LooseLugNuts

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Everything posted by LooseLugNuts

  1. Lesjöfors are available in Canada thru carquest $200 for front pair if i remember right (some of that was a courier charge though because they werent stocked in my area )
  2. IMO its basically only good for ..reading and erasing abs/esp codes ..reading and erasing srs (airbag) codes ..resetting cluster wrench service warning ..cluster lcd display test which is basically useless it will read and erase engine codes but im assuming most of us already have obd2 code readers and scan tools for that for $40 its worth it to some people...not for others ...for me it was worth it because my regular scan tool does not do airbag srs systems i cannot see any other usefullness for this tool on canadian 2005-2008 diesels
  3. A "stronger" crash bar won't crush as readily to absorb crash energy, and will allow greater force from the impact to reach the passenger compartment. Attempting to "re-engineer" any crash safety systems is not recommended. im ok with that building a whole new one means i could keep the original one and supply it to the next owner if he/she is a fuddy duddy armchair engineer
  4. rebar is used a lot to describe small weak bumpers that are hidden behind plastic bumper skins/panels personally i would have tossed that whole bar aside and started from scratch building a much stronger one out of thick wall tubing
  5. hmm seems to be a hijack going on here welcome to both
  6. http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=26234
  7. i bought from that same seller..it seems to work fine mine was $130 canadian shipping included (but the dollar was worth more at the time) they did not give me the o ring and if i remember right the round gasket was wrong (i think i ended up using some copper washers from my brake parts hoard) they also included a nice little turbo key chain (my account there shows a price of $97.75 for the cartridge ...and a total of $130.31 including the shipping)
  8. hoses are all good... found a tolson post on google that explained my problem...i was taking absolute reading instead gauge reading (been awhile since trade college and ive never tinkered with turbos ) got it set to 29 psi max at the moment and definitely notice some extra zippity-doo thanks again to Tolson who seems to be on every smart site ever made
  9. ok now ive just noticed my map reading with key on engine off is 14.2 psi..so i need to compensate for atmospheric pressure? (using autel ms609 to read live data) so im guessing its safe to say when saw 26 psi max boost that was actually only 11.8 psi and i should turn it up by moving the adjust nuts closer to actuator ? (05 cdi 450 in case i never mentioned it )
  10. i guess i need to do some adjustments after reading this thread my turbo is reading 14.5 psi at idle/coast and max 25 to 26 psi on accell ...(with no codes being set) feels a bit lazy compared to another smart i drove but i didnt think much about it until now
  11. no ..it doesnt seem to access any brake data except as far as i can tell for brakes it just pulls and erases trouble codes for abs and esp (or tells you if no codes are present) and some useless feature for checking brake switch on/off in live data
  12. got it working again by redoing the keygen part of setup...didnt have to reinstall
  13. again?.. ok ill try that but i think the screens are different this time around from the first time i installed it if it doesnt work ill try to grab some screenshots
  14. tried to use mine tonight and it wants to connect to internet to validate install is this because of windows 10? anyone else having problems?
  15. found a nice informative post on a diesel forum first post has the good stuff (didnt read much of the rest yet) http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/64-maintenance-fluids/415525-official-red-dye-offroad-diesel-faq.html
  16. really?..what about those people who make their own stuff from deep fryer grease?... someone should invent a filter capable of making everything clear again
  17. im pretty sure there are huge fines for that in ontario if you get caught with dyed fuel
  18. yes..im sure i saw something there about esp...and there was some stored abs codes that i remember clearing (previous owner had cut the rear wires instead of reaching an extra 3 inches to unplug them) also if you didnt figure out desktop icon thing yet do this make a shortcut on desktop for MAIN application file ...one for the cars and one for the trucks...then when thats done right click on and go into properties to change icon ...i used the nice red .ico picture from the program list..(the one similar to my avatar but has an engine picture) ....then i renamed one DELPHI-CARS and the other DELPHI-TRUCKS thats makes for a nice icon to double click for using program right from desktop edit:also i opened my dongle up and there was one board loaded with heavy NEC ceramic looking chips so i guess i got a good one as mentioned earlier
  19. i ended up just using my laptop i love the ISS feature scan all system in one ..pretty neat little tool for such a low cost finally got my airbag light out (powered up car with seats out before i knew it would be a problem)
  20. ok thanks..i have another laptop i just didnt think i could just copy them onto a drive stick but if its that simple ill try it
  21. i just received mine today and im hoping someone can answer my probably rediculously simple question the little netbook i want to run ii on does not have a cd drive ...and im assuming install intructions are on the cd...what is best way to transfer everything into a usb stick? (if i can do that)
  22. i ordered this one last night .. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-Car-Diagnostic-Tool-Scanner-D900-CAN-SCAN-Live-Data-Code-Reader-Auto-Scan-Scanner/1892947648.html tool basically pays for itself the first time you need erase an airbag code
  23. better video of smart usage ..maybe someone can translate what the screen says
  24. man thats a lot of extra work taking the whole thing off...when i did mine i left the manifold on the car..
  25. i also melted mine ...heating up stuck top nut and the original cap appeared to melt away like a soda can....new replacement one seemed to be steel instead of aluminum or white metal its not alternate if its the same part ...look it up and im pretty sure youll agree they are one in the same ...parts are made by sachs not vw or mb...close to $30 at local mb dealer here...vw part was 1/3 the price online (but i will admit i was in a hurry and just went to mb for mine) long ebay link i did that to my mine...didnt like the gap between body and stop cap so i cut some rubber gaskets to take up the slack and couldnt see any reason at all for it to effect safety or alignment