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Everything posted by Jocko

  1. Hi everyone, Just got my 2016 EV back from the 100k km service at MB and I have a list of front suspension issues. Mainly a loose tie rod and linkages. Anyone else had issues like this? I was going to replace both tie rods and linkages myself. I'm wondering if I should also do the tables or should I wait for them to get loose too. I also find a MB $170 alignment a tad crazy seeing as it is a simple rear wheel drive. Can an indi shop do the alignment after the repair?
  2. I saw one here in Montreal that they rigged with a snow plow on the front and they used it to clean the entrance drive of an apartment building. The up side is that its use is unlimited indoors. No toxic gas.
  3. Thanks for the response. I call Tables the bottom plates with the bushings and the ball joint. They're commonly referred to as control arms. They still look solid so I'm going to wait. Yeah I was just going to bring it to my local alignment shop. I just changed out the 2 tie rod ends and 2 sway bar linkages. Just the one tie rod end was toast but I usually do both while I'm at it. The linkages were just starting to make noise and it drives me a bit nuts to hear noise with a car that's so quite, so while I'm there... So nothing special for the alignment in other words? It's just I hate giving MB $175 plus tax for a job I know is fairly simple that I can get done for half that price. Cheers!
  4. Last week I came out to my 2016 Electric Drive with 75000k and unplugged as usual. Went to start the car and got these A/C Off malfunction and Drive Sys. -> Engine Off errors. By the time I checked on the web to see what it was (all bad news) and went back to the car, the car booted and ran no problem. Of course this left me uneasy as all the time I've had the car I've had no issues. I drove a week with no problems and then yesterday while driving it threw the same error. I pulled over and stopped the car. Took out the key. Waited about a minute and restarted. The car ran fine. Then about 10 minutes later it did the same thing. While I'm driving the engine just kicks out. WTF! Anyone ever seen anything like this? I obviously have to make an appointment with the stealership but I want to have some idea what I'm in for. In the mean time I was going to change out the 12V battery. What do you think? Could it be as simple as that? Thanks
  5. Hi Mari, I realize this thread is getting a bit stale but I'm curious how you made out with your car. In my case my car had just finished the warranty the month before so I presume they thought I might try to pursue them legally but its only a guess. They offered the good will right up front as I said previously. I'm guessing that if there is too much fluctuation in the voltage of the HV battery it disables the car and throws the codes noted. Once you restart the car it clears the code and you can drive until it happens again. The MB High Voltage is a bit of a black box as I discovered. I didn't find anyone who could replace or repair the battery except MB. On other EVs you can sometimes find a replacement or have it serviced and installed at a specialty garage. Not in this case. You have to replace the unit at a cost of $12,000 for the 1 part and only at MB. The battery pack is a sealed unit and in case of an accident there are explosive charges that disconnect the battery mains from the car. This makes getting a battery pack from a wreck almost impossible. I have read that even MB cannot fix the battery once the charges have been blown. I hope it all worked out for you.
  6. Hey everyone, An update to the issue I posted here in November. I picked up my car from MB yesterday. It is working great and I'm really happy! MB did indeed "Good Will" my battery pack and replaced it with a new unit for a replacement cost of $12K at no charge. Good on them and I must commend them for doing that because that was a heart breaker. I didn't need to push or yell, they just offered it up first thing. So kudos to MB. So unlike my previous adventure with them. My only qualm is the length of time it took to arrive at a decision. (3 weeks). Once the decision was taken to cover the battery, the installation was quick. (1 week) So I've been without a vehicle for a month. Again with a potential $12k loss over my head and I was in no position to pressure MB as they hold all the power. Literally and figuratively They did charge for the original diagnostic and the installation of the battery for a total of $1300 tax included which I thought was a fair deal for 8 hrs work. (they also fixed my leaky tire while they were at it) Nice! Because this is a new part it comes with a 2 year guarantee so my car is practically new again. I must say the new battery pack does make a difference for the range. The 2016 battery with 75k km was getting a little tired but I do use it to the limit every day. So you are looking at one Super Happy Smart EV owner but this whole issue has brought up an important point about used EVs in general which I will bring up in another thread. What are the financial risks associated to buying a used EV? I dodged a bullet this time but what happens to others who are not so lucky? We'll leave that for another time. Happy Holidays everyone!
