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Everything posted by Willys

  1. Took her for a spin and washed her ready for more salt and snow tonight....augh!
  2. When driving around here in the summer with the windows down I hear these cars that stop and start constantly at traffic lights etc...I can't help but think how fast the starting systems will fail due to constant stopping and starting all day. Just another crazy anti-pollution idea some climate control freak has dreamed up for the cause. No wonder today's starters are so expensive to replace. They have found a market, we need them so the costs we must bear can climb. I'll happily stick with the old keep her running until I get to where it is I need to go theory....lol.
  3. I doubt they would rattle or be unsafe, BUT, the amount of side wall flex, just driving down this driveway will shake your fillings out of your teeth! So, think of the road surfaces you normally drive on...imho.
  4. That makes two of us, I'm also semi hopeless when it comes to computers...lol At the moment I'm ok with a gutted stock muffler as it's a bit louder but almost not noticable, but it does smell when idling. That part I can live with but don't like it. You need a cat to stop it so I'll live with it...lol. I'd be interested if you get better breathing with your muffler system over the stock can gutted of it's cat.
  5. OK as i have said in the past I hate this stock muffler for it's bottom seam where it rusts out early. So have been asking around a bit to different auto suppliers etc I go to, and one has sugested why don't i search into Kabota exhausts? I never thought about those...? Industrial for sure maybe last longer..? But how much and how loud? Same sized engines, roughly 3 cylinder deisels.....easy to weld to also....thoughts...? There are many smaller auto exhaust cans to make work also I'm told, yes welding and fab will be necessary....but for a competant exhaust shop, not a problem I expect or I'll do it myself. That is find the close space where it needs to sit and make up the mounting tabs etc and then take it in to get pipes bent to fit etc.....thoughts...?
  6. Hope you have small hands!
  7. .

    LIMP mode....common issue for some.....where are you on the planet? Maybe a visit to someone with a STAR machine? You should start a thread in the forums area under the 450 diesel issues you'll get better responses. WIKI is for information so to speak and no chatting...I believe....but I could be wrong...?
  8. I'm going after this one.... SKF VKM 03302 or GATES OAP7080 https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/gates-7743638.html My cousin in England is purchasing it....time will tell.
  9. Enjoy..... .Mini truck, 4X4, Hi-lo transfer case, locker in diff....left hand drive......thanks...lol maybe even diesel...??? OH....not going as a business trip....damn! What else could you return with in the hold of the plane...lol.
  10. There is a thread on the free wheeling clutch hub in the section for modifying etc the 450 CDI I am also interested in this for mine. They are hard to locate here and postage from the mother land is STEEP...! But I may be going over this summer....maybe..just maybe I can bring one or two back...? I do not know yet? IF I could find them cheap there and the postage is reasonable i would get one sooner. Go check out that thread as you will get part numbers etc....I have spent a while searching without much luck. Also yes heat releases red loctite but beware of cooking the casting as it may drip into your boot if too much heat is applied!
  11. Tolsen.....what was the last verdict on this free wheeling clutch pulley....lol. I am having a hard time locating it over here in the colony.....lol. I am venturing over again, this summer for a month perhaps....so could sneak one back in my hand luggage if it is cheaper there...? Or should I say easier to locate. Thanks for the knowledge as usual.....
  12. Didn't your glow plugs come with a small information sheet with them..? I think it says on that or their box?
  13. I agree with this even though I have zero experience with this issue personally.....on this vehicle. IF your rod punched through it wouldn't move the clutch fork anywhere making it impossible to push the clutch to be able to change gear at all. IF it is partially punched through and it can move it lets say half way where it needs to go it would constantly throw up codes and make shifting almost impossible, no? IF as some say an acorn shaped attachment added to the end of the actuator rod will work then that would be my choice to try next. They would be easy to turn out on any lathe....especially if you chose to make them out of brass for future wear restrictions on the fork side and use the new acorn attachment as the sacrificial lamb from now on. You can get brass enfused with oil to help with lube of some sort. Depending on the amount of space in there maybe you could make them with lock nuts to help keep them on shaft or maybe even thread shaft and thread acorn also....that giving you some adjustment for the future.? I haven't looked at the fork yet personally to see how easy it is to weld up the punched hold.....but if I can get my welder to it, I can weld it. Steel only.....I have a workable mig, a Tig would be even better.
  14. It can do so much if you can find out where all the sections are....I have spent countless hours searching my way through to find out all the different things it can do....The hard part is remembering how you got to where you are....lol. Yes it can figure out the wear but it also needs to get it's position correct as a base point....and if your actuator isn't adjusting correctly it can't find that starting point...I don't think? I could be wrong. You can find out compression rates, the balance of the engine, fuel pressures...Much more....I'm not the best guy to tell you exactly what it can do......so really shouldn't be commenting...but if you have the STAR to use for a time have at it....keep searching within the program. Like I said, i have literally spend days searching within it.
