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Everything posted by Willys

  1. I know what you mean about snapping them. I used a small 1/4" breaker bar to work mine back and forth for what seemed like hours before i got them out. Plenty of penetrating juice and a hot engine! I even left one in as I was scared to snap it. IF I remember right the glow plugs came with a drill bit size in their instructions to use as a reamer. I think I had mine shipped from over seas ....dirt cheap and NGK's. Off Amazon or FleaBay...? It was far cheaper than my local auto parts guy. Good luck.
  2. Have you traced it from front to rear, nasty job but...? Also, are all bulbs etc in speedo cluster correct and working correctly? What about short somewhere between heater bolster and such..? I hate tracing wiring issues....just a nasty job. What about a ground issue? Have you recleaned all ground contact locations? They are all over the place I am finding.....and all look clean but I file each one whenever i find a new one. Then coat in dielectric grease just to help maybe. Again just spit balling....as I think of stuff to check..? I expect you have already thought or done all of these before asking for help.
  3. I personally think if you can find a wrecked car with clean looking injectors you will be able to clean them well enough to get usable injectors to get car running correctly. IMHO. I can't see spending what they are demanding on reman injectors without medical assistance...lol What you must pay could buy another parts car. Keep checking wreckers for good clean looking injectors and keep your fingers crossed.
  4. OK, I am going to dismantle my injectors to make 100% sure they are clean and acting as they should. Has anyone else done this and what did you find or learn? I am an expert now, I have watched a few youtube clips so I know...lol. I was wondering if anyone had bought new needles for their injectors to get new holes or spray capabilities back. As it was when new. The rest seems simply a matter of cleaning and cleaning well. I have an altra sonic that they fit in without sbmerging the electronics and they have been done at least for 30 minutes and look almost like new. BUT, I wonder what they are like internally. They weren't bad externally to ne honest, but if they are capable of being cleaned, why not? I have two junk yard injectors which look usable But the holes seem to be slightly distorted. compared to my almost new ones I took out of the engine. The reason I am taking them out was because the engine isn't running evenly and has a slight shake or vibration when fuel is applied. So add two and two and in my head that means injectors aren't delivering fuel as they should. The fuel pressures are all near perfect the Star is telling me, so that leaves mechanical issues. So, has anyone bought new needles and where did you find them as the dealer simply said why bother and wanted to sell me a whole injector. Sorry don't want to loose another nut to buy one..so will do it myself. Clean and rebuild that is. I did manage to buy all their crush washers, 6 to be presice...lol. Enough for now. Thanks for the help and information.
  5. I personally think they have a stake in the game of rebuilding their own injectors and want to keep everyone else out of it, cornering the market, our market, MB's market? Other manufacturers allow their injectors to be rebuilt or parts to be supplied by other people...why not ours?
  6. The few things I haven't gotten into yet are those two boxes on the right frame rail that you are speaking of. I think. So far mine hasn't shown any signs of those issues.
  7. Inner cooler rad..? Pin hole in any it's hoses? You did open up all computers and check every solder joint for cracks? Continuity on all and any wires? Fuel filter? Maybe a crushed line or collapsed line? Again just spit balling???
  8. Just a quick update while making a coffee and getting some fresh air...she's ALIVE....!!!!! Next is to attach STAR and test everything before zipping up everything. Then I'm going to fix a cracked air scoop on the rear hatch.....it got eaten by my garage opener last time I took her off lift system...sniff sniff....fingers crossed.......no codes or leaks as of yet......damn....jinxed it!
  9. OK, I've been messing with this car for months, yep probably caused this issue, but can't seem to find it even with the STAR system. Nearly gassed myself checking fuel pressures, cylinder stats, fuel rails presures, Injectors, etc etc etc....everything except #2 cylinder fuel pressure was basically even and perfect. That is from what i can figure out. The things I have done to the car while it's been in the garage. Did the headlight relay mod, removed the EGR mod, then reversed it without ny change in results, I did reteach the clutch actuator, replaced the reluctor rings in the rear, changed two of the glow plugs(it starts perfectly), Everything acts prfectly, and checks right and it's not showing any codes. BUT, it feels like it's missing on one cylinder....at low RPMs and you try to bring the up it shakes the roof panels! From the vibration in the engine. It seems to drive fine, once it gets going, but still has this uneven combustion or a miss if it were a gasolene engine. The fuel pump pumps out enough fuel, low pressure and high pressures. You can hear the pump kick in and shut off as normal. It changes through gears as it should, but I haven't taken it on a street yet. It has sat idle for what 2-3 months and it ran perfectly when I parked it. I would almost say it has a siezed altenator and it's the belt jumping around the pulley, but I can see it moving and also it's charging correctly also. I did install a 2" lift kit into it and made doubley sure i didn't pinch or damage any wiring...nope.! No hoses left undone from the EGR mod, I also took out the intercooler and repaired it, repaired the rotted seam on the muffler and de-cat'ed it also,.....I've checked the SAM for burned connections when I did the headlight relay mod, they were almost perfect, I have also opened up and inspected the silver box next to the battery, it also was like new. It has no engine light showing, no warning lights staying on, no beeping...? When I use the STAR system you can hear it communicating with the computers as it needs to, doesn't throw any error messages..? Now I haven't got to measuring voltages etc for anything yet besides charging....was too dizzy by the time I had worked my way through every page I could find in the STAR. For those who do not know, you can run the car while using the STAR system as it want transmission shaft speeds and RPMs etc etc.....just to let you know. I didn't realize this until today. No I haven't run the car on the street yet using the STAR, but will unless someone tells me not to. Any suggestions would be great..... IF it wasn't doing this it would be on the road already tonight...augh! It's finished....now this....
