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Everything posted by kelaog

  1. Anyone know the part numbers for these or equivalent parts? Best just to cut the lines and run a standard check valve from napa? I have oil seeping around the turbo inlet from the pcv.
  2. You mean the big garbage dump in the sky?
  3. Oil level honestly I haven't checked since Idid the oil change, but that's when I spotted the problem. I had just purchased the car, and the servicing was way overdue. I'll check it again when I do my next service. When I filled it it was slightly high but I hadn't primed the oil filter yet or turned the motor so in my experience it would drop half a litre or so, putting it right above half way. If it's normal, I'll just ignore it. I'll just fill it a little below half way next oil change instead and carry on
  4. For the actuator, once an oil change should be good The vacuum pump you can buy from Princess Auto. Spend the $90 on a good one, don't get the cheapy :S Parts I buy from has a few things listed but not too much... Fun little car when you get it working right, and the fuel mileage is outstanding...Not so good in the snow though, IMO anyways. I came from a Ram 1500 with snowflake rated all terrains, so my opinion is bias. Don't let the diesel bit scare you off of doing your own maintenance. In many ways they are a more simple engine. If you've spent some time hanging around turbocharged gas engines you'll feel right at home. The worst part is the lack of room in the engine bay for this car... Odd things about diesels: They don't get warm super quickly...Seriously, the interior fan is enough to keep the car from hitting full operating temp There is no throttle body valve. No spark plugs And you gotta wait a few seconds before turning the key to ON while the glow plugs warm up. Otherwise, pretty simple
  5. Don't forget the first hybrids weren't cheap either, or the first plug in hybrids. I didn't realize it was 75k canadian, damn. I keep hearing the US price around the office.
  6. looks kinda like that, but not nearly as much oil. Not a drip or anything I'd see on my driveway... just a bit in that area.
  7. Oh, it's a diesel. It kinda looks like a valve... Shit do I have excessive blowby? Car runs fine, no issues starting or anything. Doesn't seem to consume any oil.
  8. For now.... Network will grow quickly. The future is coming We work with the major petroleum retailers to retrofit existing stations. They're wise on it, they know it's coming too.
  9. Naw, we bonfire and collision test the tanks. In an accident the only thing that survives is the tank. I work with it daily, its' fairly inert stuff provided you don't supply it with an open flame First car will be next year. Just you'll have only a few stations in Vancouver/Burnaby to fill up at. Mind you, the range is about 600 km so it's worth it. Price is not so much ~$1.00/L gas equivalent.
  10. Wait for the Mirai to go on sale here Better range I know a guy who is building hydrogen stations, once the first one is complete they'll start selling the car. 8 filling stations in the LML and Island by 2024 Should take off rapidly after that.
  11. Title pretty much says it all but there is a performance upgrades section which lightly touches on the actual tuning aspect of a map file. I was thinking there are a few of us here who would be looking to modify maps and share information. It would help greatly to organize those tuning specific questions to one area. Topics might include things like: Map definitions (Map locations, EGR, fueling, timing, etc) Map Sharing - User owned of course, not commercially sold ones. Tips and tricks for achieving a base tune Howto's etc. Software (Winols, EDC Suite, etc.)
  12. For all those who want to can get it to work in windows 10 through a virtual machine. IT IS VERY EASY! I used a free virtual machine called 'Virtual Box' which will work in windows, linux, OSX, etc. Now you need a XP Pro ISO... PM me if you want a download link... If you need them...Follow these instructions or several others on youtube. I used a 5 GB file partion, shouldn't need more than 3 GB for windows XP and a few mb for the drivers... Once you've got it set up you can enable flie transfers and copy/paste the KWP2k+ drivers and software over. Should be pretty easy from there =]
  13. Finally received my KWP 2000 Plus in the mail...Dog at the software/driver CD but I found a copy of it on the interweb. Having issues getting this to work in Win10 (64 bit). From searching around on the internet this thing only works on 32 bit versions of windows (XP Era)... I'm not that tech savy anymore despite at one point in my life running an IT consulting company but how has everyone here gotten around this issue? Would a virtual machine running XP work? Or truly do I need to flash a laptop with XP to tune my car :S
  14. Sounds like a fun project but if you have the space in the truck why not put a real motor in there? A 2L would be a real good mover
  15. It was hard to talk myself out of the ED..That's really what I wanted but the payback period was damn near infinite compared to a $4500 CDI with low KM. CDI works a bit better for long haul trips too The smelly diesel pump kinda sucks... I get around it by using the paper towel they have beside the pump and holding it with that. I think if they kept one vehicle in North America it would be the ED and it would be rebranded as a Mercedes product so that they can apply it to their fleet carbon credits. My $.02. I think the competition in this market is going to heat up though because the big three are in big trouble....They will start selling cheap, small, ED vehicles to offset their pickup sales...
  16. I'd consider an electric one or a diesel one with the Dual clutch but otherwise I'm not interested in a car that small with comparable gas mileage to a bigger car... So I'll stick with my 450 The car just doesn't make sense in the market here...
