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About jjtrucker

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  1. I had the same problem. Its a wiring short between the sam unit and fuel pump. I could not trace the wires from the fuel pump to the sam unit because they disappeared into the firewall motor area. So i dropped the tank and cut the power wire at the fuel pump and ran the power wire through a drain plug and under carpet to the sam unit or in my case s bypass Hope this helps. Its been a while...over a year and no problems since
  2. Sorry for not updating. I did the external relay and the fuse kept blowing when i hit a bump. After consulting with MB I cut the power wire at the fuel pump and ran an new wire to the sam. Success!! apparentley there was a short in the power wire between the fuel pump and sam.
  3. To remove/replace Fuel Pump/Test Put Smarty on Ramps/Jacks 1,Drain tank as close to mt as possible 2.Remove torx screws holding fuel filler door remove door and rubber and set aside 3.Undo torx screw that holds the fuel filler neck to the body..there is a ground wire attached.. i zip tied it up so in wouldn't fall down 4. Remove front,rear belly pans 5.I braced the fuel tank at this point as I was unsure if it would come crashing down...I drained the fuel better than I expected so no problems.. also cut any zip ties holding wiring harnesses to the tank. 6.Drop the fuel cooler box 2 torx bolts at he back an the plastic nut at the front...I disconnected it and removed it completely to get it out of the way..probably not necessary..... 7.Remove the torx bolt at he front of the tank. 8.The tank should fall down enough to access the fuel pump at the top 9,Disconnect the fuel lines and electrical plugs 10.To remove the pump use a strap wrench to spin the black plastic retaining ring counter clockwise 11.Lift pump out To bench Test 1. The red wire on the pump is the + and the brown is the - 2.Attach a wire to the ground- brown wire (alligator clips) 3. Attach a wire to the positive+red wire (alligator clips) 4. On the positive side wire a 10 amp fuse 5. Immerse pump in ice cream bucket of diesel 6.Put 6-8 inches of fuel line on to the pressure side of the pump and put in the bucket..otherwise when you go to the next step if your fuel pump is good you'll have fuel all over the place!1 7. Connect the +/- to a battery 8.If fuel is flowing back into the pail...all good 9.Pinch off the pressure line and run the pump for 15 sec+ if the fuse doesn't blow and the pumps been pumping during this time than your fuel pump isn't the problem i guess you could check the output pressure if you have the gauge but I'm not a mechanic just a handy dumb truck driver LOL Hope this helps!
  4. UPDATE...checked the interior sam..all good dropped the fuel tank removed the pump checked the wires to the pump for shorts all looks good..ran the fuel pump for 4 hrs with a 10 a fuse in line no problem blocked the flow outbound for over 1 min and fuse still wouldn't blow...so the only thing I can think of is to re assemble and run the external relay...as suggested on this site.. I just didn't want to do that until l exhausted the obvious underlying causes...ps MB says if fuel pump runs its good no load testing...so they would have replaced it and still not have corrected the problem.
  5. Thanks Tolsen ,Smartdriver for more things t look at...re special tool t pull fuel pump any ideas what it looks like or wear to find one?? if i kew what it loked like i can probably mcgiver or build something
  6. Tolsen have one of those..any ideas on what the spec 's are. The problem with these little guys are no factory manuals...mb really missed there target demo ...if I was a young urban poffesional without a couple of $$ in tools this car would be in the wrecker..sad really it's well engineered and funner than all get out but fustrating that we have to figure it out with no support.
  7. Update got all the belly pans and fuel cooler box installed lubed the clutch actuator and took Smarty out for a burn..ran like a top shifted much smoother...But the fuse blew again this time it turned on the check engine light. Checked the codes on reader and it gave a "low pressure to the fuel rail" code, would this be due to the electric pump in the tank not supplying the fuel to the engine? If so I guess its time to do the fuel pump in the tank must be not pumping correctly and drawing to much power blowing the fuse and not supplying the rail with fuel. That's my working theory...anybody smarter than me please tell me if I'm thinking this through correctly! If i am then its time to drop the tank< I have searched the forum for instructions/ tips and the closest I get is the post on full removal and replacement I was talking tho the guy I bought the belly pans from and he said the tank will drop low enough to get at the fuel pump for removal..any tips would be greatly appreciated!!
