RunSilent

Regular Members
  • Content count

    77
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

14 Good

About RunSilent

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Gatineau QC
  1. According to the service manager at the dealership today, it was another failed brake light switch. New switch installed, no signs of water ingress, no corrosion, on the contacts or wires, nothing. I have read enough posts on this brake switch to know that it will probably be a running problem. This is my third in three years now. Driving home tonight (-17degC) on the highway, with the car stuck at 2-bars power, I couldn't manage more than 90km/hr on the hill I climb (...and that means 80km/hr speed-over-ground) and after 20km on the highway, still had not recovered 3-bars. Warranty runs out next summer, so a Bolt EV is next on my list too.
  2. I would like it if the EPA or others would mandate a four ranges be posted: city and highway in both winter and summer for range with the interior at a comfortable temperature (i.e. using heat like one might in a normal car...) It may temporarily dampen enthusiasm a bit, but would hopefully spur the companies to start taking dramatic loss of battery capacity (50%) when it gets cold for long periods of time, seriously.
  3. Nigel, thanks, I had seen that on my first go. But I would not want to try that with plastic parts at -27degC. The car sat out all night at the dealer, and was still outside this morning when I went over. I spoke to the service manager and requested that they do not just change the brake switch again, but look for something else because that is obviously not the problem. I have the latest revision of the switch that is 11 months old, and there is no water, condensation, or corrosion in the housing that it sits in. I asked them to check the battery heater circuits, because no-power bars will also lock up the car if the battery is not warm enough. No word from the dealer tonight. About all I can do is infer the car is outside by checking the battery and range using the app on my phone. The charge holds steady, but the range shrinks as it gets colder. Low tonight is again supposed to be -27degC, and stay that way until mid-next week. Since he is not inundated with other Smarts with the same problem, there is something wrong with mine.
  4. Well, 11-months later and bricked in the cold again. 1-1/2hrs to get through to roadside assistance, 4 hours for the tow truck to arrive, 1-1/2hrs to get it loaded onto the flatbed they sent despite me telling them the rear wheels are locked up. Same symptoms as before, plugged in for three days, fully charged, -26degC, and the shifter will not move out of park. I am beginning to have my doubts that these cars are any good in the long deep cold up here in the nation's capital area. Will let you know what the dealer says this time. If they replace the brake switch again (which is already at the new version) then I will know there is a fundamental design flaw and will sell it. Not much point having a great car if it cannot be dependable. The electric drive is great, the rest of the car not so much.
  5. Mine is outside. Before installing this, I used the ED's L1 charger. Had to change the socket on the house and the breaker in the house because, as posted elsewhere in this forum, normal cheap household plugs and circuits are not really meant to draw 12 amps for 15 hours to get a full charge.
  6. 2014 ED in Quebec with 53,500km. No problems with the electric drive itself. Faulty brake switch bricked the car last winter requiring a tow. Replaced a rear ABS sensor when traction control failed in a snow-storm. Front brakes seized due to lack of use/grease on the pad carriers. Recently had the lexan roof replaced due to cracks letting water in when the car sat in the rain, but nothing came in during driving. Front right daytime LED running light replaced due to condensation in the housing burning out one of the four LED bulbs. All corrected under warranty. Will take in next year just before warranty expires. Regular annual service quite reasonable, I always get the interior cleaned and have always been given a very expensive loaner each time. Will need new rear tires next spring, the tread has worn out on the outer sides, but full depth in the middle. Will raise the inflation pressure, but winter tires are not wearing like this at all. Great little car, I intend to keep it until the battery loses capacity or something really expensive fails.
  7. There is no problem with the charger. As SmartElectric states above, it is pulling 10-12 amps for 10 hours. Unless it is a commercial-quality outlet, the contacts will let go and you will get arcing in the outlet. In the house I moved into recently, and used my 120V charger 3-months while I waited to install my L2, I cooked off both the outlet outside, and then found the breaker in the panel was also heating up and then started to arc within the panel. I had an electrician come in to replace the entire panel as the 125A breaker for the furnace was also arcing. After you have charged for 10 hours, put your hand on the breaker in the panel, it will feel quite warm to the touch, which is normal.
  8. Back up and running after it froze during the day in the parking lot at work yesterday at only -10degC. The car had 70% SOC and full power 3-bars available. After a tow to the dealer, they looked at this morning at -22degC and it was still locked in park. The issue was the brake light switch. There is a service bulletin out and the production number on my switch was below the number in the bulletin which then required the entire switch assembly to be replaced. It all works smoothly now. I am going to look into getting a timer for EVSE to split the charging up as Jaguar suggests. Will wait for the next cold snap to see how it goes, but I'm confident at least it will go in the cold now. M-B roadside assistance and the dealer service has been excellent.
  9. Car started working again suddenly and I put it into the garage to warm up and melt all the ice out of the wheel wells. (No need for a lowering kit, there was 1/2inch of clearance between the tires and the ice...) Went to the dealer on Monday. Their diagnosis is the brake switch is probably faulty given the symptoms and weather conditions. They had several other non-ED Smarts also calling up with the same complaint of being locked in Park last week as the temperature went up and down by 20 degrees in fairly short order. Waiting for a call back to take the car in, as they had the brake switches on back-order and were waiting for delivery. They are going to do the work under warranty even though they could not see the problem first hand when I brought the car in. Other than this issue, and a faulty ABS sensor wire harness on the rear wheel two winters ago which the dealer also was able to track down and fix, the car is otherwise very reliable in the cold.
