NeilsSmartOnAegina

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About NeilsSmartOnAegina

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  • Location
    Aegina Island Greece
  1. Morning All, thankyou for all the advice and help, I did not get them to move at all so I gave up and took it to my local garage and my engineer I use I asked how he loosened stubborn injectors. He went to his bench, and after a search in the mountain of spanners and hammers and wrenches he came up with strange looking tool that he explained he had made.. I asked if he could show me how it worked and he loosened one of the clamps and pop out it came two out of three worked the last one (Center) did not budge, He loosened the clamp 1/2 a turn and started the car and watched the bottom of the injector when it leaked , switched off the engine the clamp loosened and all three were loose. I now have them loose and he charged me 15 euros for the help, I now can clean them and get going again.. So again thankyou all for your help and advice... Neil
  2. Sorry being a bit dense here I know and have acetone but what is ATF?
  3. Its as black as it can be its an embarrassing cloud when the engine is under strain.. when it gives up going up a hill I put it in manual 1st and rev up to see if I can get up the hill it leaves a perfect spot of black on the road which is good for me as I can see if anything I do improves it and I can get past the mark. I will have another go before taking it in to the garage... thanks for the comments
  4. Thanks for all the advice, I have had a local blacksmith make me a slide hammer one with a hardened fork and one with a screw thread that screws on to the top thread of the injector I soaked the joint in carb cleaner overnight but they still will not budge, the blacksmith even had a go as I said it had not worked but to no avail. So next week I will take it to the garage and see if they have any better ideas or maybe a bigger hammer than I have... I will keep you posted with the outcome.. thanks again for the help...
  5. Hi Willys.... Sorry got the mileage a little wrong it should read 200,000 and I have tried to remove the injectors but they are really stuck and I cannot move them any advice would be great , and thankyou for the post back. Neil
  6. I have a Smart 450 2007 with 20000k on the clock, I have had it stored for a couple of years and went to it a couple of weeks ago, connected the battery and it started first time. I noticed it was a bit smokey so I purchased the fuel treatment and all was good until now, It has now lost power and its creating smoke even at slow revs, I have removed and cleaned the EGR valve and its now sparkling once reassembled it still smokes... any thoughts would be useful.. thanks in advance
  7. I have a Smart 450 2007 with 20000k on the clock, I have had it stored for a couple of years and went to it a couple of weeks ago, connected the battery and it started first time. I noticed it was a bit smokey so I purchased the fuel treatment and all was good until now, It has now lost power and its creating smoke even at slow revs, I have removed and cleaned the EGR valve and its now sparkling once reassembled it still smokes... any thoughts would be useful.. thanks in advance
  8. Thanks for that I live on a very small Greek island and at the moment the temperature never drops below 25 degrees do you think this will be Ok...
  9. Hello all, I have my 2007 450 for two and I have had both electric window mechanisms fail within 3 months, I have fixed one side (Drivers) and now I need to do the passenger side.. the problem is on taking the skin off to get the the broken part I cracked the door skin. My question is has any one a secret method of getting the skin off without pushing it with your knee? Thanks in advance Neil
  10. Yes he just joined the wire as one end was in the connector on the battery and then other end disappeared behind the dashboard somewhere.. so we decided to do a cut and shut but he made sure the joint was strong by soldering it all the best neil
  11. Ok so I have tried to explain what happened and looking at the problem and fix. I have taken a picture of the battery area and the RED wire from the positive side of the battery... I gave taken off some of the electrical tape to show the colour. The wire here looked like it had been stretched/pulled as when we cut the outer sleeve we had about 5 strands of copper …. We cut the wire and the engineer cleaned and soldered the ends back together and used a heat shrink sleeve to protect the joint … after this all checked out Ok and the motor started no problems... Hope this helps and explains the problem... and I must thank everybody for all their help and support with this lengthy problem Neil
  12. I would like to say that I have no problem with any of the fantastic advice and help you all gave with the three bar problem.... It would still be sitting on the driveway if no body had answered so I am very grateful to you all and hope if I had a problem in the future you would be there to help again.. About the starter it was my decision to purchase a new one and I can now drive the car knowing that the starter is new and will not be a future problem, also it was an education to get the old one out and replace it and has given an insight into the engine and the compactness of the components.... Looking at the wiring that the garage had tried to reroute and cover I have now more confidence that the routing will not be a problem in the future so all in all it has bee a great experience and again thankyou to all who commented...
  13. All Well after all the problems and time spent... I want to thank for all of the thoughts, comments and ideas.... Today I took it to the garage, they tested the battery and all was Ok, it was then plugged in to the great Mercedes computer in the sky and it came up with two problems.... firstly the coolant level was a bit low.... this will not stop it starting.... then after another werring it told us the cable on the pos side of the battery had a problem. They then using a connection meter (continuity) it all told them it was connected and had no problems.... The engineer then said he had seen this before and removed the large cable going to the front of the car, not to the back of the car (engine) he then put it on a meter and it told him all was Ok but he felt the cable length and cut a small part of the insulation back in the centre of the cable and showed me... the cable strands were full and then went down to about 5/6 strands then back up to the full amount... he said its down to whoever had worked on the electrics had over stretched this cable. He cut the cable at the problem site bared a section and soldered the two halves together and once the heat shrink was srunk to cover the join. Back on the tester and no problems as he topped the coolant for me at the same time.... Then into the driver seat and magically all started Ok...……… So thankyou again all of your comments were great and helped me understand the problem I was having but Im not sure I would have found this and all the checking devices told me it was Ok... Oh any body need a perfect starter motor? Neil
  14. Hello Willys Thanks for the post but I have a ZEE unit not a SAM I have checked this and all looks great... Neil
  15. Im sorry it was not clear... I was trying to check that the positive side on=f the battery cable was not shorted to the continuity check gave no beep... Yes I do mean the tab on the starter.. I have also checked the key switch this afternoon and it all looks great So I revisited the starter relay under the seat I used the wire and the switch that you told me about some time ago and now I get the starter turning but very sluggish when I use the switch...