Jocko

Regular Members
  • Content count

    101
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

15 Good

1 Follower

About Jocko

Profile Information

  • Location
    West Island, Montreal, Canada

Recent Profile Visitors

631 profile views
  1. I saw one here in Montreal that they rigged with a snow plow on the front and they used it to clean the entrance drive of an apartment building. The up side is that its use is unlimited indoors. No toxic gas.
  2. Thanks for the response. I call Tables the bottom plates with the bushings and the ball joint. They're commonly referred to as control arms. They still look solid so I'm going to wait. Yeah I was just going to bring it to my local alignment shop. I just changed out the 2 tie rod ends and 2 sway bar linkages. Just the one tie rod end was toast but I usually do both while I'm at it. The linkages were just starting to make noise and it drives me a bit nuts to hear noise with a car that's so quite, so while I'm there... So nothing special for the alignment in other words? It's just I hate giving MB $175 plus tax for a job I know is fairly simple that I can get done for half that price. Cheers!
  3. Hi everyone, Just got my 2016 EV back from the 100k km service at MB and I have a list of front suspension issues. Mainly a loose tie rod and linkages. Anyone else had issues like this? I was going to replace both tie rods and linkages myself. I'm wondering if I should also do the tables or should I wait for them to get loose too. I also find a MB $170 alignment a tad crazy seeing as it is a simple rear wheel drive. Can an indi shop do the alignment after the repair?
  4. Hi Mari, I realize this thread is getting a bit stale but I'm curious how you made out with your car. In my case my car had just finished the warranty the month before so I presume they thought I might try to pursue them legally but its only a guess. They offered the good will right up front as I said previously. I'm guessing that if there is too much fluctuation in the voltage of the HV battery it disables the car and throws the codes noted. Once you restart the car it clears the code and you can drive until it happens again. The MB High Voltage is a bit of a black box as I discovered. I didn't find anyone who could replace or repair the battery except MB. On other EVs you can sometimes find a replacement or have it serviced and installed at a specialty garage. Not in this case. You have to replace the unit at a cost of $12,000 for the 1 part and only at MB. The battery pack is a sealed unit and in case of an accident there are explosive charges that disconnect the battery mains from the car. This makes getting a battery pack from a wreck almost impossible. I have read that even MB cannot fix the battery once the charges have been blown. I hope it all worked out for you.
  5. Hey everyone, An update to the issue I posted here in November. I picked up my car from MB yesterday. It is working great and I'm really happy! MB did indeed "Good Will" my battery pack and replaced it with a new unit for a replacement cost of $12K at no charge. Good on them and I must commend them for doing that because that was a heart breaker. I didn't need to push or yell, they just offered it up first thing. So kudos to MB. So unlike my previous adventure with them. My only qualm is the length of time it took to arrive at a decision. (3 weeks). Once the decision was taken to cover the battery, the installation was quick. (1 week) So I've been without a vehicle for a month. Again with a potential $12k loss over my head and I was in no position to pressure MB as they hold all the power. Literally and figuratively They did charge for the original diagnostic and the installation of the battery for a total of $1300 tax included which I thought was a fair deal for 8 hrs work. (they also fixed my leaky tire while they were at it) Nice! Because this is a new part it comes with a 2 year guarantee so my car is practically new again. I must say the new battery pack does make a difference for the range. The 2016 battery with 75k km was getting a little tired but I do use it to the limit every day. So you are looking at one Super Happy Smart EV owner but this whole issue has brought up an important point about used EVs in general which I will bring up in another thread. What are the financial risks associated to buying a used EV? I dodged a bullet this time but what happens to others who are not so lucky? We'll leave that for another time. Happy Holidays everyone!
  6. So I brought it to a big MB shop in the city hoping they had seen this issue before and its a good news bad news story. The good news it that the diagnostic was quick. The bad new is that it's the HV battery that is defective and the car is 3 months out of warranty. Management is discussing whether to "Good Will" the part because the price of the part is $12,000 So the 2016 car I bought used last year in October for $12k, which I thought was a good deal, is now essentially worthless. I'm beginning to rethink this electric car thing because this is a huge single point of failure. The car is essentially a write off. Stay tuned.
  7. Yeah I hear ya. I put in a new 12v battery hoping it would resolve the issue and for a few days it was running well. Then yesterday morning I got in the car and I got the red motor light. I shut it off and removed the key. Waited 10 seconds and retried and it worked OK. This seems to be a workaround for the moment. Just reboot the car but you have to remove the key. If you just turn it on and off it doesn't work. I really hate this intermittent stuff. It makes it hard to diagnose and then you can't reproduce it at the dealer so it sits and languishes if there is no stored code. I'm sort of glad someone else has seen the issue. Did you ever get it diagnosed or did you just shrug it off and keep driving? This is the first time this car has thrown any kind of CEL otherwise its been a perfect drive so far.
