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About Will

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  1. You should not require the "headlights" to be on, for the standard foglight wiring to work. You do need to have the light stalk "on", in the "park light" position however. This has always worked fine on my 5005 CDI Don't go making an unnecessary mess of a simple thing. Think of it, if you need fog lights on, then you need rear lights on as well, for safety. Have you not removed the "automatic headlights ON" feature of our "canadian compliance" before you started this?
  2. You should verify that the wire from the oil pressure sensor is not resting against the drive shaft near the differential. It can com loose from it's binding and sag onto the CV next to the differential. Also, retrieve your discarded oil filter and cut it open. You must look for metal flakes. This will indicate most likely a failing/disintegrating oil pump drive gear. There are a lot of conversations in this forum about that issue.
  3. When the key is in position 1, the transmission will only upshift as far as gear 2. That is the way it is designed. When the key is in position 2, and the engine is running, but the car is not being driven, the transmission will not upshift past gear 1. When the engine is running the transmission will only shift into gears that the ECU knows will work, based on the combination of the engine RPM capabilities, and the cars speed. That is to say, when driving at 30 kph, you can not toggle the transmission up to gear 6, as that would place the engine in a 'stall' state. So the ECU simply will not do that.
  4. Check your SAM. Connector N11-3 is notorious for having bad/loose contacts. The brake light system is the N11-3.11 connector. Try removal and reconnect of the N11-3 plug a couple times, and see if the symptoms go away.
  5. That is a great question, for analysis. I found this site http://pinoutguide.com/CarElectronics/car_obd2_pinout.shtml to be of some help. I went back to the OBD to check pin #16, expecting it to be 12.6v at rest. It was only 11.7v . At idle it was only 12.8v The cigarette lighter was registering the same. It seems the entire system was low except for the battery. So I went back to the battery, and found the issue. The clamp/cable from the alternator/starter was very secure. However the feeder cables that subsequently bolt to the clamp were a little loose. Tightened them up, and now everything is back to normal.
  6. I verified voltages with a multimeter. I saved $500+ for a new alternator, but now I have a different problem. At rest the 'battery' reads 12.6v , but the scangauge reads 12.0v . At an idle, the 'battery reads 14.1v , but the scangauge reads only 12.6v thru 13.1v . It seems that the readings from the scangauge are going downhill, but the battery charge is actually doing fine. Could this be due to a bad ground somewhere? Does anybody know where to find a wire schema leading to or from the OBD port ? Thanks for your suggestions , Will
  7. I have a 2005 CDI , that now has +200K km on it now. It is always dry stored, and the alternator has never been a problem. I do have a ScanGauge. About 500 km ago, the voltage started to noticeably drop, usually 13.8 or 13.9 . About 100 km ago The voltage was running 13.5 thru 13.7 . Today It is running 13.1 thru 13.4 , and at one point it momentarily registered 12.8 . None of the light are flickering , and the belt is not squealing. Is this likely a symptom of a failing voltage regulator ? Thanks for your suggestions , Will