SkydiverChris

Regular Members
  • Content count

    165
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About SkydiverChris

  • Birthday 11/14/1983

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Carleton Place, ON
  1. Traded my Smart in for a spankin' new 2015 Chevy Cruze and I have a few random parts from the Smart. Nothing of significant value, but make me an offer and I'll consider anything. If you're interested in a few things (or all of it), name your price and we'll chat. 5 x 5 Litre Jugs of Mobil 1 0w-40 European Formula Engine Oil. 4 are unopened, 1 has 2/3 remaining. These sell for $25 US + tax each, make me an offer 1 Used Original Smart Alternator Belt, came off car with 37,000km, looks in great shape 1 Used Original Smart Air Conditioner belt, came off car with 37,000km, looks in great shape 1 Brand New Smart Engine Air filter Cartridge 1 EGR Delete pipe (Custom made by Azhela, never used) with blanking plate 1 Brand New Generic Oil Filter Set of Lowering Bolts, custom made, never used Everything is located in Carleton Place, Ontario, but I'm in Ottawa (west-end) every weekday. If anyone wants what remains, I'll let it all go for the cost of shipping (or free for pickup). What remains is whatever is not stricken through. That's at least $18 for free considering that's what an OEM air filter sell for from Mercedes.
  2. Hey Lucy, Yeah...that thread is huge. The good news is that the issue hasn't recurred since I was at troy's shop. We've had PLENTY of days that matched the temperature/humidity of the days that I expect it to happen. It's not smoking anymore and it just seems to be running like a champ again. Still have my fingers crossed since it is intermittent, but I'm certain it would have happened by now. So, it was either the injector flush, the new injector rings and/or the new crank sensor that seems to have done it. Any news on your car? Did you get hooked up with Glenn?
  3. I agree, if they've spend 5 hours working on the car and not fixed the problem, I'd be talking to the manager. I'm sorry you had to resort to bringing it to the dealer. A $750 bill is not unusual at all when going to Mercedes.
  4. Afternoon Lucy?, Sorry for the delayed responses. I'm guessing that if the light is coming on when the key is turned on, it is just running a diagnostic, much like the dash does for the airbags, e brake etc... My fuel light comes on at every start and goes away after about 3 seconds. It did this even after I changed the fuel filter when diagnosing issues for a start issue I was having. If you could find someone with a star computer, it would probably give you a tonne of insight. I'd be happy to help, but I'm 4 hours away in Ottawa. As for why it may not be starting, it could be a WEALTH of issues. Fuel pump, fuel filter, injectors, Alternator, crank sensor, turbo, compression...electrical (pray it's not this). Having a star computer will allow you to read for error codes and might narrow or even tell you exactly where to start. Could be as simple as a loose connector on the SAM etc. Good luck and keep us posted!
  5. .4 ohm may be a bit low, but could simply be a contact issue etc. Removing the glow plugs on mine was dead easy. I was very worried, btu when I did it, it only took me 10 minutes from start to finish, including disconnect/reconnect. The key is to use penetrating lubricant when the engine is hot a couple of times, then do the removal with the engine hot. Also, whne removing them, do it like a thread tapper, 1/4 turn out, half turn back in...repeat, many, many times. The only word of advice is to avoid twisting them at an angle (don't use a wrench, or support it VERY well when twisting.) A "T" bar would be ideal. Really, it's nothing. Random update, but my last start issue after I replaced the crank sensor, glow plugs and injector rings as well as an injector flush at Troy's shop. It hasn't done it since that day. I'm holding my hopes up this time that it may be good.
  6. The guide is for the CDI, you're good to proceed. A gasser does not have a water sensor. Also, you're bound to see 2 versions of the fuel filter, 1 includes the water sensor, 1 Is just the filter. Unless your sensor is damaged, you can swap it from one to the other and save about $100. On a sidenote, does this light just come on briefly when you turn the key, or does it stay on when the car is running?
