bmwmilos

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About bmwmilos

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    Rijeka,Croatia
  1. High pressure common rail pump. Aircon compressor I did not even touch. I removed two screws holding it to the engine and tied it with cable ties when I removed the engine. I did dismount and reseal the CP1 pump some time ago ( seals were torn by high pressure) but I also don't remember seeing M8 set screw there.
  2. I speak german also,so if you need to translate anything I can help you too. I finished installing my engine back and just came from a 30 mile test drive. Now the engine is quiet as it should be. I managed to track a source of occasional chain slapping sound that got worse in the last 100miles. I did not notice it before,and i opened the timing cover twice to inspect. The dowel pin that holds the oil chain tensioner was not perpendicular to the chain just by a bit. But it was enough to slowly push the chain outwards and wanting to "climb" over the oil pump sprocket sideways. Not to mention that the tension was higher on inside element of the chain than on the outside. By using a piece of pipe to bend the pin, and a straight edge and caliper I realigned the tensioner in both directions until I managed to rotate the engine and the oil chain not tending to go neither in nor out on oil pump sprocket. I can't believe that I didn't check that before. As for the locking screw, I noticed that on the CP pump there are screws of that type, but they are M6 thread. I checked around my engine this morning and I did not find that type of screw anywhere.
  3. Oh,and do you have the link for shop manual?
  4. The alternator does not have this screw,the starter also. I just dismantled oil cooler and there is no grub screw there. I can't remember if there is something on vacuum pump,water pump or CP pump,but I honestly don't remember seeing it anywhere. Oh,and did you dismount the oil pressure regulating valve? The TX plug on oil filter housing? The piston on mine was slightly worn by aluminum housing ( ??? ), so I cleaned the burrs,polished it shiny and turned the piston 180 degrees so it works on the sides that are not worn.
  5. Hi Willys I rebuilt my engine as you know and I don't remember seeing that type of locking screw anywhere on the engine. With all this corona time I pulled out my engine again, disassembled the gearbox,changed bearings and mount everything back, plus solving a problem with play in inner cv joints causing a leak on seals. I don't remember seeing that screw even on gearbox.
  6. Oh and you need a long socket for head bolts. And I do not remember precisely,but I think it was T55, not T60, but maybe I am wrong.
  7. By thermostat mod do you mean the restrictor in bypass line?
  8. Hi Willy! I'm glad you are also freshening up the engine. I also started with valve cover and after finding this and that I ended up with bare block. In the meantime I also rebuilt the CP1 high pressure pump as it was leaking more and more. The seals were gone. The pump rebuild is fairly simple,only thing to watch is absolute cleanliness. I also scraped of the rust from the pump parts when disassembled, passed the pump heads and non return valve seats with 3000 grit sandpaper on straight block and with polish afterwards. I did use a lot of brake cleaner. And that did solve the famous knocking sound during acceleration. For the oil chain change also the tensioner and spring, I found that the old tensioner flexes to some extent more than the new one and the spring also showed some signs of wear. If you need any help I'm here.
  9. Thank you all for the nice words! I do not have a lot of free time, I am always working on some projects so I do not spend time reading the forum a lot, however as I already wrote if someone needs any assistance with engine rebuild or something else feel free to contact me through PM or email. Sorry for some photos, I realised later that some of them are bit blurry, but at the time I took them my hands were dirty and I didn't want to mess up the phone too much with oil and grease. For the AC at the end I only changed the condenser and the AC afterwards is running like new. I did other things, handbrake cables,rear quarter window seals,... I am still having problem of water ingress on driver side ( LH ). On the right side I only closed the hole for the screw on mirror holder and the leak is gone. However on LH side I did the same but there is still water coming in rainy weather, I have to investigate further. I am also having problem with gearbox oil leak and excessive play of inner CV joint in gearbox, but I opened new topic for that, hoping to get some replies. I think I am going to drop the engine again and dismount and disassemble the gearbox so that I can determine the cause and change the bearings when it's already opened.
  10. I have to add that I did not notice any play in differential bearings when I hold both CV joints pressed vs inside and try to move them.I have marked the spots in red which I think may be the problem ( worn diff housing or retaining ring ). Also there are no noises from the gearbox, it is running very smooth and gear change is very good.
  11. Greetings to all! After having done the complete engine overhaul and some other thingies my wife's Smart has been running ok ( apart from two noises that I still have to find the cause ). However a couple of days ago when I went to change the oil and install a modified filter housing I noticed a red fluid on the differential housing. It was ATF fluid from gearbox. I then investigated the cause because when doing overhaul I also changed both output shaft seals as well as input shaft seal. When I tried to move the inner CV joint on LH side ( driver side in Europe ) i found that the joint has a lot of play inside the gearbox/differential up to a point that I can create an opening in the seal of about 1mm or maybe more. Another thing I have noticed is that when I did this there was quite a pressure built up inside the gearbox and it escaped out together with some oil when I moved the CV joint. The CV joint on RH side does not have that play. I tried to press the CV joint versus interior of differential and it seems to me that then there is less play. Did someone have this kind of problem and if yes how can it be resolved ? I was thinking that maybe inside the cv joint there should be a spring creating a tension versus the differential and that the spring could be cracked but I cannot find a picture of the inner joint disassembled. Maybe the retaining ring on the cv joint shaft is worn ?? But I cannot extract the cv joint out of the gearbox without using a pry bar. I will drain the oil and remove the axle to verify in the next couple of days, I just wanted to see if someone can point out the things that can be consumed/worn to look out for if anyone had a similar problem. I did come across one post on this forum ( in another topic ) where someone posted the same question but no one replied to that.
  12. The hoses and connectors showed no leaks,not even on the quick connectors below the car ( I do not know if the hoses are upgraded or not - I did not find what is different about upgraded hoses ). So I think after changing condenser AC will be ok ( condenser is "eaten" by road salt from the looks of it )
  13. The next day again no AC ... I was pissed off, I went there again, he recharged the AC again ( that's a total of 1.8 kg of R134a ) and gave me money back nad told me that I should dosmount the entire car and take it to some other AC tech for diagnosing... It was 38 degrees C outside so I waited for 8 PM ( a bit cooler then ) and then dismounted the front end in 15 minutes. I took my "special" UV lamp ( 2$ ebay ) and illuminated the condenser and it shined bright green on both sides. I also removed the air filter and checked the evaporator and there were no signs of leaking. I then eemounted the front end and then I realised that the "green" condenser is easily seen through opening in the front bumper. So now I am waiting for new condenser to arrive, I will install it and then go to recharge the system somewhere else. This I wrote only so you all can understand why I went to do the engine overhaul myself because most of the workshops here are at the same level of expertise..
  14. I also went to recharge the AC system. After arguing with the guy at the workshop about gas quantity ( 620g vs 450g he claimed ) he evacuated the system,vacuum tested and charged it. I went away and the next day again no AC. I went there again to see what is wrong and he wanted me to leave the car there for a couple of days for them to verify where the leak is. We went away for vacation one week so I left the Smart there. I went to pick up the car on Monday, started it and the AC worked,but very weak. It was a very hot day so I thought ok. The guy told me that they checked everywhere for leaks and could not find any. He showed me the special UV lamp, a probe for inserting in air grilles to detect R134a gas leaking from evaporator, and told me that he recharged the system again and the Ac worked for 2 days in front of the workshop.....
  15. I also went to see my friend and tried two other smart cdis and they alsp have the same sound, I guess the sound is normal, it's just weird to me...having no experience with Smart. I started to notice some weird sound from timong chain case. It is noticeable on idle and it sounds like a bad tensioner,like chain is slapping around occasionally. I installed the entire timing chain kit ( sprockets,guides,tensioner ) from FAI/LUCAS and I cannot see anything wrong looking down oil filler cap hole. I guess I will have to drop the engine again and change the tensioner. I have read that there were some similar experiences and that remounting old tensioner solved the problem.