Lenroc

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About Lenroc

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    Lymington, UK
  1. Hi, Thank you for your responses, just to confirm, they are compatible I just fitted the one from scrapyard and it is working fine just in case someone else will have the same problem, if the models are the ones I had, they seem to be 100% compatible
  2. Hi, I know that there can be problems if wrong alternator is fitted; my alternator failed (is not charging properly) so I took it down to check the brushes (they seem fine) so that was my attempt to fix the existing alternator. I went to scrap ward and found a an alternator on a car, I took if down and I am ready to fit it on my car. The problem is that on my car at the PHIN connector there are 2 black wires, while on the one from scrapyard there was only one white small wire. I am wondering if anyone has the expertise to confirm whatever or not the 2 alternators are compatible (i.e. fitting the scrapyard alternator won't damage my car). I will attach pictures of 1. my existing alternator code 2. scrap yard alternator code 3. back of my alternator (the plastic only as it has been taken of my alternator when I checked the brushes) 4. the back (connectors) of the scrapyard alternator (connectors are cut off so they are visible) Any help will be appreciated, as I don't want to waste time fitting an incompatible alternator at the best or damage my ECU at the worse Please note that the code on the alternators are similar, the amps are the same, and the back plate is identical, but as I said my car has to black wires going to the PHiN while the scrapyard one has only a thin white wire (as per picture) Please also note that on my alternator (as it is the case on the scrapyard alternator) there are 3 pins on the back but the middle one is not used Please see the label info extracted from the attached pictures my existing faulty alternator Denso 63321658 A115I 75A 003250V009 05901/2 DC A1601540301 14V the scrapyeard alternator magnet marely 28410/2 MAN1009 063341658101 A115I 14V 75A Please note that even-though the scrapyard is a different make (on the plastic where the label is located on the side it is still printed Denso) Thank you
  3. If you like puzzle, and if you know the electrical diagram of early smarts, please use your intuition to try solving this problem. What I mean by early smarts is the ones with ZEE module (2002). For SAM controlled smarts is a very different problem History of the problem I bought a smart car with the ZEE burned, not sure what caused that at the time. I thought that an accidental jump start, accidental water spillage, etc I replaced the ECU/ZEE/ etc, the car started fine, worked fine, expect for the clock (the one that keeps time on top of the dash) and the locking/unlocking of the doors (including the rear glass boot door) Strangely enough, they are all fed by Fuse 16, a 15AMP fuse. The fuse was fine, no damage etc. On the same fuse it was the Horn, and also the interior lights (Horn and interior lights worked fine anyway) I changed the door actuators(all 3 of them) and the clock and it seem that problem solved. The car worked fine for another few months, locking unlocking, horn worked fine, etc All of the sudden, while driving in the rain the car started to sound the horn continuously, my wife was driving at the time. for an hour the horn sounded, she stopped the engine, she took the key out, the car was horning (7am on a residential road). AA came, disconnected the battery and recovered the car home arrived home in the evening: short diagnostic, connect the battery horn on . disconnect the battery horn off. Then unplugged fuse 16, connected battery, the car drives fine , no problems, except for locking and unlocking and obvious the horn Took steering wheel off and the black ribbon wires completely burned and melted (only the horn ones, the other 2, air-bag were still fine). At that time, I did not properly understand the Horn circuit (not that now I understand it). I thought, unlucky, the steering wheel button accidentally pressed by wife, horn engaged, high current passing for a while, heath produced, wires melted, horn remained engaged. Now I know how wrong my diagnostic was. I now know that horn wires on the steering wheel go to relay D, and that the horn is on ignition So, why on earth the horn sounded with ignition off? so, repair, changed the squib, put the fuse back on, and car working fine; lock/ unlock/ horn operating fine until another rainy day(wife driving) wipers stooped working, air-bag light on wipers fuse was burned(replaced right away and wipers fine after) squib completely burned, horn not working it could be a coincidence, but I believe it is something more than just coincidence, I believe that somewhere is a wiring fault that makes the squib hot and melts the wires inside, but I am not electrician, I am a regular DIYer (form a technical background - computer science) that likes solving puzzles, I need more pieces if I will ever be able to solve this puzzle I have the evolution horn wiring diagram, but that only covers the horn and only for SAM cars (completely different ) Now the car is without a squib on the back of the steering wheel and works fine expert