  8. Never mind! After a couple of dozen more times trying with some of the following options "Started the car's engine instead of just switching to position 1, it worked" "Walked clockwise around the car 3 times first, it worked" "Prayed to the sun God Ra as I held down the button, it worked" "Played Toto's Africa on a kazoo, it worked" "It didn't reset unless I performed the steps whilst sporting a full erection". Thanks to Evilution for the options.
  9. OK at the risk of sounding really thick... How do we reset the service indicator light on the 2016 ED? I've got the "Service in 45 days" message that I've been ignoring for about 2 months, I've looked at about a 5 videos and they all show you how you press on the left button on the dash to get to the wrench/service/mileage and turn off the key and holding the same button turn on the key. Yada yada yada. I have done this on my CDI Smart and other cars tons of times. My problem is I cannot get to the wrench/service mileage screen on the electric. I've tried a dozen different ways and I've been through every menu but I never get the wrench with mileage. Its only a Service in 45 days message and it just keeps flashing If someone could let me in on the trick. BTW the temp is around +2 so I also get the freezing message. Could that have an influence?
  10. Last week I came out to my 2016 Electric Drive with 75000k and unplugged as usual. Went to start the car and got these A/C Off malfunction and Drive Sys. -> Engine Off errors. By the time I checked on the web to see what it was (all bad news) and went back to the car, the car booted and ran no problem. Of course this left me uneasy as all the time I've had the car I've had no issues. I drove a week with no problems and then yesterday while driving it threw the same error. I pulled over and stopped the car. Took out the key. Waited about a minute and restarted. The car ran fine. Then about 10 minutes later it did the same thing. While I'm driving the engine just kicks out. WTF! Anyone ever seen anything like this? I obviously have to make an appointment with the stealership but I want to have some idea what I'm in for. In the mean time I was going to change out the 12V battery. What do you think? Could it be as simple as that? Thanks
  11. Thanks everyone for the replies. Indeed I did change out the extension cord for a 10 gauge as recommended. After thinking it over it's not that crazy. The charger is pulling 12 amps because I keep it on max. I double checked the plug and replaced the plug insert as it was really old. Made sure the grounds were good and bingo! No more problems. I've charged a few times this weekend and the ground fault flashing light has not lit up again. So I think I'm out of the woods. I am thinking about a 120/240 backup unit. Blaine: Which unit did you get and are you fairly happy with it? Cheers!
  12. I'll have to check the gauge but it's heavy with a single plug. I used to use it for a 15 amp snow blower without any issues. I noticed the extension is cool but the plug for the charger gets warm. Is that normal? As for the ground. I was thinking the same thing so I checked it on multiple plugs. I think the charger does a ground check before starting a charge and that it may be failing the ground check. I tested the plugs with a tester and it passed but I'll double check the ground to make sure it's solid. Thanks for the quick replies
  13. Hi everyone, I just traded my 2006 Smart CDI for a used 2016 ED with 50k, so I'm new to this charging thing. I set up my charger near my carport. It seems to be weather proof but just the same I built a small cedar box to keep it out of the elements. I noticed the rubber gasket near the plug was pulled out so I pushed it back but I'm doubting its water proof now. That being said I'm about 25 feet from my power plug. I connected a heavy duty extension cord to plug in the charger and everything seemed OK. I've only plugged the car in a few times at home because I can charge at work for free. I haven't had any issues but today when I went out I find the charger is flashing red after a 100% charge. The car charged OK but the charger is giving me a warning light. I unplugged and replugged and I still had the red lights. I plugged it straight to the socket and the lights went green. I tried another extension and the lights were green. I put it back to the original extension and again all is green. So what's up with these chargers? Is this a usual thing? Do any of you use extension cords? Is my charger on the fritz? I've only used the charger 3 times but it looks very used. Thanks!
  14. OK so I guess the jury is in. I'll be replacing the scoop. So this is why I had so much trouble replacing the scoop. Lowering the sub frame sounds like a PIA so I'm liking the idea of the tie wrap. This is the exact reason it was loose and knocking around back there and why I removed it. The one side just would not go in. I had made a metal scoop on the bottom and fastened it with sheet metal screws. It seems to have toughed the abuse but I'll probably go the way of the plastic jug just to get a better aerodynamic. BTW I notice the bolt was missing near the top of the scoop. Anybody know what size bolt that is? Thanks again for all the feedback and keep up the good work.
  15. After replacing my holed intercooler and shaving the plastic piece next to the new intercooler so it doesn't hole my new one, I had a heck of a time connecting the 2 plastic pieces back together after I was done. Long story short. It was making a racket because it was half broken and hard put back in properly so I decided it was easier to just yank out the plastic going under the car. The scoop was ripped off on the first snow bank as anyone who has driven this car in winter can attest. The car runs fine without it but... The question whether this will this have any noticeable impact on the cooling of the intercooler and is it worth the effort to replace it? Thanks for your opinions