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About Jocko

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    West Island, Montreal, Canada
  • Interests
    2000 Honda VFR 800
    2000 V70 Volvo

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  1. OK so I guess the jury is in. I'll be replacing the scoop. So this is why I had so much trouble replacing the scoop. Lowering the sub frame sounds like a PIA so I'm liking the idea of the tie wrap. This is the exact reason it was loose and knocking around back there and why I removed it. The one side just would not go in. I had made a metal scoop on the bottom and fastened it with sheet metal screws. It seems to have toughed the abuse but I'll probably go the way of the plastic jug just to get a better aerodynamic. BTW I notice the bolt was missing near the top of the scoop. Anybody know what size bolt that is? Thanks again for all the feedback and keep up the good work.
  2. After replacing my holed intercooler and shaving the plastic piece next to the new intercooler so it doesn't hole my new one, I had a heck of a time connecting the 2 plastic pieces back together after I was done. Long story short. It was making a racket because it was half broken and hard put back in properly so I decided it was easier to just yank out the plastic going under the car. The scoop was ripped off on the first snow bank as anyone who has driven this car in winter can attest. The car runs fine without it but... The question whether this will this have any noticeable impact on the cooling of the intercooler and is it worth the effort to replace it? Thanks for your opinions
  3. Normand Comeau Auto