  17. I downsized from a 2010 Dodge Ram Quad Cab with 35" tires to my Smart CDI this past spring. I drove it slowly and cautiously and usually on the right hand lane. I didn't kid myself, it was a heavy, cumbersome vehicle that required some braking distance and was best enjoyed slowly. People would pass me, mostly courteously, and when I needed to change lanes, people generally let me in. Rarely did anyone cut me off...I drove courteously, and for the most part people around me returned it. Now, I didn't know the definition of slow until I bought my CDI but, I also try and drive this thing in the right hand lane because, I don't kid myself it's not a sports car, and the only vehicle it will beat in a drag race is a Winnebago. But I do feel a great deal of disrespect on the road regardless of my lane position, speed, or attempts at providing people advance notice of lane changes. Everyone tail gates me, people cut me off like it's a sport for no reason, and I seem to barely avoid accidents daily (people almost rear ending me or turning lanes right into me) I haven't felt the need to drive so defensively since I had a CBR929. (Sport Bike). Back then we always hit the road with the mentality that everyone else was trying to kill you... Anyone else having this kind of experience in their smart? Need to equip it with an airhorn, me thinks....
  18. Good to know it's not just me.... I live in the regional area of Vancouver....A city full of entitled drivers with no reasonable amount of skill behind the wheel. A good chunk of the licenses are transfered from overseas where they were purchased as well.... The pickup type are usually more courteous around here to be honest, unless there is a new driver decal or a pair of steel testicals on the back. The remap I'm looking forward to, once I get my KWP2000+ working. I'd like those two tone horns, and it might help for me to put my height and body weight on a bumper sticker. Meep meep... LOL. Mines red and black, no help there... Dashcams I think are going to be a good investment into my financial well being if I continue to drive this much longer... Thanks all for your input....God damn ridiculous the irrational hatred of this car. I mean, I don't think it's the worlds best car by any means but I would never intentionally run someone off the road for owning one. =\ my .02
  19. K sounds good. Thanks! I'll give that a go. I wasn't sure if you needed to have the driver working in Win10 first for it to recognize it. Andrew
  20. PS: thank you for this guide. It is very helpful!
  21. I wouldn't worry so much about it. I've ran it for years and never had an issue with the stuff... At most you'll suffer a 1-3% loss in fuel economy. It is only really an issue in marine applications or when the fuel is stored for long periods of time because it absorbs water and the fuel rots...That being said, I also ran it on my boat so long as I knew I'd burn through it that weekend. Ethanol has a higher octane rating so it's often blended into gasoline to increase the octane number. Higher octane number does not mean more power. Simply stated it is resistance to knock. Your smart requires it because it runs high compression and highly advanced valve timing (some of them are turbo charged). They've done this to squeeze as much power as permitable out of a tiny engine to make it driveable. Modern engines will de-tune themselves when knock--complicated subject to explain--is detected( from useage of lower octane) to protect its self but the result is an enriched fuel mixture, lower power, and worse fuel economy. However, it is reactive so it(knock) is damaging your engine before it starts to back off timing and richen the mixture up. So yes you can run 87 if you really wanted to but it will cost you in mileage and engine durability. Run what the manual tells you to, in any car... IE: If a car says run 87, don't put 91 in it. Likewise, your car tells you to run 91, run it. Of course it's much safer to run 91 in a car that requires 87 than running 87 in a car that requires 91. If you want to know what knock sounds like, it kind of sounds like keys dangling around in your engine compartment or the sound of rain on a tin roof. It's can range from very loud to non audible depending on severity. Common joke among my friends who have spent years building expensive high horsepower engines is Knock knock who's there? A new engine.
  22. I've just ordered a blanking plate and egr emulator off of ebay. Does anyone know the inner diameter of the egr cooler hoses being removed? I'd rather just order some silicon caps and be done with it :). Wish I checked when I changed my thermostat... And don't suppose you could lend a guy your beading tool or fabricate me a pipe for a few $
  23. I'm beginning to think the most accurate fuel economy calculation is going to be with a scan gauge. I tried filling slowly to eliminate the foaming issue and I was able to get almost 11 litres in there before it was visibly full from half empty which is almost as much as I would normally fill from 'empty'. Filling to the click is probably not consistent due to foaming. with this 'full' tank, I did manage over 120 km on the first blob, the second and third fell off quite quickly. That was probably 75% highway. I don't think I'll reach 400 km on this tank even with a good amount of highway driving. I usually let the auto do its thing but I have started intervening and shifting it down. It likes to hang up around 3000 rpm a lot. I'm not sure how to adjust the nut behind the steering wheel, is it hard to get to?
  24. Last tank I got 4.7 L/100 km with maybe a 75/25% city/highway mix. City mileage of course for me is a lot of stop and go. I am happy with these results and I'm hoping they'll improve with the use of fuel conditioner. I did notice a bit smoother running around 2k after a good dosage of conditioner. I'm using the Kleen Flow diesel conditioner. I calculated for my tank I need about 8 ml and I've been adding 16 ml. My first blob seems to only ever last about 50 km. I have a feeling that I am filling the car wrong. While I'm happy with the mileage I don't think I could get 400 km on a tank like some of you report. I think I'd be empty around 300. I can only ever get about 13 L in there. If it's a 22L tank that means I've got 5 L of reserve and another 5 L of foam? Wondering what else could cause bad fuel economy on this car other than low tire pressure. Transmission fluid?
  25. My bet is during the service they unplugged something accidentally and didn't plug it back in triggering a flood of fault codes. How a mechanic can collect a pay cheque after returning a car with 12 fault codes more than it came in with and send you on your way is beyond me. Don't let them tell you it's not a big deal until the codes are gone and they do not return on your drive home. God damn Mercedes dealers =\