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About dream19

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  1. Thank you for your answers! Is there a simple way of checking/fixing that valve without taking it to a garage?
  2. So, I bought a cheap-ish OBD2 scanner and did a test. It seems there are no stored error codes, buuuut one of the gauges shows and peaks at 3 psi turbo boost at 3280 RPM (and the same gauge shows 1.87 in/HG VACUUM at idle). The throttle peaks at 3280 RPM. Any opinions regarding this new data?
  3. Thank you or your answers! I'll do an error code scanning and hopefully have a starting point on what to do next.
  4. I understand. So i need an OBD reader to find out more. But, if there are some error codes registered, shouldn't the engine warning light be lit in the dashboard?
  5. Hello all! My Smart sat idle in my garage for about a year and a half, until i could find a proper electrician to fix my broken SAM unit. After, finally, i 've brought it back home i noticed that the gearbox often fails to automatically up-shift and have to "help" it manually. When it fails to shift, i notice that the engine is revving but seems it needs a few more RPMs to shift. Also when trying to rev it out of gear, it only reaches ~3200 RPM, and the accelerator pedal is "dead" in the upper half. It is true that i don't quite remember how much RPMs i was getting about a year ago before the electrical problems. So, my questions are as follows: 1. How much RPMs do your CDIs get when revved while stationary (and in neutral, of course) ? 2. Is it more likely to be a gearbox issue or engine one? I must mention that the engine seems to run as smooth as ever with no black smoke or rough starts. Also the gearbox works perfectly in manual mode. LE: Sorry if/for posting in the wrong subcategory. Only now i've observed it's an area for mdifications
  6. Hello and thanks for the suggestions! I have tried almost all of them: the cable harness has continuity, the stalk opens and closes the circuit properly, no blown fuses, no melted connector, no corrosion on pin 35 or in its connector. I haven't checked yet the relay. I have another side - question: when switching to high beam it is normal that both beams (high and low) are lit? if so, how does the low beam gets activated in this case?
  7. So i have re-measured all yellow long lines, from the resistors this time, and i get a beep for all of them. I get a beep for the low beam too but on the green line not on the yellow (from your last post).
  8. Hello! Thanks for the advice. I have did the continuity measurement by setting the multimeter to the diode symbol, which produces a beep sound when you touch the leads. Correct me if it isn't the correct way to do it. I have measured for continuity the following: - the small yellow lines from pins to the tiny holes: measuring for all pins produces a beep, including the low beam one - the long yellow lines from the right side of the image: measuring all indicates some number on the multimeter but do not produce a beep - the orange lines: all produce a beep
  9. Thanks for clarifying that not all are resistors. So basically the component indicated in the attached image is a capacitor? If so i misdiagnosed the problem and I'm all lost.
  10. Hello guys! I have a Smart Fortwo CDI from 2004 (sorry, I know it is an area for 2005-2006 versions) with a 800cc Diesel engine. I have had many electrical problems since i bought it 3 months ago, and the principal suspect it is the SAM unit, possibly due to water infiltrations. At the moment my low beams dont work at all (i fixed them a while ago, a resistor had an imperfect contact). Now the same resistor is broken and registers a high resistance value, so probably it must be replaced. Taking the unit to a MB dealer would skyrocket the bill, and even then probably they will just replace it andf cost me half the car price. I don't have and didn't find an electrical diagram of the unit so i'll have to ask a fellow smart owner: can you measure on your SAM unit (or even a functional spare one) and post some resistors value for me? I attach a photo with the resistors in question (marked with a barely visible red rectangle). Thank you very much in advance! PS: The resistors in the attached photo are under the N11-9 connector, as seen here: http://www.fq101.co.uk/images/450/electrical/SAMconfig.jpg