    This is a small one man operation but he specializes in Smart cars. General repairs to all model, 450, 451 and Electric. Everything from oil changes and clutch adjustments to turbo replacements and suspension work. Also a very advanced scanning tool to diagnose the vehicle. It is outside Montreal but worth the drive. The shop rate is also very reasonable.
  4. Thanks for the clarification of the Inlet air temp in the intercooler and pump Tolsen, I guess I'm not the first to confront this issue but it seems rare. It is a major PIA because the clip appears OK until you pull on it and only with a more advanced diagnostic tool does the code show up. The high pressure pump being disconnected doesn't throw a CEL but does put the car in Limp Home mode none the less. In any case we should add it to the list of possible reasons for a Limp Home mode. Especially if you've been working on the car.
  5. Hey Folks, So I finally broke down and decided to have the turbo looked at in my 450 by and independent garage. A short recap. Last summer, from one day to another I lost boost in the car. The question was always, was it a lack of boost or Limp Home mode? The car didn't throw a code or CEL so I started digging. 1. the hose from the EGR to the turbo - It happened to me before when I repaired the intercooler so I reinstall the pipe. - no change 2. EGR is stuck - I remove and check it. I had put a blocker plate last year - Nope slides perfectly 3. intake pressure sensor mounted near the dipstick - Nope 4. intake pressure sensor mounted on the intercooler - Nope in tight. 5. limp home mode. - disconnect the battery for 10 minutes - Still no power 6. leaky waste gate pressure hose (the short one that goes from the turbo high side barb to the actuator head) - Looks good 7. Struck waste gate - Lubed and loosen but seemed OK. I lengthened the arm to see if it was not sitting well - Nope 8, Bad Intercooler - I changed out the Intercooler with a used one but in good condition and pressure tested. 9. Bad turbo - I removed the intake and it looked clean with no broken fins or free play 10. Pressure test with a rubber clip and a plastic plumbing fitting that I connected a fitting to connect to my compressor. Block off the Intake to the motor with a plastic sheet and see if it holds boost. - No leaks. Finally I brought it to a independent garage I found who deals almost exclusively in Smarts. He found the problem in no time with a more elaborate code reader. His code reader showed a problem with the high pressure pump. ** It was the connector to the high pressure fuel pump. ** Somehow the connector was inserted but not clipped in to the end. When he pulled it came off in his hand! He plugged it back in and the car ran like it was new. $60 and it was fixed! After all of the hours I spent trying to figure it out. I highly recommend this garage if you're in the Montreal area and need service for your car. If, like me, you cannot stand bringing your car to the Stealership where you get robbed blind. The owner is Norman Comeau 200 BOUL LAURIER, McMasterville, QC J3G 1P8 He is very knowledgeable and showed me exactly the issue without a big production. I love my 450 and people ask me often if they should consider one. I always have to say that they are great if you know how to fix them because I have never found a garage that knew anything about them. Also, as some may recall my experience with the dealer borders on litigation. I can now recommend the car with the knowledge that someone can have it serviced at a reasonable price by competent mechanic.
  6. Cool! I didn't know you could put Seafoam in a diesel. I haven't been using any additives in my CDI.
  7. Back to the turbocharger for a minute. LOL I was looking at this video which some of you with turbo issues have probably seen. This guy seems to change it fairly easily by splitting it down the middle but towards the end I do notice the new bolts on the manifold and the exhaust of course. What are the odds you could change the turbo like this? It's in German so you can practice your highschool German or lower the sound but over all a great video.
  8. Hey guys! Meanwhile back at the ranch... For the record - I'm with Tolson on the emulator. I just blanked off my exhaust supply to the valve years ago and have not had problems since. I just wanted the emulator to rule out a faulty EGR unit. I think Smart142 is right and its the damned turbo. I redid the boost leak test and it sounds like the turbo is leaking. Probably the seals near the bearings. This is why I get some boost but as the pressure increases it bleeds off. Mileage is 170k How have others made out with the turbo swap? Do I get it done or give it a whack myself? I'm pretty well equipped but no torches. With the bumper off it looks pretty straight ahead but I found a guy who quoted me 4 hrs. to do the job and it sounds tempting. I've seen 2 ways to do this. One is to remove just the turbo unit and just swap out the core via the big C clip and the other is to take the whole exhaust manifold and replace the whole unit - manifold, WG and turbo. I was going to do the "remove only the turbo" way. What are the odds that I break any or all of the 3 bolts holding the turbo on the manifold? This is my main concern and why I don't want to remove the exhaust manifold. I'm sure to break at least a few studs in the engine block and have to go fishing to get them out. The muffler bolts are a given. They only break off. All the bolts have been soaking in penetrating fluid but still experience has taught me. I have a supplier near me - - and they can provide a rebuilt turbo the next day. They can provide the core or the whole setup with the manifold. Another member recommended them and they look legit. Opinions are welcome. Any gotchas I should know about? The oil lines look OK but should I replace them anyway while I'm at it? Thanks
  9. So its Good News - Bad News Good News is - no damage to the car. I wired the Emulator properly and have no codes. The car starts and runs fine. Bad News is- The car runs the same as before in Limp Home Mode. So I think it's safe to rule out the EGR. Next is to do another boost test to see if I have a leak somewhere. Maybe a weak hose with a pin hole or cut in it somewhere. I had done a quick check once before and didn't find anything. I'll do a more thorough inspection this time and while I'm at it I may spin the valve like recommended or delete the EGR all together. I'll keep you posted.
  10. Well there's your problem! I'll get around to soldering up the right way on Saturday. I didn't drive the car since I installed it so I'm hoping it's alright. Thanks guys I'll let you know how I make out.
  11. I just got the module. No instructions but yeah I used the diagram you posted and the wire numbers to match. That post BTW is 30 pages LOL but yeah I breezed through it. I guess only Stickman can give us the answer. I just assumed the rest were in order. You did notice almost all the wires are the same color. It makes it all the more challenging. Why 1 grey one? Just to mix it up a bit?
  12. It almost sounds like the fuel pump cut out while you where driving. Mine had the courtesy of letting go when I was a home. You can try to hot wire it directly to the fuse box. I don't remember which pin melts (11?) in the SAM but you can find it in the Fuel Pump Relay How to. I just cut the wire from the Sam then added a bit of wire and put a spade clip on it . I connected one end of the spade to a 30A fuse and the other to the box. Its a quick test. I thought my fuel pump under the seat was running too but it wasn't. This is like the headlights where the SAM pins are not designed to handle that many amps. A quick hot wire and I was up and running again. You can clean it up with a relay later but I didn't bother.
  13. Here is the emulator installed. I presume the pin 1 is the first wire on the right and the pin 5 is last on the left with the rest just following 2 3 4 with 3 being the grey. The odds are 50/50 I got it right.
  14. I've been going in circle for months with this. This is the point. I have NO error codes with the EGR in but the car is still in limp home mode. The emulator is just cheaper than buying another EGR to test to see if the EGR is causing the limp home mode. Also why turning the valve doesn't matter because it's plated. It doesn't get dirty because no exhaust is getting in the EGR. The valve moves no problem. I was hoping it was an fault in the EGR that didn't pop a code but caused a limp home mode. At least now I have an error code and limp home mode and the car still drives the same. I'll keep at it and drive it anyway until get the emulator working properly.
  15. You can clean the valve with Carb Cleaner with it still in the EGR and it will move freely. This would resolve the code when ever I would get one. Usually it's just the valve that's stuck. Since I plated it I haven't had a code. I'm getting a code now with the Emulator. The EGR isn't connected.