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About GMC28

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  1. Thanks for the input/support on this. All good now. Or at least so far.... Took a while to get the harness/plug from Germany, and as noted above i'm not convinced I had to have that, but it did make it a better/cleaner repair, especially for the long term. Observation or two to share: The fuel pump and low beam pins were in fact a bit heat damaged, at least on the plastic part of the plug. The failed right beam's pin (metal, on the sam) did still put out the 12v, so the SAM is ok. But I found that the fuel pump wire had been (poorly) previously jumpered to the windshield wiper lead. Hmm. I'm assuming perhaps the fuel pump failed on the previous owner, probably due to the heat damage on the plug, so someone jumpered it to get it back on the road, and then just left it that way. I waffled back and forth and then finally decided, probably not wisely, to leave that jumper in place, but fixed it up for a proper connection. Couldn't think of a real down side, other than it just seems wrong, and then other than possibly having the connection fail again (unlikely with new relay setups) and not being able to realize that had happened because of the jumper, but am i missing something else as to why that would be bad? And the whole SAM was just sort of jammed up in there in that under-dash space, not really attached to anything. Another clue that maybe the jumper was there due to a road side fix, done in somewhat of a hurry in the past by PO. I re-connected it when all done to the aft (closest to driver) attach points, which I saw tucked up there, but it's just resting oddly on nothing really at the front end, as the brackets up there weren't attached and didn't quite make sense to how they were supposed to be laid out. hard to explain, but in short the only way i could make sense of how it was supposed to attach up front didn't seem to work. But i'll admit that with a bad shoulder I wasn't super eager to spend more time contorted up in that space. I'll have to watch that, and maybe take more steps on that... The new, extra relays (low beam and fuel pump) worked slick, and its set up to where it should be reasonably easy to pull it all apart again later if needed for any reason. I just ended up laying the relays one on top of the other up there, with wires cut to fit, so things didn't really want to move. Made me slighlty uneasy to not mount the relays, but on the whole felt that the combo of my difficulty contorting myself in that space, plus the fact that those relays would be hard pressed to move from where i have them tucked in with proper wire lengths, let alone be caused to malfunction because of any serious movement, allowed me to justify giving in to the dark side and leave them as is, just tucked in and laying there on top of the sam. In the end its good to have it back on the road. Getting to wet to ride (comfortably) here in Oregon, and the truck is too thirsty!
  2. All good there, though thanks in any case. Am comfortable with the relay use and installs, being a foolish fan of older italian motorbikes, where such "upgrades" are commonly required. Burnt wiring on several of my older bikes was a common thing, and now I pro-actively upgrade them when i get another one, without waiting for symptoms to show up. I was just musing about the logic of where the weak spot in the original system is/was, and i agree the pins would be the logical choke point if running 5+ amps through each connection, though the connectors themselves could also be the weak spot. No question the upgrade you've all done and pointed me to well addresses the issue. Ordered the plug today from MB down here. Will come from Germany, so 7-10 days out.... many thanks! the mighty 3 cylinder still puts a smile on my face.
  3. The light "spray" from LED's and some HID's i know is an issue, though my understanding is that there are solutions for that now available... but i haven't dug into it. And I'm probably missing something obvious, as it doesnt' sound quite right, but a 55w halogen draws 4.5 amps? Seems high. But if thats right, then that x2 low beams, plus the DRL lights (etc), so over 10amps, would seem a heavy continuous load for those wires and especially those pins (as Looselugnuts noted). I must be missing something easy?
  4. Ok. I just try and avoid the MB dealer (of course), as we share a mutual with my PITA car and them with their pricing, distance, and hassle factor. I'mnot finding any good leads online for other options for a new plug. There are a few German web sites that appear to mention it, but that won't be any better than my MB dealer. I'll see about cleaning up what i have, but will get with the local MB folks and see if i can get that plug coming. This topic is well beaten up, and thx to all for the quick enlightenment for me. But while I'm on it, a related question of less importance: I assume the root of the issue stems from smaller gauge wiring (etc) leading to heat issues, which in turn leads to various symptoms that ultimately cause failure (of the juice to flow). Common issue in most of my older Italian motorcycles, and upgrading wiring and connectors is usually the fix. In this case we have the SAM, so we're stuck with certain elements there, assuming someone doens't want to really get in deep. But is it true that the output from the SAM is what directly powers the low beams? We're adding the relays and the fresh (and larger) power supply for the low beams and fuel pump, so that makes sense. But if an excess of current flowing through such a small gauge wire (and perhaps lower grade wire? And/or connectors...) is the issue, then would converting to LED headlamps with their smaller current draw also be a way to avoid the issue perhaps? (Too late for many of us either way if the heat damage is already present). If so, that wouldn't do anything for the fuel pump, but just curious.... either improve the supply side of things, or reduce the draw?
  5. You mean just clean up the plug that I have? i took a quick look at it tonight (finally had a chance to get it into garage for a minute after work), and the one low beam pin area does look a little wrong, though not horrible. Next I'll pull the plug apart, and see it looks for heat damage underneath. Fuel pump pin area looks normal, at first glance, but will do the mod anyway as suggested.