  15. Look at the threads, nicely rounded and abused...lol. I left one of mine in in fear of snapping it...as you said hate doing 2/3's of the job. It will be dealt with when i back at it, not beating me next time!
  16. IMHO...you must isolate whatever code reader you are using if questionable from the web....I use VMware.....which simply sets up a second computer within the original PC which stops it from being allowed to get to the web. So far so good.
  17. What keys are you trying to generate, actual recoding of ign keys? Or getting the radio codes? I can recode ign keys using my Star and they work perfectly....so far on my vehicle. I did try and get the radio code using the chinese gizmo and it gave me the initial code to then send to someone with the next step to get the actual code to unlock the radio. I couldn't get the second stage to work or loading that program and getting it to work, so i gave up. If you are a supporter of Evilution and ask nicely to the owner of the site he will do the second stage for you. That is how I got the final code.....Also Tolsen 's second attempt gave me the same number using his program......which was great also. I now think it better to simply replace radio with a modern version with more up to date options such as blue tooth and USB and AUX plug ins. But the STAR does ign keys easily.....
  18. You are correct, but any added security of zero leakage I'll take. Plus the whole unit is a strong item over a simple heli coil. from what I can see. I write my own scrips...lol
  19. Checking now...augh.....damn you...lol US-PRO......thank fully...lol
  20. That kit is similar to the one I have already purchased from Jolly Ol' England...lol... Came a week or so ago. Just waiting for the spring weather to show it's ugly face......before opening garage door.
  21. I agree these are solid not simple heli springs so zero chance of leaking once installed. The question is, can they be installed without dismantling the engine? But I'm leaning towards a complete rebuild any way....while I can find the parts to do the job. Seems they are getting like chicken lips...lol
  22. Be careful not to over tighten them when you finally get them out and cleaned up and putting them back in. I think I over tightened one of mine in the beater and that might be what happened to it. I'm just speculating as i haven't even looked at it yet, but it's the only sensible reason or answer for what I saw in the dark that night. I think I blew one out, it's laying up against the block and the puffing I was getting in my face was out of the glow plug hole. They were a serious pain to get out from what I remember. Took a long time in fear of snapping them. I also think because of that the threads weren't in the best of shape even after cleaning them out as recommended so when i reinstalled the new plugs I may have slightly stripped one out? Just hope you don't repeat my mistakes. I'm a firm believer in saying what you messed up so others do not do the same. No secrets.... I have since bought the repair tool and kit to replace the threads with a solid heli coil type thing. So I will be doing that once i get back into the car repairs. Far too cold here now to think about it, even with a heated shop. I have other things to get done before the beater and paint doesn't dry well in subzero temps.
  23. I am a relatively new owner of a smart car..I asked the same questions and got the same answers you are getting. I also have owned from new a Toyota Echo hatchback with 5 speed manual.....I was told to either keep the toyota on the road or buy another simply as it's a far more useful vehicle and I will admit since buying my smart, probably more reliable. It gets 50 MPGs on a good day and will go like stink IF you ask it to and get 40 MPGs while doing it. It has 560,000 kms on the clock and the original clutch finally wore out. I drew the line at this repair and cost etc ....and searched for a new vehicle. I wanted a toy as well as a daily driver. I'm very happy with my smart car,it's a blast to drive, seriously economical, and just an all around fun car. But as said before, they are getting older now. You need to realize this as you will find slight rusting on good ones and some say bad on the worst non cared for vehicles. And some possibly serious electrical issues requiring some TLC.....same for any older vehicle really. You can't expect a near new condition vehicle when choosing one of this vintage naturally. BUT, the fun factor of owning one can certainly out weigh the effort needed to keep it in tip top condition. IMHO they are a fun car that you will need to learn plenty about. IF you can except this buy one and enjoy...I like mine so much I bought a second...lol.
  24. For the amount of fuel I'd be draining it and starting with new fuel and a new filter, paying attention to any hose clamps and kinking of hoses...or even damaged internal walls of said hoses....also watching those "O"rings for the filter and water separator.....I know been said many times but hey...better than sitting on side of road .....? Also if you have idiot neighbor place dash cam facing backwards while parked to see if he is trying to open gas cap while you aren't there. They do work after a jolt to the vehicle.....gotta love a video recording...lol. I stuck a smallish sign on my back window for tail gaters, smile you are being video recorded.....it actually stopped most of them after they read the silly sign...maybe it'll work for someone touching your car..? Apartment buildings are bad for car issues...been there suffered that. I used to lose a stereo and speakers almost yearly. back in the day!