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Everything posted by LooseLugNuts

  1. crutchfield says Metra 70-1758 will work but i have no experience with it
  2. id cut the plug and wire it right in ..solder and heat shrink of course and id leave some wire on the plug ..and keep the plug...just in case i needed to swap the factory deck back in
  3. i bought mine as a basket case too took me all winter to get it back together but anyway long story short i couldnt get it started for 2 weeks and just about to give up when i decided to go over every single wire connector and after a bit of checking i pressed one and heard a click and then i was able to start it ...if i remember right it was on the pump so my advice is to check all your connectors
  4. my first check would be a battery load test with a modern battery scan tool...then id probably do a second one with an old resistive type tester if that all passes my second check would be alternator (bad diode)
  5. check the box for a part number ...then google search it and hopefully it doesnt just show an old thread with someone asking "what is this box?" lol
  6. that looks like the one that causes dim fuel filter lights and door ajar signal when the door is not ajar
  7. used my milwaukee 1/2 drill yesterday a bunch with a wire brush attachment to clean out the garbage i found on a family members tiguan that ive been slowly repairing (all 8 intake valves smashed into an "s" shape below the bell due to chain tensioner failure) what a dirty s.o.b. intake this p.o.s. has....i suppose its from a mixture of turbo oil and egr gases ....i also blame the direct injection (gas) because i doubt it'd be so filthy if there was a fuel spray in there
  8. i would never recommend buying a smart ...unless youre good at fixing things and even then i would only suggest it as a second fun car...not an everyday commute car
  9. i would say its the abs system running thru its checks and balances
  10. for me it says 5 days ago and its probably accurate considering less than 400 views view counts usually accumulate after a repost
  11. the plates make me suspicious
  12. nope that is the member status
  13. its my line of employment ...not my own personal vehicles its the ceramic pads that have less brake dust
  14. ive used rockauto cheapies with no problems i cant remember the last brake job ive done without doing rotors and i probably do 30 or 40 a year cant remember where i got my last set for the 450 but they were cheap and they were crossdrilled ...maybe canada brakes or ebay
  15. consider the horn buttons as the horn buttons (top right and top left) the "other spot" that works but is not labelled as a horn button is just a bonus one
  16. i forgot i had a picture of mine i didnt see anything wrong with using the original locations for the crash bar mounting...and it towed just great but i definitely didnt haul heavy loads like tolsen
  17. please dont use those tow hooks for anything other than pulling it on a flatbed id made mine from thick wall steel tube (i think it was 2 inch or 2,5) and then welded on end flanges (using the old flimsy aluminum crash bar as a template) then welded on a 1.25 receiver tube from princess auto....and welded a spring shackle plate to the bar for hooking on the safety chains next time if i need to build another i will plan it out a bit better to only have to cut the lower black trim (on mine i had to cut some of the actual bumper cover and the trim) its fairly easy to do but make sure you keep test fitting for muffler clearance and bumper skin fitment....and please make sure the welds are good..i know you said it wont be for towing but you never know what the next owner may do with it
  18. those are injectors if i remember right the glow plugs are deep in...on the other side of that plastic mercedes trim...there are little half circles on the edge of the plastic where each plug is located the control module for glow plugs is on the top of the frame piece between cam cover and top of right rear wheel
  19. DRL

    ive tried some resistors but apparently they are for canbus issues and not the radio static....also tried ferrite filters but there is barely enough room on wires to make loops next time my assemblies are out im going t try and wrap foil around the wires and then a copper wire to a ground to make a small shield its currently fixed by listening to cd instead of radio my door ajar light would stay on half brightness and it was that flat white connector near the battery ..i seem to remember someone else posting about their filter light and it was the same connector...
  20. sometimes weird things with those lights are due to rotten connections on white connector that is forward of battery (have to remove battery to see it)...but shouldnt cause a no-start
  21. try changing the filter i think that dash light is for the filter or water separator also diesel fuel is organic...it grows mold as it sits.. if it was my car id at least change the filter and run the hose into a clean container while its off to grab a sample and see what the fuel looks like ...maybe add conditioner or just drain it and start with fresh fuel the wrenches show up according to mileage ....its a factory gimmick to get people into the dealer for ripoff "services"
  22. DRL

    every led ive ever tried from aliexpress causes major radio interference...
  23. http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/topic/22515-smart-450-cooling-system/&page=1
  24. devinz is just a spammer trying to not look obvious it seems to be working so far
  25. i have to agree with that good for looks....and good for braking if youre racing it but for a normal street driver car id say the rear drums are perfect just the way they are