horn and drivers airbag not sure if the fault is on the horn circuit it might be on one of hte doors, etc it is now clearer to me that the previous ZEE might have been burned by the same fault; it is also unlikely that all 3 doors actuators to be dead on natural so far I know ZEE fuse 16 feeds into interior lights, door actuators, horn relay, clock -- all of them burned either while the car was mine or right before that fuse 16 never burned 2ice the steering wheel squib was melted and and short circuited ( while driving in the rain- might be coincidence) I am tempted to: remove the Relay D(horn), rewire the horn, squib right to another relay, relay right into the horn(new horn, new relay, new wires) but the horn circuit migt not even be the problem To try figure what is going on I made this simple hand drawn note, it might be completely wrong, I assumed that steering wheel buttons switches the earth and the relay is switching the 12V PS: I do not want to find the problem, it will he hard to find where the wires are damaged; All I want is to understand where they can be damaged so that they will be able to burn the actuators, melt the squib, etc; but fuse is intact
  4. Hi I wonder of anyone can help me with a problem on a 2002 smart 0.6 (ZEE model) the car starts and drives fine, but as soon as you stop the engine the hazard lights are starting to flash continuously until you disconnect the battery to start it again, you have to connect again the battery(no hazard lights now) and unlock the car (at that time the flashing hazard lights start and they continue until you turn the ignition and start the engine) once started there are no Error codes and the car works as normal (all the electric work, apart from unlocking the boot -- it only makes a rely sound from ZEE module when you press to open the boot) not sure what is wrong and not even sure where to start to look
  5. Hi There I finally managed to solve the problem the problem was that I fitted the actuator myself and it needed programming, today I went to a specialist to re-code a new key and I asked them to look at the actuator, they re-tune the actuator and now it is working fine I just thought I update, just in case someone else will have my problem, thank you very much
  6. Hello smardriver thanks for your response I will certainly look inside the SAM unit for any sign of water damage I already tested the possession 2 possibility by doing this - switch ignition to 1, clutch actuator activated, N displayed, ready for start in position 2- go back to 0- switch ignition back to 1, clutch actuator ticking and N flashing, not ready to start in position 2 in this I never go to position 2, just 1 and back again to 0 and it is still enough to prevent the clutch actuator to engage againso it is not even the start of the car, it is purely going into 1 that causes the issue, it is like ECU is only allowing one start and no more than 1 it has to be something on position 1, and more frustrating is that whatever it is it is only preventing the clutch actuator to work for the first time once I start the car, (after disconnecting the battery) I can run the car for hundreds of miles with smooth gear changes, with tens of actuator movements etc As you pointed out I will check the sam for water damage, and keep driving the car disconnecting the battery after each use (I might get a switch to do that for easily)
  7. Hi I have this strange problem. with the transmission.(P0702 is displayed on my OBD) The car won't start; once I put the key on 1 position the N is not displayed on the dash; It is Flashing N (1 second or so interval). In this time I looked at the clutch actuator and it makes a click sound and move (left right about 2-3 mm, very slight move and then clicks and back again). It will do that all day long if I lave the key on "1" position. As the car cannot get into N, the car wont start. I know from my other smart that when you put the key in the ignition and put it into "1" position the clutch actuator is extending and pushes the clutch fork As a novice I suspected that the clutch actuator is at fault, so I ordered a new one (second hand but told it is working). The exact same problem I then suspected that the clutch form might be stuck so I checked that the fork can be moved (I used a screwdriver to push and it seem to be free) I then suspected the wires that go to actuator, the gear motor, the gear sensor, etc. I pulled out the wiring loom and had a proper look at each wire. I could not find any wire that was damaged in any ways. To make the matter more complicated and more interesting I noticed that once you disconnect the battery and reconnect it. the car starts properly, runs, changes the gears as it should, the clutch actuator is working up and down as normal, the gears are changed smoothly and all it seem is resolved that until I stop the engine once the engine is stopped, and try to put back the ignition into "1" it start again, flashing N, etc etc but if I disconnect the battery again for a second, then starts again as there is no problem I can now use the car as long as I disconnect he battery after each use Any ideas will be appreciated as I am stuck and have no more logical answers or tests that I can carry out in order to solve for my problem