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About simeybinker

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    Toronto, Canada
  1. SOLVED! I got ambitious and had it towed an hour away to Uncle Glenn's place. I had no way of easily returning to my house, short of getting the car fixed. I was fully committed. Uncle Glenn conducted the transmission reteach, and it clicked through the gears as it should. After that, it fired up very roughly, and we found the alternator was seized. a little lubricant, and a 22mm socket, and that unstuck it. It then fired up smoothly. Apparently if you interrupt the transmission reteach which a chafed wire issue, it will not start without going through that procedure again. I drove it a couple blocks, before getting pulled over by police for having an expired license plate. $200 in fines. sigh.
  2. I found this thread on the Delphi DS150E: Although I don't find any indication it is capable of a transmission reteach
  3. like so? There's got to be a catch. This whole process has been such a pain in my butt, I expect there to be a catch. I need to flash it? install STAR on it? hack it? get a different cable? Is there any thread or tutorial on this?
  4. Is there a model which is preferable? Any threads on getting a STAR clone on it?
  5. Theory: the car seemed to fail abruptly when Uncle Glenn tried a transmission teach on it. Before this moment it was ok (some intermittent 3 bars of death, probably due to that wiring harness chafing). Since then, it hasn't operated. Now that I've fixed the wiring harness, perhaps it will not be until I get a transmission reteach to completion, before it can operate? The only time the gear position sensor is used, is during the transmission reteach - perhaps it IS out of spec? I think I'll have it towed to Uncle Glenn's... too bad my truck has died...
  6. just checked it. According to evilution, pins 1-2 and 2-3 should range between 1.3kO and 5.4kO. I went from 1.3 up to about 5.0. Additionally, he says between 1-3, it should be 4.2kO, and I'm at 3.8. Is this the end of the world? I've checked with two separate multimeters.
  7. Well, ALL the wires check out (did test with lamp). So, we don't have a real complete wiring harness around anywhere, do we? Being that the wiring harness checks out, and the clutch actuator and gear motor passed their bench test (according to Evilution), I really think the only outstanding item has to do with the programmer. Again, Andrew says he can't run the gear motor teach on a vehicle which "isn't running". As you may know, I have 3 bars of death right now. Any knowledge on how the program works? Can I make a clone here myself to do some testing on it? Because my only option is to have it towed back out to Uncle Glenn which is at least an hour away, and there's no guarantee he'll be able to fix it. Unfortunately my truck just died this weekend thanks, Sim
  8. Haven't sorted out this issue yet - the car has been sitting, but I'm revisiting it now. Tolsen, can you repost your wiring diagram from post #5? Both the gear selector motor and actuator check out with a bench test :|
  9. Yeah, see, that's what I thought. Actuator pushes in, and it does it's little clicky clicky. This is Andrew from Active Green + Ross - I haven't actually met the guy yet, but he sounded busy over the phone. I saw that, but I was having difficulty figuring out your coding - especially with the bottom plug (I'm familiar with all four of the others). The pin numbers are a little jumbled. But that's not the main reason for the wiring schematic - I'd like to know which two wires were cut through, what they do, and what happens if they accidentally short to one another. I'm pretty sure the big blue one is power, and the white one is a sensor, and I'm getting the sneaking suspicion the sensor was shorted and killed it (or a fuse went?). thanks, Sim
  10. jeepers. So I signed up for CAA (something which I have been previously adamantly against), and had my car towed to a mechanic (also something I'm against), and he just reported that the gear change reteach is something that must be done with the car on? I didn't think this was the case. With the 3-bars of death and no way the car knows which gear it is in, the car won't start, and without the car starting, it can't do a reteach? sounds like a great catch-22. so now, I suppose, I'm back to the drawing board; I guess a wire is still loose? or a sensor is fried? Is there is a real wiring harness schematic with colours and plugs and everything available? thanks, Sim
  11. Not everyone is lucky enough to live in Scotland and get diagnosis for pints of beer. But my last name is Hunter.
  12. Thanks everyone - how flammable are these cars? Pretty sure I just want to light it on fire now... So, I took it all back apart. re-soldered the two connections up top after letting them chill in muriatic acid (purchased at the local Canadian Tire) for a bit. Cleaned them right up. That stuff is NASTY. it was really damp outside and it was wafting this eerie "steam" from it - a small amount up the nose burns. One of the few times I wore gloves. the solder connection is SOLID now. But it still won't start. Three bars persist. The alternator, when driving it to the shop, was fine and freely spinning. It also doesn't TRY to start. it doesn't try anything. No clicks of the transmission. The only thing it does, is if the actuator is not extended, it will extend, and remain there. Which means the clutch is always disengaged. I figured out how to jump the actuator to get it to retract: 12 V, positive on pin 6, negative on pin 3. I got a hold of Andrew - he's now across the street at the OTHER Green+Ross (the phone number on the service centres page here is incorrect). 905 681 8928 is the shop number. He said it shouldn't require a transmission re-teach... but I'm not sold. So out of curiousity (and to rule out a few more things), I decided to jump the gear motor as well. I spun it back and forth several times going through all the gears. no stuck gears. works fine. While attempting to start up, it does not even try to select any gears. it just fires the three bars of death immediately. I tried to have it unplugged for several minutes as well. Other than checking every single bloody wire in the car, what else could it be? Now that the wiring harness is fixed, perhaps I should try and get my hands on a proper programmer.
  13. Gear motor. The failure makes sense. I'll make a write up summarizing findings when this is settled for everyone's knowledge. I haven't been able to source hydrochloric acid/brick cleaner for the copper. I can do a re-solder, but I'm unsure whether or not my fix last night actually DID fix the problem, and it simply needs a Star system now. Does someone who is closer than Glenn have a system that can reprogram this thing? I'm not going to ask him to drive back down again...
  14. Thanks Tolsen, Last night I disconnected all four connections under the car, and then pulled the loom up beside the intercooler so I could solder on top. It was a comfortable set up, but clearly needed to clean the wires a little more. The big question is, once I have fixed the problem, will the car operate, or will it need a re-teach with a Star system? Because Glenn is no longer here, and I want to avoid the dealership. (I also tried calling the Burlington Active Green and Ross to find Andrew (the owner of Bessy), but the guy there said no Andrew worked there... This came from Kane at Evilution (he didn't know that I had found the cut wires yet): I had this on 2 Roadsters which share the same set up.With these ones they had got confused with the gears and had gone passed a point were it understood what was going on.I removed the gear change motor and manually moved the cog until it was in Neutral and the rear wheels would spin (there are 2 neutrals and only 1 is correct). After that, I refitted the motor and retaught the gearbox and then the clutch actuator and they were both ok.