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Everything posted by LooseLugNuts

  1. the colours are kind of of a standardized way to determine awg size the solder and shrink material all melts at the same temps regardless of size
  2. get cheapo ones to try..theyre maybe 10 cents a piece in bulk packs on amazon or aliexpress...dont bother with kits that have yellow ones ...youre more likely to use the whites and reds...maybe a few blues save the expensive ones for important jobs
  3. ive never had trouble using a regular plain jane canadian tire heat gun
  4. not sure..might be 3m basically if you look at them and theres only 5 in the package and the price is ridiculously high like maybe 5$ for 5 theyre probably the real good ones
  5. first time i actually used these was on my smart...previous owner was an idiot and cut the abs wires when removing the subframe instead of just reaching in and unplugging them 6 inches from where he cut them they work great the solder melts with just a heat gun and the clear plastic shrinks to make a good seal i recommend sticking to brand name ones......china makes cheap ones that are still decent but the copies are much easier to melt thru the outer casing never had one melt apart yet and wouldnt expect it to...
  6. cooling might be a problem i guess they rely on open air in bike application but without shrouds it wont get enough air (that engine really reminds me of the old air cooled vw without the fan and shrouds )
  7. drills tend to follow the existing bore quite well with a steady hand taps are the same way if you pay attention to the starting position ....we arent talking thousands accuracy needed in this situation bit of grease on either tool will help stop chips from contaminating the oil passages although i think gravity would suffice in this instance i guess i just much prefer the satisfaction of fixing something myself over parts changing no relocation kit needed ..........the chances of getting a second filter knocked off by road debris is quite low (especially if proper short filter is used)
  8. very very unlikely youll ever get that part from a wrecker they will insist on selling the engine complete
  9. my first step would be to try and find something like this that fits the original filter ignore the measurements and find whatever one you need...
  10. thats why he mentions bore guide and tap guide..id say its pretty simple but needs proper set up to get it straight youll only get one chance so might as well do it right the first time
  11. fiberglass welding blankets go on sale often at princess auto i bought one just before christmas it was half price
  12. i dont think the keys get programmed the car gets programmed to accept the key i have no idea what someone may have used on your keys i have one somewhere in my junk but my new computer doesnt have the software if you dont know what it is i think its better to just pay a dealer in your area to get it done choosing a smart fortwo as your first car and not being a do-it-yourselfer is a bad idea
  13. get a delphi 150e for $40 figure out how to install the cracked software pays for itself on first use and is handy for airbag codes and abs if you dont already have a scantool for those
  14. my father has some stories from trade school in the 60's....one guy had a mini like that and jambed a chevy 327 into it..... he says when you hit the gas youd never know which sidewalk it was going to hit
  15. and i would get in there with a mirror and flashlight while slowly turning the engine over to see what part of the flywheel is touching the starter
  16. also you should always do springs in pairs,,so count it as 4
  17. the only way i can think of checking flywheel without removing trans is to use prybars and look for odds amount of play...you should only feel crank thrust...which can be compared at both ends if you have a dial indicator and solid base does the old starter have marks showing it was rubbing?...if it doesnt then something is different....either the nose casting or the mounting holes maybe check tooth contact and if its excessively close you can modify the mounting holes to "redneck" shim out the assembly along with a slight removal of material where its rubbing
  18. if it was me id make double sure the flywheel wasnt loose or cracked and then id shave a bit of aluminum off the nose of that starter then id test it out and send her down the road to the next owner for a fair price id also make sure its the correct starter...if its a rebuild one they could have made a mistake
  19. hose in the ear as mentioned by willys is my favourite way to isolate a noise..i keep a section of that clear stuff with braided reinforcement just for that first check would be internal (stick the hose in your best ear and send the other end into the timing cover area via the oil filler cap)...if it passes that one leave it running and move on to all external possibilities
  20. more info needed wild guesses for me would be a loose flywheel..timing chain slap...or maybe a motor mount
  21. germans always sound so pissed off
  22. i cant remember 100% but im fairly certain all 450 rims will fit a 451 but you cant go backwards like put 451 rears on a 450 rear (but 451 rears will fit 450 front)
  23. hold ctrl button down while choosing what files to upload
  24. is that a gasser 450? i dont remember diesels having oxygen sensors and he says it had o2s codes
  25. personally i like the noco genius line of chargers...and they make good quality adapters you can leave connected instead of alligator clips but if youre parked outdoors you could simply use a small solar panel to keep it topped up