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Posts posted by Jeffbeck

  1. Just installed 3 new injectors and the smart runs great! Who would have thought that there would be 6 bad injectors between 2 smarts!I got the injectors from Fred Holms in Vancouver, BC. Great place to deal with! Raj there said that the Canadian diesel is brutal on the high pressure pump and injectors. He said that I should expect 100-150K before the injectors will need replacement again. He suggested using a fuel conditioner to improve lubricant properties of the fuel.Horay! The problem is solved! Will add pics once I am completely done with the repairs :)

  2. Same injectors are used in a large range of diesel cars so not only in our Cdi. Injectors are quickly made unserviceable when removing and refitting them provided the usual cleanliness procedures are not followed. I am not convinced the reported timing gear failures were caused by bad sprockets. More likely lack of lubrication due to owner neglect.

    I suspect the same things... I just wish that the injectors were serviceable. I took out the new (known good injector) and replaced with the best looking injectors I had between the 2 cars. I added a lot of cetane booster and the car started and stayed running (like a stuck egr), but struggled to get up to speed. I then filled the tank up with fresh diesel to dilute the boost/cleaner... the car had a severe lack of power within a block (2x worse than a bad egr). Was able to limp it home, and tomorrow I am going to order 3 new injectors.

  3. I have not found any info on injector tips, they exist as Chinese copies, but nothing from Bosch. That said some forum members have used a specialist in BC to get injectors rebuilt (Fred Holmes) with success, not sure where he is sourcing his parts! I have tried two different Bosch rebuilders in Ontario, there is nothing available from Bosch except remanufactured injectors complete. Still thinking what else it could be, I don't have any common rail manuals yet, everything I have is for the older technology with charts and diagnostics/tests etc. Have you swapped the emc on the air box? Can it be swapped without coding?

    Thanks for all the ideas :). The ECM needs to be coded with the SAM and then with the remote keys. I spoke with Raj and Fred Holmes in BC and he recommended that I replace all injectors because they are very common to all have problems at the same time. I think he is right! I tried the cleaner in the tank and it has gotten better, but the car still runs poorly with very little power. I am surprised that such expensive components are worn out so quickly. Is it typically a 100k service interval for injectors and timing chain/sprockets?

  4. Have you been running on something different to standard diesel?Try a good injector cleaner with your best injectors fitted. I gave mine a treatment last month. Amazing improvement. Zero to sixty mph before was 25 seconds, After less than 15 seconds and no more visible smoke. I used the cheapest injector cleaner I could source. Silver Hook diesel treatment & injector cleaner costing GBP 3.15 per bottle.

    I'll pick up some cleaner and try that out. With the new 1 new injector it will rev to max, but it is slow on the climbing rpm and smokes lots! Not much power either, will barely make the climb up the driveway (which is a lot better than barely running. I am wondering what would take out 3 injectors... Debriefs and soot, or possibly the over compression of the previous engine caused the injector failure....

  5. These injectors can be serviced by two diesel specialists in Aberdeen (Scotland) so there must be many outfits that can do them in Canada. Some diesel specialists will test them for free or for a minor fee so phone and ask.A leakage test is usually sufficient to confirm injector problems. Quick to do and does not require any expensive kits - only three identical small bottles and suitable hoses. I also checked the spray pattern on mine some years ago when I suffered start problems.These injectors are not cheap. Several hundred pounds for a new one and at least a hundred pounds for an exchange injector.

    I have been able to borrow a new injector to replace the wet tipped one and the smart started up and revved up better, but still not right. I just thought that the chances of having six bad injectors between two cars would be close to impossible. I guess I was wrong! If anyone knows where I can buy these injectors please send me a link! On the injectors that I suspect as the worst, they come out of the cylinder wet everytime... and the exhaust smells very rich.Is leakage the most common failure? Has anyone ever done these tests at home before? How do I do them?

  6. Well he did say he has replaced the timing chain and sprockets, but I didn't notice anything about the jet, I wouldn't think the new chain and sprockets have skipped, though they could of course have been installed incorrectly ( but one would hope the person who did the work did it properly).

    Yes, that is correct, the chain and sprockets are new. The oil jet on the tensioner was free of debris when I checked on assembly. I rechecked the timing and it is good.

  7. Jeff,New idea, check to see if your turbo is siezed!Pull off the inlet hose you should be able to spin it with a finger.If turbo is good pull off the muffler/catalytic converter, it could be plugged.Canman

    I put a new turbo on the car as well.... yes, more parts. I was wondering about a blocked intercooler so I have the inlet to intake manifold pipe off currently. I pulled the exhaust pipe off as well and it was the same running feeling.

  8. Thanks again for all the new ideas of checking things. I have a feeling that the parts vehicle I swapped injectors with were no good. All the tests lead me to believe that the injectors are no good. After running it for 15min, I pulled the injectors out and 2 had carbon on the end and were dry. I then swapped them around and the same two injectors were dry with new carbon build up. I tried swapping the other 3 injectors from the parts car, and they came out wet everytime but the car ran a bit better or worse with each one.... Dealer pricing for an injector is an insane $850/ea.... I suspect that just the tips need to be replaced. Does anyone know where the tips can be purchased or a place that is setup to bench test the injectors? I am in Calgary, Alberta, Canada.

  9. NEW INFORMATION!!!I decided to try to keep the car running with by spraying brake clean in the intake when it was about to stall. I was able to nurse it to stay running past the 6-10 seconds then I was able to get it to stay running. I let it warm up to the first bubble then tried to rev it up, but it would start to shake and smoke when I did this. I added more engine load by turning on the seat heaters, defrost and blower motor.... this would practically stall out the engine. I was able to restart the smart, but it still wouldn't allow me to rev it up. The exhaust was thick, my eyes watered terribly. It was like it would begin to misfire as soon as throttle was applied, the best I could get was 12-1500rpm.