  7. So I brought it to a big MB shop in the city hoping they had seen this issue before and its a good news bad news story. The good news it that the diagnostic was quick. The bad new is that it's the HV battery that is defective and the car is 3 months out of warranty. Management is discussing whether to "Good Will" the part because the price of the part is $12,000 So the 2016 car I bought used last year in October for $12k, which I thought was a good deal, is now essentially worthless. I'm beginning to rethink this electric car thing because this is a huge single point of failure. The car is essentially a write off. Stay tuned.
  8. Yeah I hear ya. I put in a new 12v battery hoping it would resolve the issue and for a few days it was running well. Then yesterday morning I got in the car and I got the red motor light. I shut it off and removed the key. Waited 10 seconds and retried and it worked OK. This seems to be a workaround for the moment. Just reboot the car but you have to remove the key. If you just turn it on and off it doesn't work. I really hate this intermittent stuff. It makes it hard to diagnose and then you can't reproduce it at the dealer so it sits and languishes if there is no stored code. I'm sort of glad someone else has seen the issue. Did you ever get it diagnosed or did you just shrug it off and keep driving? This is the first time this car has thrown any kind of CEL otherwise its been a perfect drive so far.
  9. Never mind! After a couple of dozen more times trying with some of the following options "Started the car's engine instead of just switching to position 1, it worked" "Walked clockwise around the car 3 times first, it worked" "Prayed to the sun God Ra as I held down the button, it worked" "Played Toto's Africa on a kazoo, it worked" "It didn't reset unless I performed the steps whilst sporting a full erection". Thanks to Evilution for the options.
  10. OK at the risk of sounding really thick... How do we reset the service indicator light on the 2016 ED? I've got the "Service in 45 days" message that I've been ignoring for about 2 months, I've looked at about a 5 videos and they all show you how you press on the left button on the dash to get to the wrench/service/mileage and turn off the key and holding the same button turn on the key. Yada yada yada. I have done this on my CDI Smart and other cars tons of times. My problem is I cannot get to the wrench/service mileage screen on the electric. I've tried a dozen different ways and I've been through every menu but I never get the wrench with mileage. Its only a Service in 45 days message and it just keeps flashing If someone could let me in on the trick. BTW the temp is around +2 so I also get the freezing message. Could that have an influence?
  11. Hi everyone, I just traded my 2006 Smart CDI for a used 2016 ED with 50k, so I'm new to this charging thing. I set up my charger near my carport. It seems to be weather proof but just the same I built a small cedar box to keep it out of the elements. I noticed the rubber gasket near the plug was pulled out so I pushed it back but I'm doubting its water proof now. That being said I'm about 25 feet from my power plug. I connected a heavy duty extension cord to plug in the charger and everything seemed OK. I've only plugged the car in a few times at home because I can charge at work for free. I haven't had any issues but today when I went out I find the charger is flashing red after a 100% charge. The car charged OK but the charger is giving me a warning light. I unplugged and replugged and I still had the red lights. I plugged it straight to the socket and the lights went green. I tried another extension and the lights were green. I put it back to the original extension and again all is green. So what's up with these chargers? Is this a usual thing? Do any of you use extension cords? Is my charger on the fritz? I've only used the charger 3 times but it looks very used. Thanks!
  12. Thanks everyone for the replies. Indeed I did change out the extension cord for a 10 gauge as recommended. After thinking it over it's not that crazy. The charger is pulling 12 amps because I keep it on max. I double checked the plug and replaced the plug insert as it was really old. Made sure the grounds were good and bingo! No more problems. I've charged a few times this weekend and the ground fault flashing light has not lit up again. So I think I'm out of the woods. I am thinking about a 120/240 backup unit. Blaine: Which unit did you get and are you fairly happy with it? Cheers!
