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About TorqueJunkie

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  1. Thanks for pointing out the 451 CDI alternator, looks compatible. I wonder if the DFM pin is used and if B1/B2 are connected internally... Anyone has an electric schematic? I always struggle finding service manuals for these cars...
  2. I have found a need, the question is if it is possible to fit. The answer to your question is in first sentence of my initial post.
  3. I have no fear of no connector. If diesel one wants some extra signal, that's a different story. So, petrol pinout is: B+ D+ W+. From what I saw, D+ is not used, W is likely "charging" Lamp? Diesel pinout is: B1+ B2+ L DFM. B1 and B2 are likely connected internally? L is probably Lamp. DFM is new, called "DYNAMO FIELD MODULATION - Duty Cycle signal from the ECU". Not sure where this goes. Not a huge problem even if it's a PWM from ECU. Info on pinout:
  4. OK, thanks for your answer. Now, why?
  5. So I have found out that: Roadster alternator is rated at 75A, and has a 4-groove 58mm pulley. 450 0.8L CDI has a 85A alternator with 5-groove 54mm pulley. These look bit different, including connectors. Mount looks similar. Should fit? Also found several ebay listings for "97A" alternator, but that must be an error, right? Look identical to 75A model. £95
  6. Hi, I want to install an electric heater in a petrol car and probably would need more current at idle RPM. At idle, alternator can only provide around 40% of rated current (75A is rated at around 2500RPM). The questions are: 1. is alternator's pulley size different in diesel and petrol cars? From some pictures I found, diesel one seems to be bit smaller (= more RPM). 2. If different, are the alternators otherwise more or less compatible in terms of mounting to the engine? 3. Can I spin the alternator slightly faster than rated? In electrical theory there should be no problem.
  7. Car: roadster 450 petrol, engine similar to fortwo 450. Recently I started hearing very weird crackle noise on takeoff. Not much difference from accelerator pedal, but only happens on very low RPM on first gear, mainly while accelerating on clutch from dead stop. The noise is well pronounced and quite random, I hear maybe around 10 crackles until 10mph is reached, when noise goes away. The car drives normally, I can't hear it while at speed, at any load. I thought maybe it's clutch actuator, but hooked up my delphi box and started actuator cycling (engine off), which produced no weird noises. There are no codes on the ECU. Other idea is maybe clutch bearing... But not sure what noise it should make, also I can't her anything when switching at higher speeds.
  8. So I have an interesting sound system in my roadster: subwoofer under passenger feet and an amplifier behind the seat, with Brabus logo on it. I have looked around and could not find anyhing like it on the net. Anyone knows any specs or where can these be purchased?
  9. I simply hold it over sink and pour some boiling water in from a kettle. I don't really care how accurate it is, what matters is if it opens and then closes (right after boiling, temperature is maybe around 90-95C)...
  10. It is very strange to me how people spend 10 minutes with an answer, but don't spend 5 seconds reading the question first. GetSmart, your question has been answered at least twice. Diesel or not, 450 engine is very similar for both petrol and diesel, and also 452 roadster. Short update: all issues have been resolved now. The RPM limit of around 2700-3000 was quite interesting. Turns out, the engine will limit the RPM if two of ABS sensors (rear in my case) are not connected. You can switch through gears manually and go up to 100km/h in 6th gear just fine, if shifted before rev limit. Very weird, as I was expecting limit on speed, and not rpm. I hope it will be useful to someone reading this in future. One more weird issue I had: on an old engine I had a stuck thermostat and engine was overheating. With this new engine, the thermostat appeared to be stuck open, so it took forever to heat up. So I took an old thermostat (stuck closed) from my previous engine and tested it with boiling water. It works. That's strange. I have swapped the thermostats yesterday and now the car heats up and controls the temperature nicely. So that's a win. But what's even stranger, is that this "stuck open" thermostat also appears to be working just fine during boiling water test. What the hell? I do the test by simply pouring boiling water in to the housing of thermostat and observing it slowly open up one of ports. As soon as I pour in some of bit colder water, it closes.
  11. Thanks tolsen, will take a look. After some reading I see that my RPM limit at around 2.7-3.0k may also be due to EGR solenoid. Would I get a code in this case? I only have "rough road detected".
