kelaog

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About kelaog

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    Port Moody, BC
  1. Finally received my KWP 2000 Plus in the mail...Dog at the software/driver CD but I found a copy of it on the interweb. Having issues getting this to work in Win10 (64 bit). From searching around on the internet this thing only works on 32 bit versions of windows (XP Era)... I'm not that tech savy anymore despite at one point in my life running an IT consulting company but how has everyone here gotten around this issue? Would a virtual machine running XP work? Or truly do I need to flash a laptop with XP to tune my car :S
  2. PS: thank you for this guide. It is very helpful!
  3. I wouldn't worry so much about it. I've ran it for years and never had an issue with the stuff... At most you'll suffer a 1-3% loss in fuel economy. It is only really an issue in marine applications or when the fuel is stored for long periods of time because it absorbs water and the fuel rots...That being said, I also ran it on my boat so long as I knew I'd burn through it that weekend. Ethanol has a higher octane rating so it's often blended into gasoline to increase the octane number. Higher octane number does not mean more power. Simply stated it is resistance to knock. Your smart requires it because it runs high compression and highly advanced valve timing (some of them are turbo charged). They've done this to squeeze as much power as permitable out of a tiny engine to make it driveable. Modern engines will de-tune themselves when knock--complicated subject to explain--is detected( from useage of lower octane) to protect its self but the result is an enriched fuel mixture, lower power, and worse fuel economy. However, it is reactive so it(knock) is damaging your engine before it starts to back off timing and richen the mixture up. So yes you can run 87 if you really wanted to but it will cost you in mileage and engine durability. Run what the manual tells you to, in any car... IE: If a car says run 87, don't put 91 in it. Likewise, your car tells you to run 91, run it. Of course it's much safer to run 91 in a car that requires 87 than running 87 in a car that requires 91. If you want to know what knock sounds like, it kind of sounds like keys dangling around in your engine compartment or the sound of rain on a tin roof. It's can range from very loud to non audible depending on severity. Common joke among my friends who have spent years building expensive high horsepower engines is Knock knock who's there? A new engine.
  4. I've just ordered a blanking plate and egr emulator off of ebay. Does anyone know the inner diameter of the egr cooler hoses being removed? I'd rather just order some silicon caps and be done with it :). Wish I checked when I changed my thermostat... And don't suppose you could lend a guy your beading tool or fabricate me a pipe for a few $
  5. I'm beginning to think the most accurate fuel economy calculation is going to be with a scan gauge. I tried filling slowly to eliminate the foaming issue and I was able to get almost 11 litres in there before it was visibly full from half empty which is almost as much as I would normally fill from 'empty'. Filling to the click is probably not consistent due to foaming. with this 'full' tank, I did manage over 120 km on the first blob, the second and third fell off quite quickly. That was probably 75% highway. I don't think I'll reach 400 km on this tank even with a good amount of highway driving. I usually let the auto do its thing but I have started intervening and shifting it down. It likes to hang up around 3000 rpm a lot. I'm not sure how to adjust the nut behind the steering wheel, is it hard to get to?
  6. Last tank I got 4.7 L/100 km with maybe a 75/25% city/highway mix. City mileage of course for me is a lot of stop and go. I am happy with these results and I'm hoping they'll improve with the use of fuel conditioner. I did notice a bit smoother running around 2k after a good dosage of conditioner. I'm using the Kleen Flow diesel conditioner. I calculated for my tank I need about 8 ml and I've been adding 16 ml. My first blob seems to only ever last about 50 km. I have a feeling that I am filling the car wrong. While I'm happy with the mileage I don't think I could get 400 km on a tank like some of you report. I think I'd be empty around 300. I can only ever get about 13 L in there. If it's a 22L tank that means I've got 5 L of reserve and another 5 L of foam? Wondering what else could cause bad fuel economy on this car other than low tire pressure. Transmission fluid?
