GRP151

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About GRP151

  • Rank
    The apprentice
  • Birthday 11/01/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Toronto, Scarborough
  • Interests
    2005 Smart Fortwo CDI Cabrio

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  1. Just to be sure that were understanding your explanation on this one ... the air filter compartment is connected to the inlet duct which is connected to the turbo inlet.... that being the case, how can soot expelling from the engine exhaust be creating this kind of build ?
  2. Reminds me of the problem I had with the toner on my laser printer. (not fusing properly to the paper) Did you solve the P0238 problem you mentioned you had? Could be stuck waste gate.
  3. Whether the glass is half full or empty this is the point its....
  4. Did you solve the problem?
  5. Do your pliers look like these?

    dcs_29548003.png

    1. GRP151

      GRP151

      Very similar but not cable driven.

      Good guess!

  6. Pull on it! It is a spade connection. Once removed, spray oil mix and reinsert. That should regain its connection if corrosion is the issue and judging from this picture it sure looks like it
  7. I have made a specialty tool that resembles a pair of needle nose pliers. It is perfectly suited to pull off the spade connector from the solenoid, in this example, its about 30 inches in length. The design is much similar to the attached picture except very thin and easily handled. It truly is an amazing tool. I am just showing one that is similar as my modified one is awaiting patent. Once the patent is complete I can direct anyone who is interested to the distributor for purchase!
  8. From this picture I see there is no A/C pump on this motor to obstruct spray lubrication. With no obstruction oil spraying the area it is an excellent idea and method for corrosion prevention. I swear by it!
  9. Sorry, no one has any idea what your talking about!
  10. I have a diesel Case 1845C Uniloader that is an older model built in 1986 but it runs great. When I first got it I had trouble starting it in the winter. I noticed newer models had an injector spray can of Quick start attached with a hose that ran into the intake manifold. A quick press on the can before starting induced the primary start and the motor started up on the coldest day -30 C! I've heard of so many negative issues regarding this method but I've been doing this for over 30 years since I've had this baby.Never had any issues. I use it to plow my yard and driveway. I use the WD40 spray can straw from the Quick Start Can that runs into a micro hose that travels into the rubber plenum of the intake manifold. I drilled a hole into the plenum just large enough to shove a small piece of the straw where the micro hose is attached. What about spraying into the plenum a mixer of (varsol) or diesel with engine oil to lubricate the cylinders prior to the initial start? This could be a easy solution to freeing up sticky rings and increasing compression after the motor has been sitting for a while. A lot simpler than removing injectors and pouring oil into the cylinders. Once completed just remove the straw and replace it with a stainless steel screw to close the opening
  11. I posted the picture of the Boost sensor as I understood it wasn't identified clearly. It is intended to show the electronic part that detects and sends the fault code. The actuator does not have any means of detecting over or under boost. The diaphram and internal spring in the actuator responds to the air pressure from the turbine. If the hose that controls the actuator is cracked air pressure escaping will be insufficient boost. If it is plugged by oil leaking from the turbo it will also have under boost. The only way to control the overboost is to back off the travel distance of the actuator rod by moving the adjustment nuts, therefore the opening action of the wastegate valve is set sooner I hope this clears up the understanding.
  12. Actuator hose had some obstruction within, oil or carbon, Problem hasn't returned.