for all intents and purposes been a turn-key vehicle since day one. The only thing close to a major repair which it has needed to date has been a rotted-out muffler flex pipe. Compared to our 2005 which, at 62,000km, had a laundry list of failed components and was becoming ever more needy for attention as the odometer climbed.
  4. G'day! I'm attempting to remove the rear panels in order to do some exhaust work. Using FQ101's guide I am at the stage which claims that I should be able to pull the light surrounds away from the chassis "and they should free without a problem", but there is a fair bit of resistance there. Can anyone who has done this before provide any tips or suggestions? I'm leery of breaking things...
  5. I wonder what model she had? I can't for the life of me think of a "detachable cap" on the North American 450 or 451 which might be mistaken for the fuel tank fill port, but leads to the passenger compartment instead.
  6. Thank you, Sir, may I have another? This morning, east Ottawa-ish. http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/ottawa/smart-car-fire-ottawa-1.4442705
  7. I swapped our winter tires on, and for the first time in 30 years of driving experienced less road noise on dry pavement with winters than with summers. Perhaps I should stop cheaping-out on summer rubber...
  8. We tend to call ours simply "The Smart" or "The Go Kart". The closest which my wife & I have ever come to naming our vehicles is to refer to my current motorcycle my Italian Mistress from time-to-time.
  9. I ended up going the whole nine yards, as after I got under the car I found that the damage to the flex pipe had worsened since my last look, plus it would have been a bugger to get the welding gun up near the top end of the pipe with all components still in the car. Mild steel flux core wire appears to have fused with both the new flex pipe and the OEM steel nicely. I will say one thing, which is that if I ever have deal with the cat-to-muffler flange bolts again I am going to remove more body panels and the bumper bar. Fitting my hands and a couple of wrenches up in there (from below) to re-attach the system was a "joy" like no other.
  10. Thanks, a successful weld with mild steel is reassuring. On the assumption that the pipes are mostly T304 stainless I was looking at some dual shield flux core wire, but I have only seen it listed in 25lb spools so far and those are approaching the cost of a replacement muffler! I'll see about having a go at tacking the slipping pipe back in to place next weekend, and add replacing it to my to-do list. I have to deal with what looks like two sprag clutch replacements on our bikes so if I can band-aid the Smart for the time being I will.
  11. G'day, Does anyone happen to know what type(s) of metal make up the joint between the muffler's flex pipe and the rigid section just down stream of the manifold flange? At ~90,000km the flex pipe on ours is failing just a bit down stream from the manifold flange. It is no longer affixed to the rigid portion of the pipe, and it can slide back & forth a ways without coming completely free. The resulting noise is not unreasonable (yet), but the failure is allowing the muffler to swing in the hangers and it's slowly bashing a divot out of the rear skirt. I have half a mind to try to tack weld the two sections back together rather than dropping half a grand on a new assembly, but I have no idea what type of wire I would need to use.
  12. What on earth is that green mesh thing over the roof I wonder?
  13. There's not much to it. Make sure that you walk away with a bill of sale which includes: Name & signature of seller Name & signature of buyer Year, Make, Model, VIN of vehicle Purchase price Date of purchase If it's a private sale, you have no QC sales tax to worry about. If you're purchasing it from a (QC) dealer, they may charge you QST. You can request a refund of the tax from Revenu Quebec by filling out & submitting the form found at this link. Registering the vehicle on the Ontario side is pretty much the same song and dance as it is with any other private vehicle transfer. Edited to add: I recommend you get the vehicle's VIN before you commit to purchase, and have a Service Ontario office run it for you & report the branding. QC's vehicle registration may not reflect that the vehicle was previously branded as salvage or irreparable in ON, but it will come up when you try to register it in ON. Vehicles branded as Salvage or Irreparable in ON cannot be plated & put on the road.
  14. I wonder if that can take a bump without the sled and/or lumber becoming an impromptu set of wheelie bars?