  10. We just had our first real snow of the year here (Calgary, Alberta, Canada), so I left the smart to soak in the hot tub. I began thinking about the injection timing, and how that relates to the ECM, which is signaled by the crank sensor. I have seen intermittent crank sensor problems but they typically get better with higher speeds (maybe with a few misses). Anything is possible, so I swapped the crank sensor over with high hopes.... but the same condition persists. Prolonged cranking, rough start, begins to idle normally, accelerator pedal hardly responsive, begins to shake alot then stalls out. I more thing to mention, the exhaust is very smoky at the startup, gets clean at the idle, then gets smokey at the end. Maybe good info, maybe just more confusion.

  11. I think you guys are to quick to change out good parts and components. What was the outcome of low pressure fuel supply checks? Have you confirmed feed pump runs continuously. Any conclusion on the foreign metal bits?Can you graph rail pressure from start until engine stops? Are there any fault codes stored?Injectors will be fine since engine idles well for those short 10 seconds. Since practically everything seems to have been checked, I think the fault will be with feed pump power supply, rail pressure regulator or the engine control unit. Think you can rule out rail pressure sensor. Mine will start and idle normally with that one disconnected.

    Tolsen, You are so right about being too quick on the draw for replacing parts. But its not my fault! ...I was trained as a mechanic at a dealership! :o. LOL!. Which clearly isn't paying off very well!I forgot to mention that it takes many cranks and is difficult to get the car started initially. The metal bits are from the previous fuel pump, the metal housing was bulging on the one side... but was pumping...With the new fuel pump, the low fuel supply is good. 35-40PSI at prime, crank, idle and stalling condition. Once the engine stops, the pressure falls off quickly. The feed is continuous. I don't have access to the scan tool to do a graphing function, but the pressure at cranking it 300BAR, at idle it is 280BAR, the pressure then rapidly drops off as it stalls out. As well, the injector quantity begins to adjust just before it stalls out. However, I noticed that the refresh rate of the information on the scan tool was delayed by approx 1.5-2 seconds (shows 0 rpm for a while even once the car is started.There is only one ecm fault for a glow plug failure (tested #1 as bad), but after fixing, it didn't make a difference to the running issue. I swapped the rail with the regulator and pressure sensor. I installed the engine control unit in another car and the other car ran good.I drained the fuel and got new fuel.I checked the connector on the back of the SAM for the fuel pump (have seen those get burnt and have intermittent problems). My next plan is to swap out the high pressure pump (I have a second smart to steal parts from), but the symptoms don't seem to indicate that as an issue, I just can't see anything else being left to do!

  12. Low pressure feed pump runs continuously when engine runs. Rail pressure at idle is around 235 bar. Rail pressure goes above 300 bar when cranking engine to start. Low pressure supply to high pressure pump should be 2 - 2.5 bar. 3rd pumping element in high pressure pump is enabled during start but disabled at idle. The wee connector on the high pressure pump is for the 3rd pumping element solenoid. Below thread shows the internal workings of high pressure pump:

    Thanks for all the great info!I was thinking that perhaps the 3rd pump is the only thing keeping the car running at startup, then is shut down and the car stalls. is this possible?I also saw posts about injector cleaning, are the injectors able to be disassembled?

  13. So I have tested the low pressure fuel lines, at 35-40PSI (2-2.5BAR) with a new fuel pump (because I broke the old one when inspecting it). The high pressure fuel system shows 280-300 at idle, but I am wondering if the DAS read out is just not fast enough to show a drop off in pressure because the car stalls out. I have swapped injectors, fuel rail w/sensors (possibly no good, from a parts car. Still having the same type of issue. Totally thrown off by the smooth idle for the first 5-10seconds. The only thing left that I can think of is the high pressure pump, and (god forbid) the fuel itself (which I have overlooked). I can't think of what else it could be if these things don't fix it....

  14. The metal chunk are not usual but about the flow reduction after 5th cycling of ignition switch, I believe that it's normal. The fuel pump unit got a bottom bucket with a limited flow inlet valve. If the fuel level is under the pump unit bucket, the fuel can only reach the fuel bucket strainer by this low flow valve. So after the 5th cycling, I think that it's enough to empty the fuel in the bucket. Then if you want more fuel from the pump outlet, you must wait that the fuel cross the low flow flap and fill up the bucket again. This observation cost me 423$ (fuel pump). Yeap, my old fuel pump was good. The new one did the same! <_< Hope it help and avoid that you waste a 423$ for low pressure fuel pump!Dom

    I wish I read your post before I snapped a plastic clip off my old (and still good) fuel pump!

  15. Low pressure feed pump runs continuously when engine runs. Rail pressure at idle is around 235 bar. Rail pressure goes above 300 bar when cranking engine to start. Low pressure supply to high pressure pump should be 2 - 2.5 bar. 3rd pumping element in high pressure pump is enabled during start but disabled at idle. The wee connector on the high pressure pump is for the 3rd pumping element solenoid. Below thread shows the internal workings of high pressure pump:

    Thanks! I am still going to replace the pump, but will check the pressures next :)

  16. When I pulled the fuel filter I noticed metal sparkles in the bottom of the drain bucket. I cycled the key and found that the fuel pump would run good and pump out alot of fuel.... however, but the 5th key cycle I found that the fuel was foamy and when running continuous the flow would cut out briefly (but the pump was still running). I pulled the fuel pump and found bigger metal chunks in the fuel pump cartridge, all the lines looked good and held pressure in the tank. It is likely the fuel pump, but it is possible that the metal chunks are interfering with the one way value that allow fuel to flow into the pump cartridge. Will get one on order and let everyone know how it goes!