LooseLugNuts

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Everything posted by LooseLugNuts

  1. i havent tested a smart one so im not sure if you can even get in there enough to do this but my way of testing most normal thermostats is to manually open them a bit and pinch a wire in there...then hang it by the wire off the edge of a pot...and clip a thermometer to the side of the pot ...when it reaches the temp rating the thermostat should release its grip on the wire and fall in the pot
  2. couple of inches up here and the roads were glare ice all night but its melting quick
  3. i'd agree if you said some i don't agree with none is this a Canadian only forum?
  4. yeah...just because we only have diesel 450 here in Canada (i think)...doesnt mean we aren't going to try and help a fellow smart owner from the UK who happens to have a gas model
  5. welcome to here ive been thru st louis back in the nineties with an eighties toyota tercel..120kph and transports were still flying past me....i cant even imagine driving that highway in a smart fortwo
  6. I understand it from both sides on one hand its a good thing for members to be able to edit their own posts and fix links that break but on the other hand its also good to protect the information that had been posted ...when someone takes a fit and deletes posts it ruins threads...banning them doesnt stop it from happening again with another member.....shortening the edit window does some forum software allows for individual member permissions...some forum software only allows group permissions this thread is interesting lmao at the commitment that mentioned guy had...i just did a search and he actually went and edited back to 2007...almost every of 1000 posts...
  7. so what was wrong with the head gasket?..first post claimed great compression also dont let the toothless oil drive gear scare you...mine was so smooth it looked like it never had teeth,...i put a new sprocket and chain in...and new pump parts (gears) and shes been working just fine ever since (i also inspected cam bosses though to make sure there was no major wear)
  8. oh i didnt even notice it was a gas model.....was wondering why that muffler didnt look right i ran into a weird white smoke problem a long time ago similar to what i see in the video ...i dont remember what kind of car it was but the problem ended up being a leak in the brake booster and the engine was sucking in brake fluid thru the vacuum power assist line straight into the intake,,,,something had gone wrong with the master cylinder and fluid had built up in the booster looked like antifreeze smoke and stuck around a long time but didnt have the sweet smell ...took me a long time to find it
  9. "master tech" is a strange term...anyone with a licence (or technically a trade certificate ) is a master ..
  10. wow youre release bearing arm is in awful shape it looks like its about to tear away and leave a big hole
  11. i just looked and the bit i used measures 0.216 not sure what fractional size it was ..cant read it i brazed it to a large bolt (after drilling a hole in end of bolt) so i probably just turned it in by hand..its still full of carbon crud i never cleaned it..it didnt dig into any head material ..just carbon old glow plug and a steel brake line is good for making compression test adapter...just be sure to use a 500 psi gauge dont look too close at that welding Tolsen..i was in a hurry at the time and the silver flux or whatever is oxydized from sitting
  12. when i did mine the head was off if you do it on complete engine just make sure the piston is down on whatever cylinder youre doing
  13. did you ream out the glow plug holes? when i changed mine i welded a rod onto a drill bit that was larger than the element and ran it down the hole,,,theres was tons of sooty carbon in there that would have stole heat from the new glowplugs my head was off but using a greasy bit should keep most of the crud in the flutes if you do on complete engine mine starts good all winter long dont know if this helps but its just a suggestion to do it if you decide to go in there again to do your own compression check i cant remember what my compression reading were when i checked mine...i was more concerned about them being relatively similar
  14. filled with fuel would hydrolock it wouldnt take much either ..the combustion chamber is tiny in these things
  15. or crank sensor...or wiring issues seems weird to say it doesnt run and then say it runs with cyl 3 glow plug out i have no idea what would cause that
  16. probably the ecu beside the airbox (but thats just a guess)
  17. those wires are fine for 5 amps you can feed 2 relays no problem from 1 sam pin...bulb draw is no issue because bulbs will be fed thru relay and external power source....only the added relays are fed by the sam the relay control circuit is milliamps ...as low as 10 ...or up to 50 milliamp depending on type ...either way its negligible use 4 or 5 pin relays...30 goes to battery...87 goes to the bulb wire(or fuel pump wire)...86 goes to sam pin ..and 85 goes to a ground
  18. here is an AWG amp rating chart https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
  19. ive never seen the wire size as a problem...it looks like they just made the pins too small..or maybe bad batch in production ...my friends 450 has burned out the headlight pins and the fuel pump pin while mine which is same year and same mileage still has a connector that looks like it just came off the factory line
  20. doubt youll need a harness plug that usually melts is part number Q0015374V001000000
  21. these symptoms sound the same as my friend had on his 05 cabrio the first time it kept happening i adjusted the actuator manually the second time (about a year later) i had to do a repair to the actuator rod to prevent it from going so deep into the worn clutch fork ....and that has worked great so far
  22. mines a 450 model so i can only speak from my experience with a 450 diesel i made an obd2 jumper a few years ago to disable the traction control and i can say ive never needed it in fact the only time ive damaged my car in winter was when the traction control got disabled for another reason (frozen brake switch) and while leaving a stop it sent me spinning into a frozen snowbank and cracked my front fender
  23. i had to cut the plug because the center part was too brittle and melted i was able to save the pin from the one working circuit and used it to trigger 2 relays...one for each bulb....no real reason other than i had lots of relays and just figured they draw so little milliamps that using 1 circuit to feed 2 relays was just fine i didnt go to the battery for source ...its been a while but i think there was a large constant voltage source right on the outside of the sam unit that i used to grab the main power the guy came back just a few weeks ago with only one light working and was all worried that the problem returned and expected major sam problems...but since i knew they were controlled by only one feed we just changed out his burnt bulb and he was on his way
  24. yes i did this to a friends car...installed 3 relays...one for each low beam (both headlight relays fed from the one working output) and one for the fuel pump