  8. Been searching for one..no luck ...wires from the top of the fuel tank were I assume the fuel pump is go back into the engine compartment..there is a red black wire the in the bundle...which is the color at the SAM but its going in the wrong direction...:( which leads me to believe there is some electronic "box" in the engine compartment that the fuel pump goes to...possibly an engine ecm and then comes back to the front of the car in one of the covered looms...will have to dig around in the engine compartment...which will be a pain since I have her up on ramps!! Waiting for belly pans. On a positive note I found all the belly pans and fuel box from a guy wrecking a Smarty for $150 which beats MB"s $1400 I guess I'l; be able to eat for another month LOL
  9. Any ideas on were to look?? inspected wiring from tank to were they disappear in rear but all looks good SAM and connectors are mnt. s
  10. Update..I changed the fuel filter, Inspected the wiring don't see anything obvious , dropped the SAM all connections are pristine...will probably still do relays BUT am running out of ideas an why the fuel pump is blowing fuses??? Are there any weak places on the harness under the body that i should focus on?? continuity test fuel pump to ground?? ohm resistance fuel pump to ground??
  11. As a new Smarty owner I've been going to "U of Club Smart Car" for a month now and and have learned a lot and have pleasantly surprised at how helpful you guys have been! I am probably the most unlikely Smart Car owner... You've all seen me in your rear view mirror. All that time I thought you guys were nuts to be driving a "golf cart" on the highway! I also thought it must be terrifying driving a little Smarty when I was passing. Well I was WRONG! The 05/06 smart car shares a lot of the same technology as that big truck. same automated standard transmission as that big truck...(7 less gears,) diesel engine (1/16 the engine displacement) traction control, rear wheel drive and soon air horns....honestly guys I love my Smarty, it holds the road as good as that big truck and rides comparably but the horn...says excuse me...please...When it needs to say GET OUT OF MY WAY!! LOL !! Well my Luddite friends think I'm nuts. The ones that have a brain and understand mpg and safety think I'm brilliant,,, Plus its so much fun parking in the shopping buggy corral!
  12. Thanks! Your tutorial was excellent! I do have a couple of thing to add that I learned that saved me some time and frustration. #1.I learned form servicing my other diesel a big truck, to drain the fuel filter puncture the underside with a pointy chisel or nail, with a drain pan underneath, go have a coffee/beer and continue with step 4. By step 6. the filter should be mt take your time having coffee/beer and not more than one of the latter, LOL #2. If you are using the jobber fillers and have to remove the water sensor after removing the torx nuts bending the tabs back with a pair off needle nose pliers allow more room to twist the sensor back and forth while prying it out. #3 If you are going to service your smarty invest in a set of torx sockets/bits a cheap crappy tire/princess auto se will work fine and will save you money in the long run not to mention the money your already saving DYI As to dank1945"s interest in access i'd love to have Canman"s hydraulic ramps but I'm cheep $200 in lumber and hardware and you have a set of ramps!
  13. Thank to all!! for your interest and suggestions..Have been going to "Smart Car U" on this forum since i bought this little guy...It's been quite an education. My first Idea as to the fuel pump blowing fuses was restriction/plugging filter..So I figured I'd start by changing the fuel filter...but how do i get under the little guy...well you could buy a couple of jacks,stands ect.like a normal person, but lets face it guys normal people don't buy 10 year old diesel smart cars LOL, or you could go to the lumber store...see below. Now that my little smarty is comfortable 2 feet of the ground under I went under to take off the belly pans and change the fuel filter as per CANMAN's excellent tutorial. But when I got under the car I noticed the belly pans were all broken up along with the fuel cooler box..$500 for the belly pans and MB in their wisdom doesn"t sell just the box Oh NO! you have to buy the box and cooler $898...now i see why the guy sold this little guy with only 88k he took it 4x4 ing...moron !!. Anyway I'll deal with that later, wrecker parts or another smarty parts car..any suggestions would be appreciated on that. Well we finally got the fuel filter swapped out, can't tell if that made any difference as smarty"s still in the air, while i try to find belly pans. Did a thorough under the body inspection (like i should have done b4 i bought it) checked for obvious wiring problems and all seems good! I guess its time to pull the sam check the connections like AHZELA suggests and due the external rely upgrade...by then I should have sourced the parts belly pan ect, Well my wife said I needed a hobby..LOL
  14. Thanx..just wondering is there a fuel restriction idiot light? Wondering if a plugging filter would cause the pump to work harder and blow the fuse? Going to start with the obvious the sam module is loose..thinking of disconecting it checking the conections reinstalling it. Also put a new filter on and see..