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About RobCDI

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    Kamloops, B.C
  1. Accessing or cleaning the interior is not an option due to the design unfortunately. The cheapest option for a dirty actuator is buying an emulator :/
  2. Ah I see, I was assuming the carbon buildup was shielding the central rod, making it seem further away and out of spec. 0 kOhms would be rod all the way inside the actuator, 2.7 kOhms would be fully extended? My 1.4kOhms (fully inside) and 3.8 kOhms (fully extended) reading was i thought due to Carbon buildup
  3. The actuator isn't sticky, there is just dirt inside the actuator(from dirty oil) which is increasing the electrical resistance reading on shaft movement. Unfortunately you cant repair the actuators due to their design and you cant buy just the actuators (you have to buy the whole egr) I took a drill, hammer, and grinder to the EGR actuator, I don't think its possible to service it without destroying it.
  4. I think you may be misunderstanding. The EGR piston gets clogged with exhaust soot and gets sticky. I have cleaned that completely with a 2 hour soak in oven cleaner, it moves completely freely and looks shiny and new. The actuator is the component that plugs into the wiring harness, i currently have it off the car. Im seeing high resistance with the actuator on a work bench. i tried filling the actuator completely full with contact cleaner through its vent hole and running a drill connected to the actuator shaft to try and spin it up and clean any gunk inside the actuator. This gave no luck. Before i spend $100 and a 2 week wait on an emulator ill try drilling a hole in the side of the actuator to see if i can clean it that way
  5. Long story short i got some dirty oil into my EGR actuator and now im getting p0409. Between pins 3 and 4 im getting 3.8k Ohms resistance where the specs call for 0 to 2.7 kOhms. Is there any way i can take apart the actuator to clean it?
  6. I was going to preemptively sort out the egr last summer but I was lazy so I didnt. Running the car in really cold weather clogged my egr So i filmed a video on the quickest, easiest, and cheapest way to deal with the smart 450 cdi EGR valve issues. It doesn't require many tools or any complex mechanical activities, all you need is a bit of patience and about 1 hour.
  7. Final update, It turns out that the clutch was just wearing, I adjusted the actuator by feel, (loosened the 3 bolts) moving it closer to the clutch. Now the car is working flawlessly. In future i will either have to change the clutch plate if it naturally wears out with use, or if the rod pushes through the fork ill weld a nut on the end of the actuator rod.
  8. My 2006 CDI with 190,000km has started having shifting problems. Im going to run through my diagnosis in order to hopefully help others that develop this problem. Problem: Car was shifting fine, then it was making a creaking noise with shifting(lubricated it), then it was intermittently failing to downshift followed by 3 bars (temporary solution, switch the car to neutral, turn off and restart the car), Now the car is failing to shift gears about 50% of the time, and when the car is stopped in first gear it makes a strange vibration(no clutch drag). I drive on a lot of dusty gravel roads, very dry environment. Common problems are clutch actuator wiring, clutch actuator issue, or clutch fork wear, where the actuator rod pushes on the fork. As of right now, a new actuator is $450 cad shipped, new fork is $85. Diagnosis: Ill drive the back of the car onto ramps, get under the car and see if the clutch actuator has slipped(unlikely), then I will put penetrating oil on the 3 clutch actuator bolts. Ill unplug the electronic plug for the actuator and check the wires for fraying. Then I will mark the position of the actuator on the car with permanent marker. I will hit the head of the '3 actuator bolts' hard with a hammer a few times, then take my propane torch to try and heat the areas the bolts thread into. Ill gently try to remove the bolts and not snap them, if they don't come out, ill re apply penetrating oil and repeat the hammer and heat process until they do come out. Once the actuator is off, ill examine the actuator rod for signs of wear(if the rod has punched through the fork). Ill take a pic on my phone of the fork through the hole and see if the fork is in ok condition. That will tell me what my problem is (im going to guess wiring fray due to bumpy roads, clutch actuator sluggishness due to lots of dust getting in, or lots of clutch fork wear). I will give the actuator a good cleaning and regreasing (if this fails ill order a new actuator) If the rod has worn a hole in the fork I will try to weld a washer on the actuator rod to increase contact patch between the rod and the fork. Ill update this post until the problem is fixed.
  9. I would like to roate my egr core 180 degrees to blank it out, if my egr system is not already clogged at 180,000kms. Does anyone have any tips how to remove the core?
  10. This seemed like a good and fair review. If im not mistaken there is nothing else like the smart diesels. Its odd to think that the smart car is now becoming more of a collector car. in 2025 the canadian 450s will all be eligible for collector plates(due to smart no longer selling cars for 5 years and them being 15 years old).
  11. The red interior looks really good. I have always wanted a car with red interior white exterior
  12. I know a good amount about cars and a good amount about smart cars but this problem has me puzzled. The passenger side of the engine bay is making a loud ticking/rattling sound. -constant tick at idle(about 2 ticks a second) -At speed it sounds like a rattling chain. -When i turn left the rattle gets worse -When i turn right the rattle gets quieter The sound has been getting worse, a few days ago; at idle it started making a click every few seconds(randomly, not on a timed cycle). I thought it might be the timing chain, tensioner, exhaust heat shield loose, exhaust gasket leak. I didnt see any soot in the engine bay but i will inspect further today. Any ideas? Ill upload a video later today
  13. This sums up my experience. Every bolt i would look at would take me 60 mins of heating, hammering, quenching, brushing with wire brush, then eventually snapping, drilling out, easy out would just slip/get near breaking point, then re-tap the bolt hole... On to the next one x 20. The bolts are all in hard locations too just to keep me on my toes. Im glad i didnt take it to the dealership, they would have charged $1700+ for the work.(Base labour and coolant change is over $600) I snapped one of my carbide steel drill bits off inside one of the snapped coolant pump bolts so that will be there forever and i will have 1 less bolt holding my coolant pump on. The bracket for the alternator tensioner is broken and the bolt is seized(im taking it to a welding shop today). While the alternator is out im going to give it a good cleaning so it hopefully lasts longer. There are two bolts that hold the "bottom triangle link" to the "strut" on out mcpherson strut front suspension. They are both loose on my front passenger side, it makes the car feel very unsafe to drive. I snapped my brake bleed bolt(rear driver side) I will be drilling out and replacing soon, i have bleed all the other corners so the braking feels unstable at the moment. After i have done that I will start preparing the car for winter.
  14. That is really smart to grease bolts. Im not sure about the bolt, i haven't done any work on the engine. Do you mean the nut im seeing from the wheel well(in pic) isnt the one to rotate? The pan does look very bad in the pic but its just dust/road grime/leaking coolant/penetrating oil. I gave it a wipe down and the whole area looks much cleaner. Last summer i thought my oil pan gasket was leaking so i took it off, painted it, resealed it then put it back. It turns out the oil filter wasnt on tight enough and that was leaking. Next time i take the pan off ill get one with a drain plug. Ill upload a video later just for curiosity sake