Regular Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

136 Excellent


About GRP151

  • Rank
    The apprentice
  • Birthday 11/01/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Toronto, Scarborough
  • Interests
    2005 Smart Fortwo CDI Cabrio

Recent Profile Visitors

1,698 profile views
  1. The three C's in life
  2. If 'Plan A' didn't work, keep your cool. The alphabet has 25 more letters.
  3. Darren, are you saying that this rubber and flange is supposed to be mounted somewhere to the vehicle? If you are, as all of my Smarts do not have it attached anywhere to the car. Or, are you saying the rubber and metal plate came loose from the muffler causing your exhaust to break??? Please clarify as I am very interested in your reply
  4. That looked like a rubber mount stud. Are you in agreement it balances the vibration or do you have another theory?
  5. I'm assuming it is some type vibration balancer. It absorbs engine vibration frequency associated with a non-supported levered muffler. Which should reduce the stress on the neck of the output exhaust therefore minimizing breakage. A wild guess on my part
  6. If they were the same this would be a better deal! One style for A circuit the other for B circuit
  7. Here are a few tips to check. NOTE: to replace the alternator in a Smart car the motor needs to be lowered. The First Things to Check When the battery goes dead, the condition of the battery and the alternator are two of the first things to check. However, do not assume that if the battery is good then the alternator must be bad and the cause of the problem. Here are a few tips on how to use common tools to diagnose charging system problems to prevent unnecessarily replacing the alternator. These are general suggestions that may not apply to every car. . Using a multi-meter, measure the voltage across the battery posts with the engine off. It should be 12 or 12.5 volts. If it is less than 12 volts, then the battery needs to be charged, something is draining the battery or the battery cannot hold a charge and needs to be replaced. If the battery voltage is around 12 volts, then start the engine and again measure the voltage across the battery posts. It should have increased to 13 or 14 volts if the alternator is working and charging the battery. If the battery voltage did not increase with the engine running, then verify the alternator and battery have good electrical connections. Make sure the battery cable terminals are tight and free from corrosion. Look for loose connectors or frayed cables. Use the multi-meter or a test light to verify the body of the alternator is grounded (zero resistance between the alternator and negative battery post). If the battery voltage is well above 14 volts with the engine running, then the alternator could be producing too much current and overcharging the battery. Maybe the voltage regulator (internal to some modern alternators) is bad. Or the battery is weak and a vehicle computer has temporarily raised the voltage limit. It might still also be bad connections or loose wiring. Some vehicle lights being brighter than others can be a symptom of this type of problem, because the alternator produces more energy to overcome the resistance of a bad wire or connection. The condition of the alternator belt is the next thing to check. Of course make sure the belt is not broken. Also look for a belt that is loose and slipping. It would probably be making noise. If in step 2 the voltage across the battery terminals was 13 to 14 volts with the engine running, then the alternator is properly charging the battery. That is good news, but there is another alternator electrical problem to check for. Sometimes an alternator can charge fine when the engine is running but drain the battery when the engine is off. It probably has something to do with the rectifier diodes in the alternator not properly blocking current from draining away from the battery. This problem may be intermittent. . Disconnect all the electrical connections from the alternator when the car is put away for the night. If the battery never goes dead with the alternator disconnected but goes dead when the alternator is hooked up, then that might point to an alternator diode problem. The diodes are buried so deep inside many modern alternators that replacing the entire alternator is often the most practical option. If the battery goes dead when the car sits (engine off) with the alternator electrical connections disconnected, then something else is draining the battery. Check first for the most obvious battery drains such as any lights left on (headlights, trunk light, ashtray light, etc.). After that it gets harder to track down the problem especially on modern cars. Finally, there are the mechanical alternator problems. Unusual screeching or grinding sounds might come from a bad bearing in an alternator. However, the noise might also be coming from a loose belt, misaligned pulleys or worn out belt tensioner. Use an automotive stethoscope to verify where the noise is coming from. Avoid damaging new alternator bearings by making sure the belt pulleys are aligned, the belt tensioners are good, the belt is not over tightened, the alternator mounting bracket is not cracked or that there is not some other mechanical problem.
  8. Oops! Meant to say 'NOT" silver oxide. But I noticed you are mentioning "CR2025".What does that have to do with CR1225 ?
  9. It seems my research has lead me to supposidly the best button batteries made. Renata. Swiss made Silver Oxide.
  10. As I mentioned, I prefer an extra button battery stuffed in my wallet where the temperature is well above freezing. That way it doesn't jeopardize battery performance. If the CR1216 works well. then all the better having a thinner battery to store away.
  11. I like the idea of putting a spare battery in the case. I haven't seen any CR1216's anywhere but that sounds like it would fit even better
  12. I have an idea for a custom glass window installation from your link here NFB. It probably wouldn't be to difficult to make a glass pocket with a zipper concept and attach this pocket window to an existing Smart top. All that would be needed is to source the glass window of similar size and curvature. It would be ideal for an exact match but if the glass is a little bigger it probably wouldn't really matter since the top opening would overlap the glass. You would just need to make sure the bottom of the glass lines up with the opening to reduce environmental dirt build up. Now to source the glass from a knowledgeable auto glass shop.
  13. Nigel, this video is only a reference to replacing the plastic window. I have searched everywhere regarding this glass conversion to no avail. Francesco never replied. Also if the info does surface understand this that you would need to remove the glass everytime you try to open the hatch or drop down the top which brings forth another problem. Where do you put the glass? At first it I was deeply interested as it seams like a great alternative to the deteriorating plastic window problem but when you weigh out the other inconveniences its not such a good idea. My opinion.
  14. The idea that some lives matter less is the root of all that is wrong with the world