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About Willys

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    Anything Smart Car

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    Pefferlaw, Ontario Canada

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  1. The battery doesn't need to be registered with the car, not that complicated. No but the car needs 12 volts and has a hard time starting with less. Also when it says to wait for glow plugs, wait.....I even do 2 or 3 cycles in the cold days of winter to make sure the cylinder is good and warm before trying to start it. I would also buy some of that mechanic in a jug called diesel kleen from Canadian Tire or similar to help clean the fuel system....etc. 50 ml per tank is what I run and it seems to help things along. Mostly in the cold months or leading up to them. Also if the engine has sat for a while such as yours, can't hurt. I'm not a believer in any mechanic in a can crap but this seems to help keep things clean and as I have learned injectors need to be clean to work correctly. To each their own....of course.
  2. Glad you may have found one, ....In Ontario these items are made from gold by what the wreckers demand for them....here's hoping you get the replacement required. Izzy is a very fair guy to deal with .....good luck.
  3. Get in contact with IZZY, Stickman007, He may have exactly what you are looking for and a great guy to deal with. He's just west of Edmonton.
  4. cdnred.....stop going through car washes....lol. Yep, someone has to be the dick....lol I haven't experienced this yet, but we don't have the same year, again....lol Hope you find a solution, $65 is an expensive fill-up in a smart car...!
  5. I shaved roughly a pound off my clutch flywheel combination and that has made a noticeable difference with the feel of the acceleration even though I am running 2 1/2" larger tires. Which has changed the "happy" place in the RPM band up by 400 rpms.Now starting at 2400 not the 1950 it was at as a stock clutch weight and stock tires. So add a better tune and maybe it would have normal-ish forward movement characteristics...lol. Tuning is so far out of my wheelhouse it'll never happen but the idea may be fun...lol. What has your tuning done to fuel economy? Just curious, as I have lost some doing what I have done. Mostly the 2" lift and taller tires I'm sure.
  6. Welcome to the site, club or nut house...lol Where abouts in the NWTs...? I have been up the Dempster 4 times and love it in the far north. Not sure a Smart Car would be my first choice for a vehicle up there unless you are very hands on fixing your vehicles. How many kms...does it have, is the alternator siezed as that is a typical issue. Check all grounding pins, they are everywhere and take each one apart and check between the eyelets for corrosion as they will look perfectly fine at a glance. Look for the silver cigarette sized alluminium box near the battery and open it up. It loves corrosion also. Same goes for the SAM unit(fuse box and computer under the dash, left of the steering wheel. Check all plugs or connections and then open it up and check the circuit board. Research this as there are many threads detailing the issues and fixes for this. Check the low pressure fuel pump to make sure you can hear it after turning on the key. Make sure the fuel filter is perfect etc Then test for fuel at the high pressure fuel pump on left side of engine. Test glow plugs again research this procedure. The battery must have a full charge to get it to turn over fast enough and also fire off. How bad is the fuel in the tank? Check the main ground strap running from engine to body as it usually dis-intergrates into dust. There is also a grounding point at the 11 O-clock position under the lip of the bodywork as you look into the engine bay. Corrosion. There are many many other things to check as you get past these few.....I'm sure others will offer up other things to check. Again welcome to the club. You live extremely close to one of the best Smart Car Guru's I know, Stickman007. I'm sure he may pipe up when he sees your post. He will have most anything you need to get your car up and running I'm sure. Damn lucky guy for sure...!!!
  7. I ran my car with no clamps at all on the injectors in a hail marry type thing hoping they would shoot out or at least leak, nothing!!!! No I didn't go any where nor stood over it to peek....lol. My slide hammer was the only way and I did break the first attempt of making the claw that attached to the injector. Doesn't matter in the end as long as you got them out and kept your second arm and leg.....so to speak. Now, sonic clean the daylights out of them, keeping the electronics out of the solution unless you remove it from the injector. I would buy new nozzles so would clean the body of the injectors without nozzles so the solution get deeper into the injectors.
  8. Important lesson re-learned today......! When diagnosing a problem always step back and triple check the cause or symptom. Don't just jump at the obvious easy solution without searching a bit further. Lesson I had to re-learn today. I have had a slight fuel leak for the past week. I had other more pressing things to take care of and a few days ago I went after the leak. The pump was wet and slowly dripping fuel and had a very slight river of fuel running down the block and dripping slowly onto the ground. So, I instantly assumed it was the pump at fault seeing it was the most obvious culprit seeing as it was wet. So I assumed it was the leak. I took the pump off and it looked like the fuel was seeping past the seals in one of the heads. So, no problem I get my spare seal kit out and start the rebuild project...easy fix. I re-install the newly rebuilt pump and saw no instant leak. I thought good job done.! WRONG...it started dripping all over again..Hmmm...? So off comes the pump and I open it up thinking I had pinched a seal or something simple. Back on the engine again, great dry for a few minutes and again leaking. I have a few pumps on the parts pile, so fetch one and