  7. My bet is during the service they unplugged something accidentally and didn't plug it back in triggering a flood of fault codes. How a mechanic can collect a pay cheque after returning a car with 12 fault codes more than it came in with and send you on your way is beyond me. Don't let them tell you it's not a big deal until the codes are gone and they do not return on your drive home. God damn Mercedes dealers =\
  8. Hmm, in my preliminary research I found that most people said it was far more economical to swap the car rather than installing A/C. I have no issue about doing this however, factory will always be better. Any cases of this being done? I was just going to build a small system and cut a whole in the factory ducting and use a forced air fan and a flapper from there. I haven't played around with Peltier systems much, but considering I only need 300-500W it's economical in this application. 4 of them with the cold side and a heat sink inserted into a square duct would probably work quite well. With a small radiator and an small aquarium pump to cool the hot side. Depending on what the factory ducting looks like I could install this downstream of the fan for OEM like functionality D: Will order parts and get to tinkering over the break coming up I think all of this can fit under the front bonnet from pictures I've seen online. This is gonna be fun
  9. Oh really? I did not know that. When was power steering an available option? for the 451? I can live without P/S Shame I really like the car, I have now established a baseline with it but I'm not sure I can live with no a/c in the spring/summer here during a stop/go commute. Only other option is for me to build an A/C system. I calculated already I'd only need about 300W of cooling (500 realistically with poor insulation). I do enjoy a good engineering project outside of work D:
  10. You probably had a gummed up injector and the seafoam cleared it out. Lucky that all it took was a cheap can of liquid mechanic. In my experience that's rarely the case but good on you
  11. I think the service was just really behind and combined with a bad thermostat resulted in the bad economy. The sad part is I took this car to a well known mechanic prior to buying it because I did not have the time to inspect it thoroughly myself. I am wondering what I paid for? I mean other than the bad thermostat everything is in perfect working order...for now. If this thing has a performance tune I can't even imagine driving it factory LOL. My plan was to buy the laptop tuner connector and put the bytesharp? Byteshooter tune on it. Last couple maintenance items I am still waiting on, new fuel filter (although I may as well wait until the light comes on based on what I've read here) and a syringe to measure out my fuel conditioner. Is your car tuned? I've never attempted such a speed with the car but have got it up to 115/120 no issue. I just filled the tank last night and reset the odometer, so I'll see what kind of fuel economy I get this week to/from work. Will post the results On second thought I think I've decided to sell this car (Pulse) and buy a Passion if I can find a good one. I was very rushed in purchasing this car so it wasn't the best buy. I'd really like AC and power steering so the Passion is probably a better bet.
  12. Anyone know of a dual-clutch ( twinamic) transmission swap from one of the later models into a 450CDI? I may be able to pick up this transmission for next to nothing....Sure would drive a lot nicer with a six speed dual clutch rather than the automated manual gear box it came with.
  13. When I hand calculated the mileage I got 5.5 L/100 km. The next tank offered 5.0 L/100 km with a lot less stop and go in it but all city. When I filled it from '5L to empty' the most I got in there was 13.75 L, i had just shy of 250 km on that tank. I am ecstatic even with that considering the type of driving I'm doing. My truck returned about 18.1 L/ 100 km in the same driving conditions so in comparison it is dirt cheap. I put the new thermostat in this weekend, changed the oil and air filter. Both were quite overdue. I've also picked up 3000 L worth of diesel conditioner that I'll start adding to next tank. Very nice getting heat in 2 minutes and up to full operating temp within 10 mins. I'm finally seeing 80C+ I'm hoping to see 4-4.5L/100 km. Working on the car is not unreasonably hard but what I do not appreciate is Mercedes fascination with inverse torx screws and Clic clamps. I did not re-use the Clic clamps, and I used 12 point sockets. Once you drop the engine and remove the rear bumper, it is not bad at all to work on. It took me about 5 hours to do the thermostat, oil/filter, air filter but if I was to repeat the process I'd be able to do it in about an hour flat. What took most of the time was just figuring out the car and learning about it. If I had to do several maintenance items however I would contemplate removing the engine entirely prior to performing the work. Basically by the time you've lowered the Engine you're really only a couple more bolts away from completely removing the power train. So for several jobs at once it would be advantageous to just remove it.
  14. Of course not. I do proper retrofits. I was going to try and cram a Mini D2S 4.0 in there. FYI: HID's shouldn't be used in any halogen housing, projector or otherwise.
  15. Do you get any codes from doing this? Is there really any benefit to doing this other than potentially removing soot in your engine?