Jocko

Regular Members
  • Content count

    69
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

1 Follower

About Jocko

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Island, Montreal, Canada
  • Interests
    2000 Honda VFR 800
    2000 V70 Volvo

Recent Profile Visitors

176 profile views
  1. Hi foks, Anyone know where a guy can get an EGR emulator? I did a quick look on the web and nada. It seems even our Polish friend has run out. Other ideas?
  2. Check the TC rings on all of the wheels. I'm not sure exactly what they're called but they look like gears on the inside near where the axle meets the backing plate of the brake. The TC sensor uses them to check the speed of each wheel. Sometimes they split and slide on the axle. This will trigger the TC (traction control). Sometimes you can glue them back and they'll work for a while.
  3. So in the end it's a good news / bad news kinda story. Glad to hear you got er running.
  4. I did a turbo leak test with a plastic and rubber deal I made and it holds boost. It's pointing to the EGR. Any one know where I can get an emulator these days?
  5. Check the pins in the SAM. The fuel pump one (11 i think) tends to fry with time. Too many amps on a crappy pin. Why they didn't put a relay is another topic. I could be just a loose connection in the SAM to the fuel pump. I just hot wired mine to the fuse box with a fuse in between. Super easy and it will probably need to be done if that isn't the cause.
  6. OK so what I need now is a list of things that can make the car go limp home/safe mode but won't necessarily throw a code. The Waste gate will do this sometimes but I checked it and it moves freely and it's manual. The EGR may do it. - I'm tempted to unplug the clip and provoke a code to see if by clearing it I can get it back to normal. The piston moves free and the solenoid looks OK. I had put a block plate a while back so it's oily but not crusty. I did notice a bit of oil in the IC and the intake hoses but would a blocked rebreather valve cause a limp home? I'm going to pull off the wheel and check the alternator. It squeeks a bit but who knows at this point so may a well check that. Can anyone think of anything else? Thanks for the support.
  7. UPDATE! So I got back under the car today. I undid the intake to the turbo to check the impeller and for piece of mind. Started the car and the turbo sucks air no problem and sounds good. = It's NOT the turbo. Took off the actuator only to find it's a sealed unit. I open the boot to clean and check as much as I could. Sprayed some white grease as Tolsen recommends and buttoned it back up. The connector is intact and clean. The transmission wires ditto. I'm anal about loose wires so I tend to tie wrap everything so it's tight and doesn't rub or chafe. These motors shake a lot and wreck havoc on the wires and hoses if they rub. So lets forget the turbo, IC, the hoses, the actuator. I checked them all twice Lets call this is a case of limp home/ safe mode with no codes. WTF am I supposed to do with that? Please don't tell me to go to MB! Anything but that! They're such losers. They can't even do a proper brake job, forget diagnose something like this. I'll bet money that I go there and they tell me it's the turbo and charge me $3k? This is of course after I just checked it and it works fine. Any takers?
  8. Yeah I was kinda thinking along your train of though and was thinking electrical. I seem to have seen this in a thread somewhere before but its the usual suspects - the EGR valve or the waste gate. Even with a holed IC it still revved to 4k so it's not an boost leak. Maybe a sensor somewhere that I'm unaware of? I can hear the turbo spin and I get good acceleration up until it starts to build boost or 3k which ever comes first which made me think it was a boost leak and why I changed out the IC again but now I would rule it out. The car ran fine. I got out of the car to run a errand (20 min) got back in and started driving - no boost. Usually you restart the car and the boost comes back but not this time. Its out for good. I have a scanner but it didn't throw a code. No CEL. Nada! It just won't rev, Even with no load. in neutral - floored I only get 3k. Sounds like safe mode but I did the disconnect the battery thing and nothing changed. Another weird thing happened the other day but it may be unrelated. I'm still driving the car but using the paddles because it won't rev high enough to shift in automatic. I usually leave it in auto. All at once the actuator gets all fuddled and I get the 3 bars of death. First time in this car. So I don't panic (much) and I shut off the car, wait 10 secs and restart. Transmission is OK. Alright that's weird! Almost like it didn't have enough electrical power. I'm going to look at the actuator tomorrow but would a battery on it's way out cause this type of problem? I'll check the alternator too while I'm at it. It's almost like the fuel pump isn't getting enough power or creating enough pressure. I rewired the fuel pump directly to the power via a fuse in the fuse box rather than do the relay when the pin went out on the SAM this winter. Could the fuel pump be starved by a bad fuel filter? The air filter is really dirty but I did the same test with the filter removed and still 3k. I checked the ground wires and they're OK. I could throw the battery on the charger but its summer and the car is used regularly so I doubt its the battery. Thanks for the input, I'm gonna keep looking why it won't rev. It sounds and feels like limp home mode or safe mode
