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About NFB

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  • Location
    Milton, ontario
  1. Yes I see your point!
  2. Such a lame video showing what? Where does this zipper window come from? He's showing he glues in the window with what? Krazy glue? Whats the glass from? Obviously found a similar window for another make and model like this Audi example, but this one has heated glass!!
  3. CR1220 work great compared to the price of the CR1225. I like that its thin. I can stick a spare battery in the case in the event it dies. Thanks for the tip GRP!
  4. I have been using this rebuilder for over 18 yrs and he does quality work. His rebuilds have never let me down, never had a problem with any manufactures defects. I have changed may alternators with cracked cases due to rusting rotors and stators that are causing the problems. You can thank your local municipality for their generous road salting efforts. Keeps the body shops busy too! His price is $140 for Alternators and $90 for starters plus tax to the public.
  5. 1 year or 20,000KM (which ever comes first) warranty policy based on manufacturers defects ONLY
  6. I get my alternators rebuilt here in Toronto for $150 cash. PM me if anyone is interested. Takes about 2-3 hrs to replace. At $100 an hour thats what I charge. Saves driving to london if your in Toronto
  7. Where does the check valve plate appear in this photo? Is this from an earlier 450 model? What was the modification you did to improve its performance, did you stretch the spring to slow down the opening rate? From this picture it looks like the thermostat would unscrew from the housing. Perhaps a chemical adhesive with precision SS screws would have secured it indefinitely after the mod?
  8. Hi Guys Just wondering why the thermostat part is so expensive? As I recall it is just a bimetal spring that responds to water temperature. Is there a mod for it besides choking the water flow? I'm guessing once opened it can't be reglued unless its ABS material
  9. Do your pliers look like these?


    1. GRP151


      Very similar but not cable driven.

      Good guess!

  10. Electircal corrosion takes time to do its damage. Much quicker with a wet salty environment. The oily solution it a quick remedy. Don't wait if you have an older vehicle. Now is the time to spray especially if you have never done it.
  11. Couldn't do the job otherwise? Thats HOGWASH! It just shows your limited understanding of electronics 142! I've fixed many cars by spraying a mix of WD40 and tranny fluid in a pump bottle directed to the electrical terminal of the solenoid. Let it sit over night and the contacts that have 'CORROSION' (I know this is a new word for some of you) will start to allow the contacts to ( here's another new word for you 'CONDUCT' electrical current through to the solenoid. A half decent mechanic would NEVER let these contacts get this way, he would ALWAYS maintain good electical connection by spraying an oily solution on ALL electrical contacts. It is the best way to repel corrosive fluids like salt water or galvanic action. For those of you who don't know what that means I've posted the definition here...Galvanic corrosion (also called bimetallic corrosion) is an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes preferentially when it is in electrical contact with another, in the presence of an electrolyte.
  12. I like this idea of removing the injector and using a hose attached to a gauge. Friction fitting could be reliable to some degree especially if your doing it yourself. A 5/8" OD hose about 2-3 feet long should be sufficient to view the gauge while cranking the motor.
  13. Can you change the seal without removing the cover or does it install from inside?