  10. Tried again this morning (balmy -18 on the car display) and no luck. Unplugged the car, left the interior heater on for 30 minutes, (and in the process used up 30% of the charge,) and still no go. I have tried all combinations of starting with the brake on, brake off, putting the key in first with the brakes on per the manual etc. Will call for a tow later on when it warms up a bit. Based on the gas models, I did read there was an issue with the shift box interlock, but since the ED has no transmission, not sure how much in common there is with the shifter between the two versions. To kdubya, the reality is the battery shrinks as it gets colder. At -30, you can expect a real-world driving range of 38-40 km assuming you would like to keep some heat on and the windows defrosted, and have about 5% remaining upon arrival in case of delays. It is a combination of both the battery losing capacity and the load from the heater. The other issue seldom discussed is the loss of available power. At 30% available (1-bar) you cannot drive on a highway. Where I work, it is less than a minute to get to the on-ramp so the battery has not had time to warm up sufficiently to get to 60% available, the minimum needed for acceleration and maintaining highway speeds safely. On those days, I take an alternate route home, and it is a good 8- to 10km before the battery is up at a 100% power available. In their studies a while ago, Transport Canada did recommend both warnings about the dramatic loss of range with a recommendation for official posting of figures, and the dangers of loss of power available. If manufacturers had to post ranges for city and highway driving, at both +20 and at -20, consumers could make an informed decision, or they might make battery thermal management more of a priority and selling point.
  11. For the second time this winter, after sitting outside and plugged in all night, at -24degC, the car will not come out of park. No warning signs, battery capacity at 100%, power available at 1 bar (33%). Tried calling MB for a tow last time, but it took so long (45min) that the car, left with the inside heater on, finally warmed up and would work. Setting for preconditioning doesn't seem to make a difference. This weekend, no such luck. Not even at -12degC will it move. Will need to call for a tow tomorrow as it is going down to the mid -20s tonight. I cannot even push it into the garage, the rear wheels are locked! I think it is a defective heater in the battery, because when plugged into a L2 charger, it should be keeping the battery warm enough to function. If the dealer cannot fix it, or doesn't find a problem, it will be for sale for someone to appreciate in a warmer climate. 2014ED with 39,000km, and fully dealer serviced so there will be no disputing the condition of the car or their awareness of it. Anyone else had this problem?
  12. http://wwwapps.tc.gc.ca/Saf-Sec-Sur/7/VRDB-BDRV/search-recherche/detail.aspx?lang=eng&mk=9259&md=FORTWO&fy=0&ty=9999&ft=&ls=0&sy=0&rn=2015135&cf=SearchResult&pg=0 Steering Bolt recall received in the post.
  13. One year and 15,600km. I too really enjoy driving this car every day. Just completed the first annual service (about a month late...or 89 days according to the meter-it wasn't reset at the PDI.) Had the recall completed for stearing rack bolts, rear window tinted, desicant filter replaced, and overall inspection. Only one warranty claim for an ABS sensor that was stopping the traction control on a very snowy night last winter. Had a loaner car each time. Summer performance is fantastic, over 140km in a charge. I can usually do 120km and still have 20% reserve in my hilly locale. Lowest I've pushed it is 4%. Winter, the heater is excellent, range not so great. Lowest ambient temp last winter was -26degC and I had 48km range. Car is almost as good in the winter with the Conti winters as my old Subarus. It is not awd, but I can still get up my driveway that no fwd car can manage. I opted for the paddle shifters which are fantastic on the highway - you can roll along and let momentum do its thing. As others have said, speedo is 9% too high, I made this claim to MB and got the standard response it is in line with SAE standard Jxxx. I have read the standard and 9% is not what it is trying to achieve. Guess I need tires 9% larger... I have the Quebec made EVDuty L2 EVSE made by ELMEC in Shawinigan. Fantastic value, and very robust especially for cold weather outside with a flexible cord. However, the Charge and Depart settings to delay charging do not work with it. I had the dealer test the car at their garage on the Keba EVSE and it works as the book says it should. A bit disappointing to say the least. But I'm not going to change EVSE's just for that. My charge and depart settings also randomly change every few weeks, either the time by an hour, or from C&D to Charge Now. Confirmed with MB the car was not hacked, and my software is up to day. My car never sends me emails anymore either...was it something I said? As dpollo said, charging means you have to clean your own windshield. Since this is my first Smart, I've also learned you need to wash it by hand too. Trying a touchless carwash for the first and only time was a bit of an exercise in going back and forth to catch the spray... I'll not be going back to an IC car anytime soon.
  14. Works fine in the deep cold, just the range goes down by 50% from the summer, and if you cold-soak at below -20degC, you lose power output too, which is a problem climbing hills on a divided-lane highway. It was -29degC in the morning when I drove to work, left the car to sit outside for 10 hours without being plugged in, and then I drove home on the highway at -24degC. Lost about 3% SOC during the day, probably to the battery heater. Overall though, I am really happy with the car in the deep cold, and this is my first Smart, how well it does in the snow.
  15. Just ignore the range estimator and watch your SOC gauge and see how you do. At -7 to -12degC, I have been doing 80+km on a single charge with more than 20% charge remaining, and I use the heat continuously. I refuse to be cold or uncomfortable, that is the job of the car to provide that. I expect my range will not change much even at the lower temperatures because the heater is the same power. I agree it could be more efficient, but at -20degC and below, heatpumps will not work. That's the trade-off between an IC based electric car and a purpose-designed one.