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About TorqueJunkie

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    London, UK
  1. Why is this piston kit so much (3x) cheaper? I have already gave the job to local mechanic and just guiding him with smart-specific stuff. I'm not from UK... As for bearing clearances, the internet says generally 0.2mm is fine. Is this right?
  2. Top surface of all pistons has some oily carbon deposits, but after that was cleaned off, they are like new. After googling around I see that 66.5 mm is a standard size. No idea who, why and how managed to find and install 0.5mm downsized pistons. About rebuilt long block, where can I get it at fair price? Also, what clearance should be in bearings? Will have to check if those are correct size...
  3. So I started hearing weird knocking noises from lower part of engine (roadster)... Good power, no smoke. During inspection, some pieces of piston were found in oil sump. Now I have the engine taken apart. All bearings are like new, all working surfaces are mirror like, no apparent damage, or excessive wear whatsoever. Cylinder is fine, no scratches. However one of pistons is shattered in pieces... 1. Any idea how this could happen? There were no codes for detonation, also no mechanical signs of it 2. What size pistons should be ordered? These seem quite loose: cylinders are 66.5mm, and pistons 65.9mm. 3. Second picture is of a valve, taken with endoscope, through spark plug hole. Should I replace the valves, or can they be ground down together with head inserts?
  4. I have pulled my plugs some time ago and have these pictures below. Basically, upper spark plugs have some white deposits, and lower exhaust ones have black carbon deposits. No issue, I just want to understand better. Slightly higher fuel consumption than advertised: 55 mpg at steady 60 mph, and 35 mpg in short-distance (5mi) city driving. Car: Roadster 452. Is it normal for plugs to be different in same cylinder? All three cylinders look consistent. Is the lower plug working too cold? Perhaps I could upgrade these lower plugs to hotter model?
  5. Thank you tolsen, this is a good suggestion and I actually have it done like that. But somehow it still did not help. Also note that it is now too late to follow it for people currently engaged in this topic.
  6. So basically there is no fix, just change the whole wheel?
  7. Not exactly a year, but I can confirm that no failures occurred with the chain, it runs very well.
  8. You first need to find a device thee, then select your ECU in it and then right-click. Very weird placement of a function, as if they wanted to hide it from us.
  9. Thank you tolsen, once again you save my ass. The function is quite well hidden and first time user has to do some (right)clicking around. I have successfully reset clutch learning and then recallibrated drag and contact points (two different procedures). It can also calibrate gear position sensor and cycle clutch actuator for several minutes for inspection. The box was two times cheaper than the no-name shop charges for the procedure. So it paid for itself twice in a single try. Nice.
  10. Hi guys, So I bought this toy as well. Somehow managed to activate the software (2013.3) and read some codes, but could not find any way to perform any kind of adjustments, like edit various parameters, run clutch calibration, etc.
  11. Evilution is actually a really good place to find info on smarts. Sadly not free.
  12. So was anyone able to calibrate the clutch on 450 petrol?
  13. Not sure if this is worn out or not, but it is quite loose, and I'm also hearing some rattling and loud metal-on-metal knocks on deep potholes (like the shock extends too quickly?).
  14. Swapped my wheels to summer ones today and had a good look around the springs. Everything seems to be in good order, springs are actually well preloaded even when fully extended. No loose joints in suspension or steering rack. I wonder where it is coming from... Battery is secured well, no play. I did, however, notice a play in steering wheel shaft. If I take a first shaft joint (on input of power steering) and wiggle it firmly, there is a considerable play somewhere on the other side of firewall, near steering wheel. The joint itself is ok, the two rubber bushings (that hold the steering rack) are also fine. Is there a third one somewhere? Steering is fine, no play in the wheel. Did not give it more attention than that, but I wonder why the shaft has so much play.. Also discovered failed rear shock bushings (all of them). Shocks are fine, so I wonder if those bushings are easy enough to change... Or does it make more sense to just change the whole shocks?