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About TorqueJunkie

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  1. Hi tolsen, I saw you have shared schematics some time ago, but I had some life emergencies and could not follow up with this. Would you mind sharing them again so I can download and get back to it once I am ready? Thanks.
  2. Thanks for pointing out the 451 CDI alternator, looks compatible. I wonder if the DFM pin is used and if B1/B2 are connected internally... Anyone has an electric schematic? I always struggle finding service manuals for these cars...
  3. I have found a need, the question is if it is possible to fit. The answer to your question is in first sentence of my initial post.
  4. I have no fear of no connector. If diesel one wants some extra signal, that's a different story. So, petrol pinout is: B+ D+ W+. From what I saw, D+ is not used, W is likely "charging" Lamp? Diesel pinout is: B1+ B2+ L DFM. B1 and B2 are likely connected internally? L is probably Lamp. DFM is new, called "DYNAMO FIELD MODULATION - Duty Cycle signal from the ECU". Not sure where this goes. Not a huge problem even if it's a PWM from ECU. Info on pinout:
  5. OK, thanks for your answer. Now, why?
  6. So I have found out that: Roadster alternator is rated at 75A, and has a 4-groove 58mm pulley. 450 0.8L CDI has a 85A alternator with 5-groove 54mm pulley. These look bit different, including connectors. Mount looks similar. Should fit? Also found several ebay listings for "97A" alternator, but that must be an error, right? Look identical to 75A model. £95
  7. Hi, I want to install an electric heater in a petrol car and probably would need more current at idle RPM. At idle, alternator can only provide around 40% of rated current (75A is rated at around 2500RPM). The questions are: 1. is alternator's pulley size different in diesel and petrol cars? From some pictures I found, diesel one seems to be bit smaller (= more RPM). 2. If different, are the alternators otherwise more or less compatible in terms of mounting to the engine? 3. Can I spin the alternator slightly faster than rated? In electrical theory there should be no problem.
  8. Car: roadster 450 petrol, engine similar to fortwo 450. Recently I started hearing very weird crackle noise on takeoff. Not much difference from accelerator pedal, but only happens on very low RPM on first gear, mainly while accelerating on clutch from dead stop. The noise is well pronounced and quite random, I hear maybe around 10 crackles until 10mph is reached, when noise goes away. The car drives normally, I can't hear it while at speed, at any load. I thought maybe it's clutch actuator, but hooked up my delphi box and started actuator cycling (engine off), which produced no weird noises. There are no codes on the ECU. Other idea is maybe clutch bearing... But not sure what noise it should make, also I can't her anything when switching at higher speeds.
  9. So I have an interesting sound system in my roadster: subwoofer under passenger feet and an amplifier behind the seat, with Brabus logo on it. I have looked around and could not find anyhing like it on the net. Anyone knows any specs or where can these be purchased?
  10. I simply hold it over sink and pour some boiling water in from a kettle. I don't really care how accurate it is, what matters is if it opens and then closes (right after boiling, temperature is maybe around 90-95C)...
  11. It is very strange to me how people spend 10 minutes with an answer, but don't spend 5 seconds reading the question first. GetSmart, your question has been answered at least twice. Diesel or not, 450 engine is very similar for both petrol and diesel, and also 452 roadster. Short update: all issues have been resolved now. The RPM limit of around 2700-3000 was quite interesting. Turns out, the engine will limit the RPM if two of ABS sensors (rear in my case) are not connected. You can switch through gears manually and go up to 100km/h in 6th gear just fine, if shifted before rev limit. Very weird, as I was expecting limit on speed, and not rpm. I hope it will be useful to someone reading this in future. One more weird issue I had: on an old engine I had a stuck thermostat and engine was overheating. With this new engine, the thermostat appeared to be stuck open, so it took forever to heat up. So I took an old thermostat (stuck closed) from my previous engine and tested it with boiling water. It works. That's strange. I have swapped the thermostats yesterday and now the car heats up and controls the temperature nicely. So that's a win. But what's even stranger, is that this "stuck open" thermostat also appears to be working just fine during boiling water test. What the hell? I do the test by simply pouring boiling water in to the housing of thermostat and observing it slowly open up one of ports. As soon as I pour in some of bit colder water, it closes.
  12. Thanks tolsen, will take a look. After some reading I see that my RPM limit at around 2.7-3.0k may also be due to EGR solenoid. Would I get a code in this case? I only have "rough road detected".
  13. It's not coolant. Drove it around for 50 miles or so and no more smoke, so it was oil in exhaust due to wrong orientation during storage... However thermostat is stuck open... I wonder why are these things so fragile, I already went through three of them. Incorrect coolant? ABS sensors are not yet connected and it is limiting RPM to around 2700. ECU has an error "rough road detected" Hopefully that will go away when ABS is sorted out. Gear position and clutch learning was a hassle... Somehow it did not want to perform half of adjustments, but after many restarts it finally went through. Of course you have to select model 450, as these Chinese Delphi boxes don't support adjustments on 452. Thanks again.
  14. Thank you guys, you gave me some fresh ideas. I have contacted the seller and he recalled storing the drivetrain tilted to the back for couple days and found a pool of oil under turbo, it leaked through inlet port (TIK pipe was removed). Since it still had exhaust attached, it is likely full of oil now... I will try to burn it off, as there is probably no other way to get rid of it. I'm bit afraid this will damage the CAT. I have checked brake fluid reservoir and it is full, also intake manifold is dry-ish, so probably not the cause. But very nice to learn about this possibility as well. My previous engine had a very interesting fail. It ran fine after rebuild, but was same amount of oilish smoke the second day and I found a pool of oil-ish liquid in one cylinder. I suspec maybe the head cracked, even though it was pressure-checked and faced before. I have removed it and got checked again, and it is fine. However they only check coolant lines, but not oil. I saw there is a method with red dye, maybe that will clear up things.
  15. Oh really. Okay. Please be kind and direct me to roadster/452 forum, if it exists. 452 is basically the same as 450, fyi.