tyc

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About tyc

  • Birthday 09/11/1971

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    România

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  1. Then check the wastegate valve. How to find clips on youtube. If this does not work, change the valve actuator. Attention to adjust rod!
  2. Intercoooler broken. Change / repair the intercooler cruiser, clean the oil with a cloth (raw) and brake spray (at the end). This operation (intercooler change) is required only if the intercooler is perforated hard. A picture of both sides of the intercooler? It can be done without dismantling - by introducing an inspection chamber (or web camera) into the intercooler outlet under the car. This can be difficult but much more difficult to dismantle intercooler.
  3. To compensate for the exaggerated play of the bow, I carefully gripped the first and last springs of the stainless steel spring.
  4. Last night I put an aluminum bolt at the end of the wax element .
  5. As soon as possible, if I find the rest of the material, namely: - nipple for bypass - nipple for cabin heater - aluminum bar (or PTFE) for the end of the wax element - lathe available. The most important thing is the time ... I work on the thermostat "between drops"
  6. From a past project: (detail yokes)
  7. I increased the hole in the case for matching the thermostat. Also a thread on the end of the wax element. Thermostat size (comparative)
  8. The wax element works, and yet we have encountered problems with temperature regulation. The plastic materials used in the manufacture of the casing are not good for the proposed purpose - they have succumbed due to temperature and mechanical stress. That's why I chose the metal. I have the possibility to make the new plastic case but I do not want a plastic thermostat! Cracked plastic thermostat I know, recently happened on a hard road, the car is Smart 450 CDI Brabus and the road is a difficult one.
  9. This procedure I will apply. The device they have is different (on a principle different from Venturi).
  10. The place where the plug is mounted on the wax element through the thread (M8x1.25) .
  11. Today I made a key for fixing the thermostat housing. I also fit the thermostat. The role of the bypass circuit in the cooling circuit is to protect the engine in the event of the heating matrix clogging - until the thermostat opens. This also leads to difficult heating in cold weather. Tolsen solved the problem by restricting the bypass flow. Restriction leads to valve closure. My thermostat has no valve (I can see how the air blows out!) And the efficiency of the Tolsen restrictor is limited. I am thinking of a presostatic controlled solenoid valve - if the pressure in the circuit increases to a certain preset value then the solenoid valve opens. The same situation and if the temperature reaches 100C - anyway, do not want cracked hoses. Installing the solenoid valve and the electronic control circuit will be stage 2 and will only occur if the results are poor. For the time being, I will only handle the thermostat - I hope the next winter is true. I'm looking for material for the new bottom of the wax element
  12. So you really lucky. At me, the temperature did not pass 2 bullets @ 134,000km. I changed the thermostat to a new one but ran only 30,000km. Now the car runs with the empty thermostat housing but gets very hard at 80C (in 25km).
  13. OEM Thermostat from Smart CDI is inadequately designed, only OEs are perfectly functional. This is the main reason that has prompted me to replace the thermostat (as a system) with that of the metal casing. Previous attempts to adapt a rubber sealing wax element have had a limited effect - in both DIY and AM versions. Therefore, I want to change the entire thermostatic body, the choice was everything, from aluminum and wax element with rubber gasket. The closest element is the WV T5 / 2.5TDI engine, Topran 112244. The body of the future thermostat is made of several pieces of aluminum that require many hours of milling. The diameter of the main tray of the wax element is 40 mm. The diameter of the spring support is 52 mm. The main tire is with rubber gasket without valve. Opinions about the present work? English translation is not the best, sorry. I hope, however, to understand the idea I want to convey. You're right. I'm intolerant to cold - probably from a motorcycle. I think if the engine works properly and the temperature is the right one. In the sense of optimization, I want to do something simple on the diesel cooler ... We did the leak test and the result was 0.00ml leakage. Test liquid - water, laboratory - washbasin. I filled the elbow and for 5 minutes I recorded 0.00ml leakage, the tissue paper was not moistened. So far everything is fine, but what can I expect? This thermostat opens faster (87C vs. 90C OE Smart) and more brutal (1257mm2 vs 177mm2 OE Smart, in section). The engine for which the Topran was designed is a 2.5 liter but knows a 1590mm2 thermostat made for a 1.9 liter engine ...
  14. Termostatul OE de la Smart CDI este proiectat inadecvat, doar OE-urile sunt perfect funcționale. Acesta este motivul principal care ma determinat să înlocuiesc termostatul (ca sistem) cu cel din carcasa metalică. Încercările anterioare de a adapta un element de ceară de etanșare din cauciuc au avut un efect limitat - și în versiunile DIY și AM. Prin urmare, vreau sa schimb tot corpul termostatic, alegerea a fost totul, de la aluminiu si element de ceara cu garnitura din cauciuc. Cel mai apropiat element este motorul WV T5 / 2.5TDI, Topran 112244. Corpul viitorului termostat este fabricat din mai multe bucăți de aluminiu care necesită multe ore de frezare. Diametrul tăvii principale a elementului de ceară este de 40 mm. Diametrul suportului arcului este de 52 mm. Anvelopa principală este cu garnitură de cauciuc fără supapă. Opiniile despre lucrarea prezentă?