  10. Just as a future thought, I purchased the rebuild kits for the high pressure pump.....just in case my pump decided to quit on me...it was cheap. A small bag of O rings etc.....maybe time to think of that? I do hear it's a nasty job though? Getting the pump off the engine that is. Have you done any type of compression test? Sorry didn't reread thread to get answer..lol. I made a leak down type tester out of an old injector. It'll tell you if the valves are leaking or rings? Not enough compression ? Spit balling again..?
  11. I found the guts to have a film on them which came off during sonic cleaning, they also fit together better afterwards also....not saying you're wrong, just I prefer to clean everything possible IF you have the chance.....I also noticed that some of the smaller parts took some banging on a wooden block to get them out, and fell out after cleaning. IF I didn't have the sonic cleaner I would have probably not gone so deep either. I also found refuse flushing the tip or nozzle to be greatly noticable for positive results./ I simply used a carb cleaner to flush mine in that direction....if memory serves me right.
  12. Hey glad to hear you have signs of life! I'm a firm believe in things can be dealt with yourself simply because of the folks who own vehicles in third world countries. They do not have the funds, tools or even the dealership network to take their vehicles to, to get them repaired and they seem to last a long time. I'm not saying it's the best way to fix things, but if they can deal with the very same issues, why can't we.? Now I'm not saying they are all doing things correctly or even the best way sometimes...such as forcing things into the holes of the nozzles trying to clean them out. I wouldn't recommend trying it this way either....but when you are being quoted $750 per injector, I think someone is getting wealthy off someone...OR....the owner just can't be bothered to solve the issue themselves. They obviously have enough cash to simply pay, no matter what...? When I can buy a used part for a few dollars to do trial and error testing/cleaning etc....without fear of ruining the one you wish to use...I have no problem having a go fixing anything. Worst synario you destroy the part, best, you learn how it works and figure out how best to clean or repair it. I destroyed one injector learning how they worked....or how much voltage they don't want...lol. A $15 mistake compared to a $750 mistake....I can throw away $15 daily compared to one shot of a new injector...damn! Glad to be of some help.....my cleaned injectors seem to be working just fine also....time will tell. I could be wrong....we'll see... I nearly forgot to say, I bet you have dirt or crud in your tank as some injector youtube clips suggested cleaning the tank and replacing filter and flushing lines etc etc....OR....you could run the pump and filter through a fine cloth to see if you are pushing particles..?
  13. Hmmm....sounds to me like he needs both his clutch and tranny taught back in.....after finding out why it went out in the first place. Perhaps check for a punched through clutch fork arm hole? Or siezed actuator ...that can be taught in by hand almost just to get it running but should be done right using a STAR, no? I would look at all connections to the ECU, SAM etc for green stuff, then carefully opening up all of these computers checking for cold solder joints and water damage. AS HURONLAD said MAKE SURE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED...! Also, when cleaning pins etc, watch out for capacitor discharges across pins. I cooked my ECU by brushing the pins with sensor cleaner and a tooth brush...beware....these computers can be very expensive! They also say they need to be replaced as a set, but i think you could replace them one by one...but unsure of that. When i installed my 3 and retaught them in I did each one seperately which makes me think they could be replaced one by one also...? But do not quote me on that!....Just beware of stored up energy within these computers....any capacitor has a small charge stored in it I think waiting to be released? The tranny is a very simple one, very much like a motorcycle's. I'll bet the clutch actuator went out and messed the whole system up....?
  14. Welcome to the site....plenty of helpful folks here to help in any way you may need. Check out those who have welded a nut or washer onto their actuator arm to stop it from pushing through the newly made hole in the clutch arm. Yes a bush type fix, but it works. OR you can drop tranny and replace arm with a fresh one. I know which route I'd be taking....just saying. I have welder...lol. Plus it's just removing the actuator nothing else if I grasp the bush fix correctly.
