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About Willys

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    Anything Smart Car

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  1. Block off half or more of your rad and buy the new higher temp item off somewhere noted here.....can't remember where I bought mine from Amazon I believe if my broken memory serves me well...? Not cheap under $100 but my summer car has it and easily keeps 3 blobs once obtaining them.....OK getting them sometimes takes a while longer in these temps....just saying.....going through all this work is even over kill for me...lol.sorry....to the maker, but....so many hours hunting for that heat ....but if he gets it we';ll all want one...lol....he'll make a killing.
  2. Still comes down to range and plug ins....and of course cost. Battery lifespan as well. I had a ride in a Tesler .....very nice and great range...but the cost...WOW....! Also almost zero available parts if required. Accidents etc, you need parts or they scrap it...that isn't an option for a small damage issue. So I'm still sliding off the fence, but that drive in the Tesler....was nice. 580 kms range is workable for me.
  3. I know what you mean about snapping them. I used a small 1/4" breaker bar to work mine back and forth for what seemed like hours before i got them out. Plenty of penetrating juice and a hot engine! I even left one in as I was scared to snap it. IF I remember right the glow plugs came with a drill bit size in their instructions to use as a reamer. I think I had mine shipped from over seas ....dirt cheap and NGK's. Off Amazon or FleaBay...? It was far cheaper than my local auto parts guy. Good luck.
  4. Have you traced it from front to rear, nasty job but...? Also, are all bulbs etc in speedo cluster correct and working correctly? What about short somewhere between heater bolster and such..? I hate tracing wiring issues....just a nasty job. What about a ground issue? Have you recleaned all ground contact locations? They are all over the place I am finding.....and all look clean but I file each one whenever i find a new one. Then coat in dielectric grease just to help maybe. Again just spit balling....as I think of stuff to check..? I expect you have already thought or done all of these before asking for help.
  5. I personally think if you can find a wrecked car with clean looking injectors you will be able to clean them well enough to get usable injectors to get car running correctly. IMHO. I can't see spending what they are demanding on reman injectors without medical assistance...lol What you must pay could buy another parts car. Keep checking wreckers for good clean looking injectors and keep your fingers crossed.
  6. I personally think they have a stake in the game of rebuilding their own injectors and want to keep everyone else out of it, cornering the market, our market, MB's market? Other manufacturers allow their injectors to be rebuilt or parts to be supplied by other people...why not ours?
  7. The few things I haven't gotten into yet are those two boxes on the right frame rail that you are speaking of. I think. So far mine hasn't shown any signs of those issues.
  8. Inner cooler rad..? Pin hole in any it's hoses? You did open up all computers and check every solder joint for cracks? Continuity on all and any wires? Fuel filter? Maybe a crushed line or collapsed line? Again just spit balling???
  9. Just a quick update while making a coffee and getting some fresh air...she's ALIVE....!!!!! Next is to attach STAR and test everything before zipping up everything. Then I'm going to fix a cracked air scoop on the rear hatch.....it got eaten by my garage opener last time I took her off lift system...sniff sniff....fingers crossed.......no codes or leaks as of yet......damn....jinxed it!
  10. Just as a future thought, I purchased the rebuild kits for the high pressure pump.....just in case my pump decided to quit on me...it was cheap. A small bag of O rings etc.....maybe time to think of that? I do hear it's a nasty job though? Getting the pump off the engine that is. Have you done any type of compression test? Sorry didn't reread thread to get answer..lol. I made a leak down type tester out of an old injector. It'll tell you if the valves are leaking or rings? Not enough compression ? Spit balling again..?
  11. I found the guts to have a film on them which came off during sonic cleaning, they also fit together better afterwards also....not saying you're wrong, just I prefer to clean everything possible IF you have the chance.....I also noticed that some of the smaller parts took some banging on a wooden block to get them out, and fell out after cleaning. IF I didn't have the sonic cleaner I would have probably not gone so deep either. I also found refuse flushing the tip or nozzle to be greatly noticable for positive results./ I simply used a carb cleaner to flush mine in that direction....if memory serves me right.
  12. Hey glad to hear you have signs of life! I'm a firm believe in things can be dealt with yourself simply because of the folks who own vehicles in third world countries. They do not have the funds, tools or even the dealership network to take their vehicles to, to get them repaired and they seem to last a long time. I'm not saying it's the best way to fix things, but if they can deal with the very same issues, why can't we.? Now I'm not saying they are all doing things correctly or even the best way sometimes...such as forcing things into the holes of the nozzles trying to clean them out. I wouldn't recommend trying it this way either....but when you are being quoted $750 per injector, I think someone is getting wealthy off someone...OR....the owner just can't be bothered to solve the issue themselves. They obviously have enough cash to simply pay, no matter what...? When I can buy a used part for a few dollars to do trial and error testing/cleaning etc....without fear of ruining the one you wish to use...I have no problem having a go fixing anything. Worst synario you destroy the part, best, you learn how it works and figure out how best to clean or repair it. I destroyed one injector learning how they worked....or how much voltage they don't want...lol. A $15 mistake compared to a $750 mistake....I can throw away $15 daily compared to one shot of a new injector...damn! Glad to be of some help.....my cleaned injectors seem to be working just fine also....time will tell. I could be wrong....we'll see... I nearly forgot to say, I bet you have dirt or crud in your tank as some injector youtube clips suggested cleaning the tank and replacing filter and flushing lines etc etc....OR....you could run the pump and filter through a fine cloth to see if you are pushing particles..?
  13. Hmmm....sounds to me like he needs both his clutch and tranny taught back in.....after finding out why it went out in the first place. Perhaps check for a punched through clutch fork arm hole? Or siezed actuator ...that can be taught in by hand almost just to get it running but should be done right using a STAR, no? I would look at all connections to the ECU, SAM etc for green stuff, then carefully opening up all of these computers checking for cold solder joints and water damage. AS HURONLAD said MAKE SURE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED...! Also, when cleaning pins etc, watch out for capacitor discharges across pins. I cooked my ECU by brushing the pins with sensor cleaner and a tooth brush...beware....these computers can be very expensive! They also say they need to be replaced as a set, but i think you could replace them one by one...but unsure of that. When i installed my 3 and retaught them in I did each one seperately which makes me think they could be replaced one by one also...? But do not quote me on that!....Just beware of stored up energy within these computers....any capacitor has a small charge stored in it I think waiting to be released? The tranny is a very simple one, very much like a motorcycle's. I'll bet the clutch actuator went out and messed the whole system up....?