
dream19
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0 NeutralAbout dream19
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Romania
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Thank you for your answers! Is there a simple way of checking/fixing that valve without taking it to a garage?
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So, I bought a cheap-ish OBD2 scanner and did a test. It seems there are no stored error codes, buuuut one of the gauges shows and peaks at 3 psi turbo boost at 3280 RPM (and the same gauge shows 1.87 in/HG VACUUM at idle). The throttle peaks at 3280 RPM. Any opinions regarding this new data?
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Thank you or your answers! I'll do an error code scanning and hopefully have a starting point on what to do next.
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I understand. So i need an OBD reader to find out more. But, if there are some error codes registered, shouldn't the engine warning light be lit in the dashboard?
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Hello all! My Smart sat idle in my garage for about a year and a half, until i could find a proper electrician to fix my broken SAM unit. After, finally, i 've brought it back home i noticed that the gearbox often fails to automatically up-shift and have to "help" it manually. When it fails to shift, i notice that the engine is revving but seems it needs a few more RPMs to shift. Also when trying to rev it out of gear, it only reaches ~3200 RPM, and the accelerator pedal is "dead" in the upper half. It is true that i don't quite remember how much RPMs i was getting about a year ago before the electrical problems. So, my questions are as follows: 1. How much RPMs do your CDIs get when revved while stationary (and in neutral, of course) ? 2. Is it more likely to be a gearbox issue or engine one? I must mention that the engine seems to run as smooth as ever with no black smoke or rough starts. Also the gearbox works perfectly in manual mode. LE: Sorry if/for posting in the wrong subcategory. Only now i've observed it's an area for mdifications
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Hello and thanks for the suggestions! I have tried almost all of them: the cable harness has continuity, the stalk opens and closes the circuit properly, no blown fuses, no melted connector, no corrosion on pin 35 or in its connector. I haven't checked yet the relay. I have another side - question: when switching to high beam it is normal that both beams (high and low) are lit? if so, how does the low beam gets activated in this case?
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So i have re-measured all yellow long lines, from the resistors this time, and i get a beep for all of them. I get a beep for the low beam too but on the green line not on the yellow (from your last post).
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Hello! Thanks for the advice. I have did the continuity measurement by setting the multimeter to the diode symbol, which produces a beep sound when you touch the leads. Correct me if it isn't the correct way to do it. I have measured for continuity the following: - the small yellow lines from pins to the tiny holes: measuring for all pins produces a beep, including the low beam one - the long yellow lines from the right side of the image: measuring all indicates some number on the multimeter but do not produce a beep - the orange lines: all produce a beep
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Thanks for clarifying that not all are resistors. So basically the component indicated in the attached image is a capacitor? If so i misdiagnosed the problem and I'm all lost.
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Hello guys! I have a Smart Fortwo CDI from 2004 (sorry, I know it is an area for 2005-2006 versions) with a 800cc Diesel engine. I have had many electrical problems since i bought it 3 months ago, and the principal suspect it is the SAM unit, possibly due to water infiltrations. At the moment my low beams dont work at all (i fixed them a while ago, a resistor had an imperfect contact). Now the same resistor is broken and registers a high resistance value, so probably it must be replaced. Taking the unit to a MB dealer would skyrocket the bill, and even then probably they will just replace it andf cost me half the car price. I don't have and didn't find an electrical diagram of the unit so i'll have to ask a fellow smart owner: can you measure on your SAM unit (or even a functional spare one) and post some resistors value for me? I attach a photo with the resistors in question (marked with a barely visible red rectangle). Thank you very much in advance! PS: The resistors in the attached photo are under the N11-9 connector, as seen here: http://www.fq101.co.uk/images/450/electrical/SAMconfig.jpg