  13. I'll have to check the gauge but it's heavy with a single plug. I used to use it for a 15 amp snow blower without any issues. I noticed the extension is cool but the plug for the charger gets warm. Is that normal? As for the ground. I was thinking the same thing so I checked it on multiple plugs. I think the charger does a ground check before starting a charge and that it may be failing the ground check. I tested the plugs with a tester and it passed but I'll double check the ground to make sure it's solid. Thanks for the quick replies
  14. After replacing my holed intercooler and shaving the plastic piece next to the new intercooler so it doesn't hole my new one, I had a heck of a time connecting the 2 plastic pieces back together after I was done. Long story short. It was making a racket because it was half broken and hard put back in properly so I decided it was easier to just yank out the plastic going under the car. The scoop was ripped off on the first snow bank as anyone who has driven this car in winter can attest. The car runs fine without it but... The question whether this will this have any noticeable impact on the cooling of the intercooler and is it worth the effort to replace it? Thanks for your opinions
  15. OK so I guess the jury is in. I'll be replacing the scoop. So this is why I had so much trouble replacing the scoop. Lowering the sub frame sounds like a PIA so I'm liking the idea of the tie wrap. This is the exact reason it was loose and knocking around back there and why I removed it. The one side just would not go in. I had made a metal scoop on the bottom and fastened it with sheet metal screws. It seems to have toughed the abuse but I'll probably go the way of the plastic jug just to get a better aerodynamic. BTW I notice the bolt was missing near the top of the scoop. Anybody know what size bolt that is? Thanks again for all the feedback and keep up the good work.
  16. Normand Comeau Auto

    This is a small one man operation but he specializes in Smart cars. General repairs to all model, 450, 451 and Electric. Everything from oil changes and clutch adjustments to turbo replacements and suspension work. Also a very advanced scanning tool to diagnose the vehicle. It is outside Montreal but worth the drive. The shop rate is also very reasonable.
  17. Hey Folks, So I finally broke down and decided to have the turbo looked at in my 450 by and independent garage. A short recap. Last summer, from one day to another I lost boost in the car. The question was always, was it a lack of boost or Limp Home mode? The car didn't throw a code or CEL so I started digging. 1. the hose from the EGR to the turbo - It happened to me before when I repaired the intercooler so I reinstall the pipe. - no change 2. EGR is stuck - I remove and check it. I had put a blocker plate last year - Nope slides perfectly 3. intake pressure sensor mounted near the dipstick - Nope 4. intake pressure sensor mounted on the intercooler - Nope in tight. 5. limp home mode. - disconnect the battery for 10 minutes - Still no power 6. leaky waste gate pressure hose (the short one that goes from the turbo high side barb to the actuator head) - Looks good 7. Struck waste gate - Lubed and loosen but seemed OK. I lengthened the arm to see if it was not sitting well - Nope 8, Bad Intercooler - I changed out the Intercooler with a used one but in good condition and pressure tested. 9. Bad turbo - I removed the intake and it looked clean with no broken fins or free play 10. Pressure test with a rubber clip and a plastic plumbing fitting that I connected a fitting to connect to my compressor. Block off the Intake to the motor with a plastic sheet and see if it holds boost. - No leaks. Finally I brought it to a independent garage I found who deals almost exclusively in Smarts. He found the problem in no time with a more elaborate code reader. His code reader showed a problem with the high pressure pump. ** It was the connector to the high pressure fuel pump. ** Somehow the connector was inserted but not clipped in to the end. When he pulled it came off in his hand! He plugged it back in and the car ran like it was new. $60 and it was fixed! After all of the hours I spent trying to figure it out. I highly recommend this garage if you're in the Montreal area and need service for your car. If, like me, you cannot stand bringing your car to the Stealership where you get robbed blind. The owner is Norman Comeau 200 BOUL LAURIER, McMasterville, QC J3G 1P8 He is very knowledgeable and showed me exactly the issue without a big production. I love my 450 and people ask me often if they should consider one. I always have to say that they are great if you know how to fix them because I have never found a garage that knew anything about them. Also, as some may recall my experience with the dealer borders on litigation. I can now recommend the car with the knowledge that someone can have it serviced at a reasonable price by competent mechanic.
  18. Thanks for the clarification of the Inlet air temp in the intercooler and pump Tolsen, I guess I'm not the first to confront this issue but it seems rare. It is a major PIA because the clip appears OK until you pull on it and only with a more advanced diagnostic tool does the code show up. The high pressure pump being disconnected doesn't throw a CEL but does put the car in Limp Home mode none the less. In any case we should add it to the list of possible reasons for a Limp Home mode. Especially if you've been working on the car.
