Nein7Oh

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About Nein7Oh

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    Starkville Mississippi, United States
  1. I love that possibility far more than disassembling the SAM again. I MAY have carefully sealed the hole I made for the wiring with gasket sealant. I appreciate the picture too. I took several before I started unplugging connectors, but I didn't manage to get a clear shot of the location those side fuses.
  2. So I just did the external relay modification to solve the headlight and fuel pump issues. Miraculously she (gf owner) has working low beam headlights, and the car starts. It runs better than I've seen it since she bought the car. Unfortunately now the car won't turn off. I can turn the ignition switch to the off position and remove the key (in neutral) and the car will keep running as long as the brake pedal is depressed. Obviously you just need to take your foot off of the brake once you've parked and the car can be driven normally. That's not good enough, and I would like to find the solution before I make any other improvements. My thought is that the fuel pump wire that I ran out of the SAM has been pierced by one of the solder joints pertaining to the brake light circuit. In the meantime the brake lights function normally. I would think that if they were in contact, the brake lights would be on as long as the fuel pump is running, or some other sort of malfunction. I have read that the brake light switches on the 450s are problematic, but I don't know how the two issues could be related and why it would manifest after the other issues were resolved. A side note is that I can now communicate with the car via the OBD2 port. It had previously lost that functionality and I thought that the OBD2 reader had gone bad until I tested it in a different vehicle and it worked fine. I know I SHOULD start by taking the SAM apart again and checking for a pierced wire, but if I do that I will be inclined to remove the wiring that I used and resolder a smaller gauge wire. Frankly I don't want to do that if the problem lies elsewhere. I am currently using 14 gauge flat speaker wire. It is truly flat, they braided it similar to a ground strap. It is really cool old school hifi car audio cable. 14 gauge is definitely overkill and I could probably get away with 18 gauge and a hot glue gun to keep the wire in place as I route it around solder joints (probably what most sane people do).
  3. So does anyone have an idea on the brake switch problem? The car won't turn off as long as the brake pedal is depressed. I can turn the ignition off and remove the key, but as long as the brake pedal is down the car keeps running. Everything else works flawlessly though, I even have communication at the OBD2 port back.
  4. Silver, Yes biodiesel will dissolve rubber seals over time, so things like fuel pumps will eventually develop leaks unless it was built using a rubber designed to withstand that sort of thing. There is a common rubber called Viton and it has no issues with biodiesel. Of course I am not familiar with the setup of your mercedes engine. I have heard about a lot of people running b100 in older mercedes diesels with no issue. I don't know if they modified them first... they are just a common choice among biodiesel enthusiasts. Also tolsen... http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/fuel_comparison_chart.pdf according to this, it is contains about 7% less energy which is the number I was aware of.
  5. BTW tolsen, biodiesel is a solvent/cleaning agent. It will clean out the varnish and gunk from your fuel lines which can accumulate and clog your fuel filter. Im not saying that is what happened, but it has been known to happen which is why it is recommended to run one or the other and not switch back and forth too much. Also your 21% difference is a bit of an over estimation unless you have some really kick ass diesel in Scotland. All of the diesel here in the states is B10 in order to meet the ultra low sulfur requirements. The blend can fluctuate as high as B20 depending on what state you are in. Michigan has a B20 minimum.
  6. Okay, so I just "finished" the fuel pump and headlight external relay wiring and everything was a go. It all worked. The car started right up, stumbled a little bit which is probably due to the air I introduced to the lines when I cracked the fuel lines open. It sort itself out and everything is great except now it will continue running until the brake pedal is released. I can turn off the ignition and remove the key but it will keep running until I take my foot off of the brake. I REALLY hope this is something that can be sorted without opening the SAM again, it is sealed up pretty tight. Everything else is working great though, which is a huge improvement.