  9. Hi fellow Smart Fixers Here is the deal. A few weeks ago my Smart (160k) starts making a high pitch whistling sound. Like a boost leak. I think - It sounds like the Intercooler has sprung a leak. I had repaired the holes in the old IC with JB Weld. The car works well but makes this crazy whistle sound. Bonus! I find an intact (not holed) intercooler on Kijiji. On the weekend I switch out the IC. Everything looks hunky dory. I have power in the beginning but the whistle is still there. A few days later and all at once- no power. The motor won't rev past 3k So I figure... 1. the hose from the EGR to the turbo - It happened to me before so I reinstall the pipe. - Same deal 2. EGR is stuck - I remove and check it. I had put a blocker plate last year - Nope slides perfectly 3. intake pressure sensor mounted near the dipstick - Nope 4. intake pressure sensor mounted on the intercooler - Nope in tight. 5. limp home mode. - disconnect the battery for 10 minutes - Still no power 6. leaky waste gate pressure hose (the short one that goes from the turbo high side barb to the actuator head) - Looks good 7. Struck waste gate - Lubed and loosen but seemed OK. I lengthened the arm to see if it was not sitting well - Nope 8, Crappy new IC - I changed out the IC and put back the old one which was OK BTW. Checked all the hoses and fittings. - Same crap. This leaves me with 9. bad turbo - I was wondering if it wasn't the whistling sound wasn't it giving up the ghost before I lost power What do you guys think? Are there any checks I missed? Anyone have one kicking around? Should I get it rebuilt? It's kind of a pricey part to change out just to see if that's it. Ideas? Thanks - I'm in Montreal.
  10. UPDATE! Tolsen called it as usual! So I got the car back from MB and I have brakes! No extra cost for this freakin' ordeal because they had charge me for 6 hours at their insane rate while trying to fix the car the first time so I guess we're even. This is after blasting the Service Manager and the Customer Service. From what I gathered, if it can be believed, is the booster hose was perferated and leaking so they replaced it. It makes sense anyway. It took almost a week to get the car back but I'm satisfied with the brakes now. Not at all satisfied with the Service or the experience. I swear, it will take an act of God to get me to another dealer to look at an old car. They should just tell you honestly they don't want to look a the car because they don't have the experience of working on old cars. All this to say I'm on the road again.
  11. This is what I though but no... I only get the trip meter. Mine is a rag top, so no A/C. I was hoping it was something easy but I guess not. I don't want to highjack the thread so i'll leave it there.
  12. A little off topic but... I noticed in Kdubya's photo that there is an outdoor temp on the dash. My car doesn't have that option. I seem to remember there was a way to turn stuff on and off in the ECU. Automatic transmission instead of manual on startup and stuff like that. Any one know how to turn that on?
  13. Hi Andrew I have a block heater in my car and indeed there is a wire that goes to just under the front bumper on the right center. There you should find a round connector. A special connecter with multiple pins. If you don't see one, then the block heater option was never fully installed. What you seem to have going should work in lieu of having the cord go to the very front. Or you can just run the male end to the front of the car like on the old Chevys. I find that even in the milder temps of -10C -15C my CDI is hard to start and I have to cycle the plugs a few times. If I plug it in for as little as 45 minutes though the car starts right up in the cold but because of poor traction on ice and deep snow even with winter tires and not knowing if it will start when I come out of work if its too cold, don't drive it much in the winter months. I must say I've never left mine plugged in for more than a hour or two so I can't tell you if it times out or maxes out but they are much like a heating element in a water kettle so I doubt it.
  14. FYI Tolsen The name of the thread is a bit deceiving. It should be called Rock Hard pedal but no brakes.The brakes have gone from long and spongy to suddenly being high and hard but with no braking power. It feels like air in the lines is the best way to explain it but the pedal is hard. What I have at the moment is a brake pedal that is at the top and hard to press but with no pedal feel. You really have to stomp hard on the brake to get the brakes to engage then you have to wait before the brakes start to bite. So you can travel 30 or 50 feet before you start to get brakes. The pedal slowly goes down and if you keep stomping you can lock the front but by then you're almost stopped. Pumping has no effect. Its like a rock hard brake pedal with no brake engagement like something is blocking the pedal. Almost like the brake booster is not working or full of oil or something. I must say I've never seen anything this before. Which is why I took it to the Smart in the first place. BTW the only parts they changed for $1100 was 2 wheel cylinders for $200. No pipes or hoses. I'm guessing a bit of brake fluid. I can't tell you if they put it on the Star Diag. to bleed the brakes. It has thrown no code to date either. The rest of the cost is time.