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About RobCDI

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  • Location
    Kamloops, B.C
  1. Food for thought: Our smart cdi's can just about produce enough engine heat to heat the cabin in winter. If we increase thermal efficiencies of engines more than they are now, then presumably a high thermal efficiency small engine wont be able to produce enough heat to heat the cabin in winter. This means it will have to rely on electric heating and that will put more load on the engine. Burning the fuel to produce heat is more efficient than converting it to work, then converting that to electricity, then converting that to heat. As safety, and emission standards get higher; i dont think we will see a better fuel efficiency car than the 450 smart cdi's.(*In winter *that can produce a comfortable temp in cabin)
  2. I have had problems with oil changes too. 1st I ended up taking the oil pan off. 2nd I took it to a shop and they filled the engine with 5L of oil. I decided to get a pump and do it the easy way. It seemed there are no robust pumps for under $120 near me or online because of expensive shipping. I thought i could get a $50 2hp shop vac and a $40 fluid extractor ( That would do it and i would have a shop vac as a bonus. It turns out princess auto has a oil extractor for $20 in stock and one of the reviews said they used it to drain oil out of a smart car. My housemate with his 2008 just hit 20,000km since his last oil change so i will change his oil too(his car is sounding like a diesel) Also as a side note Im noticing on buy and sells the older diesel Smarts are going up in value and are becoming more expensive than early gas models
  3. Good post For the F350 the diesel is $10,000 more expensive and it WILL need $20,000 repairs in the first 10 years. The gas version gets the same fuel economy, Practically the same power, and is much more reliable, when it does need repairs its alot cheaper to fix too. Before anyone says it the towing is the exact same if you select the right gearing. After my diesel f350 i said i would never buy a diesel again. The smart is an exception but im still cautious of it
  4. I have a video of me this time last year riding my motorbike in sunny 20c weather. This morning it was 2C. In 2 weekends its supposed to be 26c, when the hot weather hits it will hit hard
  5. Yeah, its tempting. Im driving a lot of km now so a prius would cost me $700/year more in fuel. Its not too much more for a high tech car. If I ever get bored of my smart i will go for a prius as a daily. $5500 $5000(black one on left) For an electric car I did the math for me and it would cost me $40/week in electricity that i work (300kWh) vs $30 current (20L diesel) Also these cars cost around $5000-$8000. A cheap electric car(say 2013 leaf) would be at least double that with a big battery replacement bill in the next 2-6 years.
  6. I love my 2006 smart cdi but dont want to be blind to better technologies. I live in a hilly city with extreme temp ranges, this has a huge affect on fuel economy. I did a lot of research and this is what i noticed: -CDI will get about 2L/100km better fuel economy -Prius would be a little bit more expensive -Prius is more comfortable/luxurious with better tech inside Similar running costs and maintenance costs I had a quick look at electric cars and theoretically they would reduce my Diesel bill from $100/week to $20/week in electricity. BUT with the heater or A/C on high every day for 5 hours I expect i wouldnt have the range and the electricity bill would more realistically be $50/month If anyone has extra insight into comparing the two cars i would love to know
  7. Yeah, I have tinted 3 cars before its not too bad if you have the right tools. +1 on the night shade on the plastic windows. What tint % is your car lead wing? It looks good
  8. I did the door handle window bits and every window rear of that 20% tint my self. It cost about $30 and took about 2 hours, perfect no bubbles. This summer im going to vinyl wrap the roof to keep the car cooler, and possibly tint all windows(not front window) something like 15%. I will have to take the old tint off which is a huge pain in the ass.
  9. This(2.4L 5 speed man) Gets better fuel economy than this (3.5L auto 5) The truck uses 2L/100km less fuel. Ths is more common than i thought, SUV's and small trucks usually get around the same fuel economy as sedans. The running costs are basically the same too. I wish someone told me that when i was younger. I used to daily drive a first gen mx5 in the north of BC(painful in winter but i loved the car) and I averaged 8.5l/100km. If i would have known i could have had a truck like the first picture for the SAME running costs(and price) i would have probably switched.
  10. How much is a new/used CDI engine in B.C?
  11. Your interior is really nice. It makes me want to change mine. Hopefully the problem will be fixed.
  12. This was the state of the car (dirty, blocked off cabin air intake and top rad intake) The underside was much worse and when i went to the car wash there was a huge line so i had to rush and didnt do a good job cleaning it. -For the fuel filter it was easy, the only problem i had was the bolt that holds the bracket to the car, i got it half way out then rounded the head. Not a huge problem but now the filter holder is a little loose(bolt wouldn't come out). -Trans fluid was really easy too, only problem was I used a very small hose to refill it so it took about 30 mins of slow pouring the atf into the hose. -Oil change was going well but after taking off the filter, barely any oil drained(~500ml) and my hand pump would have taken an eternity to pump the rest of the oil out. Im going to get a local shop to suck the oil out at 8:30am tomorrow morning for $10. Im going to see if they will take out the fuel filter bolt i rounded and replace it for cheap, if not its super easy to get to so i can just buy a tool and do it. I did most of the other simple stuff but because the underside was so dirty i couldn't paint or lube the underside without risking extra dirt ingress along with the lube. Ill sponge clean it and lube the underside tomorrow. As for adjusting the clutch actuator im worried the bolts will break and have to work tomorrow afternoon so i will wait for a break and warmer weather before I try.
  13. Thanks for the helpful reply tolsen, ill have a look at the pulley and if it seems ok ill hold out until the summer to replace. Ill do all the other stuff mentioned too.
  14. So im going to do a big service on my car this weekend. The car had no service records(90,000 km). The car was sitting for about 2 years before i bought it so it should drive a lot better after i have done the work. -Oil + filter(5w-40 synthetic is in car): im going to replace with 0w-40 rotella t6 and a new stock filter(its tiny) next time i will do the spin on filter upgrade. -Transmission fluid Full synthetic moto master dextron VI, 1.4L. Dextron VI is backward compatible to Dex III and Dex III is back ward compatible to Dex II(what MB specs) -Fuel filter I will have to swap the water filter over and be extra careful not to get it wet. -Coolant I tested the coolant and it is good, I might replace in summer with an additive for piece of mind -Bleed brakes Dot 3 simple bleed -Misc lithium spray actuator lube locks/hinges polish headlights This website is really useful. Ill roughly document it here
  15. I just sold my 1990 base spec stock NA mx5(with hard top and nb rims) for $4100, rusty, good paint but needs work, 280,000kms. For the same price you could get a top spec(never available in canada) NB mx5, no rust, 85,000km. I drove my old mx5 about 70,000km in temps from -37c to +41c. PERFECT reliability, started with ease every time. I was going to replace it with a newer Japanese one but then i saw the smart car and got that instead.