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About LooseLugNuts

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  1. ..and while its out inspect the clutch fork hole for excessive wear
  2. yep..previous owner of my cabrio had same problem..i told him to add some kleenflo every few fillups .....and the problem quickly went away
  3. thats a shaft joint then...not anything to do with knuckles
  4. what is a "steering knuckle lube" ?
  5. forum search engines tend to ignore small words with 3 letters ask the locksmith if he's done any before id go with aftermarket key from china...and then if the locksmith cant do it youll at least get ripped off a little less because the dealer wont be selling you an overpriced key when looking at keys i suggest getting the one with the sealed rubber buttons ...if the buttons look flimsy skip it and look for a different supplier
  6. i think its safe to say that most locksmiths wont have the proper programs to reset the electronics personally ive bought some chinese keys but am still trying to figure out how to connect the software i have
  7. im fairly certain they are just regular cast normal ones im also fairly certain that i would avoid a machine shop that didnt know ...if theyre asking you for info they dont sound very professional i also wouldnt exactly call them liners ...because im pretty sure they arent removable ..."liner" tends to describe removal ones
  8. i made one by removing the aluminum bar and making a new one from square tube...... and welded a smaller 1.25 hitch receiver to the underside (cheap at princess auto) its really close to the muffler but i havent had any contact issues the safety chain catch is simply a leaf spring side shackle welded underneath the receiver the white line shows where the bumper skin is located..there is just enough room to fit the hitch pin..no more next time im going to try and make it a bit lower to avoid having to cut the skin and instead only cut the black valance
  9. some steel adapter plates would be easy to make for that one to fit smaller struts...it looks like a good one
  10. i picked up one of these hydraulic ones years ago dirt cheap from some tool store that was going bankrupt..i think it was $50 works like a charm on most but have to be careful with the small smart struts because it can only grab the cap...spring is too small https://www.amazon.com/Ton-Hydraulic-Strut-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000BMGRZY about 20 years ago i was doing some struts with the old threaded rod type compressors and one slipped...the strut mount flew straight up flipping my hat off when it hit the brim ...ive hated those ever since
  11. im not impressed with the lesjofors springs i installed 2 years ago the upper loops rubbed each other so much they put in flat spots..both sides were like this ..headlights were always too low too ..springs were too soft brand new out of the box
  12. i cant find much online but i know technicians here are taught that copper line is not allowed...same with compression fittings and single flare ..also have to be sure if using steel that its for brakes because some is sold as fuel line and not the same wall thickness but this new cupronickel alloy stuff passes just fine
  13. cannot use copper here (i cant imagine using anywhere on brake lines) must be steel but can be copper plated steel....there is also some new alloy ones available here that are easier to bend ..softer alloy but definitely not pure copper also MUST be double flare or proper bubble flare depending on original edit: im guessing what you mean by copper is similar to the alloy ones we call cupronickel
  14. theres nothing special about the brakes...any competent shop should have no problem fixing it ..especially at the back the only problem i could see is if they need to remove the body under covers and have no patience but because you say its near the wheel it should be easy...probably just a steel line that runs along the suspension tube..or if its coming out of the drum it will probably be a wheel cylinder
  15. put it in slow ...you should be able to get fuel right to the rim if you go slow it doesnt foam up