Blaine

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Everything posted by Blaine

  1. Jocko, We bought one of these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B078MK861W Although it was C$ 369 when we got ours. It works, it does 240 and 120V input which I take as a big plus because we have both types of outlets in our garage. However it is only IP55, so I'd be cautious if it is very wet or raining heavily. Or protect it somehow. If you're planning on using it outside regularly it may be worth applying some silicone caulking. I'd have no reservations if the main body was protected and the cable was in the rain. We don't use it daily, so ymmv. A quick look on Amazon does show cheaper "similar" units now. I suspect that this winter we're going to use it to give our other EV regular power, While it's in the garage, keeping the battery from getting cold seems like it might be a good idea. Keep wishing my wife's company will install a charger for her. sigh...
  2. Very sorry to hear about your problems with the ED. We've had ours almost 5 years and it's been very solid. I would highly recommend the open source battery tester (https://github.com/MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag). It will give you a list of the cells, capacity etc. Much more than I believe the stock MB tester provides the service center. It is quite easy to assemble. Worst case you'll have bought an Arduino and some extra bits that only get used once, but it will be much less than the cost of the battery. Plus it will give you the ability to verify what the service folks are telling you. I think all the ED owners would appreciate hearing / seeing any details about your problems. Dead HV batteries have been rare. Good Luck! If I were nearby I'd lend you my tester, but it's been quite a few years since I was over that way.
  3. The mini-house for the EVSE body is a good idea. I'd second the heavy duty recommendation. We're using 12 gauge cords in our cars for when we need to charge away from home. Our original unit that came with the car failed about 18 months back. MB replaced it after running some tests and finding that it was bad. We had used it outside in the rain and snow 4 out of 7 days for a couple of years. So I'm pretty sure they are not entirely weather sealed. It had similar faults. The current one is ok, but has shown that kind of fault, and it might have been water related. We bought a backup 120/240 portable unit for peace of mind, although there are now about 20 public level 2 chargers near my wife's office so it's less of a concern for her.
  4. I'd recommend you buy or build your own ED battery tester. https://github.com/MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag For what it's worth, we have 73k on the car, do 450km per week and charge twice a day. Car still rocks after 4.5 years. Hope your ED turns out well!
  5. So this morning a BMW pranged our 2014 Smart ED's rear quarter. A couple of the panels were folded, mutilated and generally abused but the car is still running fine. The other guy's insurance company is going to cover the repairs While talking to the repair folks I queried whether they'd be ok with me paying extra and getting a full panel kit for the car. The hood has a bunch of road rash and I figured that all around things would look better with a matching set. They were generally receptive but wanted me to make sure they'd be ordering the right kit. Anyone know if there would be a specific part number? Between me and the repair guy we've had two answers from different MB parts counters. Not available any longer There's one for 2012 gasser but not the ED. The only reason I could see for the 2012 kit not fitting would be the DRL insert on the front. I'd appreciate any concrete advice Thx Blaine
  6. The $60 ones do look a bit cheap from the pictures. The $80 ones definitely look like they have better machining. Should still be cheaper assuming you don't have to deal with significant duties and/or brokerage fees
  7. When our tail light failed I tried to replace them with an LED unit that ostensibly supported CANBus. Failed. Thanks for the no questions asked return Amazon. While I was at it though, I installed a set of cheap LED headlights. $40 for a pair. Working fine, whiter, and they seem a bit brighter. Quoted at 9600 lumens, but I'd guess more like 6500 because they don't seem to be that much stronger, and they are definitely not the blinding types you see on some cars. Installation was trivial, and the orientation was easy to adjust. Wattage is supposed to be 60W vs 110W for the OEM. So perhaps they will save us a tiny amount of drain. Still trying to figure out what I'm going to do about the rubber covers. Probably buy a second set and puncture them for the LED fans.
  8. Glad yours is running well. We're far behind you at 70,250 km. Everything OK now that we've had the rear qtr panel and bumper replaced (thanks BMWer <sigh>). We had a tail light fail and I spent $7 for a new set from CTC. Everything else is perfect.
  9. Not that it's a solution for you but the OpenEVSE project has a built in timer so you don't have to control the power to the EVSE. Might be an option if you want to spend a bunch of $
  10. Looks like Daimler is moving on with changes at Hambach. They'll actually start making some other compact EV there in "two years".
  11. Maybe the EQ rebranding and folding of the Smart brand will help revitalize it. When they get around to it...
  12. Thanks. We have black panels so that may not be a problem. Still, from what I see on ebay the 2012 and prior panels aren't the same, even for the 2-3 I need.