  12. It's not coolant. Drove it around for 50 miles or so and no more smoke, so it was oil in exhaust due to wrong orientation during storage... However thermostat is stuck open... I wonder why are these things so fragile, I already went through three of them. Incorrect coolant? ABS sensors are not yet connected and it is limiting RPM to around 2700. ECU has an error "rough road detected" Hopefully that will go away when ABS is sorted out. Gear position and clutch learning was a hassle... Somehow it did not want to perform half of adjustments, but after many restarts it finally went through. Of course you have to select model 450, as these Chinese Delphi boxes don't support adjustments on 452. Thanks again.
  13. Thank you guys, you gave me some fresh ideas. I have contacted the seller and he recalled storing the drivetrain tilted to the back for couple days and found a pool of oil under turbo, it leaked through inlet port (TIK pipe was removed). Since it still had exhaust attached, it is likely full of oil now... I will try to burn it off, as there is probably no other way to get rid of it. I'm bit afraid this will damage the CAT. I have checked brake fluid reservoir and it is full, also intake manifold is dry-ish, so probably not the cause. But very nice to learn about this possibility as well. My previous engine had a very interesting fail. It ran fine after rebuild, but was same amount of oilish smoke the second day and I found a pool of oil-ish liquid in one cylinder. I suspec maybe the head cracked, even though it was pressure-checked and faced before. I have removed it and got checked again, and it is fine. However they only check coolant lines, but not oil. I saw there is a method with red dye, maybe that will clear up things.
  14. Oh really. Okay. Please be kind and direct me to roadster/452 forum, if it exists. 452 is basically the same as 450, fyi.
  15. Short story: had thick white smoke, replaced full drivetrain and still have identical white smoke. It's not coolant. Long story: OK, I have a very weird one on my hands. My piston broke a skirt and I still drove it around like that, then it was rebuilt. The rebuild, due to lack of time, took good couple months, but it started right away. I drove it around for the first day and everything was fine. I come next morning, start it up... And after few seconds thick white smoke started pouring out of exhaust. The smoke does not dissipate like water vapour, ir hangs around until blown away by wind. Smell is not sweet, but strong oil-ish. Not exactly oil, and not exactly petrol. Smoke goes away when engine temperature reached around 40-50C. Pulled the plugs and one is soaking wet, same cylinder, so I guess that broken piston made the cylinder oval... Cylinders were honed and all. Just no idea why it was fine the first day. I was not going to rebuild it once again due to lack of time, so I decided to swap out entire drivetrain. I got a fine deal on ebay: 50k engine with transmission, all wiring and sensors, turbo and exhaust, drivetrain, springs, shocks, drums, everything, even oil... Seller even provided service history and a recent video of it running from cold start. Quick plug and play job, it seemed. So it arrived and I have quickly swapped everything. The only part I used from my old engine was TIK pipe, as replacement one came without it. So guess what. I start it up and... 5 seconds later thick cloud of white smoke. It starts, runs and revs fine, but with extra smoke. Pulled the plugs - all nice and dry. Intake manifold is dry, so it looks like oi is coming either from turbo or EGR... But both of these were replaced with the engine. Here's a video: Basically it starts with some residual smoke and exactly 15 seconds after it starts pouring the smoke. Anyone knows what cycles does an engine go through when started? Like pre-cat heater, aux air pump, etc? That's a replacement engine in the video, same deal as original one. I had a theory maybe the ECU failed (it is still same one) and is overfueling it, but I have checked all injectors - working fine. Also checked their timing - around 2.7ms. MAF sensor says 4 kg/h at idle and 20+ when revving lightly. Intake pressure sensor reports around 370hPa at idle and is also changing when revving. Upstream O2 sensor is jumping around 0.15-0.75V and downsream sensor is more or less stable around 0.65V. So all of my sensors seem to be working fine and fuel mixture is good. Only one weird thing though: ECU reports engine load at 28% when idling. Important to note: smoke goes away once engine temperature reaches around 40-50C. Some residual smell is still there, but almost no visible smoke. The new engine is running nicely. I have even probed it with stethoscope and it looks like a young one. So I am lost here. Is it possible to get these symptoms if any of those tiny air lines are mixed up around TIK pipe and turbo? Would I get such huge amount of white smoke if the turbo was shot, and would it disappear once up to temperature?