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About RobCDI

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    Kamloops, B.C
  1. I know a good amount about cars and a good amount about smart cars but this problem has me puzzled. The passenger side of the engine bay is making a loud ticking/rattling sound. -constant tick at idle(about 2 ticks a second) -At speed it sounds like a rattling chain. -When i turn left the rattle gets worse -When i turn right the rattle gets quieter The sound has been getting worse, a few days ago; at idle it started making a click every few seconds(randomly, not on a timed cycle). I thought it might be the timing chain, tensioner, exhaust heat shield loose, exhaust gasket leak. I didnt see any soot in the engine bay but i will inspect further today. Any ideas? Ill upload a video later today
  2. This sums up my experience. Every bolt i would look at would take me 60 mins of heating, hammering, quenching, brushing with wire brush, then eventually snapping, drilling out, easy out would just slip/get near breaking point, then re-tap the bolt hole... On to the next one x 20. The bolts are all in hard locations too just to keep me on my toes. Im glad i didnt take it to the dealership, they would have charged $1700+ for the work.(Base labour and coolant change is over $600) I snapped one of my carbide steel drill bits off inside one of the snapped coolant pump bolts so that will be there forever and i will have 1 less bolt holding my coolant pump on. The bracket for the alternator tensioner is broken and the bolt is seized(im taking it to a welding shop today). While the alternator is out im going to give it a good cleaning so it hopefully lasts longer. There are two bolts that hold the "bottom triangle link" to the "strut" on out mcpherson strut front suspension. They are both loose on my front passenger side, it makes the car feel very unsafe to drive. I snapped my brake bleed bolt(rear driver side) I will be drilling out and replacing soon, i have bleed all the other corners so the braking feels unstable at the moment. After i have done that I will start preparing the car for winter.
  3. That is really smart to grease bolts. Im not sure about the bolt, i haven't done any work on the engine. Do you mean the nut im seeing from the wheel well(in pic) isnt the one to rotate? The pan does look very bad in the pic but its just dust/road grime/leaking coolant/penetrating oil. I gave it a wipe down and the whole area looks much cleaner. Last summer i thought my oil pan gasket was leaking so i took it off, painted it, resealed it then put it back. It turns out the oil filter wasnt on tight enough and that was leaking. Next time i take the pan off ill get one with a drain plug. Ill upload a video later just for curiosity sake
  4. My only hope is that the higher bolts that are harder to reach are out of the elements so will be corroded less. The mount cracked along the orange/red line. I cant find any mechanics to work on the car in a reasonable time frame so ill just keep heating/lubing/hammering the bolts one by one, i might lowwer the rear sub frame so it is hanging off the front center bushing
  5. Following this guide seems easy. All the bolts are rusted and the whole area is covered in dirt and rust. Even the first bolt(pully tensioner) after penetrating oil, hammer whack, and heat is taking a huge amount of force and isnt moving, i have a feeling i will accidentally snap it if i push harder. Im now considering taking the engine out. I have 2 full days to get this done I got one bolt out(ac tensioner bolt), the bolt that holds the alternator tension is stuck, i put so much force on it it snapped one of the arm of the slide it move across to clamp too. Im going to pressure wash the side of the engine tomorrow and buy a compressor, air impact wrench and hoses to help get these rusted bolts off
  6. I was going to do it today but the pump was late and i decided to get a new belt too. Thanks for the advice again, do you have any tips for making the removal easier? Also would you recommend new bolts to hold the coolant pump on($15 for bolts). Mercedes Quoted me $500 labour to change the pump, it gave me more determination to get it done myself. I plan on cleaning the area with a wire brush, then hitting the bolts with a hammer, then heating with a propane torch, hitting them again, then ill try and get them out with my ratchet. I have used penetrating oil a few times already So far im $20 coolant, $25 new belt, $115 water pump,
  7. Your prediction was correct, the coolant pump seal has gone. I ordered a new one @ $100 over night shipping. Im praying for no snapped bolts
  8. The car is sitting on flat ground. The lowwer drain bolt it tight and not leaking I dont think there is any irreversible damage, all the major moving parts are oiled. At worst there would have been a small air lock for a short time, it could have caused some heat related damage but there is a very small chance. I think it is most likely a high pressure air lock that blew out a seal or the coolant pump seal itself is leaking
  9. Thanks for the info, its 1am now so ill give it a good look over tomorrow, The only 2 bits i took off were the lower coolant plug and the expansion tank cap. I should have taken off the coolant temp sensor but i was feeling lazy and didnt. Im a bit worried. In this diagram(451 CDI, similar to 450 cdi) , 5 is the coolant pump, 7 is the thermostat. It is clearly leaking from the right side of the engine, im thinking it will either be the temp sensor or the water pump, if it is a temp sensor oring I will be very happy. If its a coolant pump i will be without a car for a week(cant work) and down $300-$500
  10. I did a basic coolant change(drain out of bottom,jack up front of the car, fill with new coolant untill is comes out, tighten drain bolt) and now I have a noticeable coolant leak. I'm guessing I airlocked the system and somehow cause a high pressure pocket to bust a gasket. It is dripping from the corner of the out pan next to the oil cooler. Does anyone have any ideas where it could be coming from?
  11. thanks for the info, i plan to use it to reduce the noise that has already gotten into the cabin, the smooth glass roof reflects a lot of sound
  12. I drove a lexus suv the other day, it was really quiet and seriously impressed me. When i drove my smart later that day I was trying to pin point where the sound leaks were. The loudest sound while cruising is road noise from the tires, then wind noise from the tailgate, doors, and side windows. Im going to take off the plastic door panels and cover them in sound absorbing mat($35 and easy), Put some sound absorbing foam like in the pic below on the inside of the roof(glass roof with vinyl wrap over top) and on the back of the seats($15), a second rubber/foam door seal all around the lower part of the doors($10). Total $60 cad. Im not sure what i will do about the road noise from the tires. My last car was a straight pipe mx5. No sound insulation with a convertible roof, 3500rpm at 90km/h. It was crazy loud and i grew to hate it, when i first got my smart it was a breath of fresh air for my ears.
  13. The metal looks really thin and would be hard to weld. It might be easier to just straight pipe it or put a new muffler in.
  14. I need to do this soon. My car has gone from 1 handed easy steering when stopped, to two handed hard steering when rolling.
  15. Well done. I get the same knocking at low rpm with high load.