  13. Ours is working at the moment, and I noticed that they did a software update sometime in the last month. Perhaps you just need to do a cache flush? Other than the climate preconditioning, which has always been erratic, I mostly use the reporting from the fleetcarma dongle. When we got the car they said, iir, 4 years and then you'd have to pay. Of course with the 2G retirement by the carriers it's likely to be out of service soon regardless of what MB does. It would be nice if they published the specs on the monitoring unit. Then we might reverse engineer it.
  14. When I was at the Toronto Autoshow this year the GM folks were still quoting 6-8 months delivery from deposit. Last year they failed to meet their 30k vehicle target (~25k) and this year they're slowly ramping back up at a slightly better production rate. It looks like they may manage to beat the 25k production level this year but at this point I'd estimate 35-45k units. Tesla is producing 2000 Model 3 per week so they should be able to exceed that in about 3 months. New Leaf production is already at about 10k per month. GM just doesn't seem to be serious about producing the car in volume.
  15. There's also the Free2Go rack http://forthesmart.com/ I thought the OEM unit was a buy the frame, buy the add-on subrack, pay through the nose.... If its C$250 though, that seems reasonable.
  16. There's an DIY project where you can build your own tester. https://github.com/MyLab-odyssey/ED_BMSdiag Pretty simple project, works well.
  17. Yes if the car is in good condition, passes a battery test etc. I'd pass on the 2yr warranty and put the $2400 towards some bank stocks.
  18. Are you asking 453 or 451 body style? The warranty on our 2014 ED (451) was worth it while we had it. Two significant repairs were covered. Although the cost of the required services is kinda nasty for what they do. You could ask the dealer to show you the maintenance logs. Was it regularly maintained?, any significant problems etc. We bought ours out at the end of the lease because its been saving us about $2100 in gas savings and that means in a few years it will pay for itself. Definitely the cheapest car we've ever owned when you factor in all the other cost savings.
  19. A used 451 ED (with battery) near Toronto is going for about C$ 10000 +/- 1000. Plus tax. There are quite a few so you might be able to haggle. kilometers seems to range from about 10k to about 55k. Ours has about 60k on it, does 450km / week, and we plan to drive it to death. I'd love to figure out the specs for the battery interface, it seems like you should be able to build your own as the prices continue to drop on the cells.
  20. I'm not sure that's true. The battery is in a canister that is bolted into a hole under the bottom of the car. The metal canister has plugs for HV, controls and coolant. Have a look on youtube for a manufacturing video (older version of the battery).
  21. I can't comment on Europe, but in Canada all the used Smart EDs that I've seen include the battery. I'm not sure why anyone would remove the battery. Without it the car would have little value.
  22. -30 might be challenging unless its plugged in. In the 451 model there is a heater element in the battery coolant line that comes on below -10C, but only if the car is plugged in. Ours spends nights in our garage but days outside in the cold where it charges from 120V at my wife's office. It has definitely done sub -15 ish. Available energy drops off pretty quickly below -10. We did take it out in -23 for a drive Saturday and 23 km took about 40% of the available battery capacity. hope that helps.
  23. And only 75 of those were EVs. Compared that to 2014 when they sold 561 451 EDs in Canada. What a massive failure by Mercedes Benz.
  24. Someone else may find this interesting. This is a chart of our 451's reported energy usage in Wh/km vs ambient temperature. It consists of 96 trips of at least 10 km from October to December. I pulled it together from our fleetcarma vehicle tracker data. Kudos to FleetCarma for a nice product. Under 10 km there is a lot of variability, and particularly so as the trip distances drop down to 1-2 km. I'd assume that's quick acceleration, hill climbing or something similar skewing the values for a short trip.
  25. Firstly, the number of data points is relatively low, so statistically it is a bit dubious to draw major conclusions. However, this isn't the first time this kind of data has been shown for EVs. In looking at these numbers you should be aware that we only use the cabin heater for defrosting the windows. We have a set of seat warmers under the floor mats to keep our feet warm. Roughly speaking I have a few observations from the data At any given temperature there is a lot of variability in energy efficiency. So road, wind, traffic and driving style have a significant effect. Maybe on the order of 50%. As expected, there is a bit of an upward hook in energy usage when the temperature drops below -5C. That's just physics. Looking at our FleetCarma overview it says we have an average efficiency of 132 Wh/km over 2062 km. Again, small data set. Numbers for a Tesla Model S seem to be anywhere from about 175 to 225 Wh/km. So the 451 is a lot more efficient than a Model S, even though it has the aerodynamics of a brick. Under -5C the car becomes progressively less pleasant to drive. Shorter range, weaker performance, battery sucking heating system. I'll try to remember to post an update in the spring, after we have more data.