  19. Cool! I didn't know you could put Seafoam in a diesel. I haven't been using any additives in my CDI.
  20. Hi fellow Smart Fixers Here is the deal. A few weeks ago my Smart (160k) starts making a high pitch whistling sound. Like a boost leak. I think - It sounds like the Intercooler has sprung a leak. I had repaired the holes in the old IC with JB Weld. The car works well but makes this crazy whistle sound. Bonus! I find an intact (not holed) intercooler on Kijiji. On the weekend I switch out the IC. Everything looks hunky dory. I have power in the beginning but the whistle is still there. A few days later and all at once- no power. The motor won't rev past 3k So I figure... 1. the hose from the EGR to the turbo - It happened to me before so I reinstall the pipe. - Same deal 2. EGR is stuck - I remove and check it. I had put a blocker plate last year - Nope slides perfectly 3. intake pressure sensor mounted near the dipstick - Nope 4. intake pressure sensor mounted on the intercooler - Nope in tight. 5. limp home mode. - disconnect the battery for 10 minutes - Still no power 6. leaky waste gate pressure hose (the short one that goes from the turbo high side barb to the actuator head) - Looks good 7. Struck waste gate - Lubed and loosen but seemed OK. I lengthened the arm to see if it was not sitting well - Nope 8, Crappy new IC - I changed out the IC and put back the old one which was OK BTW. Checked all the hoses and fittings. - Same crap. This leaves me with 9. bad turbo - I was wondering if it wasn't the whistling sound wasn't it giving up the ghost before I lost power What do you guys think? Are there any checks I missed? Anyone have one kicking around? Should I get it rebuilt? It's kind of a pricey part to change out just to see if that's it. Ideas? Thanks - I'm in Montreal.
  21. Back to the turbocharger for a minute. LOL I was looking at this video which some of you with turbo issues have probably seen. This guy seems to change it fairly easily by splitting it down the middle but towards the end I do notice the new bolts on the manifold and the exhaust of course. What are the odds you could change the turbo like this? It's in German so you can practice your highschool German or lower the sound but over all a great video.
  22. Hey guys! Meanwhile back at the ranch... For the record - I'm with Tolson on the emulator. I just blanked off my exhaust supply to the valve years ago and have not had problems since. I just wanted the emulator to rule out a faulty EGR unit. I think Smart142 is right and its the damned turbo. I redid the boost leak test and it sounds like the turbo is leaking. Probably the seals near the bearings. This is why I get some boost but as the pressure increases it bleeds off. Mileage is 170k How have others made out with the turbo swap? Do I get it done or give it a whack myself? I'm pretty well equipped but no torches. With the bumper off it looks pretty straight ahead but I found a guy who quoted me 4 hrs. to do the job and it sounds tempting. I've seen 2 ways to do this. One is to remove just the turbo unit and just swap out the core via the big C clip and the other is to take the whole exhaust manifold and replace the whole unit - manifold, WG and turbo. I was going to do the "remove only the turbo" way. What are the odds that I break any or all of the 3 bolts holding the turbo on the manifold? This is my main concern and why I don't want to remove the exhaust manifold. I'm sure to break at least a few studs in the engine block and have to go fishing to get them out. The muffler bolts are a given. They only break off. All the bolts have been soaking in penetrating fluid but still experience has taught me. I have a supplier near me - - and they can provide a rebuilt turbo the next day. They can provide the core or the whole setup with the manifold. Another member recommended them and they look legit. Opinions are welcome. Any gotchas I should know about? The oil lines look OK but should I replace them anyway while I'm at it? Thanks
  23. So its Good News - Bad News Good News is - no damage to the car. I wired the Emulator properly and have no codes. The car starts and runs fine. Bad News is- The car runs the same as before in Limp Home Mode. So I think it's safe to rule out the EGR. Next is to do another boost test to see if I have a leak somewhere. Maybe a weak hose with a pin hole or cut in it somewhere. I had done a quick check once before and didn't find anything. I'll do a more thorough inspection this time and while I'm at it I may spin the valve like recommended or delete the EGR all together. I'll keep you posted.
  24. Well there's your problem! I'll get around to soldering up the right way on Saturday. I didn't drive the car since I installed it so I'm hoping it's alright. Thanks guys I'll let you know how I make out.
  25. I just got the module. No instructions but yeah I used the diagram you posted and the wire numbers to match. That post BTW is 30 pages LOL but yeah I breezed through it. I guess only Stickman can give us the answer. I just assumed the rest were in order. You did notice almost all the wires are the same color. It makes it all the more challenging. Why 1 grey one? Just to mix it up a bit?