  7. I'm only interested if we can meet at Tim Hortons like the motorcycle owners do and then race down Merivale at 4am. Exhausts not allowed. Anyone else interested? Haha.
  8. Hey PinHead, I'm not sure where in the thread you grabbed that from, but I had replaced the battery last year, still occurring. Even then, the car started that day when the battery was completely dead...just not until the car had sat for a couple more hours.
  9. Evening, I finally took some time to go play with the car and here's what I came up with. Unfortunately, I still have no ability to do a compression test due to lack of tools. The details below show injector pressures, RPMs of each cylinder, and injection timing. I'm hoping someone can run the same tests on their car and compare the results. Let me know what you think.... Thank you! Engine Sensors Rail Pressure: Varies from about 238-245 BAR Common Rail Crankshaft RPM 823-828 RPM Fuel Injection Quantity Injected: 5.08mm3 Injection angle Commencement: -2.58 deg KW Actuation Period of main injection: 0.6ms Injection angle Start of actuation of preinjection: 14.51 deg KW Injection time start of actuation of preinjection: 0.4ms Element Shut off of high pressure pump: 100% Cylinder-Selective Parameters Quantity Correction Cyl 1: -0.49 Quantity Correction Cyl 2: +0.34 Quantity Correction Cyl 3: +0.15 Rotation of Cyl 1: 824 Rotation of Cyl 2: 826 Rotation of Cyl 3: 826 Fuel Supply System Fuel Supply On/Off Ratio (PCV): ~15.75% Engine Start Data Injection quantity at engine start varies from 10.43 mm3 to 16.80mm3 to 9.43mm3 across 3 starts Synchronization Status: Cylinder 1 (never saw anything different) Boost Pressure Start of actuation of preinjection: 0.98 bar Exhaust Gas Relevant Data EGR Positioner 3% On/OFF ratio of EGR positioner 0% Specified value EGR positioner 2.69% Engine Load 0.52%
  10. Hey Max & team, I am happy to contribute some time, but unfortunately I don''t have much experience at all in this specific area. I work in IT, but our skydiving organization recently went through this process and I was aware of the process simply from a member perspective. I was not involved in the actual transition, but I know they had to hire consultants, lawyers etc. Translation: $$$ If there's something I can help with, feel free to drop me a line. Thanks!
  11. Glenn (Smart142) had one a few days ago that he offered me, but I opted to hold off for now. Alternatively, I found this, which is a cross referenced part, but brand new. It "should" be an exact match, but I can't guarantee it personally. If you do some digging, it's an OEM replacement. Hopefully this helps someone. I worked it out to be about $190 shipped + any duty/import fees (figure $30-50). http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hella-SMART-CABRIO-8ML376723021-Intercooler/dp/B00NBQ7WVK/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AZNPXI728WVLS
  12. Oh, I fully realize that (hence the "obviously not for a car" comment). I was just curious about the charging characteristics of series vs parallel and if it mattered where the leads connected in the bank.
  13. I was kind of thinking that the connections would make that scenario irrelevant, but I figured that Battery Tender would know what they were talking about since they made chargers. Guess not.... If I was creating a battery bank in series (obviously not for a car), would you still be able to connect the red/black to any terminals in the bank and stil net the same result? This is purely to satisfy my curiosity. Thanks for the info!
  14. Hey Alex, I don't think that the Figure 9 is quite as simple as red to red black to black. Of course red/black never crossover, but in the diagram, the charging leads connect to the red on one battery, and the negative on the other. This forces the charger to spread the load across both batteries and should result in a more level charge. If you just hook up the charger to one battery, it has to feed the other battery to level the load (note the blue "wire" in the diagram). That being said, I'm going to simply have the extra battery in the car for when it is required, not constantly charging and connected. Wiring is irrelevant at that point. Just wanted to point it out in case someone else finds this thread and wants to use it's content.