  15. You should be able to hang them in a sonic cleaner to get into the internals without damaging the electronics of them. Mine turned out perfectly this way. Or if you do not have a sonic cleaner a simple soaking in solution may also do wonders. You have already proven that simple oven cleaner helped your spare set. My sonic cleaner was $200ish US from harbor freight the last time I went down for a visit below the border. It's a good sized one, capable of almost submerging a 4 barrel carb. There are many injector cleaning youtube videos where some old fart in his garden shed has done a complete cleaning without any special tooling and his vehicle runs just fine. I look at it in the way of the semi third world folks deal with these problems....they don't have the best of the best tools etc but they solve the same problems in their own ways. And it works.
  16. Engine compartment all back together now, just need to refill the coolant and change out fuel filter, then rear pan and rear fender piece. Time for a coffee as I'm just about frazzled now. I'd love to meet the fool who designed this working space......typical engineer...augh! Knows he'll never have to work on the machine he's designing....probably still laughing when he thinks of how he designed it! My hands and arms look like I have some foriegn desease....all blotchy and torn up....lol. I'm also thinking of installing a 5 way harness for all the added power and speed it'll have now i have reduced the weight and saved HP from removing the air-con pump and a few lines. Damn....it'll be like night and day...! I can't wait! Now where is that Christmas cake.....Mmmmmm......
  17. I bet they simply needed to plug it into a STAR type machine and see if it through any coses etc, if not, see ya....lol They are still criminals.....but you can't do the job yourself.....I long for the old days of a simple single wore required to run an engine....lol
  18. I'll be venturing back under beater today reinstalling the bits I removed two days ago....minus the air-con pump. With any luck that is.....back isn't telling me it a good idea at the moment. Fingers crossed. I took altenator to my guy who rebuilds them and was warned not to allow just anyone to mess with these little monsters as one incorrect charge and you'll be buying a new unit. He doesn't have the correct machine to be able to test it so refused to touch it. He said if it was working beofre simply clean it up and reinstal.....they either work or they do not. So begrudgingly that's today's job.
  19. All computer must be initialized by a STAR machine to allow car to see them or visa versa. I was told by someone that you also must change all 3 at the same time for it to work also but after doing mine I think it could be done seperately. As said before be very careful when cleaning the ECU....beware of capacitor discharge across pins when cleaning even when using plastic brush and sensor cleaner. It was a simple lightening flash like in a cloud when mine popped. I have water markings inside my ECU but don't recall any real damage but I had a few green pins. I wouldn't use anything like a brush to clean them, maybe vinagar or something that may eat the green? Not sure what would be best as a fluid that wouldn't carry a charge? BUT sensor cleaner isn't what I would use again! It didn't eat the green on it's own as I thought it would hense the tooth brush.
  20. Yes, I soaked mine in a sonic cleaner for enough time to get them like new, so a soaking in carb cleaner won't hurt them imho....they are after all solid steel. Just refrain from any wire brushing or probing with fine wires. I did scrub mine with a plastic brush while in the solution I use in my sonic cleaner. Simply purple industrial cleaner diluted. I also hung the body of the injectors into the sonic cleaner deep enough to not allow electronics near solution also hung any internals made of steel in baskets. ECU work....be very carefull when cleaning pins if green looking....I scrubed carefully my pins using sensor cleaner and a tooth brush and a cap discharged within the fluid and cooked my UCU....I was lucky and scored one cheap from wreckers. BUT they must be programed to work together with all computers in car with STAR machine. They say you must change all 3 computers if you do need to replace one such as the ECU but I think the STAR could teach in them seperately if needed....I changed all 3 of mine before knowing any different. Unless you find a cheap donor car or have crack addicts for junkyard owners like I do, you will cry having to buy any of these computers I bet! Even my junkies wanted serious coin until I explained who else will ever come asking for a 2005 smart car computer now a days and got all 3 for $250.....lol Once clean your injectors will easily show you 5 spray nozzle flows.....just using a compressor and loading up a hose with carb cleaner and blasting that through the injector. But you won't know for sure anything unless you do that bleed back test except your nozzles are clean.
  21. Yes the STAR isn't $50 by any means but the end result will pay for it'self after maybe 3 visits to the dealer's shop for simple repairs was how i warrented the cost of it. Plus I get a new laptop...lol. Personal preferance is all.....and as you said, will you keep the car longer than a year or two? If you purchased a good solid running car then there is a good chance you may not require the use of it, but if you went the cheap car lets make it better route then I'll say you will need it sooner than you may think.
  22. Think about seting up a star system, if you already have a workable PC or laptop etc the multiplexer is $250ish off amazon or ebay and the program is obtainable from people around. It far out shines the off the shelf code readers....just a thought.