RobCDI

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About RobCDI

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  • Location
    Kamloops, B.C
  1. Im going to block off both front grills and the cabin air intake tomorrow. Ill upload some pics when i get some time to upload them.
  2. My car doesnt have an alternator cover on the bottom of the car. Im going to spray the underside with gloss rust paint before winter hits to protect all the metal parts. I will drive in slush a lot so i guess i should buy/make an alternator protector. Well done with the fix, sounded like a pain.
  3. We had a few 1 deg c mornings last week. I get a free bus pass so i will just take the bus for my 10 min commute on the really cold mornings. Pm'd lebikerboy. Its a 2006, the oem "blockheater" is an oil pan heater. I had to take it off when I took off my oil sump. I cleaned it and put it back and it all looks in good condition. Something like this $9 cad would get the oil nice and warm. I used one on my first gen mx5's 1.6L gas and it got the oil nice and warm even in -35c. http://www.ebay.com/itm/110V-175W-Heater-Pad-Silicone-Oil-Pan-Sump-Tank-Pre-Heater-Car-Engine-Protection/322118678373?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D47507%26meid%3D18ef2ac92efa4bd58e07554698c7d5b1%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D252637034220&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
  4. The cable for the built in pan heater is hard to find and not cheaper than $30. You can buy "glue on" pan heaters for $30, Anyone know where i can get cheap cables or should i just go with the glue on unit?
  5. Im thinking for this winter how would be best to warm the engine up. Firstly, Should I let it idle to warm up or start driving as soon as the oil is flowing(say 20 seconds after start)? The car has a diesel, the cold burn at idle will cause a lot of soot buildup and it will dirty the engine(not good). So after the car has run for about 30 seconds you should drive gently at low rpm, low engine load. The problem here is the car is a turbo so if you use low rpm(1600) and actually want to drive normal speeds the turbo will have to spool up quite high to give you power(probably not great with freezing temp oil and components). If I drive with higher rpm/low boost(for extra power) I get more engine wear. I would predict that the best starting routine in winter would be to let the car run for 30 seconds, slowly drive away going gentle on the throttle, stay around 2000 rpm and try to avoid spooling the turbo too much. This should be the kindest start on your engine.
  6. If anyone has wheels or other spare parts for 2005-2015 smart cars I would love to know. Myself and my housemates now have 3 smart cars between us(1 diesel and 2 gas). If anyone is selling spare parts for cheap or has any wheels or tires I would be interested in buying them. We have a spare front lip off a 2008.
  7. I hate when you park a perfectly good working car then something goes wrong in the garage. I would say a combination of seized alternator, moderately gummed up fuel system, and slightly degraded oil. If they haven't had an oil change for a while i would recommend sea foam in the oil before change. Spirited driving with some diesel fuel conditioner/cleaner(i linked what i recommend) for the next 5-10 fill ups. For the alternator spray some penetrating oil in it, hopefully that will loosen it up a bit. http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/power-service-diesel-kleen-cetane-boost-473-ml-0388048p.html#srp
  8. Replaced reluctor rings. It wasnt too bad but i would recommend undoing the bottom shock absorber bolt to make it 100% easier. Sanding the rust off was a pain, i did 1 coat of rust paint on the new ring and will rust seal the whole underside of the car before this winter. Housemate recharged his 451 ac with too much refrigerant and we could hear it slugging. I told him to stop and not use his ac until we take out some refrigerant. The next day he sent me a few videos of the slugging noise(no idea why as i told him i knew what it was and not to use it). I got angry at him and told him to not use it at all until we have time to reduce refrigerant or he will break his compressor. He completely disregarded, and now his ac compressor is broken.
  9. I just used a bucket of dish soap and water and a cheap dish sponge, then dried it off with kitchen towel. If you can park your car on level ground that will help a lot.
  10. Good idea, when i get time ill do it. it is sounding a lot quieter now but cleaning it out wont hurt.
  11. Thanks, ill lube it today and see if that helps edit: the squeak was 100% the clutch actuator, lubed it with silicone spray lube and now its really quiet. There was also about 2 teaspoons of sand in the boot
  12. I went to replace the cabin air filter, it was really dusty and had a lot of spider webs and pine needles. The engine air filter was packed with dust, the whole housing was full of a thick powder. I had to vacuum it out then wiped the housing down with a wet cloth. I tried to buy new air filters but the two shops i tried didn't have any in stock. Ill order them online. Before i put the filters back I vacuumed them and cleaned them the best I could, it was amazing the amount of dirt i got out of them. It might be a placebo but i swear the car runs a lot better, I vacuumed out the car interior and cleaned the dash and with the clean cabin filter the car feels like im in a clinical dust free zone.
  13. In general does the car sound normal? My diesels in the past have all sounded loud and this is how my smart sounded when i bought it. The dash lights are due to a bad wheel speed sensor electrical connection, and a glow plug problem(or glow plug connection problem)
  14. They fit, its not an exact fit but its close.
  15. ill try my floor mats in my friends 451 and let you know tonight. As a guess i would say yes. they have a very similar layout.