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Everything posted by willc

  1. Hello Everyone, So I brought my car in to get front bearings replaced and when I got the vehicle back the check engine light was on with a EGR fault. The error codes presently are P0401 and P0405. I was researching buying a EGR simulator on Ebay, but first wanted to talk to some people about the decision. Well it turns out that my day of research ended up selling out every single last one of them on Ebay and none are to be found. I cleaned out the EGR but the check engine light persists, and limp mode is intermittent depending on whether I stop for any length of time after initially driving. If I can start the car and drive, and not have to stop until reaching a higher gear, I seem to not go into limp mode, but occasionally go into limp mode while driving. If I stop for an extended period of time after starting to drive (stop sign / red light), it is almost guaranteed to go in limp mode. The check engine light has been on ever since getting my car back from the mechanic. The check engine light wasn't present before bringing it in to have the front bearings fixed. I am suspicious, however I am told there is nothing related. Literally one block away from the shop and it turned on. Are there any electrical components that are involved with the front bearings that could be causing a short and the EGR is the weakest point? The mechanic that I have been going to for Smart specific issues has quoted $705+tax to replace the EGR. I presently don't have that kind of money and to add to it, my plates need to be renewed in a month which require an e-test which means I need to get rid of the CEL by then. I had paid him a two months ago to clean the EGR (~$150) and it was fine until the front bearings were replaced, but as you can see in the photo, that appears to be a lot of build up for only 2 months of driving (~4000km). I wonder if it is maybe my choice to use 0w40 oil for the first time instead of 5w30. I've had no EGR issues for the past 4 years of having the car until I changed the oil. In my investigating I noticed some corrosion on pins 1 and 5 of the connector. I used some electrical cleaner to clean it up, but wonder if the corrosion could have went further into the holes, and regardless how well I clean the external portions, if they are by chance causing issues internally. Any suggestions on where to find a EGR simulator, or what could possibly be a cause would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Will
  2. Thank you both for your responses. After Writing this post I started digging through the ~30 pages regarding the EGR, and stumbled across @stickman007. @Willys the person you're asking for was located in Etobicoke, and has since relocated to Oakville. He did successfully change my clutch actuator for $1600 and swap out two reluctor rings I provided from smartmods. I returned for my water separator because the light had been remaining on. It wasn't until I recently started investigating the EGR that I came across a corroded wire near the battery that was causing the light to go on. I'm assuming the water separator was replaced, but after I paid to have it replaced, the light turned on within a week. The EGR was a confirmed red flag. I drive 15 minutes out of town nearly everyday on 80km/h road. The timestamps of when text messages were sent and received, I am being generous when estimating 4000km (25km/day x ~90days). I'll contact @smart142 for further repairs to see if he has availability. The cost of the repairs this past year as been astronomical, (Glow plugs, shocks/springs, bearings, ball joints, clutch actuator, water separator, rotors, windshield resealed, and starter have all been done within the past 2 years) and I'm reaching a point where I may need to sell it if I can't find a sweet spot. I'm hoping that after replacing everything it practically becomes a new vehicle that will last a while without needing any major repairs again, and if it does, I could buy the parts and make the repair at my parent's where I have access to a hoist. First I need to learn how to do the repairs. Most people say "It is a Smart and I have no idea how to do A, B, or C" and then proceed to recommend I buy a different kind of car that is more well known and cheaper on repairs. I'm willing to learn how to do the majority of the repairs (presently changing tires, oil, lights, etc), but when special tools are required (adjusting the clutch), I've been outsourcing. Presently it sounds like I'm going to need to replace the rear right bearing, have the clutch adjusted (assuming the EGR/Limp mode affects the clutch), and the alternator squeaks a bit on start. I bought the car (2005 smart Fortwo cdi) at 64,000km and I'm at approximately 124,000km after ~4 years. Cheers!
  3. I'm having this exact issue. Unlock to the car to get in with FOB. Lights work (interior light doesn't dim when attempting to start; from what I have read means the battery is good). radio works. immobilizer disengages with FOB; lights blink 3 times upon lock showing the FOB battery is good. Everything checks out to be normal except it simply won't start (clicks when I turn the key, headlights turn off and back on after attempting to start which I'm told is normal). All signs point to solenoid connection issue. It has been a real pain as I have started dating someone out of town and on a few occasions now I have been left stuck pushing the car from one location to the next due to the city's street parking restrictions. Is there any way of obtaining a picture of what I need to poke? I keep looking online for pictures of the location of the solenoid but all I have been able to find are tips to poke it with a ruler, stick, etc. The next step once I get it started again it to bring it into the shop to have repaired. Need to get it started to get that far however. Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers.