Regular Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

36 Excellent

About bmwmilos

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. The hoses and connectors showed no leaks,not even on the quick connectors below the car ( I do not know if the hoses are upgraded or not - I did not find what is different about upgraded hoses ). So I think after changing condenser AC will be ok ( condenser is "eaten" by road salt from the looks of it )
  2. The next day again no AC ... I was pissed off, I went there again, he recharged the AC again ( that's a total of 1.8 kg of R134a ) and gave me money back nad told me that I should dosmount the entire car and take it to some other AC tech for diagnosing... It was 38 degrees C outside so I waited for 8 PM ( a bit cooler then ) and then dismounted the front end in 15 minutes. I took my "special" UV lamp ( 2$ ebay ) and illuminated the condenser and it shined bright green on both sides. I also removed the air filter and checked the evaporator and there were no signs of leaking. I then eemounted the front end and then I realised that the "green" condenser is easily seen through opening in the front bumper. So now I am waiting for new condenser to arrive, I will install it and then go to recharge the system somewhere else. This I wrote only so you all can understand why I went to do the engine overhaul myself because most of the workshops here are at the same level of expertise..
  3. I also went to recharge the AC system. After arguing with the guy at the workshop about gas quantity ( 620g vs 450g he claimed ) he evacuated the system,vacuum tested and charged it. I went away and the next day again no AC. I went there again to see what is wrong and he wanted me to leave the car there for a couple of days for them to verify where the leak is. We went away for vacation one week so I left the Smart there. I went to pick up the car on Monday, started it and the AC worked,but very weak. It was a very hot day so I thought ok. The guy told me that they checked everywhere for leaks and could not find any. He showed me the special UV lamp, a probe for inserting in air grilles to detect R134a gas leaking from evaporator, and told me that he recharged the system again and the Ac worked for 2 days in front of the workshop.....
  4. I also went to see my friend and tried two other smart cdis and they alsp have the same sound, I guess the sound is normal, it's just weird to me...having no experience with Smart. I started to notice some weird sound from timong chain case. It is noticeable on idle and it sounds like a bad tensioner,like chain is slapping around occasionally. I installed the entire timing chain kit ( sprockets,guides,tensioner ) from FAI/LUCAS and I cannot see anything wrong looking down oil filler cap hole. I guess I will have to drop the engine again and change the tensioner. I have read that there were some similar experiences and that remounting old tensioner solved the problem.
  5. Oh and I could have taken better photos,but most of the photos were taken with my hands half dirty and I didn't hold the cell properly so some are a little bit out of focus.
  6. I am more than willing to assist anyone when doing similar work or with any other problem. Most of the tutorials I saw for engine removal say to drop the entire subframe. I found it easier to do removing only engine and gearbox using hydraulic jack and the car remains mobile ( you can push it around ).
  7. I also removed rear side windows and changed the seals as they were leaking in rain. Overall the car power has increased significantly,specially in low revs. The engine is silent, the only thing is that when going in low rpms there is a sound like the engine is "knocking", similar to petrol engines with bad petrol or ignition adjusted early ( autocombustion,detonation ). I do not know if this is normal in these engines.After passing 2000rpm that sound vanishes and the engine is running very silent.
  8. I took the injectors to pressure testing and one of them had excessive overflow so I had them replace that element. Other two injectors were ok. This alone was around 130€. I installed the injectors ( did not find the correct tightening torque so I also tightened them by feel ),assembled rear hatch,exhaust,cross-member,poured in new oil ( Mobil 1 5W-50 ),poured new oil in gearbox ( Mobil ATF 220 ).I was surprised that in engine goes more than 3 litres of oil ( I think it was 3,6 lt ). I thought it was less than 3lt. I poured water inside cooling system for initial testing. If everything goes ok I will flush the system and fill with antifreeze. Oh, the three wires that go from engine harness to floor tray and then somewhere versus front of the car I didn't want to remove the undertrays, so I cut them in front of the engine when dismounting and now I installed 3-way waterproof connector so for the next time it's easier. I connected the battery, turned to ignition a couple of times to fill the rail with fuel and then tried to start. In a few seconds the engine was running at idle,smoothly, no smoke,no knocking,very nice.
