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About tyc

  • Birthday 09/11/1971

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  1. The procedure is explained in FQ101/evilution.
  2. An oil with different specifications is a type of oil that differs from another type of oil that has other specifications. For example, Shell T6 oil comes in 2 versions: T6 for America and T6 for Europe. In addition to the packaging, the content specifications also differ, it's slightly different. Only fully synthetic oils are recommended for Smart engines. I tried on the Smart CDI engine: Mobil 1 New Life 0W40 (very good), Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 0W40 (very good), Motul 8100 X-clean+ 5W30 (very good), Liqui Moly LL 5W30 (unsatisfactory) and others that I don't keep them anymore. It must be taken into account when selecting the oil for the Smart 450 CDI engine: - to be 100% synthetic - let it be 65-70 cSt@40C - to be cSt 10/10+ @ 100C - to be TBN 10/10+ - to be MB-Approval 229.5 The list of oils approved by Mercedes and for Smart is https://operatingfluids.mercedes-benz.com/sheet/229.5/en I avoided 0W30 (wears out the engine prematurely) and 5W40 (stresses the starter and the oil pump). The oil recommended by Smart is 5W30 Mobil 1. For all seasons. From personal experience with Mobil 1 0W40 it started well at -25C (that is, very good for that temperature and a 3-cylinder diesel engine). In Canada, there are different types of Mobil oil than the ones I use in Europe.
  3. SAM/ground cable under the dashboard / imperfect contact .It must be ascertained on the spot.
  4. At 450 prefacelift there is a problem with the light on, defective ZEE. If the light stays on and the car does not close, it is from a door switch - all doors have switches located in the die. I don't know about the 450 facelift.
  5. I searched using the o-ring number received from and found: http://dieselcatalog.online/en/bosch/04450/0445010025.html - injection pump Smart 450CDI (all 30kW variants) - Bosh F01M100114 - outer o-ring ID=45mm CS=3mm, graphite viton 1 pc - Bosh 1460283312 - oil retainer ring ID=17mm OD=28mm H=7mm, viton required 2 pcs.
  6. Sorry, the pump is CR/CP1K3/R45/10-6S.
  7. That's right. The oil retainer ring are placed face to face. One holds the oil from the cylinder head and the other the diesel from the injection pump. I will talk to someone who has an injection pump as a spare part and I will measure the shaft - it can be 17mm or 21mm. There are 2 types of oil retainer ring : 17x28x7 and 21x30x7.3 ... the measurement will be on Monday, now I can't go there - I have Zoster /(VZV)-DNA. Now I enter WIS, maybe there is a part code...
  8. I found on eBay original oil seals for injection pumps, but they are of 2 sizes: 1) F 01M 100 984 20mm x 31mm x7.3mm 2) 1 460 283 312 17mm x 28mm x 7mm
  9. Oil drips from the engine on the side facing the injection pump. It's extremely stressful to run the engine oil on foot. I checked the turbo drain pipe, it's ok and only the high pressure pump remains, more precisely its connection with the cylinder head. I want to replace the oil seals and the external o-ring of the pump, but I don't know what type they are. Viton for sure, but what are their dimensions? The pump model is CR/CP3S3/R70/20-8911S, BOSCH 0 445 010 025, A660 070 00 01. Does anyone know?
  10. Change the alternator belt. Check if the alternator and water pump rotate easily before installing the belt.
  11. If it takes effort to close the door, it means that they are out of order. As well as the back door. It is also possible that the rear (polycarbonate) corner windows are not sealed, but this is evident by the presence of water in the carpeting... it may also be from the fire panel, but for this the dashboard (set) must be removed. So, first of all, adjust the doors to close very well, with minimal effort. The first step and then come back with a feedback.
  12. In 2014, when I put a CDI motor in the frame, I tried to start it without having to replace the electrical installation before I connected it. 4 months I did not find out the reason why it does not start - I changed L8, wires, computers etc and nothing. In the end I noticed that the connector on the L8 is similar to the one on the high pump and I changed them between them. Surprise, the engine started right away! They are the only connectors from Smart CDI that can be reversed.
  13. Anyway, Ali & Co are slow and if we turn to them we still don't have a car. I have to find a hub and key (metal lamella) as well as the luggage lock paired with that lamella.
  14. The OM660 .940 engine (Smart CDI) if it does not start can be the following major causes: 1. Wrong placement of the flywheel (if it has been removed) 2. low compression (try hot air on the intake) 3. Reverse the CPS connector with the high pump connector (if the engine electrical installation has been disconnected from the body). 1. This cause is difficult to find so it remains the last. The flywheel mounting plate has a position key on which the flywheel must be placed - the side grooves on the flywheel synchronize the ignition. The flywheel can be placed differently, imperceptibly. 2. Compression can be measured - a real compression test is welcome 3. For 2 weeks I kept trying to start an engine where the connectors were reversed - in the end, I reassembled the installation and then I discovered the error because the wires were no longer reaching. The engine started normally after that.
  15. I got into the car by destroying the trunk latch. I bought an ignition key + linkage. Somewhere I found 2 remote controls and synchronized them with the SAM. Now is 2 remote and 1 metalic key .