LooseLugNuts

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About LooseLugNuts

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  1. when buying a set of e-torx make sure its the larger set... i think the biggest one needed is for the front caliper brackets and/or the rear subframe bolts
  2. wow those wires look like a headache in the closer pic those motorcycle jacks are perfect for this...thats exactly what i used on mine
  3. my main power wire had been cut by previous owner (along with abs wires..firewall ...and extra bonus was broken easy outs in off center drilled busted off glow plugs)... anyways i just wanted to suggest a quick fix for that cable..if you just wanted to get it running they make really strong brass and copper wire clamps for quickly joining thick copper wire..perfect for temporary uses (i wont say if mine was ever repaired permanently )
  4. the colours are kind of of a standardized way to determine awg size the solder and shrink material all melts at the same temps regardless of size
  5. get cheapo ones to try..theyre maybe 10 cents a piece in bulk packs on amazon or aliexpress...dont bother with kits that have yellow ones ...youre more likely to use the whites and reds...maybe a few blues save the expensive ones for important jobs
  6. ive never had trouble using a regular plain jane canadian tire heat gun
  7. not sure..might be 3m basically if you look at them and theres only 5 in the package and the price is ridiculously high like maybe 5$ for 5 theyre probably the real good ones
  8. first time i actually used these was on my smart...previous owner was an idiot and cut the abs wires when removing the subframe instead of just reaching in and unplugging them 6 inches from where he cut them they work great the solder melts with just a heat gun and the clear plastic shrinks to make a good seal i recommend sticking to brand name ones......china makes cheap ones that are still decent but the copies are much easier to melt thru the outer casing never had one melt apart yet and wouldnt expect it to...
  9. cooling might be a problem i guess they rely on open air in bike application but without shrouds it wont get enough air (that engine really reminds me of the old air cooled vw without the fan and shrouds )
  10. drills tend to follow the existing bore quite well with a steady hand taps are the same way if you pay attention to the starting position ....we arent talking thousands accuracy needed in this situation bit of grease on either tool will help stop chips from contaminating the oil passages although i think gravity would suffice in this instance i guess i just much prefer the satisfaction of fixing something myself over parts changing no relocation kit needed ..........the chances of getting a second filter knocked off by road debris is quite low (especially if proper short filter is used)
  11. very very unlikely youll ever get that part from a wrecker they will insist on selling the engine complete
  12. my first step would be to try and find something like this that fits the original filter ignore the measurements and find whatever one you need...
  13. thats why he mentions bore guide and tap guide..id say its pretty simple but needs proper set up to get it straight youll only get one chance so might as well do it right the first time
  14. fiberglass welding blankets go on sale often at princess auto i bought one just before christmas it was half price
  15. i dont think the keys get programmed the car gets programmed to accept the key i have no idea what someone may have used on your keys i have one somewhere in my junk but my new computer doesnt have the software if you dont know what it is i think its better to just pay a dealer in your area to get it done choosing a smart fortwo as your first car and not being a do-it-yourselfer is a bad idea