  9. I transported the engine back to my father's garage and after assemblying engine and gearbox, installing new rear mounts ( front mount was already replaced and in excellent condition ) and other thingies this was the result.
  10. I also disassembled EGR body, cleaned it well, removed the deflector plate inside so it is a clear opening. I cut both flanges from EGR pipe. I produced a stainless steel washer to put below flange on exhaust manifold and used exhaust mounting paste and screwed it in. I also made a gasket without hole to close the exhaust gas inlet in EGR. And finally I turned the valve element inside 180 degrees so there is no way exhaust gasses can enter in intake anymore. I decided to do it like this,because the EGR solenoid stays in place and no errors should be logged. If necessary I will do EGR delete from software. I am waiting for KWP2000Plus adapter to arrive so I can start playing around with software mods on engine. I already found some info on this forum and I will see how the engine reacts. I have found there were files for download but now I do not remember where :-(
  11. The next day I changed input shaft seal,both output shaft seals and clutch bearing and fork on gearbox. The gearbox was oily below seals,and the clutch actuator almost went through the old fork. The clutch itself was in good condition. I lubricated the actuator inside with white lithium grease spray abbundantly. I reworked the actuator rod a little bit making it more round and smooth. I applied Shell Gadus high performance grease on fork and actuator rod,and also a small amount on clutch bearing face and slider.
  12. Here are some more photos at the end of the day :
  13. Afterwards I installed the back plate for clutch. I found this to be very hard to do. First of all,blocking the crankshaft is not easy beacuse the engine block is aluminum and there is very little space for inserting wood piece to block it. You have to be careful where the force is going to apply to engine block. I managed to make two pieces of hard wood to insert in block between cranskaft counterweight and block. This way the force is distributed not only on bottom housing ( which has thin aluminum strips close to counterweights ),but also on the upper part of the engine block. The next problem was to hold the engine while tightening the bolts,but one of the colleagues from work was there to assist. I used a 3/4" fixed bar with reduction to 1/2" socket wrench 17mm. I used the same setup to tighten the crankshaft sprocket only with E18 socket wrench. I finished the day installing other bits to block and head.
  14. I then installed exhaust manifold with new turbine cartridge. I chose to install the intake housing afterwards on the engine, but it was a little bit more difficult due to the fact that you have to press the Oring for the intake housing with one hand and install the big circlip with the other so it slides into place in intake housing. The circlip is strong and also conically made so it keeps the tension on the intake housing. But after a couple of tries I managed to do it!
  15. After installing the head I installed new hydraulic lifters, new rocker arms and camshaft. I did not find the torque value for camshaft bearing caps so I phoned my friend who has all the data and if I remember correctly the torque is 12Nm. Also the three camshaft sprocket bolts are 8Nm torque. My friend advised me to use Loctite 243 blue medium thread locker on sprocket bolts and to tighten them "by feel" which I did. Oh,one thing,before installing cylinder head I installed the chain ,tensioner and timing chain cover since the head bolts to chain cover. The tensioner has a pin in it which I extracted only after installing head,camshaft,sprocket and aligned the chain with guides. The chain guides have two pins inside the cylinder head that hold them. I extracted them using long M6 bolt,nut,large washer and a piece of pipe to use as a spacer. To install them I coated lightly with Loctite hydraulic sealant,screwed in a short M6 bolt and using a hammer I pressed them inside the head,after aligning the guides with the hole. To time the engine you have to mount the pulley on crankshaft, it has a notch to indicate correct position when aligned with a mark on timing chain cover. At this point the camshaft sprockets two lines should be aligned with cylinder head top surface.