  6. Pulled the 450 cdi out of summer storage, and got her ready for the wet season (mostly ride the 2 wheeled type moto's all summer), which involved some good input from Mike T and the rest in figuring out why my right low beam was dead! With just an 8 mile each way commute to work in the winter, it only gets about 3000 miles a year of use. gathering some loose ends to do the "relays upgrade" for low beams and fuel pump, and get 'er back on the road soon. Leaves me a few more days to ride, with the sun deciding to come back for one more show this week in Portland.
  7. Anyone have a lead on where to get that replace/repair harness? I'm in the US, so maybe a bit trickier? unless its a common thing to get from MB down here, or RockAuto, or one of those. But if its an aftermarket source, which one, and what are they calling it (part number or name)? And I see now the many more threads on this topic, so thanks for the replies, which I assume gets a little old ..... But most say do the relays for the fuel pump and low beams, though someone mentioned the DRL (driving lights?). If so, I don't see a driving light circuit on the Evilution SAM pin out. What do those run off of.... meaning what's that circuit called? (If its the Low beam circuit, that would make sense.) I do run the driving lights, or "parking lights", all the time, though I'm running little LED's up there so the draw on that end of things is small (wouldn't change the Sam output i suppose).
  8. Some guys mentioned using a single relay and the new large gauge feed direct from battery as being fine for feeding both left and right beams (from the one relay). Any reason not to do this, other than wanting the redundancy to not cause both beams to fail in case case a relay fails?
  9. makes sense. I'll grab some relays tomorrow. Mike used 30a for the headlights... that sound ok for fuel relay as well?
  10. actually mike, i may have just answered my final question, based on what you wrote in the other forum on this... I managed to miss that you're using the lead from the one good sam headlight circuit.... But, if the one good relay in the sam is still usable, what keeps a guy from just using that one relay to power both low beams by just tying the one sam output to both low beam wires at the harness?
  11. thanks mike - I think I have the right "how to" on that from you... Oct 31, 2015? Any advice on running down that replacement harness online? Or is it true that if do as you've done, then I'm bypassing the harness anyway i suppose, so no need? Nice write up, and most of it is pretty clear for me, but did you or do you have a quick sketch diagramming what you described? the narrative and pics are excellent, so its pretentious of me to ask for more, but would like to confirm a couple things, and a rough sketch would be great, if you're game. Just if you're game... either way, this is what i was looking for, so thanks again!
  12. right low beam stopped working. No big deal, so replaced it. Still didn't work. Hmm. The filament on the old bulb actually looked ok too, so more evidence that something else is wrong. Swapped left and right low beam fuses (22 & 23), and no change (left low still works, and right low still dark), after noting that neither fuse looked bad to begin with. Did a quick voltage check on the wire harness/connector at the bulb, and seems to be dead, though thats not 100% reliable because reaching in there is challenging (just did the quick change method to acces bulb from top.... have not removed the front end yet). I got the probes into the sockets using braille, and should be a good check, but again, not 100% reliable check at this point. Will go back to that later when the front is torn off. Did some poking around on the forum for more ideas, and will do some more, but before I tear it apar I'm fishing for hot tips on what the issue might be. next step would be Verifying that 22 & 23 are the correct fuses for the bulbs (i pulled the one fuse and the left low beam quit, so that appears to proof enough most likely). Then i guess tear the front end off and start chasing wires. Hopefully has some good smoking-gun type clues....? cheers
  13. If you use the polish blanking plate and cheater plug, its not a bad deal, but I had to "enhance" the blanking plate to make it work, as i had the blanking plate develop a tiny bypass leak that made it "trumpet" when laying on the throttle. Used the advice on this forum and installed a genuine canadian nickel (pretty sure it was nickel...) under the blanking plate, and its been great ever since (about a year and a half now). Reaching in there to access the lower mounting screw for that blanking plate was a barrel of fun, and could bring on more of the german car ptsd you mentioned... I upgraded the bolts/hardware while I was in there, in case i ever need to pull it out again. had to drill out and heli-screw the lower little bolt out originally.
  14. ah yes.... I have a fresh set in the shop on the shelf. maybe time to get serious about those finally.
  15. Been looking over threads trying to find something like what i have, but so far not seeing anything.... Over the last few weeks in the 06 Cdi i've had a few instances now of driving at "normal" speeds, usually arond 35-45 mph, under light or no acceleration (thats not a scientific statement, just what I believe from memory), and the car will suddenly lurch, as if an axle just locked (or engine quit in a low gear, or transmission was suddenly in a much lower gear... these are all just attempts at explaining what I don't yet understand) momentarily, perhaps half a second, I'll see the hint of a flash of a warning light on dash (anti-skid or traction?), and than back to normal. You're just about to piss yourself, and then all fine. No codes, (well, nothing showing on dash... i have yet to plug in and check for a lingering code, which i'll do tonight), no other obvious symptoms. It runs sweet, (and with my new ball joints and sway bar ends it drives nice too!), but this little episode that i've experienced now about 3 times in as many weeks has me scratching my head. Hopefully someone has some enlightenment to share?