LooseLugNuts

if i remember right CAA covers the driver regardless of car...you can borrow or lie and they will still tow it as long as youre present...more useful for the money crappy tire covers just the one vehicle last time i checked it was a 48 hour wait on CAA to get full use of membership..i dont know about crappy because i wouldnever recommend anyone to it

i think you need the cluster too...which kind of screws up the mileage records youll probably still have the 3 bar issue

yours didnt have an aluminum rear crashbar?..i cant even imagine towing anything from an angle iron bolted to that weak thing does the 451 have aluminum pans?....ive only seen stamped steel ones ...but ive only dealt with 450 cdi versions

im scrapping a 2005 caravan and noticed something interesting the rear resonator looks to long and small enough diameter to be a good fit in place of the original 450 cdi muffler...is even mounted similar with inlet on the right and outlet on the left i have no idea if it would be quiet enough though anyway if someone want to look into it further....its a 2005 special edition grand caravan with stowaway seats...the rear resonator is transversely mounted across the rear the factory ones look like a regular muffler ..rolled seams etc....the aftermarkets looks like a one piece welded construction heres a video that shows it...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jERCUgt6h0Y

kind of weird to be toting around dog turds

build a receiver hitch fabricate a tire mount from a ball mount mount tire on fabricated bracket...slide it into hitch and insert hitch pin remove hitch pin and tire mount to access tailgate

i dont like the idea of cutting holes in a car unless maybe you are just talking about the little removable grill and have spare ones

i would inspect the turbo before spending money on the intercooler also im cheap so id attempt to repair the intercooler before replacing it

if its a vacuum line there should not be oil in it the pump is on the engine....whats under the floor might be a vacuum reservoir or brake booster...im just guessing here as ive never delved into the vacuum system on these a picture is worth a thousand words

remove the actuator and inspect the divot ..if hole has punched thru the release bearing arm you will need to search on how to repair that if the hole is not punched thru you may be able to do a manual adjust to get it home...the actuator mounts on slotted holes

shop aliexpress or amazon much cheaper and same low quality as princess

i dont recall any kind of oil line in the location youre describing the only thing i can think of near the filler cap is a vacuum line from the vacuum pump which is there because diesel engines do not make vacuum

when you get deep into it though (as some coppers are proud to do)..they do need to be compliant in some way (SAE or DOT) technically those led light bars are for off road use only if you run into supercop who knows every law you might even get in trouble for turning off the factory drl and moving them to another location...im almost certain that all factory safety "equipment and features" need to function the exact way the factory intended and installed them

i didnt mount it exactly the friction fit is enough to solidly keep it where it is without falling in deeper ...and the little end brackets are positioned in a way that stops it from wiggling forward if someone tries to take it for themselves they wont be able too without taking the whole grill it stayed exactly where ive put it for a few months now and we have really bad roads up here i wasnt concerned about airflow...if it blocks some air flow in the winter im perfectly fine with that...in summer ive always had 3 blobs...that never changed after the light was there...the only interference issue i had was that i needed to bend my airhorns down a bit so the light wasnt forcing them into the rad

ive added a thin LED lightbar into my grill a few months ago dont know how good it is though as i havent wired it up yet...i plan to just trigger a relay from a high beam feed but i suppose it would be a effective daytime running light as well until some barney fife cop gives a ticket for using non-standard light im surrently using the grill fogs as turn signals and I added bulbs to the empty spot in the headlights and wired them up to the fogs so basically doubled up the turn signals on front....my sides are still stock parking/markers but upgraded to led...i should do the turn mod to them to because the led stick out much more than stock

the pins and terminals are really small for the amount of current and they melt if youre lucky..burn out completely if youre not theres plenty of threads here about it...a lot of us have wired in external relays for headlights and fuel pump circuit so that the sam is only powering the small current required for the relay iinstead of full component power

im fairly certain the alternator problem develops because of clearance issues the clearance between the rotor and the stator is so tight that any corrosion fills it quick and seizes it up also i think the reason some people turn off the drl is to save bulbs and to lessen the chance of burning up that plug and terminals on the back of the sam unit

one is for seatbelt..one is for door ajar...one is for water in the fuel filter and ive never figured the fourth light because ive never seen it light up welcome to here here is a thread about the e-box ...with some pictures

all ive done to mine lately is drive it a/c is getting soft might need a but of a top up...im absolutely amazed at how well the redtek sealer worked and the signal light has worked just fine since that night i played with the light switch so i left everything else alone for now...i guess the multiswitch was dirty

standing still ...engine running left turn signal works fine front and rear right signal works fine front and rear wheels rolling ...engine running left turn signals work fine front and rear right turn signal does not light front or rear and gives fast pulse on cluster any ideas? was an intermittent problem for a while but now seems to happen all the time canadian 2005 450 cdi

weird thing it worked today just fine on multiple errands the only thing i did different was yesterday night i went out and was testing if turning the lights on would make it work different...i did notice twice that if lights were on i didnt get the fast flash... maybe my stalk switch is dirty contacts or something from never turning on the lights and only using it to signal

its been about a year since ive checked my sam connectors (which were surprisingly like new) i guess ill start with that

my headlights (and tail) come on by themself as soon as i drive away...i never actually turn them on unless i need to use the highbeam..or see my speedometer at night ...both of which is rare

yes...if i drive it then stop the headlights stay on....and the right signal works fine...but rolling or driving just fast flicker and no right signals

which dash light?