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About RobCDI

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  • Location
    Kamloops, B.C
  1. Your prediction was correct, the coolant pump seal has gone. I ordered a new one @ $100 over night shipping. Im praying for no snapped bolts
  2. The car is sitting on flat ground. The lowwer drain bolt it tight and not leaking I dont think there is any irreversible damage, all the major moving parts are oiled. At worst there would have been a small air lock for a short time, it could have caused some heat related damage but there is a very small chance. I think it is most likely a high pressure air lock that blew out a seal or the coolant pump seal itself is leaking
  3. Thanks for the info, its 1am now so ill give it a good look over tomorrow, The only 2 bits i took off were the lower coolant plug and the expansion tank cap. I should have taken off the coolant temp sensor but i was feeling lazy and didnt. Im a bit worried. In this diagram(451 CDI, similar to 450 cdi) , 5 is the coolant pump, 7 is the thermostat. It is clearly leaking from the right side of the engine, im thinking it will either be the temp sensor or the water pump, if it is a temp sensor oring I will be very happy. If its a coolant pump i will be without a car for a week(cant work) and down $300-$500
  4. I did a basic coolant change(drain out of bottom,jack up front of the car, fill with new coolant untill is comes out, tighten drain bolt) and now I have a noticeable coolant leak. I'm guessing I airlocked the system and somehow cause a high pressure pocket to bust a gasket. It is dripping from the corner of the out pan next to the oil cooler. Does anyone have any ideas where it could be coming from?
  5. thanks for the info, i plan to use it to reduce the noise that has already gotten into the cabin, the smooth glass roof reflects a lot of sound
  6. I drove a lexus suv the other day, it was really quiet and seriously impressed me. When i drove my smart later that day I was trying to pin point where the sound leaks were. The loudest sound while cruising is road noise from the tires, then wind noise from the tailgate, doors, and side windows. Im going to take off the plastic door panels and cover them in sound absorbing mat($35 and easy), Put some sound absorbing foam like in the pic below on the inside of the roof(glass roof with vinyl wrap over top) and on the back of the seats($15), a second rubber/foam door seal all around the lower part of the doors($10). Total $60 cad. Im not sure what i will do about the road noise from the tires. My last car was a straight pipe mx5. No sound insulation with a convertible roof, 3500rpm at 90km/h. It was crazy loud and i grew to hate it, when i first got my smart it was a breath of fresh air for my ears.
  7. The metal looks really thin and would be hard to weld. It might be easier to just straight pipe it or put a new muffler in.
  8. I need to do this soon. My car has gone from 1 handed easy steering when stopped, to two handed hard steering when rolling.
  9. Well done. I get the same knocking at low rpm with high load.
  10. Im bleeding the breaks and topping up the AC. Im sick at this point of taking off the front bumper. I have done it twice recently for headlights.
  11. I already had the hoses and the redtek cans were on sale for $10/can. I think 2 cans($20 + 45 mins) and my a/c has worked well for 2 years(still working well). It struggles to cool the car over 36c but it blows ice cold. Better than driving to a shop, spending, $250, 1 day wait, then clean my car due to messy mechanics. You are clearly taking your anger out on propane based a/c systems because you cant understand the basic instructions how to use them. 1)Make sure your ac system has no pressure(plug in closed off guage to low pressure side) 2) fill low pressure side with can upside down, turn on car and ac then empty the rest of the liquid into the ac system(as soon as the can feels empty close the valve so not to over pressure the system) 3) if your ac system requires more OZ of refrigerant add another can as in step 2
  12. I had a RWD 2010 chrysler 300, the smart car is a lot better in winter than the chrysler. The ground clearance is fine(save your money), i would highly recommend good winter tires on all wheels. The only negative difference i noticed with the smart is the front wheel braking grip is bad. When you lightly apply the breaks on any car, only the front brakes engage. So on an icy road, if you lightly apply the breaks the fronts lock up and abs activates. This is due to no weight over the front and the small tires, cornering grip is really good. In general the car is amazing on slippery roads due to less weight being thrown around. I used my smart as a delivery car last winter and i was the only driver that didnt get stuck(most others drive civics). The car has its limits but i would say it is about the same as any other 2wd car in winter. With good winter tires it will be better than a 4x4 pickup with all seasons. The ESP is the best i have ever seen. On an icy down hill highway i could swerve for fun and the car would slide but the esp would apply breaks on the outside wheels of the car and it would straighten back up perfectly in a stable manner. The car knows your steering angle too so if you make a hard turn on ice and start to slide it will apply the inside breaks and you will turn like a tank(very fun and impressive on ice) If you want something to do to prepare the car for winter; make a grill block for the upper grill, block off the cabin air intake on the front of the car, check the battery, starter, and glow plugs are all working well. Maybe rustproof the underside of the car.
  13. I have gone through 5 headlights and 3 tail lights in the last 4 months. The problem is cooling, i use my car as a delivery car and sitting in 40c+ heat, in the sun, with the lights on, for 10 mins + cooks the lights and they burn out. I might reactivate the drls in winter but i still have to turn the lights on when its dark out anyway, so i might just leave them off.
  14. cleaned the car inside and out(feels like a different car) I did an oil+ filter change Knocked the dust out of the air filter Fixed my sticky door latch by removing the outer and inner door panel(huge pain in the ass but it works well now)
  15. " Door cable. It's quite common for this to appear when the wether warms up.The cable stops movin freely within its sheath.Replacement part is about £10 I think and can be replaced by yourself or the garage will do it for about £60. " I think this might be the problem. I have a cable lube tool i will try on it