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Everything posted by GRP151

  1. I posted the picture of the Boost sensor as I understood it wasn't identified clearly. It is intended to show the electronic part that detects and sends the fault code. The actuator does not have any means of detecting over or under boost. The diaphram and internal spring in the actuator responds to the air pressure from the turbine. If the hose that controls the actuator is cracked air pressure escaping will be insufficient boost. If it is plugged by oil leaking from the turbo it will also have under boost. The only way to control the overboost is to back off the travel distance of the actuator rod by moving the adjustment nuts, therefore the opening action of the wastegate valve is set sooner I hope this clears up the understanding.
  2. Actuator hose had some obstruction within, oil or carbon, Problem hasn't returned.
  3. Had the same problem. i removed actuator hose cleaned it up to the sensor and it hasn't reappeared
  4. Well this is my second year of owning diesel vehicles. So what ever I have learned has been basically trial and error and reading from the forums. Thanks for the update on who's design this is from.
  5. That's why I would rather clean the EGR and rotate it around to avoid damaging the ECU. I wonder if MB designed it that way to easily disable the functionality of the EGR by simply rotating the valve?
  6. While cleaning this 2006 Granstyle I noticed the seats are looking a little worn. Someone used a strong cleaner on the seats and it needs refinishing. Does anyone know if there is a spray dye or paint for the seats? I sourced some shoe spray paint but the colour doesn't seem to match.
  7. Well after many hours or reading and trying to figure out this Restrictor plug concept that's been used to control the heater box I came up with a simpler way of doing the same thing in a lot less time In fact it not only takes less time it makes the whole process very easily accomplished. Take a look boy's and girls and tell me what you think?
  8. Injector circuit could also be an issue if suddenly stopped after checking all else. i
  9. You need to lower the motor to access the starter. It is tightly tucked directly in the center of the motor behind the water pump and above the alternator. Lowering bolts are needed to assist to make re installing easier . You can also push start the car if all the electronics are working. Put it in 2nd gear. The larger Blue wire in the wiring harness above the inter cooler is the solenoid wire. You will need to open the wire loom to locate it. If you are getting power there your solenoid or starter is the problem. If you are not getting power then your SAM unit maybe the culprit.
  10. They are designed to close tightly onto a hose and to stop the flow, your right they won't slip off to easily when used that way. But when you set it to a partial compression where it does not completely collapse the hose it will sit loose. The outward pressure from the hose isn't sustainable and could slip off. Wiring it up or tie straps may suffice.
  11. It certainly seems like a good idea to try, but it may shake loose during a test run. You still have to lower the motor to get in there to clamp it.
  12. This doesn't make any sense " I did try to pull out the valve and flip it around but it wouldn't come out" The only way to clean the EGR is to pull it out! If you didn't remove it to clean it, and it is plugged, it will give a fault code. Putting a plate over the port does not cancel the EGR's ability to show a fault. Remove it and clean it properly then move on to the other tasks if the limp mode still persists.
  13. I think one strap should be enough. Not sure how well the glass roof will hold out though?
  14. I thought you picked up an emulator from stickman? From all the work you said you have done from replacing the Intercooler to,,, etc. etc. why not just clean out the EGR? Its takes about 1/2 hr to pull and clean. Aferwards install it 180 degrees fom original position. It wont plug up any more and no need for a plate. Do you think the EGR is the culprit for limited 3k rpm?
  15. Were you sucessful in solving the problem?
  16. After I was successful in removing the 3 bars of death in a previous post which included a no start problem, my multiplexer did show at the time a conflict with SAM and ECU. Although comments came in regarding this mismatch in my other post I assumed it wasn't valid because the car is running, I am still not quite sure how that would work. Everything I have been reading indicates all three components SAM, ECU and Odometer must be programmed together otherwise its a no go.One member commented the shifter also needed to be included but that was incorrect . All dash warning lights are lighting up and appear to be in working order on startup. Pressing the selector button on the side cycles through (temp,trip,and this ------ for odometer) with no signs of a problem except no current odometer reading when running. The only way I can see the current display is to turn the car off, let it sit for a while, then the odometer will display.
  17. If I understand this link correctly it would appear that swapping an Odometer from one car to another will work without the need to reprogramming it, except the error that will appear is the ------- in the odometer reading. I'm not sure how to resolve this issue since I do not have any other odometer that came with it to clone it. I wonder if there is another work around besides MB emptying my wallet?
  18. Its uncanny how the 404 looks so similar to my 1974 MG Midgets ( I have 2 of them). I think MG stoled the design from Peugeot. Maybe not?
  19. You said you swapped another engine and the same problem occured . You said it was NOT coolant. Typical white smoke is coolant into the engine either from head gasket or other failed entry point. You have a gas model not a Diesel so why have you posted it here?
  20. I decided to fix my saggy door pockets by means of a discarded windshield wiper. The stainless steel metal in the wipers are actually very useful for many projects One being, the ability, to maintain its shape, The metal is somewhat difficult to bend and it has a relatively good memory holding shape. Below are a few pics of the before and after. Takes about 10 minutes to do and keeps my door pocket looking good.. Something MB decided to omit I guess.
  21. I prefer to weld on SS 1/2" acorn nut to the actuator rod. It has maximum contact to the clutch fork socket.;jsessionid=XHHSvEaokZ0lFL3im6+HVgZo.38536438-9c19-3947-9017-bf77ad0514fd?r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600072 Nuts"|~ ~|categoryl3:"602448 Acorn Nuts"|~
  22. Why are you answering the question for Jerry? Why would you pull the heads off if you have a start and shutdown symptoms?