atrucker

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About atrucker

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  • Location
    Hamilton Canada
  1. will do... I was going to convert a van to 4x4... have all the axles, divorced 205 cases... but just never happened...yet good night. will keep up to date on heat issue.
  2. could very well solve the problem... it worked today .. and more effective blocking will work better
  3. All of these little things will help and enough of them will solve the problem. I will get under it and block off the intercooler scoop for the winter. every little bit will help. I'll be getting the jeep tj on the road in another month or so but want to keep the smart going too... so need to have it going in the winter to see if the problems get cured or not. why not follow the factory's lead and put the intake air feed to the exhaust manifold ?? hotter than the rad for cold running... then block off or switch to rad after warm up
  4. yes, I have put cardboard directly in front of a diesel van's rad that I have and it works well. I just blocked the grill openings on the smart to see if I could get 3 blobs out of it and it did. I'm sure it won't in the winter but it points to an overactive bypass … that's what the vans have- when they have heavy duty cooling. from what I have read, the cars need help in cold climates... or a least some of them need help. This one needs help in this weather.
  5. guess anything is possible as I haven't really gotten into it yet. it was too late to do much about it last year. hope to get the jump on old man winter this year and get er hot.
  6. Got good heat oout of it today...but it's warm out...so ya the hvac system is ok. I believe it is the thermostat or bypass... and the general bad design of the heating system. It does a great job of keeping it cool in summer so I can't knock it too much. The a/c blows cold and on the hottest days it keeps me cool and never overheats even one blob.
  7. I have a couple of magnetic oil pan heaters, but haven't used them yet. I am more concerned with the return trips when I can't plug the car in and have to leave it for the better part of the day... like at work or some other kind of long outing. For local stuff, I will be fine with all the electrical heat.
  8. Not cold yet and I am already unable to get it piping hot. The 12 volt ceramic heater looks like a very easy install as it has the wire and connectors already attached. The battery is inside so it is a no brainer... I'll install it tomorrow and keep working on the car itself. I have a few extra small ceramic 110 volt heaters and will put one in and tie it into the same plug as the block heater.
  9. no, the car doesn't make much heat in the dead of winter. The heat gauge will only show one or two blobs on very cold days. I drive a lot in the city and the highways around here are like parking lots a lot of the time in winter... near Golden Horseshoe loop at Hamilton
  10. Hi Willys Actually the problem is far worse than fogging... the windshield freezes up on the outside and the car doesn't make enough heat to melt the snow and ice off the windshield. Fogging I could deal with, snow and ice I can not.
  11. I have a 110 volt plug a few feet from the car so I could put an electric heater for pre drive warm ups...but that won't solve the problem if I go somewhere for the day and the car is to be parked all day. It has to work well enough to keep the windshield cleared in winter.
  12. Hi Leadwing. Thanks for the input. I did pick up a roadpro 12 volt ceramic heater from the T/A truck stop in Woodstock. It was on sale at a great deal so I grabbed it but haven't installed it yet...I am hesitant to work the alternator so hard. I will hook it up for emergencies such as sudden cold spells and freezing rain. It is 300 watts and really blows heat well. I would like to ask if your little buddy is a diesel heater ?
  13. well, been test driving the car...it is 14 to15 degrees C outside. Car would not get up to 3 blobs , only 2 !!! so there is an indication of the extent of my problem. Proper automotive HVAC thermometer in center vent showed 130-135 degrees F ( about 57 degrees C ) , exactly what the heat gauge shows at 2 blobs. I taped the upper part of the grill over with duct tape and went for a drive on the highway... no change ! maybe a few degrees warmer at vent but still only 2 blobs. Pulled over, and put a small towel in a heavy duty contractors garbage bag and rolled it up to then stuff it into the lower grill opening. Back on the highway and a few minutes later I got 3 blobs and 140 to 145 degrees F at vent ( approx. 62 degrees C ). Returning home, I have to go thru several stoplight in city traffic. I let the car idle several minutes in the driveway and it still held 3 blobs on the heat gauge. So that gives merit to the thought that the backpressure from the sstem will lock the thermostat brass bypass valve closed at temperature. Keep in mind I am having a problem getting the car up to full operational temperature at on 15 degrees C ambient air temperature,.. approx. 58 to 59 degrees F !!! Now that is surely a heating problem.... imagine at -30.. I have to park the smart currently when it gets that cold. I do not want to give up on the little bugger. If I have to take her apart and perform all the mods …. I am going to.
  14. cold cabin is half the issue... if we get freezing rain type weather the car can not defrost the window and it ices up !!! Can't drive it !!!