TheHandyHobbit

Regular Members
  • Content count

    205
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by TheHandyHobbit

  1. Sign up: 1. Liz & Glenn 2. Dot & Ron 3. Bill 4. Larry & Gail 5. Wild! 6. Todd 7. 8 9. 10.
  2. Sign up 1 - Ron 2 - Bill 3 - Liz & Glenn 4 - Bob & Candi (tentative) 5 - Todd 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 -
  3. Have any of you disassembled the Block Heater Cord? Mine is starting to experience stress where the wiring enters the plug. I'm assuming it comes apart since it has a plastic hex nut threaded into the plug body that is designed to accept a wrench. Seems pretty simple except I didn't know what to expect inside. Didn't want to open it up only to find it doesn't go back together without excessive grief.
  4. Correct. By removing the hex nut from the cable end and then carefully holding the "Gland" (protected with a cloth) with a set of channel locks, you can spin the barrel and un-thread it. It didn't come apart easily as there are 3 rubber grommets tightly holding it all together. I left the wiring as is, since it was still working. The insulation sheath on the cable had broken where it was connected to the clamp. I simply put the cable in the sun to warm it up and then worked (stretched) a long section of the sheath towards the plug until the 2 met again, as shown below. Sorry, not a very exciting thread, but maybe someone else has the same problem.
  5. My 2005 had the standard 3" "Transistor Radio" speakers. Swapped them out with the under dash factory Speaker boxes with the stock 6" Speakers. Night and Day full range sound difference now.............considering what we're working with.
  6. I agree. I find a very fine line for Tire pressure. 1 lb. or 2, up or down, makes a big difference. I check mine every couple of weeks. Never see any changes but it is a peace of mind thing. How many Smarts are running tire pressures of 40 psi (as an example) because a shop set it that way? Going to the other end of the spectrum; how many are running with 4 litres of engine oil in them? I've heard of a bunch over the years. People assume Service Shops know everything about everything. But what the the shops don't understand is that our unique vehicles are pretty much unique in every way and don't follow the same rules as "the norm". A few minutes a month is all it takes to check the basics and look for any oddities.
  7. Did you try googling the Part Number that is on it? I've done this on obscure items and found results.
  8. Same here; I received 3 fob cases and 3 key blanks from China about 3 months ago. The buttons are hard plastic with close to "Zero" flex. Seeing that, I didn't even try to swap over my circuit boards in fear of damaging the boards. Only cost me $5 CDN and thought it was too good to be true. A lesson learned!
  9. I like it, but how is it secured? Looks like the 4 corners are secured with some type of pressure pin connectors.
  10. Won't be able to start the car without the original Electronic FOB programmed specifically to your cars electronics. Somebody please verify this for me; but I believe you need the actual original key FOB to clone a 2nd FOB using a "Star" or similar machine. I had my original FOB when I had the "Backups" cloned.
  11. I have 3 sets of panels and have been toying with the idea of wrapping a set. Have finally settled on 3M 1080 Gloss Liquid Copper. Most pricing I've seen is is around $280 CDN for a 5' X 15' Roll. From the looks of things, the Speedfix clips can be easily removed to break the panels down into smaller sections and wrapped separately and reassembled so that the vinyl doesn't span any panel joints. Project is expected to commence this winter. Luckily I have the black Tridions, so the Copper should compliment them quite nicely.
  12. I ordered 2 keys from MB of London. Keys only, No FOBS. when I went to the Dealership, they only required my VIN # directly from my ownership along with Drivers License. They didn't confirm it against the car. The keys had to be cut in Germany based on the VIN #. It cost $90 and took a week to receive.
  13. From Above; "OE thermostat from Smart CDI is inadequately designed, only OEs are perfectly functional. This is the main reason that has prompted me to replace the thermostat (as a system) with that of the metal casing. Previous attempts to adapt a rubber sealing wax element have had a limited effect - in both DIY and AM versions. Therefore, I want to change the entire thermostatic body, the choice was everything, from aluminum and wax element with rubber gasket. The closest element is the WV T5 / 2.5TDI engine, Topran 112244. The body of the future thermostat is made of several pieces of aluminum that require many hours of milling. The diameter of the main tray of the wax element is 40 mm. The diameter of the spring support is 52 mm. The main tire is with rubber gasket without valve. Opinions about the present work?"
  14. It was definitely a crowd pleaser and always is. Here are the shots I have
  15. Unfortunate News. The “Smartzuki” Busa Powered 1300 will be making an appearance. You could have scoped it out to modify one of your Smarties.
  16. AGREED! I'm sure we are not the only ones who noticed this. I've also noticed the recent absence of numerous members. Hopefully it's because they are busy enjoying summer and will come back in the fall. On a side note: www.politicalforum.com (Forum for US and Intl Politics); Discussions: 252,665. Messages: 9,336,220. Members: 29,805. Couldn't find any discussions about EGR's, mapping, Clutch Actuators, Club Meets, Welcomes...............
  17. When my EGR packed it in a few years back, replaced it with a cleaned one from Glenn. Then we installed a blocking plate. Was going to install the emulator but put it aside. Knock on Wood.........but years later, The EGR is still busy doing nothing. If for some reason it starts throwing codes, I'll install the emulator. Saved having to fabricate anything.
  18. If you are referring to the 2 on the front grill; I'm running 2, H3 Hella Driving Lights. Google "Hella Micro DE Halogen H3 55W 12V Lamp Kit". A Site member designed a new bracket for the housing. They fit-in behind the grill like a glove. I've had them for 4 years and they are incredible.
  19. I saw your reference of the Redtek and how well it worked. I've used the Kit (Sealer and Top-up) several times on full size cars. Is there a special procedure for the Smarts? Amount of each canb, pressure, etc.

     

    Cheers,

    Todd

     

    1. Show previous comments  4 more
    2. TheHandyHobbit

      TheHandyHobbit

      Ah, good investigative skills. I never thought to look at the sheets. Makes perfect sense now. I'll try it out and let you know how it goes. Great Chatting with you, Todd

    3. LooseLugNuts

      LooseLugNuts

      no problem...i hope yours comes back working as mine did...i wish id tried it sooner ...i found new condensers in china dirt cheap but minimum purchase would have been 50 units

    4. TheHandyHobbit

      TheHandyHobbit

      Oddly enough; 50+ doesn't sound too bad since almost every smart's AC is messed up.

  20. That's why I call "Sally" my Mistress.............I just keep throwing cash at her and she keeps me "Happy"
  21. Sign up: 1. Bill 2. Ron & Dot 3. Liz & Glenn. 4. Todd 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
  22. AGREED! We talked about this on the weekend. The apparent disrespect in general towards Smarts also doesn't help.
  23. SIGN-UP 1. Bill 2. Ron & Dot 3. Larry & Gail 4. Liz & Glenn. 5. Todd 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
  24. PM Glenn (smart142). He just returned from vacation.