  7. Tolsen, I appreciate all of the helpful tips. In regards to the EGR modification, I don't think that you have the same issue, but since this car originally came from Canada it has coolant lines running to the EGR. 1 input and 1 return line. I could route the input directly to the return, thus bypassing the EGR all together (necessary since I will be removing it), or I could remove the coolant lines entirely but I haven't see the source of them so I don't know what I would be dealing with if I went that route. The water pump being a car length away from the radiator leaves all kinds of possibilities. Of course I would block the EGR supply at the manifold, it would almost defeat the purpose to leave the pipe from the manifold blocked off but still in place. Do you have any hints on where I should try to find the free wheeling alternator pulley here in the states? Is there a part number available so I can try and pick one up at a MB dealership?
  8. Also, does anyone happen to know what sort of intercooler we have, or have a picture of what it looks like through one of the inlet/outlet ports? Has anyone fully deleted the coolant lines that go to the EGR, or did they just make a loop with it? The fewer potential coolant leaks the better in my opinion.
  9. lebikerboy, who were you referring to with the "erroneous information"? And tolsen, from everything I've seen on here so far you're kind of the "go-to" guy so I am sure you know that PART of the EGR's function is to divert exhaust gas into the air intake stream to bring the engine up to temp faster. Yes, this also has the benefit of reaching ideal combustion temperature faster which means the fuel will be more completely burnt and less harmful stuff will escape from the tailpipe to affect the birds and bees. Then the other portion of it's function is to give some of the particulates in the exhaust gas a second chance to be burnt up during combustion and keep less harmful stuff from escaping the tailpipe. The crud buildup is evidence that stuff would be escaping, but I am still willing to wager that minus a visual inspection (which it may still pass if I make it look OEM enough) the car would still pass emissions (if Mississippi had any) without the EGR in place as long as warning was coded out and the tune was done right. (Hence Malone tuning and not an eBay mod box). People around here drive like maniacs, especially at the sight of a Smart car (prejudiced jerks) so I just want to give her a little more 0-65 acceleration potential and enough power to be able to climb the minor hills at highway speed. As it is, the car has a tough time maintaining 65-70 mph up a mild incline, especially while on cruise control. BTW I am building the add on relay harness as we speak, I just came inside for a snack. I had some minor non car related set backs this morning, so I got a pretty late start. Someone had the nerve to break into my house on New Years Eve. The dog scared them off before anything was stolen, but I am understandably upset. The landlord will be buying a new window screen and some window locks this week.
  10. The issue I have seen the most with alternative fuels is corrosion of aluminum components by the "alcohol" portion of the biodiesel, corrosion of natural rubber gaskets and rings in addition to any gelling or viscosity issues. It seems that your hydraulic fluid would not have any of these problems. The solution (at least in VW applications) is to replace the rubber gaskets and seals in the high pressure injector pump with viton rubber components instead. Also I just went and bought the parts for the fuel pump relay setup along with the headlights. If the rain stops by tomorrow, I think she will have new headlight housings, the euro turn signal mod, fog lights, and a running car. If I can get her on board with the Malone tune, I will probably be removing the EGR entirely, bypassing the coolant lines and running aluminum piping where the egr used to be. Mississippi is emission free, so I don't need to worry about inspection. That should make working in the engine bay a bit easier. It doesn't get cold enough here to worry about needing the EGR too much anyway. Does anyone happen to know if the intercooler is tube and fin or bar and plate? I have a fabricator friend who may be up to the task of making an improvement if necessary.
  11. I just opened one of the injector lines and a very small amount of fuel came out while trying to start it. If it is anything like my VW TDI there is definitely not enough fuel pressure, which would add to the SAM hypothesis. Is there a specific type of relay I should buy? I already purchased 1 Hella 4RA.007.793-031 because I intended to fix the SAM eventually. We are headed to the autoparts store shortly to return the crank position sensor that we bought. I had already purchased another one on ebay which showed up today but it wasn't supposed to arrive until the 5th and in the meantime we have been a single vehicle house for the past 10 days and it is slowly killing me. I'm going to hold on to the ebay (Bosch) one until the SAM issue is fixed whatever the outcome. We have found a reliable mechanic. They are MB enthusiasts and do almost all of the work for out of warranty MB cars in the area. Unfortunately they are 60+ miles away in Tupelo and the car would need to be towed at this point.
