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Everything posted by LooseLugNuts

  1. if youre going to keep them id suggest bigger batteries...i have milwaukee 2ah that are basically useless...you need minimum 5ah for most jobs
  2. i only use milwaukee M18 and i modified the battery pack on my one black and decker tool (a pole saw) to accept a milwaukee battery for good tool reviews go to youtube and search AvE channel for bosch...he's probably done some videos on them edit yep...plenty of bosch product videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lpf67S2qH0I
  3. if you check OARA.com there a way to check inventory of all parts yards that use the system under the parts locator tab ....i dont recall what they would list the actuator under though..
  4. rockauto has actuators but they are hefty price at near $800 i would source a used one and clean/service it before install
  5. they should just swap out...some people say you need to "teach" it with a star but i never had any problem just manually adjusting by feel
  6. they were probably broken before and not noticed... but exactly like said above the break point will tell the tale if it looks fresh or not...i usually find them with a rusted old existing crack and then a small fresh final break
  7. youre probably ok with 5w though in toronto...i wouldnt do it up north or like calgary
  8. o is better for winter they should have plenty of 0w-40...thats where ive always bought mine (or maybe it was partsource) make sure its diesel spec
  9. but if i was stuck on using extractor and didnt have a tube that fit id probably find some hard plastic fuel line or some plastic vacuum line from a junk car and rig it some cars have nice stiff plastic tubing for long runs to the windshield washer jets too
  10. i second the idea of just changing the oil pan to one with a drain plug...they are small and cheap ..and very easy to swap out getting one from overseas will be slow right now though might be some closer ones available on ebay or germanparts.ca rock auto also usually has them
  11. i usually used rotella T6 diesel 0w-40 year round except i remember one summer i used some older 15w-40 diesel oil just because i had a bit i wanted to get rid of
  12. today was perfect weather up north too how did the clutch fork look?
  13. my coupe was fairly butchered up when i bought it ... the main power cable had been cut and i used a clamp to repair it...came in handy during subframe removal/installation... it looked similar to this >>> https://www.topothegulfmarine.com.au/steering-cable-clamp-brass-tiller/
  14. might as well add cleaning and protecting the starter spade terminal and inspecting the intercooler too...and that wire harness that always chafes ..and the scoop ...and the reluctor rings...and the ......everything else
  15. also while the trans is out it might be a great time to carefully remove and lube up the crank position sensor hole
  16. welding upside down is a wonderful experience if you have a welder thats the best way though...weld a nut on whats left...the heat really helps much easier to do on a workbench if youre taking out the trans anyway...the acorn nut repair can last a long time but changing out the arm is the best way (just remember to grease it once in a while)
  17. i would lean more towards the clutch fork punching a hole because you said it was sudden and severe be very careful with those actuator bolts ...they break easy
  18. heres where the sensor should be https://www.evilution.co.uk/electrical/external_temperature_sensor_451.htm
  19. one looks like a possible temp sensor...the other is probably for fog lights that have been converted for signal use to meet canada import specs
  20. she looks good my first advice would be to check windshield urethane integrity and rear side window sealing...save yourself future water and sam troubles...then add external relays for fuel pump and headlights but if you've already been reading for a year you probably already did that
  21. He moved on to the place where smarts never break down but im sure he accepts your thanks
  22. https://www.evilution.co.uk/info/sam_unit_fuse_box.htm
  23. open her up and give a sniff test find out what fried seems odd though...the main line should go directly to the fuse feeds
  24. if you have <12v dc at main input on sam and 6.5 on fuses you buggered it good
  25. sounds like a relay going full bore on and off...if it was arcing youd see smoke and fire dont run anything at full power from the sam....use the sam outputs to power added outboard relays that source full power from the battery (for fuel pump and main headlights.....good idea to do it for both highbeam circuits too if youre a frequent highbeam user)