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Everything posted by LooseLugNuts

  1. nice pics i hope you cleaned up and greased the solenoid connection while you were in there those wobble end extensions are great tools
  2. germanparts dot ca used them a few times...no problems and the parts get here quick they have a wahler one listed for $67 right now..plus they usually have a small savings using a promo code
  3. welcome to here i dont have an answer but someone who does will probably be around they will probably want to know what model year
  4. i can but its a cheat previous owner cut a trap door out of the firewall in my car to access the starter...id just have to grind off my welds and remove the seam sealer i put when i sealed it back up
  5. injector injects in the center dont ream any further than the actual length of a glowplug intake valve is usually the larger one Tolsens advice is always spot on...but sometimes details are lost in translation
  6. heres another picture..too bad the owner didnt leave the glow plugs in to show the angle
  7. i like to put air into each cylinder while at top dead center and listen to exhaust and intake (and crankcase) to confirm diagnosis more before removal if its a valve it should be very obvious
  8. there is no spring in there its a rather acute angle...if it happened the same in each cylinder at same distance without rotating then it has to be flexing against the cylinder wall i dont have a picture but if i had to guess id say the glow plug enters the combustion chamber at about 45 degrees
  9. glow plug goes in at an angle..."spring" feeling was probably wooden dowel bending a bit when it touched piston
  10. based on the 3 bars mentioned...i would do the easy thing first...which is removal of clutch actuator and visual inspection of clutch release shaft hole ....
  11. if i remember right the engine is fairly slanted...and the piston has a combustion pocket perhaps the penetrating oil stayed in the pocket or only got part of the rings...and the extra oil was able to get around to all ring surfaces
  12. why post pictures of map sensor and then talk about actuator hose?,.. its almost like youre trying to confuse this person on purpose
  13. probably hand only since he used the word "reach" and probably not with just wheel off since he said "by removing the right hand side wheel arch"....by wheel arch he probably means the inner fender plastic shield i know for sure you can reach in from top of engine to tap on the connector with a tool ...ive done it myself ..not just guessing on that one
  14. the weight isnt bad... i remember lifting my engine and transmission assembly onto a work table by myself
  15. welcome to here i cant think of anything except for that brake pedal..at least youll get a thread bump it would be nice if someone made a cheap affordable basic ecm for these things ..to use them as stationary engines or engine swaps personally for dune buggy id have gone with something simpler and more horsepower like a newer snowmobile engine
  16. ^thats sounds about right except i wouldnt say air pressure is generated by exhaust turbine...id say the exhaust turbine is powered by the engine exhaust flow....which in turn generates pressurized intake flow i may be wrong but i think the confusion is that the "boost pressure" sensor is actually a map sensor ...only used for ecm the other wastegate actuator system is completely separate pressure operated system that works on its own (no ecm involved)
  17. thanks..thats good to know i still need to get in there to clean and put some grease on my connector ....the last wiggle is still working good but i know it wont last long
  18. sounds better than breaking a glow plug to use my homemade compression tester (which is just a hose from an old tester with a suitable 500psi gauge attached to a brake line that is brazed to a drilled out old glow plug)
  19. ive never seen corrosion or ethanol damage but i work on many types of small engine equipment and i can definitely tell which customers are using the regular fuel instead of premium on snowblowers for instance ...after sitting all summer the humidity in the air is enough to precipitate the ethanol from the fuel a glass jar is perfect for seeing this...generally youll see a small amount of water and then the fuel will have another separation ..you can clearly see the ethanol that settled out im always telling customers to use premium but id say at least half ignore me (and i dont mind because it pays my bills and carb cleanings are relatively easy)
  20. its pin 10... the one they mentioned in their post...and said they checked
  21. yes you need to lower the engine to change the starter but if you just need to jiggle the connection it is completely accessible from above with a long tool such as an extra long screwdriver (or like i said i used above a long 1/4 drive extension)..and some patience ...its just really hard to see if youre not sure what youre looking for the solenoid has a simple male terminal and the wire you want to jiggle is a plastic connector with a simple female connector inside it... its a tight spot ...i think you have to look thru the intake runners . the top of the solenoid will be very near the level where the head meets the block...the solenoid connector youre looking to wiggle will be almost centered with center cylindore bore here is a picture posted elsewhere on this forum that might help guide you if you decide to try looking again
  22. they do make a similar vice grip version but i prefer the princess auto ones because you can set them to lock at whatever gap you want ...the irwin vice grip version are designed to always clamp tight and needs too much resistance to stay closed
  23. maybe someday ill try it and report back if there is room and/or if it falls right now im ok with the temperature situation in my smart though they are self locking ...if they dont feel secure i would just tape them or wire them there...never had them slide off yet while using them for other things
  24. i dont have pictures but last month i had to wiggle mine and was able to do it right in the parking lot with a flashlight and a very long 1/4 inch extension you can see it from the top way down past the harness that feeds the injectors and glow plugs..best to do in the dark with a flashlight to see down there
  25. i havent tested a smart one so im not sure if you can even get in there enough to do this but my way of testing most normal thermostats is to manually open them a bit and pinch a wire in there...then hang it by the wire off the edge of a pot...and clip a thermometer to the side of the pot ...when it reaches the temp rating the thermostat should release its grip on the wire and fall in the pot