  12. I appreciate the heads up, fortunately the alternator was replaced less than 12000 ago. It took the mechanic a month and a half to do it (long story), but it was replaced with a brand new Bosch. Almost immediately after that it developed an oil leak at the turbo oil return (funny coincidence). We paid the same shop to fix the oil leak, which again took way too long, and then we stopped going to him. Less than a day later the reluctor rings developed cracks. He didn't even clean the undercarriage/engine bay. It took a solid day to get *most* of the crap off down there so I could try and find if there is a new leak, which there is...
  13. Thank you. So the best way to read fault codes and such is still the STAR setup? Does the smart have the same 38 pin connector as Mercedes? I have only seen the ODB2 port near the steering wheel.
  14. Is it possible to do a remap without buying a STAR setup? Oddly enough I already have a DELL D630 that most online sellers are trying to peddle with the rest of the equipment. I have a VAG-COM cable from my previous VW and it is my understanding that it will work as a mpps cable. What software are you using if not the STAR stuff? I have already found the remap files, and have seen a lot of people in this section mentioning repeated remapping with various different files. From what I have seen the 365277 is recommended, but the zip archive I found had the .MOD file but is missing the .ORG file for that map. This is just going to be a stop gap measure until I can talk my girlfriend (the owner) to spend the money on a proper Malone tune. The utter lack of a qualified mechanic where we live means that the maintenance and repair falls on me. I am fluent in diesel, but not MB. Perhaps this could become a how-to sticky/wiki? Thanks
  15. Hello everyone, I have been lurking here for the past week, and decided to make an account to hopefully get a few questions answered. Most of the relevant information I've found is coming from 2012, so I am hoping there have been new developments/discoveries. I am the significant other (read mechanic/detailer) of a 2006 fortwo cdi owner in the US. The car was purchased on ebay from a dealer in Ohio who imported it from Canada and changed it to meet DOT standards. We were originally living in Colorado (euro diesel mecca of the western US, outside of the Pacific Northwest) but recently moved to Mississippi (taint of the US) for graduate school (masters for me and DVM for her). There is NO European car scene here, especially not for diesels. We had a terrible time finding a shop qualified to work on the thing. I am a long time VW/Audi enthusiast (try not to hold it against me) and will be swapping a 1.9 TDI into my Toyota 4Runner by this time next year (if everything goes reasonably according to plan) but am completely new to Mercedes/Smart. Her car is a piece of "work". It is currently on ramps in the driveway because it won't start. It will crank just fine and will occasionally let out a little put, but won't start. I am reasonably certain that it is the crank position sensor, but because of all of the Canadian EGR nonsense I am having a devil of a time getting to the darn thing. The low beams of the headlight do not work because of the drastically undersized wiring coming from the SAM burning up (which after seeing the hack job done on the stereo, I had erroneously blamed on the former owner). I will be taking care of that soon, I want to wait until the rest of the work is done. It needs new reluctor rings (I sourced an aftermarket set from the UK), and I am trying to talk her into a Malone tune, but the closest tuner is 2 states away. The good news is that is has just under 100,000 miles, an AEM dryflow panel filter, powerstop rotors and pads, an aftermarket stereo headunit with bluetooth calling ( had to source a reverse harness and trim surround from LATVIA), and brand new headlights (imported from Spain...wtf, its a Canadian car) and (modified) projector lens fog lights waiting to be installed. The greatest improvement I have seen was when I replaced the battery to ground wire with a 2 ga cable along with appropriate sanding and dielectric grease. If you haven't done it, I highly recommend it. That is about all she has let me do so far. We bought the car because she has always liked them, and once we found that there was a diesel option and that it could run biodiesel it became a "must" purchase. I am a chemist (among other things) and dabble in biodiesel at home. I have yet to run anything but a test generator with it (I don't have a centrifuge to truly get rid of the particulate matter that could clog the injectors) but once I find the right deal, her fuel tank will be filled at home (don't tell the Uncle Sam).