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About miker

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    Vancouver Island

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  1. I've been a bit busy lately, but thought I'd update the topic. The problems came back after about 200km. I'm not sure why. I'm going to try re-seating all connectors to the SAM to see if it's something simple. Update: re-seating all connectors appeared to work, or maybe not. I got a couple of 15km drives in to town and then back with everything good, then today on the way back from town it crapped out. Insurance runs out next week and I'm snowbirding south for a bit. I guess when I get back I better start looking at all of the wiring, possibly the ECU, engine ground strap, etc.
  2. I took out the SAM unit and cleaned all solder joints and connections with electrical contact cleaner. While I did this I noticed two things that I also took care of. FIrstly, some idiot (guess who?) used gorilla tape to keep the three bypass wires I'd installed to get around the burned harness for the right side lights and the fuel pump. I replaced this with electrical tape after taking off the excess glue the gorilla tape had left on the pcb. I also noticed that the red cap on the positive lead from the battery to the SAM had gotten itself lost somewhere along the way, so I rectified that as well. After putting everything together, I noticed that hitting the brake before turning the key seemed to activate the instrument cluster. I realized I'd put two connectors in the wrong spot (the add-on power on the side of the SAM). I put them back and everything was ready to test. I just got back from a 40+ km test drive. Not only were there no unexpected losses of power, but the temp is reading a much more reasonable level. It might be a degree or two high, but hard to say for sure. Certainly not the 10+ degree high reading I'd been getting for a few months. Here's hoping this is the end of it for a while.
  3. I got a kid taking an electronics course to do the soldering for me. Everything worked perfectly until recently (see my thread about canbus error) and it seems that taking the SAM apart and cleaning all of the contacts has it back in order again.
  4. No codes on odb2, single bar. Indicates some kind of can bus error.
  5. Ok, my 450 gurus. Once again I have an interesting issue to deal with. I think my little CDI has been waiting for me to retire to exhibit all of these issues, so at least it waited until I have the time to deal with it, right? Anyway, lately while driving our 06 Smart 450 cdi has been just dying on us. Three times at intersections while stopped or close to it, and once while going about 60 km/h. While the single bar is on the dash it won't let us change gears, so we can't put it in neutral and push off to the side. After a short rest it will let us start it back up again. My first instinct is to look in the SAM unit, as I've had to re-wire a few wires around the harness in the past (fuel pump first, then the two lights beside it). The last time was about 6 months ago, if I recall correctly. Another possibly related symptom (and possibly not) is that for a few months the temperature readout in the dash has been about 7-10 degrees too high. Any advice or hints from anyone who's been there, done that?
  6. Turns out it was the rotors. They were badly corroded and replacing them (and the pads) have things back in order. Calipers, although a bit rusty (cleaned them up with a wire brush) still seem ok. Pistons move reasonably freely.
  7. Just finished the passenger side. Very simple now that I know the order to do things. No more lights coming on at 60kph. I still have brake juddering, so I think it's time to check out all four brakes (I suspect it's front passenger side, I know there was a problem with the anti-rattle clip a while back, so I suspect things aren't right there. Might also be time for new calipers, pads, hardware and rotors).
  8. Alex did a good write up on this one that helped me immensely with the same problem (our CDI died the day after we bought it back in I think 2012). The simplest solution is to re-solder that pin as Willy's says, and solder on a wire to it and carefully route it out of the SAM box and bypass the harness so you can attach it directly to the wire going to the fuel pump. Essentially some cheap bugger used a wiring harness that can't handle the current from this (and the headlights really) and it eventually builds up corrosion which increases resistance and heat that fries the solder joint. I eventually re-wired around two of the headlight pins as well. Find somebody with decent soldering skills if you don't have them yourself (I made a mess trying to do it myself, but a friend at work cleaned it up for me).
  9. Great photo. Hope you got her all sorted.
  10. Thanks, Willys. I just came in after resolving the issue. Turns out that you can finesse this all together if you do it in the right order. I had the drive shaft reinstalled, and apparently that prevents the x-frame from moving to match the tie rod. The shaft itself had stretched out a bit as a result of jacking up and down to try to get things to match, so I put it in neutral, then jiggled the shaft until it popped back to a normal length while resting the car on the x-frame about 5" from ground on a big hunk of wood. After the shaft end was out of the hub I noticed that the x-frame and tie rod were much closer. A bit of jacking up under the x-frame got it matched up and I could get the bolt in, then re-insert the shaft, then hook up the strut. So far so good. Now to do the 'easy' side and see if my abs works properly again.
  11. My new reluctor rings came in yesterday and I got on the job more or less today. I'm stuck putting things back together at the moment. For some reason, the tie rod on the driver's side is about an inch from mating up with where it needs to attach and I can't seem to force a match even with the lower strut bolt removed. Is there something I'm missing with this procedure? Evilution merely mentions to reattach it as if it should just be easy. What am I missing? Do I need to take the drive shaft back out of the hub first? Anything else? My head's about to explode here.
  12. The magic smoke left the AC unit long ago. I'm wondering if I can just cut the AC Belt and run without it. I get a squealing noise after replacing the alternator/water pump belt and I'm fairly sure it isn't that any more - but it might be the ac belt and it would be nice to eliminate it as a possible culprit. Noise only lasts for about a block at most and once the car's warmed up it's fine.
  13. Well, the fix on the fuel pump has lasted 6 years, but it's time for me to dive into the SAM again as (as Alex predicted) the headlights are going out. So far it's just the high and low passenger side. I'm hoping this is pins 6 & 8 - right side low and high beams? Hopefully the orientation is from within the car rather than from in front of it facing the rear. Now that I have the SAM out again, there really isn't a lot of room to solder. Here's hoping I can get the soldering done with my eyes 6 years older and hands 6 years less steady.
  14. So my '06 CDI was running a bit rough on start up on cold mornings and I thought I'd order in a code reader off Amazon (with bluetooth so my phone could talk to it). It came up with P0302 code - misfire on cylinder 2. I looked around a bit and read someone suggest Seafoam. The next day I was in Canadian Tire with the wife (there was some big sale on) and hey, there's a stack of Seafoam right there. I picked up a can and over the course of the next couple of weeks fed it into the tank and guess what? The engine started purring again and no more 0302 fault codes. Hopefully using this additive moderately regularly will prevent further issues, but I figured I'd post here on the forum that knows everything about the Smart Car in case I'm missing something. I guess in the Summer I'd better finally figure out how to remove and clean the EGR valve. I should probably order those tools for the belts as well for the next time I have to change em. Just did the alternator belt and it was way harder than any other car I've worked on. Flat head screw driver had to get the job done instead of the easy green tools this time.
  15. GMC28: Sorry, don't have it. Call them, though and they'll find it for you. Francesco: Have them and used em. Unfortunately, I just have basic air tools so no getting in to tight spaces with them. Tolsen: Excellent point regarding reversing the bolts.