LooseLugNuts

11 hours ago, marinersk said:

Imagine replacing all the rusting pieces not directly related to suspension (I'm looking at you, De-Dion tubes

those tubes flex and are an integral part of the suspension

for extra cooling i suppose

seems kind of close to where right axle needs to be 

i like the panel colour but i dont like the wheel colour

drivers rim appears to have some pothole damage but it might be an optical illusion ...7-8 o'clock position appears to be flatter

id even put grease on the inside and just slide it on the rod..there should always be a bit of tension anyways.and it looks like it will slide on enough to keep itself just fine ...i dont think gluing will help anything

any ep grease should be fine..personally id go with whatever thick stuff i had on hand

yeah...at least drop the pan to check the oil sprocket

maybe even put a pan with a drain

id suspect a head gasket ..especially 2 cylinders side by side 

19 minutes ago, Willys said:

You could push air into each cylinder and see where it's leaking from, telling you what is worn by where the engine is regards to timing etc. Intake, exhaust or valve cover...?

 

its risky 

id be spraying those glow plugs for days before trying to remove them 

mine were broken which is why i got the coupe so cheap..one was even drilled off center with an easy broke off in the hole ...lots of fun

i suppose if someone had a known bad injector you could probably make something to do thru the injector hole instead

edit :or use one of those rubber tipped push type compression testers in the injector hole lmao

post #4 says 1.1k ohm is normal for these

bad crank sensor will (most likely) never set a code

the only way ive diagnosed them (on other cars) is checking for rpm signals with a scantool while cranking

yesterday was a mix of rain sleet snow and hail 

is abs bleed even necessary?

my first coupe sat for years with brake lines disconnected...the whole system was empty...i remember just bleeding it the normal old fashioned way with zero problems

ive only used the delphi

im fairly certain i seen a foxwell model that said it did smart keys 

james the best 

best spammer maybe 

id expect the key to shear off the impeller pulley if the gears dont actually break

no shear pins on that model

seems odd..i think id prefer shear pins ..even though it says hardened gears...

ive pulled chunks of 2x4 out of peoples snowblowers..phone books....dog leashes.......tire chains....i cant imagine how no shear pins could handle that

these are the best ive owned (and ive owned/sold hundreds of blowers)

this one is rough shape ...if you find one that was cared for they are gold

1989/1990 and maybe 1991 era....the 10/28 and 12/33 are great...the 8/26 not so much (smaller slower impeller on the 8)

impeller is NLA so its always good to check it but even if damaged they can be fixed and reinforced

they were branded as mastercraft but occasionally i come across some mtd branded and some columbia branded models...the handlebars/controls are different though..i prefer the mastercraft variation that the red ones have

personally i prefer older ones than what i see for sale lately...

my favourites are the red mastercraft ones from 1989-1990 made by mtd with 16 inch impellers..they are hard to find in good shape though,,,people that still have them kept them for a reason

second choice would be a good ariens from around 2000.2005 ...or a john deere from same era with a D in the model which is basically a green branded ariens (has to have the D at the end of model...the other ones are crap made by mtd and murray/briggs)

i gave up getting cold wet and sweaty though ...quite a while back i bought a western snowplow for truck

toro is notorious for their impeller design

it is very good...and rarely ever clogs 

sprinkle some talc along the bottom outside edge of windshield and then slam the door with the windows up...

if you see a big puff you might as well properly reseal the windshield instead of adding sponges

i never noticed how bad mine was until one day with light snow i slammed the door and seen the snow fly...

34 minutes ago, Sydney said:

how reliable are the gas engines in these cars.  the car i just picked up has 165,000k on it.  right of the bat, i am looking at $260.00 for a starter.  then work on getting her back on the road.

shop around

rockauto has starters for $98 after core return

might find a used one even cheaper https://www.car-part.com/

there might be pictures of the battery somewhere on the site

its just a clear plastic tube that attaches to a port on the battery (assuming your car has the correct battery) and the tube fits into a floor grommet to vent gasses to the outside

edit: heres a picture from evilution website 

open up the front clip ...it has to be in there unless someone cut it off

its just takes a few minutes to remove the front clip

yeah just cut it out and solder direct...

i also like to use heatshrink tube instead of tape...and i usually put a dab of dielectric grease on the soldered part before sliding on the heatshrink

the battery gasses make it corrode faster....make sure your battery vent tube is connected properly

On 9/29/2020 at 6:57 PM, lilturbo said:

Hey guys

I recently started looking at a 2006 Smart Fortwo, my plan is to do a 4x4 conversion into it or something like that just for fun. Could anyone help me out with where I could go to find all terrain or mud tires that would fit the model, and rims? This would be the first time I’ve put money into a vehicle and I want it to look awesome. Thanks guys!

if youre thinking off road only...which is basically your only legal option ...i would suggest using a side by side chassis..and mount the smart body onto it

ive had this idea for years but good side by sides are hard to find at cheap price

even a lift kit on a stock smart is illegal ..getting technical youre not even supposed to have tires that are any size other than the factory ones listed on the door plate