start opening it up to check what the inside looks like....not good, decide to order a fresh seal kit and start with the new pump. I clean it completely and wait, yesterday the seals come, they are garbage, too thin compared to originals, so it's going back! I think well I have a perfectly good beater which runs well and doesn't leak, I'll take the pump off it and install it on the new car. Easy right, just time. Well, seems the leak is contagious as it still weeps! So after watching the engine from underneath I finally see a drop of fuel hanging under the return fitting on the fuel rail!!!! I wipe it and yep it's back...this is where the leak is coming from and with a simple loosening and re-tightening of the fitting it stops leaking!!! FFS...!!!! A total of 8 hours of messing around with pumps and that wasn't even the problem source! So I reinstall the old pump back onto the beater, drive it to it's new home,the parking lot. Install all the incidentals back to where they should be in the new car and walk away.....AUGH....!!!!! Engine is bone dry once again and my driveway is drip free. Just wanted to say, always check for more than the first thing that comes to mind when searching for a problem with your cars. I had an old friend who always used to say..."It's always the simple things" KISS was his moto. My problem is I tend to jump at the first obvious cause and forget the simple things. I now have 3 pumps in pieces sitting on my bench, all good all need new seals now....Hmmmm....?????
  9. I agree we need to get this site up and running etc etc, but imho I think we need to have at least 2 active members at the top controlling the reins...and no I'm not looking for the job...lol. It also would be a shame to loose any part of what we have now. It's also fantastic that people who were working to ensure in the past this site ran well are still around somewhere. Thanks again to those who are in the know and have come forward. The site needs you.
  10. Well ladies and gents.....seems I have this plague to deal with now also.....so far all it is doing is stopping the display of which gear you are in when driving or when the car is running. There is no reduction of power, speed or drivability. I can select cruise control and it works, manually change gears up and down as I choose, drive anywhere at normal speeds. I drive in manual mode all the time so don't know if this has effected the automatic gear selection or not...? Hmmm...? I have put my Star on the car and it shows transmission speed sensor issue.....? And no I haven't dug into it yet as I have other things to deal with before tearing into it full bore. I'm just testing the waters to see if someone else has had this and how or what they found to solve it. I have a slight leak on a freshly sealed pump so waiting for a fresh seal kit before stopping the vehicle in service. I'll add to this by saying that I have a 2 inch lift on the car and taller tires which have resulted in the speedometer being spot on with my GPS....the tires are 1 1/2" taller than stock. My reluctor rings are brand new as is the entire car's moving parts. The other thing I have done which is out of the ordinary is shave off a pound of weight from the clutch housing. This has resulted in making it much quicker as in acceleration BUT made my fuel economy a bit worse. It used to get 3.5 L/h/d or 80 mpgs now it gets 4 l/h/d or 65 mpgs, roughly? It also tops out at 135 kmph. It also lost low RPM power where before it loved 1950 rpm range now it gives the same fuel economy at 2450 rpms, but over all has lost economy. But rides far better as in comfortability speaking. No kidney jarring from potholes or such. So, if anyone has solved the flashing 3 bars on the dash please explain how you did it.....Just to keep a record for future member's issues on the site. Thanks...
  11. Maybe check gear select motor and it's wiring. Our CDI 2005_2006 versions had an issue where the wiring chaffed where it went over the inter cooler scoop. Not sure if the other models had the same issue but worth checking.
  12. Yes I do but then again I'm talking about my older worn out beater. It also doesn't have the catt converter in it any more which does make it far more stinkier. But yes most smell if you are new to the dirty fuel vehicles as the gov't wants us to believe!!!! Don't get me started...lol. BUT, you have started this thread in the wrong place or forum......if you have a diesel car it's the 2005-2006 forum.....sorry to say.....But we'll let it go this time.....yep...I'm bored....lol. Sorry. IF you drive it in the manual mode and watch your RPMs to keep them around the 1950 rates you'll find you will get far more mileage numbers as long as you are on flatish land. I get regularly 80 mpgs but I also drive like an old man now a days simply to laugh at the great mileage numbers while the pick me up besides me gets god knows what and has to stop at every other gas station. Is it just me or what...??? You can also use diesel kleen from Canadian tire to help clean your fuel system, if that helps...with th smell? It will help clean your injectors etc which is a good thing. Don't buy the large can of it, I'm still working on the top half and I bought it years ago!. 50ml every other fuel up during the winter months and far fewer during the summer.
  13. Just take the plug out and rest the electrode against a well known ground and crank engine and you should see it firing if there is a spark....or you could touch the end while cranking to be 1000% sure....just kidding....lol. I have one of these types of testers and have never used it.....the simple way is usually the best and easiest. Plugs are cheap and you can spend a bit more on the best quality and that is a personal choice, something I believe in. You in this case get what you pay for, this along with wires. etc.
  14. I was going to suggest the same, take everything from here as insurance that we don't accidentally loose it and save it for either another site or just for reference purposes....etc....probably highly sketchy....? The new and improved ClubSmartCar2.com