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About TorqueJunkie

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    London, UK
  1. Had to pull and reinstall all three pistons on this one. Was not sure if this is possible... So here it goes, it's a surely fiddly job, but still much quicker than splitting the block. And can be done on car. But you will need several 1/4" extensions, a telescopic magnet and a small diameter flashlight. Edit: post removed due to lack of interest.
  2. Apparently some oil burns are quite white. For example, when I had an incident with breather, smoke was thick white.
  3. Yes, same cylinder. If bore was damaged, I would expext the problem to be visible right away, and not the other day. I can't imagine how the situation could get so different over night, when now I know that rings are fine.
  4. It's a roadster. So I had knocking noises, but otherwise no other issues: no smoke, good acceleration, etc. Teared it apart and found a broken piston: So now the engine was rebuilt: fully rebuilt, tested and resurfaced head, all new gaskets, all new rings and, obviously, new piston. It started up right away, no issues there. I let it idle for one hour while rear bumper was being prepared, then It was calmly driven around for a few miles, and idled some more. It worked very well, sound is fine, good power, no smoke. I come the next day and start the engine. Starts nicely, but immediately there is a huge thick cloud of white smoke. It is almost odorless, but does not dissipate quickly. So I figure okay... the engine cooled down and maybe the gasket leaked. The tests were done: Spark plug in cylinder #2 is soaked wet, others are dry. Compression: good in all cylinders (~12.5) Removed all plugs and introduced some pressure in each. No hissing neither from intake, exhaust, oil or coolant. The confusion started when I saw a puddle of liquid (like 1/8th inch) on top of intake valve in cylinder #2. Endoscope also showed a puddle in the cylinder. The main source of confusion is that the liquid is oil(ish): it is oily just as oil, color same as oil (my coolant is bright green). If it's coolant, then why so oily and no color of a coolant? If it's oil, why white smoke and no odor, also where is it coming from? Is it possible that fresh oil (while is still clear) burns white and with much less odor? Other cylinders and intake manifold are dry, so not a turbo or breather. I have pulled a valve cover and replaced valve seals: same issue. So not a valve seal. Now I have pulled the head. Looks fine, no cracks or anything... Gasket looks fine, but hard to tell on these multilayer ones. Pulled all pistons. All look fine, rings are fine, gaps facing right directions, etc. So where is the problem, and what do I check next? Important to note that this happened over night: was fine in the evening, and smoked up immediately in the morning. Any ideas?
  5. So after all, are there aftermarket bushings available?
  6. Do I need new rings? The gaps are, from top: 0.4mm, 0.6mm, 0.8mm (oil).
  7. A single roadster piston is needed. Size: 66.5mm (standard) Pin diameter: 17mm (not 16). Also interested in new ring kit (all cylinders).
  8. Now I get what you meant. Yes, my piston pin is of "floating type" - held by retainer clips on both sides. The one I received is of press fit type - heat pressed in to the rod and is somehow being lubricated properly to work inside piston walls. The main problem is that pin diameters are different. Mine is 17mm, and this new one is 16mm. Very weird, as 17mm is hard to find.... If anyone has a leftover roadster piston with 17mm pin, I'll buy it off you... Let me know.
  9. I've heard about press fit pins, but there's nothing about press here... It just floats around in there. I hope I just don't know something, but looks like it's going back.
  10. So I risked it. Now I know it's only one piston, with rings and pin. Contacted the seller about it and he was like 'without being rude, you are naive'. Well, I was naive, expecting it to be as pictured, and he is being rude as well. Anyway there is a problem though: the pin does not have any mechanism to hold it in place. My original pistons have a spring ring, however this one does not, and pin can be easily moved around. I can see how this will damage the cylinder very quickly: Or is this normal?? How do I fix it in place?
  11. Why is this piston kit so much (3x) cheaper? I have already gave the job to local mechanic and just guiding him with smart-specific stuff. I'm not from UK... As for bearing clearances, the internet says generally 0.2mm is fine. Is this right?
  12. Top surface of all pistons has some oily carbon deposits, but after that was cleaned off, they are like new. After googling around I see that 66.5 mm is a standard size. No idea who, why and how managed to find and install 0.5mm downsized pistons. About rebuilt long block, where can I get it at fair price? Also, what clearance should be in bearings? Will have to check if those are correct size...
  13. So I started hearing weird knocking noises from lower part of engine (roadster)... Good power, no smoke. During inspection, some pieces of piston were found in oil sump. Now I have the engine taken apart. All bearings are like new, all working surfaces are mirror like, no apparent damage, or excessive wear whatsoever. Cylinder is fine, no scratches. However one of pistons is shattered in pieces... 1. Any idea how this could happen? There were no codes for detonation, also no mechanical signs of it 2. What size pistons should be ordered? These seem quite loose: cylinders are 66.5mm, and pistons 65.9mm. 3. Second picture is of a valve, taken with endoscope, through spark plug hole. Should I replace the valves, or can they be ground down together with head inserts?
  14. I have pulled my plugs some time ago and have these pictures below. Basically, upper spark plugs have some white deposits, and lower exhaust ones have black carbon deposits. No issue, I just want to understand better. Slightly higher fuel consumption than advertised: 55 mpg at steady 60 mph, and 35 mpg in short-distance (5mi) city driving. Car: Roadster 452. Is it normal for plugs to be different in same cylinder? All three cylinders look consistent. Is the lower plug working too cold? Perhaps I could upgrade these lower plugs to hotter model?