ACSTECH

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About ACSTECH

  • Birthday 05/26/1985

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  • Location
    Muskoka On

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  1. I replaced the crank sensor and it didn’t do anything.it was a fluke. The issue was the fuel regulator on the right side of the fuel rail.
  2. This is far too gone I believe. I think it will be a custom job with a resonator.
  3. live update…. removed TIK and found it was folded in on the far side upon instal last time. It was on the turbo end. I’m thinking it may have been drawing too much air in causing this issue. Putting the bumper cover back on and we will see with a test run tomorrow.
  4. this exhaust is beyond repair. I was going to JB weld it if the seams are gone but it is cracked up the front and across the bottom. This is a replace job. Not a repair.
  5. Ok. Dyslexia kicked in. Engine code again and it was P0238. Investigating now to see if I have a wastegate line with a hole in it. I know the gate itself is lubed up good. I’m thinking cracked rubber line or hole in intercooler. MTF
  6. I had same issue. It was the fuel regulator on the drivers side of the rail.
  7. Innova OBD II reader 2005 Passion Cabriolet 0.8 CDI
  8. I have already removed the rear bumper cover and lubed the waste gate. I will see if my scan gauge can read boost pressure. I also doubt it is the EGR. I just serviced that back in the fall. It gets regular use so it shouldn't be either of those. This weekend I will remove the EGR and bring it to work to soak it in a bucket of MEK. Willys, I will take a picture tonight and upload it. I have also never had the issue of the intercooler rad rubbing, sometimes it is a little hard to start, I had an issue a while ago where I had to replace the fuel regulator on the drivers side of the rail. I think this is due to the cold weather. I don't remember having an issue when I do put it in the garage. Nigel, I will have him try to listen for the SAM unit when it happens next. I took it for a drive a while ago and never had an issue. I drive close to 10 kms, doing from 40 to 135 km/h and couldn't replicate. I am looking to sell in April when my son is done college and he can afford his own car. He cant afford to keep driving my 5.4L Expedition the 170km round trip to school 3 days a week. Thanks for the help.
  9. The Dorkmobile is at it again. When the boy drives it he says it gives a little bump then loses power and had a hard time maintaining 85 Km/h. Rarely gives a CEL. When it finally did, it came up with P2038. (Reductant injection air pressure sensor- range/performance problem) Everything I can look up referred to a DEF injector, which we all know it does not have. I had parts on hand so I replaced the Fuel Pressure sensor and the MAP sensor. Still same issue. The only thing I can think of, is it may need a new muffler. There is an exhaust leak at the bottom seam and a significant amount is escaping out not far from the exhaust nozzle. I went to a custom exhaust shop and he said he can fab a system with just a resonator for less than half the price of an OEM muffler but he had an 03 and never had that issue when his exhaust was leaking. I am at a loss. No idea where to go from here. Ideas?
  10. My 2005 450 has had the airbag light on for a while. Of course after my 5 foot nothing wife drove the car and moved the seat. We all know the problem. Anyone close to the Muskoka Ontario area have a Star enabled computer and wanna make some beer money? Getting ready to sell and want to have it good to go.
  11. Ok, it has been fixed. I finally made time to investigate more. I suspected it was on one of the two ends of the fuel rail as I could hear the pump priming with no problem. so I cleaned numbers off of the fuel pressure sensor and sourced a new Bosch one from Florida. Normally on vacation that is a good hard two day drive from Muskoka to Miami. It took 33 days to receive it and 11 minutes to install with a beer as that is how I do most of my maintenance. No difference. So off to go back to eBay to look for a fuel pressure regulator. I found one in Kentucky. That’s a day of travel no problem. I ordered it and was notified my shipment was delivered to the depot in Beijing. Well that’s not Kentucky. Oh well. With everything going on in the world I’m looking at probabaly 2 months to get this. 8 DAYS later I have it. 30 minutes later I start it up and the Dorkmobile fires up like it has just come back from a 100km drive. No hesitation at all. It lives again. Thank you all for your input and ideas.
  12. I found out I have to keep it until atleast Oct. son gets his G license then (full privileges) otherwise if I got rid of it his insurance would jump from $2400 a year to $5057 a year. So it is cheaper to have and insure 4 cars for 3 drivers.🙄
  13. Well, this is a new revelation. I went out to move the car out of the garage this morning so I can fix a snowblower and the car really struggled to start and stay running. Got angry and drove down to the end of the driveway and universe is hard as I could and it seem to even everything out. Turn it off and turn it back on, started like there’s never been a problem. So I would say the final diagnosis of this was a bad crank position sensor. Total work time was maybe four hours but that’s a lot of digging around and not really being too serious about doing it. I did not lower the engineer all I did all the work from the top except when I was popping out the old one I Use the long prybar underneath to pop out the old one. Greased the new one pushed it in place which was quite hard surprisingly. Use the screw to seat the last half centimetre and done. All I did for Access was removed the upper EGR hose and cut some zip ties and move the Intercooler fan over. thanks for everyone’s help and suggestions.
  14. Well finally got around to something. Came across a good price on a crank pos. Sensor. 3 evenings and 4 beer total. Old out, new in, no change. Plus side is I have a new crank sensor. down side I finished with a freshly opened beer. Now I have to stand here and finish it before going up to bed and telling the wife it’s still not fixed. (Maybe not a bad thing) It still cranks for about 5 seconds before firing up.
  15. Low pressure is running, high-pressure is good just rebuilt it about a year and a half ago I think. No signs of leaks anywhere. Glow plugs were also just replaced A year ago I’ll go get a battery load tester from a friend and check to ensure the new battery I bought is good and not just a one off garbage one. however with the small cars I think you are right I probably should just boost it from the truck without the truck running. I needed to new rear tires so while I was at Mercedes I bought the new washers for the injectors. Once I get this fixed I think the car will be going for sale if you know anyone interested. No time to keep on the maintenance and too cheap to be taking it to a shop.